Wildgoose

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Everything posted by Wildgoose

  1. Wildgoose

    Brand Of Parchment Paper Available In UK For Layering

    I think you want the stuff that is suitable for cooking. The idea of the parchment is that it's a non stick surface. The cooking variety absolutely works. I actually started using it for a cover sheet with heat press work and then one day was trying a layered job and sort of as a fluke tried it out. I had accidentally not done the correct layout of the two layers and the backing on one was not going to work out on the other and I needed something to lay out there on the table when I layered it so the top layer that didn't stick to my table. One thing led to another and it became my go-to way to layer. It is NOT clear but you can see through it pretty good. Not being from the UK I no nothing about what is available to you at the stores there. I am surprised that they wouldn't have baking parchment paper though. Maybe find a bakery shop that makes cookies and see if they have a commercial supplier or would sell you a roll? As mentioned in a different thread I also sometimes buy gerber 225 vinyl sold by a local supplier that has a clear carrier and that stuff IS totally clear and as long as you remember to keep the slick side up it works great. I had one job I actually wasted a piece of the 225 just so I could use the carrier to layer some other work. This was large format stuff that the parchment was not big enough for.
  2. Wildgoose

    Voice of Wesco

    I doubt it is your vinyl. It's more likely setup in one way or other. The corners don't look crisp and that could either be the font or your blade offset. If the cut letters do not look like the ones on your desktop then you have some settings off. Can you just type in the strings of text rather than importing them as .vDoc? See if that makes a difference. I wouldn't do too many at once. The spacing is weird probably because of the vDoc as well. If you give them a little more space you can use a weeding line more effectively. Some jobs I use a weeding line in-between each line of letters and then carefully pull up from one end while I make sure each letter stays in place or occasionally I run a weed line along the top and bottom of each line of letters touching the letters and quickly pull the open stretch between the lines up then carefully lift each small piece between the letters so as not to mess them up. Not sure if that makes sense written out.
  3. Wildgoose

    Cutter software

    What format is the file in? You should see some sort of file extension on the end of the logo file like one of these: .eps, .ai, .svg, .cdr, .pdf, or it could be something like one of these: .ps, .png, .jpg, .wmf which are not vector supported formats. Not all vector files are pure vectors either but might have a raster image embedded or a mix. Unfortunately the technical aspect of cutting can "cull the herd" as we say in Idaho. I'm no rancher though, other terms might include "blood the troops", separate the wheat from the chaff, men from the boys... I think you get it. Best advice is spend some serious screen time on tutorials and practice, practice practice.
  4. Wildgoose

    1st Gen SC and SCAL 5 Pro

    I wonder if the SCAL 5 is ignoring the fact that the cutter is one of the old 1st gen cutters and lumping them all together. Heck I don't know enough about drivers to know if they are even different. I agree with all the sentiments that Vinyl Master is a way better program. SCAL had hopeful props early on but just didn't seem to deliver on things, I tried out the beta version but gave up after too many issues. It evidently IS some sort of rocket science to get a cutting program that gets it right. Not everyone can pull it off.
  5. Wildgoose

    Voice of Wesco

    Double check you haven't broken a tip. Happens sometimes and may effect the cut. Looking at the pic I would NOT think that's your problem. I am having a hard time figuring out why you have all the weird boxes associated with each letter. I see where the O in Robin has been overcut with one of the corners of a box. Strange looking job. I'd be interested in looking at the cut file in a basic format like .eps or similar.
  6. Wildgoose

    Any Tips On Applying Loaded Transfer Paper

    I just buy parchment paper at the grocery store in the cooking isle like you would use to bake cookies. Cheap stuff works great. Another option I have started doing is when I happen to do a local project that needs 3M/Gerber vinyl I buy the 225 as opposed to 220 cast vinyl. It comes on a clear synthetic carrier and save the backing for use when stacking or need to align things. Not sure in your location what the options are. I save all the clear backing I get my hands on. It also does a fair job of making paint stencils if you use a cutting mat or a few layers of app tape will work as well to create a carrier so you can cut out the stencil pieces.
  7. Wildgoose

    Any Tips On Applying Loaded Transfer Paper

    It sounds like maybe a build technique issue. If you are trying to align the word in a certain spot are you using some sort of tape hinge? Some layered work needs to be tight registration with other parts and the parchment paper works really good for that but just as often it's simply alignment with a substrate and if you are new you might not realize that most of us use some masking tape to get the design where we want it and hold it there. To be effective you will want straight edges or the hinge will go wonky. I usually trim my masked work with equal reveal on all sides to aid in keeping things straight on the install. I use a side hinge if possible and hinge it on the right side so I can flip it over and remove the carrier then handle the app tape with design with my left had while I squeegee my way across using my right hand (I am right handed). A top hinge or a bottom hinge is also functional and each of us develop our own methods that we like best. On really large graphics a center hinge is often used but takes practice and sometimes an extra set of hands. ALL of these require a little practice.
  8. I have found that backorders with ANY company are sketchy right now. I think it has a lot to do with the volatile offshore market. I am a Richardson Cap dealer and sometimes have to go buy them from a wholesaler who buys more than I do because the colors I want are out at Richardson and the backorders are approximate. I am sure that USCutter has similar issues with shipments. Like Slice mentioned (and others) it's a good idea to call ahead on big purchases. Or at least pay very close attention to the website availability.
  9. Wildgoose

    I’m back your warned!!

    All good, all good. LOL
  10. Wildgoose

    I’m back your warned!!

    Yeaa Hatters back!
  11. You may have to wait for an update on the plug-in from Roland, thats one of the unintended consequences of the high zoot Illustrator CC, everyone has to try and keep up with the constant updates. I am running CS5 on 10.13 with only a small glitch in font view but is otherwise stable. I remember when I first bought CS5 I had lots of trouble with it being the newest out there for about a season. Now it's oldish but still gets me by and I don't pay rent.
  12. Wildgoose

    Layering vinyl questions

    Did you try popping them with a pin? It should let you bleed the air out of the ones big enough to poke. Sometimes smallish bubbles will work out over time but not a guarantee and it looks bad when someone buys something that has bubbles before they ever even install them. Paper tape is better too, and a lot more forgiving even if a little harder to align, but it can be done fairly easy when the background color is darker like that. If I am selling to self applicators I typically put registration marks and make them install in layers.
  13. Wildgoose

    HP Cutter Blades

    Thank you for the circle back. This really helps the future searchers.
  14. Wildgoose

    Adobe Illustrator

    Weird, I swear I responded to this already but must have failed to push send. I agree with Slice, no options without a plug-in from a third party program. I am an Illustrator guy and use SignCut Pro1 to speak to my cutter. If you bought the cutter you would have received some sort of program with it. You are in the VinylMaster section so I have to assume you have at least the CUT version? If so it will read a native AI file. I would suggest downsaving to version 8. Most of the CC versions have things that cause compatibility issues like multiple artboards etc....
  15. Wildgoose

    cobra ink epson printers

    That printer says it's not capable of photo prints so I am pretty sure that means it will not run the pigment based inks. So no I think the pigment ink would clog up immediately as pigment ink has suspended solids in the ink where regular office printing dye ink does not.
  16. Wildgoose

    Thoughts on the FC8600 Cutters

    You probably know this but if you are doing bike graphics you will also need to choose vinyl capable of good adhesion to LSE (low surface energy) plastics. There are several product lines out there but the hapless novice might try to use regular print and cut adhesive vinyl and have disastrous results.
  17. Wildgoose

    Thoughts on the FC8600 Cutters

    They are one of the very best available. Graphtec has earned it's reputation through years and years of happy customers. Bullet proof design and as long a life as any cutter on the market. You have to define "Best" choice though. If you are printing and contour cutting printed work I have always heard the Graphtec's struggle a bit with their optical eye finding the printed registration marks. I think the Roland's do better in that regard, however the Roland cutters are not known to be as tough and sturdy as the Graphtec. Summa makes a couple comparable cutters the SummaCut sits somewhere in between the CE and FC versions of the Graphtec. They are only rated to 400g cutting force but have phenomenal tracking and great optical eye. Its what I own although I do not print so I don't utilize the optical eye. The Summa T series is a true tangential machine that has the higher downforce like the FC but costs a few thousand more. Gerber makes some really nice machines as well but are obscene priced IMO. There are other high end brands out there too.
  18. Wildgoose

    Light Grey 651

    US Cutter sells several mat finished options in the 970RA wrap vinyl. https://www.uscutter.com/ORACAL-970RA-Wrapping-Cast-with-Rapid-Air-Technology-60in-Wide
  19. Wildgoose

    Best Transfer Tape

    I use the 4076 RLA as well. Sometimes 4075 which is almost as high of tack.
  20. I would almost guarantee this is correct. The added pinch rollers would help keep the material aligned during a high pressure cut but the strength of pull and the weight of the material is surely pushing the servo motors to their limit. I am no electronics wizard but there are surely some load limits the the motors have. You definitely have a unique situation where you can't really let the magnet lay down into the material catch bins.
  21. I think you would definitely benefit from the extra pinch rollers. I think I mentioned that I once considered an FC machine and they last who was the rep had a 30" model that had been set up to go to a sand blast outfit who would have been cutting blast resist which is similar in thickness to magnet. They had at least one extra roller maybe two and she said it was to help feed the material straight due to the heavy pressure of that thick a cut. I was going to pull them off for what I do and just save them for replacements or something.
  22. Wildgoose

    Pallet board stencilling

    I think it adds a little character to it having the paint go down into the seams a little like that. Looks great!
  23. Just for morbid curiosity I imported the dxf into Illustrator on my mac to see what size it would come in at. Came in at 106.084 mm. I have had trouble getting files to be at the right size most of the time when using dxf file formats in Adobe. If you know the size it's supposed to be I don't see why is makes a difference. You can just upsize it to the correct dimension in any vector program. Pretty sure that all the new cutters from Graphtec can get the software for free as long as it's a modern cutter. BUT I am not a Graphtec owner so it's not in my wheel house.
  24. I design on a mac and have mac compatible software (SignCut Pro1, which is strictly a cutter interface) but most of the time take my designs over to a cheap windows laptop and cut with that. More to do with keeping my design workstation unfettered than anything to do with the OS platform. I design in Adobe Illustrator as many mac users who cut do. The Graphtec FC series are going to be a much better option than the Roland. They are built for higher cutting pressures. Another option might be a Summa T series tangential cutter. They actually steer the blade around the corners rather than dragging the castor style blades all the drag knife regular cutters do. Using the higher downforce when cutting is going to translate into a lot more working force on all the components and that is why none of us want to use our pricey fine cutting machines to hack away at thick magnetic. At least the high end machines like the FC and the T Series Summa are built to take the abuse although it still makes me shudder to think of doing that to one. I have been wanting to step up to a tangential Summa machine (currently running a SummaCut drag knife) but not for the increased cutting power more for the increased accuracy that is supposed to be the case. I really just have this little devil that sits on my shoulder making me think I need one. I think if I were you and were considering spending the kind of dough that it's going to take for one of these high end cutters I would take a nice sized sample and go find a test machine and see if they can cut it like you want. Graphtec should be easy to find a dealer or a user somewhere near you, they are the most widely used name brand machines in the states. You will just have to find someone who cuts with the FC series. You might check with some of the sandblast people in your area. The local salesperson for Graphtec in my area has a couple clients that use the FC's for cutting blast resist which would be very similar to your magnetic. I almost bought an FC from her when I was upgrading.
  25. Any of you guys who run the lasers think you could cut with a laser? To klcjr - Magnets as mentioned are really hard to cut and hard on a fine tuned machine. Getting your cutter to cut accurately would be the very first thing you would need to do and you would want to start out by cutting some cheap sign vinyl which it's actually designed to cut. IF it's cutting regular vinyl at regular pressures ok but not the magnet then you will have an answer about whether your cutter has a problem or if it's related to the 30 mil issue. Assuming that it ALSO cuts out of dimensions then you will need to calibrate your cutter. Each cutting program goes about it a little different but they pretty much all have a way. If it's cutting sign vinyl at the correct size but not the magnet then you are probably not going to have success. The heavy magnetic material is likely more weight than your pinch rollers can keep hold of properly especially if you are dragging a knife blade through it. I have cut a few, and I stress FEW, like two times with my Summa. I did three passes at a regular pressure and it did ok. You also have a whole other part of the equation that you are probably not considering. You can't cut clear through any material without having some sort of carrier sheet. Vinyl and Heat Transfer Vinyl come on a carrier sheet. I seriously doubt your magnet does. I recommend if you keep trying and get it to cut satisfactory that you should leave just a little bit so the magnet is still one piece and then you can break it free. That's what I did on the couple that I cut. This will work for an occasional project but mass production is probably not all that viable. The big factories use a true die cutter and stamp cut them out I think. Very mass production.