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Everything posted by Wildgoose

  1. Wildgoose

    Cutting at the beginning

    Have you looked at the file in wireframe to be double sure that the file itself is good. Of you are cutting scraps have you told the cutter what size of material scrap you are cutting on?
  2. Wildgoose

    Cutting at the beginning

    We will need more info. What cutting program are you using? Is this on every job or just one? If it's not copyright protected up load the cut file in EPS format and we will take a look.
  3. Wildgoose

    Comparable font to LHF Scriptana

    I did a search and could not find any smoothed version of that font. If there are a bunch of different sleeve files (like kids names) I would just pick some other script font and go with it or if there is a front logo in this and a clash of script font's would look off go with something totally different. Most clients will get it if you explain the why and let them have a couple choices.
  4. Those are definitely ugly cuts and not what a Graphtec is capable of. You must have something wrong or a busted cutter. I use SignCut Pro and it works great with mac and Illustrator. Might be worth trying the free trial just to rule out once and for all any kind of software problem but I don't think it's software. Software doesn't get it THAT wrong, at least not on any quality cutter like the Graphtec. I would say you have something broken, loose or your pinch rollers are not over the drive wheels. I am not a Graphtec owner so the machine specific stuff I am no help.
  5. Wildgoose

    Cutting direction question

    Pretty sure there is a check box that will rotate the cut direction 90deg. I don't use SCALP either so I'm not 100% on that.
  6. Wildgoose

    quick help!!!! poli flex premium

    I have only experimented with a small piece of the poly-flex but according to the specs on the USCutter website it is fine on 100% polyester. Sorry for the late answer.
  7. I was reading through this earlier post and noticed the 2mm comment. That is a LOT of blade. Your Oracal 631 is 3 mil (or 3 thousands of an inch) that's only about 0.08 mm. I would try setting the blade depth just to be sure because even though it doesn't seem like it would matter it totally does. As Skeeter has said many times, pull the blade holder off the machine and set it so that it barely cuts into the paper backing but not all the way through. When you are actually cutting you should be just grazing the surface of the carrier but not be able to feel it from the back and you should be able to just barely see a gap from the actual holder to the surface of the vinyl when it is cutting. I lean down and make sure I can see just a touch of air almost nothing.
  8. Wildgoose

    So much out there.

    I am sort of a fundamentalist at heart. I prefer to do my own logo work from scratch MOST of the time. HOWEVER I would be totally lying if I said I don't also buy vectors and such. I have a large collection of design elements that I occasionally pull from when building. I like SignTorch's stuff. They do great vector work and are worth grabbing at least a few of the freebies to study their awesome drawing skills (as to the proper way to lay out nodes and radius work) I am an Adobe Illustrator aficionado but always warn people that it's not for the faint of heart. Great program and is mac compatible which was important for me. Many people find it confusing and I do not knock anyone who doesn't like it. Once learned you can pretty much build anything and it remains the industry standard. It's also expensive on top of everything else. Does it sound like I am almost trying to convince you to try something else? I can sleep at night knowing I warned you Many find Corel Draw to be friendly and there is Inkscape which is completely free. Pro level sign shops often use Flexi. In a nutshell there are several options that will do vector design and you will have to weigh out what is within your budget and fits your game plan. If you bought a cutter from USCutter they come with either Sure Cuts a Lot Pro (SCALP for short) that is the common mac option or Vinyl Master. Vinyl Master in one of the upper level versions (I suggest VM Pro) is a really good deal for the price and user friendly and is a full on Design AND Cut like Flexi or SCALP. SCALP will work on mac but is sort of sucky as to the design side. Some on here have worked with it and can make it sing but I found it lacking. Whichever program you go to you will need some sort of cutter interface (assuming you own and use a cutter). AI and Corel do not interface without additional plug-ins. Inscape has some sort of cutter driver ability on a rudimentary level but I don't know anyone who actually uses it. I would not even consider giving up my cutting tools, they're just too convenient. (I use SignCut Pro1 in combination with AI) I have rambled on long enough, hopefully some of this info helps a little.
  9. Wildgoose

    Hello from tx

    Don't feel bad about being new. We all were at one point. The people on this forum are helpful and generally friendly. I am a mac user myself. I use a paid program to interface with my cutter called SignCut Pro. I design in Adobe Illustrator on my mac and transfer cut files over to an older windows laptop to cut. SignCut will run on either platform but I generally keep the cutter in another part of the room so the windows laptop is just convenient. I like to watch it give me the blue screen about every other time I start it up, it's therapeutic. <sarcasm> My point is there are lots of ways to get the job done and many of them are borne from necessity or budgetary constraints.
  10. Wildgoose

    Vinyl not sticking

    I do a lot of shirt work. The sc2 is a good choice as a starter cutter and should be capable of most things you will tackle as a newbie. If you read the reviews someone already responded that the HTV they included is crappy. There are lots of crappy options out there. Do yourself a favor and buy the good stuff and you will save yourself a lot of frustration. Siser is my personal brand of choice. I do tens of thousands of dollars worth of shirts and sporting apparel and it has been the best for almost every application. Easyweed and Easyweed Stretch (I use stretch whenever possible but some colors are only available in regular). As mentioned by Dakota be SURE to check the temp because presses are notorious about being off. My first press was so far off I had to make a little sticky with conversion temps. Like he mentioned make sure you set it so the coolest place on the platen is up to temp. Good quality HTV like Siser can handle being too hot but if it's not hot enough it will fail. I did some testing to see how hot Siser could go just so I'd know. Recommended at 305deg. I was clear up to 380 or higher and it still seemed ok. I quit worrying at that point. I think if you over heat it can shorten the lifespan a little by scorching the vinyl making it more brittle but it's pretty resilient. Another note. The press in your kit does not appear to have a center press point. When you press different thicknesses the two platens need to stay aligned so that even pressure is across the whole garment. The low budget presses are sometimes solid built and will pinch more on the back if pressing thicker stuff. Not much you can do other than be aware of it. Some let the lower platen wobble a little to help and the better built ones have a center point or a set of springs to allow the upper platen to level out. If you find yourself doing a lot of shirts and decide to upgrade it would be wise to research the options out there.
  11. Wildgoose

    MH 721 not cutting correctly

    It sounds like you have no problem with it when you stay within the cutting limits so slice is on the right track. Does the design end up going off the edge and therefore your cutting head follow it to hit the red button?
  12. Wildgoose

    MH 721 not cutting correctly

    I understand, and the MH does serve as a good tool to get your feet wet without too much investment. I started out with a budget model too although I went a couple rungs up from the bottom with a P-Cut (no longer offered) similar to the new SC2. Not much more out of pocket but I think quite a bit better machine. I reached the point I was getting jobs that my machine could not handle and ended up investing in a servo machine. After the upgrade I don't think I would go back at any cost. The difference is so dramatic it's hard to believe. I do a lot of HTV shirt work and was trying to cut multiple small left chest graphics. The most I could get away with was about 10 without having something go wonky and ruin the whole batch. I had to spray anti-static cling around the cutter to keep it from having static electrical problems and hovered over the cut while it was going in case it decided to glitch out and I could immediately stop it and save the ones that got done. with my new machine I have literally loaded up a 50 yard roll and started the cutter working on hundreds of copies and went to bed. It will cut all night and be sitting ready for me in the morning.
  13. Wildgoose

    MH 721 not cutting correctly

    We don't have a lot of love for the MH here on the forum. You are personally experiencing why. More problems with that model than any other. It's so low in the barrel that you have to scrape the gunk out to even get to it. (metaphorically speaking). A similar post a week or two back slice&dice used a term I had not heard before: "cliff it" and I am still chuckling about that, the mental image.
  14. Wildgoose

    Text to curve surface

    The best way I have ever found is to make a paper template by hand and then scanning it in. Take a piece of paper and wrap it around the tumbler and then draw a straight line top and bottom and when you unwrap the paper it will have the proper curve to negate the curve of the glass. There are mathematical ways of doing it but this way is faster.
  15. Wildgoose

    Best material to use for large (4x8ft) outdoor sign?

    I second the Dibond. Around there they have another slightly cheaper option called E-panel that is pretty much the same but can't handle being warped like disband can. So if it's staying straight I always use the E-panel. Other than that you are back to regular signboard which is heaver and will probably be more likely to give long term problems along the edges of the board or go to an actual aluminum sign blank which is heavy and expensive but the toughest of them all IMO.
  16. Wildgoose

    Vinyl tracking

    I agree with skeeter on that many copies. if each 45" is just a single one then that would be 2250 inches or over 187 feet. More than a full 50 yard roll. Your cutter is classed for beginners which means home and hobby use. Most of us have or have had similar cutters and used them for much more than home and hobby once we got some experience under our belt but you have to know your machines limitations. One or two at a time is probably the best way to go. You can be weeding those and maybe even applying them while the next set cuts.
  17. Wildgoose

    Vinyl tracking

    If it's 45 inches long you are getting close to the max cutting length. Most of the budget cutters do not track super straight to begin with so 4ft is about the max SAFE distance to expect it to stay straight. As Dakota mentioned loading up straight is the key. Once you get a piece of vinyl loaded and can run some manually back and forth to see that it is staying straight to the edge (meaning the edge beside one of the pinch rollers) this is called pre-feeding and should be pre-fed for the approximate length of the job to avoid the machine having to try and unroll more vinyl while cutting. Others have sad this but sometimes repetition is good in case it slipped by you. The measure tape installed on the front and I assume back of the machine (I don't have an SC2 so I am guessing) are supposed to help align material. Be very SKEPTICAL of the alignment until you have proven it to be accurate. Many are not. Your speed of 100 does not sound too fast. Not sure what min and max speed are on the SC2 but 100 probably means somewhere around 100mm/sec which is not bad to start out with. If you are getting good consistent cuts then you can slowly increase your cut speed to a faster setting if you thing it's going too slowly. I have a $3500 cutter and do not cut fast with it even though it is capable. No reason to hurry when hurry may cause a messed up project.
  18. Wildgoose

    Over Lapping and centers being filled,when using the fill option.

    It’s usually something silly like that. It should do that automatically when you convert to curves from live text at least that’s how it works in AI. Those frustrating lessons are the ones that remain ingrained in our minds though so experience really IS the best teacher.
  19. Wildgoose

    Graphtec fc8000-100

    Same here. I don't run a Graphtec but do have a high end servo machine. It is capable of 800mm/sec but I run it at 200. That's plenty fast. I look at it like my mazarati does 185 but I wouldn't drive it that fast all the time. Why wear things out on an expensive fine tuned machine prematurely.
  20. Wildgoose

    My daughter wants a T shirt

    I started out doing or aiming to do sign work but have gravitated to 99% shirts and other forms of apparel. There is a lot stronger market IMO. Because I do SO many HTV projects I have trained myself to save my cut ready files already mirrored. On the rare occasion that I need to cut one of the designs out of sign vinyl it is immediately eye catching when it's backwards. I have never accidentally cut sign vinyl mirrored but definitely have done it wrong the other direction before I changed my workflow. One particularly painful job I loaded up a roll of HTV and set it to cutting many copies of a shirt graphic and didn't remember that it needed mirrored and ran through about 6 yards of material.
  21. Wildgoose

    Over Lapping and centers being filled,when using the fill option.

    I'm not a flexi person and have never used this option but it seems to be that your objects are not built properly. Your O for instance is being treated like two separate objects. You need to have made sure the O is a compound shape in that there is a hole through it rather than two circles in your case ovals that sit atop one another. I can tell you how to deal with this in Adobe but not flexi but maybe the info is enough for you to trouble shoot it.
  22. Wildgoose

    My daughter wants a T shirt

    USC does sell HTV by the foot. If you order other things throw some in. Siser says you can apply with an iron. I wouldn't expect it to last as well as if it was placed with a real press though. I would be skeptical of the off brands. Siser is my fav and stahls cad-cut my second. I do 98% with Siser. Watch the installation temp because a lot of other brands go on at higher temps like 320 or even higher in some cases. You will be cutting on the adhesive side so remember to mirror your graphic.
  23. Wildgoose

    splicing two colors

    I am not good at design with VM but you should have some tools to cut this into sections. In fact there are probably two or three ways to get there. I design in Adobe Illustrator so my skill set is not going to be helpful. In AI I would build the design then drop a rectangle over the part I wanted a different color and use it to divide the three sections. Bear in mind on the shirt it will be a little challenging to line all that up because once you press the first color it will cause things to shrink and expand and the next layer will be hard to get perfect alignment. You should always pre-heat your garment but even that will not stop the shrink and movement that happens with HTV. Best way I have found is to preheat extra long then press the first color just enough to get the carrier off (about 3 seconds with Siser) then quickly get the second layer on before it has chance to cool off too far. Still hard. I often design with some overlap to try and help. That particular design has those dividing lines and they will help hide misalignment so someone has their thinking cap on with that layout.
  24. Wildgoose

    BBQ Trophy

    Ha ha love the trophy . Mark I am jealous of your router.