Wildgoose

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Posts posted by Wildgoose


  1. If you are prefeeding and it will run straight on the way out but not stay straight on the way back, all this while no blade touching then you have a tracking issue for sure. They usually don't recommend messing with the tension on the pinch rollers but possibly one got messed with or has become weak. We have seen new owners immediately start cranking on the pinch roller springs and get all sorts of wonky. 

    If you can get it running true in and out without a blade then adjust your blade appropriately and it starts dragging the vinyl out of track then you could have weak pinch rollers. (not common) Most of the time we see set up being wrong and too much force being applied which causes bunching and off-track. A remedy can be as simple as a high quality Clean Cut blade that uses less force to cut with. Cutting stencil though is probably rough and tough with lots of pressure. I make a couple passes if I cut stencil so I don't abuse my machine but mine has great tracking and will stay in the same grove. 


  2. There is something to be said about weed direction too though. I know that some designs weed easier one way than another. You definitely need to be sure you are all set with your blade depth then pressure and speed but once that's dialed in the same design will often weed easier one way as apposed to another. Typically if I am having a fight in a certain areas I spin the thing around and come at it from the opposite corner or at a slant and get it to come up better.

    You don't mention your machine. The budget models will not produce as clean a cut as the higher end models and are more often touchy about fine tune. 

    • Like 2

  3. 651 is known to be a little tricky especially with detailed work. I use 4076 R-Tape which is just a little extra tack over the 4075. 

    For detailed work if you are not doing large coverage areas consider trying out 751. It weeds nicer and will transfer like a dream. 951 even better yet. 


  4. 2 hours ago, Who just cut me? said:

    Hi all, 

        I typically make shirts and decals but a local little league team wants me to make them some small removable signs. The stick in the ground type for next years sign up and such. I am not sure on pricing. any basic rule that those of you that make these signs use for pricing. If I make them they would be blanks with vinyl put on them, any help is much appreciated. 

    You should have a local sign supply shop somewhere in your area. They will have several options for the plastic (usually called coroplast or similar. Some will be pre-cut but sometimes you have to buy a sheet and cut it down yourself with a table saw or carefully with a skill saw. The little wires will be sold separately. I don't do these often but when I did I just used cheap sign vinyl like the Greenstar or Oracal 651 on them. I'm not going to price out your job for you but I generally make a list of materials costs and then take a WAG on how long I'll be messing around with them and bill accordingly. Some of these kinds of things can be done much simpler by a big sign shop with a flatbed printer. I don't build many because I can't compete with the flatbed printed prices. There are videos out there showing people building the signs and how they have set up little jigs to hold the coroplast in place while they place the cut vinyl on them. Lots of options for those who are willing to think outside the box a little and get creative. 

     

    Judging by your avator you are somewhere near Seattle. They will have either a Denco Sales or Sun Supply. 

    • Like 1

  5. 2 hours ago, Who just cut me? said:

    Hi all, 

        I typically make shirts and decals but a local little league team wants me to make them some small removable signs. The stick in the ground type for next years sign up and such. I am not sure on pricing. any basic rule that those of you that make these signs use for pricing. If I make them they would be blanks with vinyl put on them, any help is much appreciated. 

    You should have a local sign supply shop somewhere in your area. They will have several options for the plastic (usually called coroplast or similar. Some will be pre-cut but sometimes you have to buy a sheet and cut it down yourself with a table saw or carefully with a skill saw. The little wires will be sold separately. I don't do these often but when I did I just used cheap sign vinyl like the Greenstar or Oracal 651 on them. I'm not going to price out your job for you but I generally make a list of materials costs and then take a WAG on how long I'll be messing around with them and bill accordingly. Some of these kinds of things can be done much simpler by a big sign shop with a flatbed printer. I don't build many because I can't compete with the flatbed printed prices. There are videos out there showing people building the signs and how they have set up little jigs to hold the coroplast in place while they place the cut vinyl on them. Lots of options for those who are willing to think outside the box a little and get creative. 


  6. There is a way to do it in VM Pro although it is not easily understood and I have only ever done it once or twice. You will need to have your image inserted then add the object or shape that you want it to be masked by on top. Select both the original picture (I think this can be either a vector image or a bitmap picture image) and the object you want to use to clip it and then select the welding tools toggle and a pop up window comes up that has KEEP as one of the options. Select KEEP and it will basically crop it all away except the part covered by your top object. If your top object had color fill you will have to select and drag it to the side but beneath it will have trimmed your picture. 

    This operation is pretty much how things work in most other programs but I couldn't find it listed in the help menu. I am more an Adobe Illustrator guy and it's much more clear within AI than in VM but IS Possible with some messing around. I have never tried to print from VM so you're on your own there. 


  7. Your cutter probably has a sensor for the pinch roller. Those that do will stop cutting when it gets too close. There will be a setting somewhere in there that lets you ignore this. If you do switch it off and don't pay attention then you can accidentally track off the vinyl and ruin your blade or worse. 

    If your cutter doesn't have that feature then check that the vinyl width that Sign Blazer thinks you have is correct. If you say there is only 12 inches when there is really 15 then it will think it's at the edge when it's not. The cutter has no way of knowing where the edge is (unless your GCC has the above mentioned sensor to find the outside rollers)

    USCutter doesn't sell the GCC so I doubt any of us have any practical knowledge about your actual machine. 

    • Like 2

  8. Sounds like hey are in different groups. Select each one individually and go to Object>ungroup. You might have to do it a couple times. You can see what's stacked where if you have the layers window open. 

    CS6 is basically the same as CS5 but with fancier interface look. In the Pathfinder window and it should be the second option over on the top row of two rows. It technically is in the (Shape Modes). But they do have to be in the same group or not grouped if they happen to be in separate groups it won't do it. Illustrator is a beech for technicalities but there are reasons behind them all. 

    Screen Shot 2019-10-24 at 7.01.07 AM.png


  9. If you are ordering some vinyl get a yard of 751 or even 951 and try it. That stuff is super smooth and might be easier to weed. I usually use high end cast vinyl when I do teeny tiny. 1/8" aren't much fun on any cutter let alone a budget model. 

    • Like 2

  10. 32 minutes ago, GraphxNMore said:

    One more question....  When sublimating coffee mugs, I need a rectangle at times for a guide. If I draw a white rectangle and add stroke, the white "fill" area always leaves a slight pinkish box. I've made it true white and even turned fill off, nothing stops it. I tried to do a minus back using two rectangles, but it won't do it. I can have the exact desired frame in 6 seconds using Scalp. Not sure what I'm missing.  Clipping mask won't work either.

    When you say the minus won't do it what do you mean? Having trouble with the operation or it still showing the pink? Make sure the one rectangle is slightly larger and stack another slightly smaller on top,  be sure both are selected and use the minus front. 


  11. Give it a try you aren't out much if you buy a small order to test. I recommend a heat press first though. You'll be surprised the difference just that makes. 

    I do mostly cut vinyl on smaller volumes. Cut vinyl is so much more vibrant than printed transfers and lasts longer than about anything. It requires a cutter, some design skills and of course a heat press but it's been a great revenue stream. 

    • Like 1

  12. On 10/19/2019 at 3:46 PM, Lheezy94 said:

    Ok thanks and Yeah I am going to be investing in a heat press. So would you say neenah make the best quality heat transfer paper?

    For white shirts the JPSS is untouchable. No one even comes close. For darks the 3G seems to be about as good as you can get. I used to do more of the transfers than I do now and I tried several commercial grade options. ALL of the ones for darks have a lousy feel to them even after a washing cycle. Feel like someone glues a piece of paper on your chest. I try to talk most people either into a white shirt so I can use JPSS or altogether away from the transfer onto darks if I can fide another option with HTV etc... I think the only really good way to get full color onto darks that has any kind of hand is DTG printing. Too expensive for my operation but it does do this application good. 

    The JPSS on a white cotton or blended shirt is almost not there. I always make sure and trim off the excess around the edges to about 1/8" or less and try not to leave straight lines on the edges where there are open spots between letters etc... and be sure and follow the application instructions and give it a light stretch while hot so it sort of stretches and then settles down in the weave. I have a couple shirts I built for myself that have been through countless wash cycles and they still look great. If you cold peel them they don't last as long and will start to fleck and come loose.

    • Like 1

  13. Not familiar with that brand of transfer. It is possible that it's a little thin and doesn't get good coverage on darks. Commercial grade transfers do exist. For dark transfers I usually recommend Neenah 3G Jet Opaque and for white shirts Jet Pro Soft Stretch (JPSS). 

    If you intend to do shirts to sell (or even a lot for how use)I would recommend investing in a heat press. There is no comparison between a bonafide heat press and trying to get consistency with a hand iron. I know that several transfers and even some cut vinyl are advertised to be able to hand iron but the difference is the applied product and it's subsequent lifespan is remarkable. 

    • Like 1

  14. Same here I have CS5 on my mac although it has a glitch when in the font view you have to be careful how you scroll through or it will crash. That has been going on since I went to version 10:13 High Sierra 

    You might take a look at this thread:

     


  15. Here is a screenshot of the print dialog General tab. The area in the circle is where you choose the paper size once you tag the "tile" box. Down beside the Tile toggle you can adjust from "Full Pages" and adjust the overlap or choose "Imagable Area" 

     

    Screen Shot 2019-10-15 at 10.43.38 PM.png


  16. 21 hours ago, jamiefeld said:

    Thank you for the suggestion! Unfortunately it doesn’t support the type of files I’ve been using. (I turn my handlettering i do on my iPad into wood signs using vinyl stencil. I like the basic ness of SCALP4). So I may try uninstalling the Mac iOS upgrade and see if that fixes it. I really hope that works. 

    SignCut does svg just fine. I use mac computers and SignCut Pro 1 and it's a great workflow. USCutter used to provide a years subscription to SIgnCut Pro 1 with new cutter purchases. There is a new Pro 2 version out that has a little more design capability but I do my design work in Adobe Illustrator anyway so that part is no concern. I got used to SignCut and continue to use it to this day even after upgrading to a servo cutter but I went ahead and purchased the lifetime dongle so I didn't have to pay rent on the program and so I can hop computers at will. I like it because it will actually run on mac and pc not either/or.

    If they come through with a mac version of Vinyl Master that would be really sweet. As a mod I have access to VM for training and learning and it's a really well built program for what we do. I am still a dedicated AI guy but VM has some features that can save a lot of time and is about the best bang for the buck design and cut combination available. 


  17. On 10/8/2019 at 2:37 PM, johnsonsarav48 said:

    ok that's good if yo are available, I new here Maria,

    US Cutter used to sell cutters with a year of free SignCut Pro included. I wish it was still an option because they are a great way to interface with mac computers. (I still choose to use it with my Summa) They stopped showing up on the forum after they quit getting as much traffic as they used to but the website address is still the right one and they have great live tech support. You have to go to the site and submit a support request and they will contact you back and usually deal with you via a live chat session but will also call if needed and I even had them remote into my computer one time when I was brand new to it all. 

    • Like 1

  18. Agree with both Skeeter and darcshadow. The single biggest mistake we see is the blade exposure setting. Follow Skeeters directions (second paragraph in second post in this thread). Once you have that set properly then you can start to dial in the rest. 

    SignCut Pro is a great cutting interface. If you are having things show up that shouldn't then there is something wrong. I use the original Pro 1 and wouldn't trade for anything. They have free live tech support. Go to the website and enter a support request and they will get with you pretty quickly. On my first cutter I had to have them remote into my computer to figure out what was wrong. Be sure the cutter you chose in SignCut "Cutter" tab is exactly your cutter. SignCut has it's own drivers but your chip (assuming you are using a USB cord) is possibly one of the cheap ones and might need something installed to hook up properly. This would be some sort of installation disc that would have come with your cutter possibly. I'm NOT a technical guru, just making suggestions to check. 

    I also agree with Skeeter on testing with a known pristine file so you KNOW there isn't already a rounded corner. Make a small 1" square in Inkscape and use that so you can see if your blade offset is set right. 

    • Like 1