Wildgoose

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Posts posted by Wildgoose


  1. 42 minutes ago, darcshadow said:

    I'm not as familiar with VM as I'd like? Will that work if the design is all one shape even though it looks like it's multiple parts?

    You may need to use the Break Apart command in order to turn the design into multiple objects that can be selected individually.

    Potentially yes if the design is all one object. If it is a grouped object then in the arrange tab you can ungroup or ungroup all or if it is all one object then in the curves tab you can break it apart. I am much more handy in adobe illustrator and have to go hunting to find the way through with VM. 


  2. On 5/27/2022 at 8:37 AM, headgreen said:

    I just took the plunge and ordered my first embroidery machine - a Brother PE-770.

    I know very little about machine embroidery other than you need special thread and stabilizer; so off I went "a googling".

    Well, now I'm so overwhelmed!! Just the needle, type of thread, type of bobbin thread, hoops, stabilizer, and thread alone has my brain like noodles.

    I'm not sure I'll ever understand what to use with what or why.

    They make it sound like you'll totally ruin everything you do (and your machine) if you don't use the right stuff with the right stuff.

    Does anyone have a recommendation for a good book and/or a simple website of basic info and charts on the topics?

    I was even going to start looking at digitizing software, etc., but I'm wondering if my brain is just too old for this stuff. I had no idea it was so complicated. It didn't look this hard when Sewing with Nancy did it!

    I added an embroidery machine to my operation several years ago. It is a bird of a different color and takes some practice and learning to get going. Plan to make a lot of mistakes as you learn. If you have been around any kind of sewing machines previously it will help since a lot of the overall concept is the same. 

    Your machine will have specific needles with either a round base if it's a full on commercial machine or will have a flat side if it is more home/hobby built. If it is a round base you have to set the angle of the hole and there are a couple ways to do that. One is to drag a thread through and hold both sides so that the thread is angled according to your machines design. I use a small magnet and it will sit nicely on the flat side of the front of the needle and you can see where the hole is oriented from that. I also use a cheap set of doctors pliers that have the locking ratchet grabbers in the middle that clamp and hold it tight on the needle as they probably are designed to do on blood vessels or sutures. The standard size most people use is usually a 75 and if you are sewing tougher things like hats or canvas sometimes jump up to 80. I have occasionally ran 70 on really light material. Most people run 40wt thread but you can also run 60wt but again you are going to be messing with your tensions. I run poly/neon thread but some run rayon. You can read up on the pro and con of each. I tend to the poly because it is known to resist sun fading better and most of my work is for clothes that will be outdoors or washed a lot. I have not tried rayon but I have heard that it runs at different tension so bouncing back and forth will lead to problems. My machine runs L bobbins and I buy pre-wound bobbins. I have been told that the consistency of the rewound helps with overall machine tension staying consistent. 

    As to embroidery files, I have some software but I almost always hire out the digitizing to pro's. It is far more complicated than I would have thought.  I am a wiz on graphic arts and through it would be simple. Not even remotely. Plan to spend $35 a logo for a decent job. There are some cheaper people that do them for $10 or thereabout but some are crap so you get what you pay for and a crap file will not run well and being new you will be trying to decide if it's the file or your machine messing up. I recommend using the Wicked Stitch of the East. There are plenty of others but they are good and actually sew them out once they build it to be sure it runs good. They take a few days to get back to you so you have to plan ahead. 

    You will find more questions the more you get into it. Hoops and hooping aids are all important too. Thread stabilizers are varied and there are topping materials for fuzzy stuff. Good luck and I have felt your pain. I would consider finding a commercial shop in your area and go ask if you can hang out. They may consider you a threat (probably not if you just have a single head machine) and not let you but you will learn more in a day at a pro shop than months of trial and error. (same goes for vinyl cutting!)


  3. 2 hours ago, AFKnut said:

    S&D, the texture matters because when I am designing something a solid green does not look anything like carbon, so after I cut it thinking it will look good it looks like shit. Many times I have just reversed colors or layouts, but sure would be nice to see what it will look like before wasting my vinyl

    haumana, ya I wasn't sure how it would look, but even if it just repeated the swatch I uploaded that would suffice. Its prob not possible, but something they should add!

    I don't know my way around VM very well but possibly you could do a Clip of the sample. They probably call it something different maybe trap. I'm an Adobe person so I'm only fluent in AI terms. The trick will be getting the carbon texture to be size accurate. 

    Screen Shot 2022-05-25 at 9.45.29 PM.png

    • Like 1

  4. I would do similar to darcshadow and reintroduce the original dog shape (just the outline).  Maybe offset the line a pen width outside the original edge so you don't kill the negative space you have so laboriously created.  Then you can use the same line (or a copy paste of it) to crop out all the outer lines. 


  5. I suggest contacting tech support with Oracal/Orafol. If you can get a real person to talk to they will give you some good tips and probably give you a difinitive answer. I called them about their HT55 Oratape tranfer paper for matt finish indoor vinyl and they were very helpful and gave me all sorts of interesting data that helped me better understand how that particular product perfomed. This is just a users forum and MAYBE some here have done some applications but you are getting someones opinion and their take vs a manufacturer who knows for sure whether your going to have complications or not. With cermaic coatings having entered the norm (we bought a new Hyundia and that was an option from the dealer) I guarantee they have gotten out ahead of this already. 

    • Like 1

  6. On 1/26/2022 at 11:29 AM, mhristau said:

    What am I doing in Illustrator that causes these diagonal lines (travel instructions) to become cut lines in Cricut Design Space?

    travel lines that cut.png

    The screen shot is NOT adobe Illustrator. Whatever you are seeing there is being inserted by the Cricut interface. I would assume it is somehow sending some interface instructions meant for your cutter that are transposing as cut line? Just a guess...  

    I would suggest trying a newer or older version of your saved AI file or even change the file type from AI to SVG or EPS or whatever the Cricut program likes. My cutter interface prefers Adobe Illustrator version 8 which is a much simplified legacy version. There are a LOT of extra "doodads" especially in the CC version of AI that may be complicating your file.


  7. I was online ordering some HTV and needed to replenish my sign vinyl in black. I noticed that USCutter is carrying some of the RapidAir Technology variant and decided to give it a go. I don't have a job for this yet but black stuff comes along fairly often. I will return and do a product evaluation as soon as I get a job for this. 

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  8. I am not a SCALP user either but I suggest saving a working file to the side or whole other file when practicing so if it goes badly you can quickly revert to the original starting place. I would also consider saving your work in a non-proprietary file type. Seems like SCALP can export or save as SVG or EPS or similar. If you ever need to send one to another person or change design programs you will be glad you did. I had a beta version of SCALP way back but just didn't ever fall in love with it. I am an Adobe Illustrator design guy but was attempting to use SCALP as my cutter interface because I run on Mac computers for the most part. They (SCALP) have made progress in their capability since those early days and there are some on here who know the idiosyncrasies and tricks to get it to perform fine. I wouldn't want you to think I was disrespecting them. 

    • Like 1

  9. Paper tape is better IMO. I know you can't see through it to layer but overall application success is better. That's a large graphic so there will probably end up having some bubbles trying to get it stacked prior to application and then potentially along the edges where the two layers meet there often ends up a small line or rill of bubbles following that edge. If you have a simple application surface like a sign you can just install it in two layers but some things like race car bodies make that really hard to do. Good squeegee control is the key to reduce bubbles. Again, that is hard to employ when layering pre-install but still relevant. Search videos of actual pro's doing it, they make it look easy but there is a lot of skill you don't see if you aren't watching closely. You can use a pin to puncture and then deflate bubbles but if there are a lot it turns into a lot of work. If this is for a client it looks unprofessional. If it's for your own use the small bubbles will often disappear over time. My first big job was on my own suburban window and one side had a whole bunch of tiny bubbles because I sucked at the squeegee. A few weeks later they were gone from the heat and cool of day to night expansion and contraction. In my early days I had a few go a little rough. I made an excuse and told them if they didn't go away in 30 or so days I would replace the logo. They never needed to but I don't think I came across as a very experienced installer. I watched a lot and read articles about proper installation and things got better with time and practice. 


  10. 23 hours ago, dpeters said:

    We have a similar problem as well on a FC8600-130 (54") The right hand 30" of the material will cut fine, but there is a 12" section on the left hand side of the platen that does not cut deep enough when the blade is set propertly at the right side. It's like the cutting table is warped? (but a straightedge shows it is flat) We tried new cutting strips, blade holders and blades and it didn't help. Perf cuts are good all the way across, this issue is only a problem with contour cuts. Thoughts? Thanks!

    A common misconception with new cutter owners is that the blade cutting depth is somehow related to the exposed length of the blade sticking out of the blade holder. Follow Skeeter's directions on setting the proper amount of blade exposed and then you adjust the actual depth of cut into the vinyl by the down force applied to the holder.  The blade exposed should be only slightly farther than the thickness of the vinyl and not at any time far enough that it could cut all the way through the vinyl and carrier sheet. It's not much and most people have far far too much exposed. She suggests removing the blade holder altogether and drag it across a scrap piece by hand to verify that it can't quite cut all the way through. (Use a cutting mat beneath in case you do so you don't break a tip). I would also be sure your blade is fresh and not either broken or worn down. 

    For many people when they aren't able to cut deep enough they think they need to crank the blade out of the holder farther and this is exactly wrong. 


  11. Another tip I would give is use some parchment paper (or even better if you happen to have any Gerber 225 vinyl it has a clear carrier that is totally amazing for layering) I submitted a video a few years back using parchment paper:

     

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  12. I do a lot of shirt work. Rarely have I ever had anything like a stain guard on regular tee's but there is always that posibility. The 150C is a bit on the low side by most standards. Siser regular easyweed is about that but most HTV is higher by another 15 degrees. I would try more heat and do exactly what Dakota suggested, verify your press temp with IR thermo gun to be sure it's actually giving what it's supposed to. Even my $2500 Fusion was way off when I first got it. (It was actualy high and cause scorches but still off). The techs at hotronix had me buy an IR gun and check so that's the correct proceedure and important. 

    Pressure on the shirt is also important. I usually error a bit on the high side just to be safe. Typically if you overdo it you can see some adhesive ooze out at the edges of the vinyl (hard to see on anything except double layers thgouh). I have never had a failure from too much pressure either. The HTV techs get touchy with it, worrying that you can squish it all out the sides but like I said, never had a failure and I have occasionally over pressured significantly on accident. The only failures I have had were 1 roll of bad HTV (very very very unlikely but is possble) but that would only happen on one of the colors. And lack of either heat time or temp. Most often due to temp or something like a thick neck collar holding part of the platen up causing eneven pressure (baby onsies are the worst!) Heat most likely in your case. EDIT: Just saw that only the black is lifting. If you are putting the black on last and the others are getting more swell time it could do what you say. 

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  13. hotrodz0321 my biggest advice is have a good tax accountant help you stay out in front of the tax burden. You will probably see a significant jump in earned income through your new venture. Also if you have not been collecting sales tax (assuming your state does that like most) be prepared to toe the line.  I almost went down the first year I got some big contracts. With new equipment purchases you have a great write-off but after this tax season you may find yourself surprised how much money uncle sam takes if you don't have significant purchses to write off next year set some money aside. Most tax accountants can work you a forecast and you can and should pay quarterly estimates if it will be a lot of money. Not sure what Florida tax laws are like so gettting some sound advice from a good tax man would be smart. 

    I can't give you much help on the printer. I've talked myself out of them several times just due to the need to keep them busy. My business model has shifted away from sign vinyl and I do primarily aparrel work now so the need for a printer has dropped.

    • Like 2

  14. I tend to favor higher tack. There isn't many things more frustrating than trying to do an install and having some of the letters stay on the carrier. Or worse PART of a letter and having it get stretched or ruined.  If they are sizeable they will be hinging and installing in place somewhere. 751 transfers pretty good but I still sometimes fight an odd peice here and there. Maybe a greasy hand print on my part when weeding who knows. 

    That being said, if it's going on interiror walls all bets are off. LOL

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  15. Try some parchment paper, neatly trimmed. I'm slightly confused by the question since it's HTV rather than regular adhesive vinyl and am assuming you want to protect the sticky carrier around the edges so it doesn't collect dust bunnies. I do enough install that I just save two used backings and place them face to face to create a base and then stack on it. I do NOT sell to others for them to install so a bit different application.  In fact I save most of my larger carriers for later use as weeding sheets to collect small weeded pieces. You could ostensibly even ship it un-weeded and let the buyer do some of the time eating work. just a thought.