Wildgoose

Super Moderators
  • Content Count

    6,086
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    243

Everything posted by Wildgoose

  1. Wildgoose

    MH 721 not cutting correctly

    It sounds like you have no problem with it when you stay within the cutting limits so slice is on the right track. Does the design end up going off the edge and therefore your cutting head follow it to hit the red button?
  2. Wildgoose

    MH 721 not cutting correctly

    I understand, and the MH does serve as a good tool to get your feet wet without too much investment. I started out with a budget model too although I went a couple rungs up from the bottom with a P-Cut (no longer offered) similar to the new SC2. Not much more out of pocket but I think quite a bit better machine. I reached the point I was getting jobs that my machine could not handle and ended up investing in a servo machine. After the upgrade I don't think I would go back at any cost. The difference is so dramatic it's hard to believe. I do a lot of HTV shirt work and was trying to cut multiple small left chest graphics. The most I could get away with was about 10 without having something go wonky and ruin the whole batch. I had to spray anti-static cling around the cutter to keep it from having static electrical problems and hovered over the cut while it was going in case it decided to glitch out and I could immediately stop it and save the ones that got done. with my new machine I have literally loaded up a 50 yard roll and started the cutter working on hundreds of copies and went to bed. It will cut all night and be sitting ready for me in the morning.
  3. Wildgoose

    MH 721 not cutting correctly

    We don't have a lot of love for the MH here on the forum. You are personally experiencing why. More problems with that model than any other. It's so low in the barrel that you have to scrape the gunk out to even get to it. (metaphorically speaking). A similar post a week or two back slice&dice used a term I had not heard before: "cliff it" and I am still chuckling about that, the mental image.
  4. Wildgoose

    Text to curve surface

    The best way I have ever found is to make a paper template by hand and then scanning it in. Take a piece of paper and wrap it around the tumbler and then draw a straight line top and bottom and when you unwrap the paper it will have the proper curve to negate the curve of the glass. There are mathematical ways of doing it but this way is faster.
  5. Wildgoose

    Best material to use for large (4x8ft) outdoor sign?

    I second the Dibond. Around there they have another slightly cheaper option called E-panel that is pretty much the same but can't handle being warped like disband can. So if it's staying straight I always use the E-panel. Other than that you are back to regular signboard which is heaver and will probably be more likely to give long term problems along the edges of the board or go to an actual aluminum sign blank which is heavy and expensive but the toughest of them all IMO.
  6. Wildgoose

    Vinyl tracking

    I agree with skeeter on that many copies. if each 45" is just a single one then that would be 2250 inches or over 187 feet. More than a full 50 yard roll. Your cutter is classed for beginners which means home and hobby use. Most of us have or have had similar cutters and used them for much more than home and hobby once we got some experience under our belt but you have to know your machines limitations. One or two at a time is probably the best way to go. You can be weeding those and maybe even applying them while the next set cuts.
  7. Wildgoose

    Vinyl tracking

    If it's 45 inches long you are getting close to the max cutting length. Most of the budget cutters do not track super straight to begin with so 4ft is about the max SAFE distance to expect it to stay straight. As Dakota mentioned loading up straight is the key. Once you get a piece of vinyl loaded and can run some manually back and forth to see that it is staying straight to the edge (meaning the edge beside one of the pinch rollers) this is called pre-feeding and should be pre-fed for the approximate length of the job to avoid the machine having to try and unroll more vinyl while cutting. Others have sad this but sometimes repetition is good in case it slipped by you. The measure tape installed on the front and I assume back of the machine (I don't have an SC2 so I am guessing) are supposed to help align material. Be very SKEPTICAL of the alignment until you have proven it to be accurate. Many are not. Your speed of 100 does not sound too fast. Not sure what min and max speed are on the SC2 but 100 probably means somewhere around 100mm/sec which is not bad to start out with. If you are getting good consistent cuts then you can slowly increase your cut speed to a faster setting if you thing it's going too slowly. I have a $3500 cutter and do not cut fast with it even though it is capable. No reason to hurry when hurry may cause a messed up project.
  8. Wildgoose

    Over Lapping and centers being filled,when using the fill option.

    It’s usually something silly like that. It should do that automatically when you convert to curves from live text at least that’s how it works in AI. Those frustrating lessons are the ones that remain ingrained in our minds though so experience really IS the best teacher.
  9. Wildgoose

    Graphtec fc8000-100

    Same here. I don't run a Graphtec but do have a high end servo machine. It is capable of 800mm/sec but I run it at 200. That's plenty fast. I look at it like my mazarati does 185 but I wouldn't drive it that fast all the time. Why wear things out on an expensive fine tuned machine prematurely.
  10. Wildgoose

    My daughter wants a T shirt

    I started out doing or aiming to do sign work but have gravitated to 99% shirts and other forms of apparel. There is a lot stronger market IMO. Because I do SO many HTV projects I have trained myself to save my cut ready files already mirrored. On the rare occasion that I need to cut one of the designs out of sign vinyl it is immediately eye catching when it's backwards. I have never accidentally cut sign vinyl mirrored but definitely have done it wrong the other direction before I changed my workflow. One particularly painful job I loaded up a roll of HTV and set it to cutting many copies of a shirt graphic and didn't remember that it needed mirrored and ran through about 6 yards of material.
  11. Wildgoose

    Over Lapping and centers being filled,when using the fill option.

    I'm not a flexi person and have never used this option but it seems to be that your objects are not built properly. Your O for instance is being treated like two separate objects. You need to have made sure the O is a compound shape in that there is a hole through it rather than two circles in your case ovals that sit atop one another. I can tell you how to deal with this in Adobe but not flexi but maybe the info is enough for you to trouble shoot it.
  12. Wildgoose

    My daughter wants a T shirt

    USC does sell HTV by the foot. If you order other things throw some in. Siser says you can apply with an iron. I wouldn't expect it to last as well as if it was placed with a real press though. I would be skeptical of the off brands. Siser is my fav and stahls cad-cut my second. I do 98% with Siser. Watch the installation temp because a lot of other brands go on at higher temps like 320 or even higher in some cases. You will be cutting on the adhesive side so remember to mirror your graphic.
  13. Wildgoose

    splicing two colors

    I am not good at design with VM but you should have some tools to cut this into sections. In fact there are probably two or three ways to get there. I design in Adobe Illustrator so my skill set is not going to be helpful. In AI I would build the design then drop a rectangle over the part I wanted a different color and use it to divide the three sections. Bear in mind on the shirt it will be a little challenging to line all that up because once you press the first color it will cause things to shrink and expand and the next layer will be hard to get perfect alignment. You should always pre-heat your garment but even that will not stop the shrink and movement that happens with HTV. Best way I have found is to preheat extra long then press the first color just enough to get the carrier off (about 3 seconds with Siser) then quickly get the second layer on before it has chance to cool off too far. Still hard. I often design with some overlap to try and help. That particular design has those dividing lines and they will help hide misalignment so someone has their thinking cap on with that layout.
  14. Wildgoose

    BBQ Trophy

    Ha ha love the trophy . Mark I am jealous of your router.
  15. Glad you are rolling! One good trick to use when in doubt about an image is to view it in wire frame mode. What you see in wire frame is what the cutter will see. SO if you see just a square box and no image inside it is a raster image (picture made of pixels not vector lines and curves) If the design is already vectored you will see the lines. You will also see hidden things that will mess with your cut like clipping masks that artists use to apply gradient fills etc... Depending on where you buy graphic art you may see all sorts of things that aren't actually cut ready. Sometimes things like non-welded script text or even hidden items that were on another layer that they forgot to delete. I do most of my own artwork for this very reason but clients often send me "cut ready" vectors and about 2 in 10 are actually ready to go.
  16. Wildgoose

    help me find the font

    Closest I could find is Virtucorp Regular but it's not a perfect match. A lot of the racing numbers are sold as a customer set of numbers that aren't an actual font.
  17. Wildgoose

    Latest project

    Pops good and matches the overall building layout nicely.
  18. Wildgoose

    Help with easy company logo

    When I can't find the exact font (which happens a lot) I start with the closest I can find and then modify it until I'm happy with it. Typically I place the original image in the background of my design program and build the new one over the top so all the layout is correct. Others will auto trace and then clean up the nodes but I find that takes me too long. If you have skills with photoshop or gimp and make the image super clean and straight black and white it will auto trace better. Text rarely comes through good though and that's why I prefer to just build it from scratch. This just one mans opinion.
  19. Wildgoose

    Help with easy company logo

    Raleway bold or semi-bold is going to be very close on the OSWEGO font.
  20. Wildgoose

    Friendly Reminder

    Thanks arty. I lost my HD last winter on my mac (after 8 years). Luckily I had most everything except a few invoices for a couple months on a back up drive but it motivated me to step up my game so I have a double external redundant set running now and did a single on my wifes mac too. Costco had 5TB drives for like $89 or something silly so I bought us each one and I already had a 1TB hooked up to mine.
  21. Wildgoose

    VM, SCALP?

    I agree with Dakota, VM may take more learning to switch over and will possibly cost more if you upgrade to Letter or Pro but is by far a better design and cut program. If you do go that route and do upgrade it I would go to the Pro level. There is also Expert but most of those tools come into play with printing.
  22. Wildgoose

    Titan 3 Cutting Issue

    I use SignCut Pro 1 which has an Illustrator plug-in. I am a mac guy and it's the best option for mac (assuming you also use Adobe Illustrator which it sounds like you do). It is not free though. I like it because it will work on any cutter and on both mac and pc. I bought the lifetime dongle so I can load it on multiple computers and just plug in the dongle to cut from whichever one I need to. There is now a Pro 2 version that has some design options (Pro 1 does not, it's strictly a cutter interface) I have not played with Pro 2 at all because I do all my design in AI anyway.
  23. Tonero I see people do it. It depends on the paper you are using I think. The 3G for darks is definitely a type of vinyl product that you can contour cut and weed very similar to regular sign vinyl. I have even seen people do this with JPSS for light shirts but have never tried JPSS. I did a couple with 3G but the registration marks for the contour cut have to be out away from the graphic far enough that you lose a lot of your print space. I don't know of your plotter has an optical eve or if you have to manually line everything up. I usually just use transfer paper for white shirts with JPSS cause I don't like the feel of the 3G or any other type for darks. With JPSS it's faster to trim by hand with an exacto blade. Being a clear transfer product you can't really see the edges as long as you don't let them be a straight line. Do not pre wash your shirts. Several reasons: You will introduce more moisture, they shirt will do weird things and no longer lay flat properly, most washing detergent leaves residue and lastly there is usually a natural crease down the middle that the factory used to align the shirt when sewing it that helps align the logo. You can press your own crease but time is money and in any kind of volume you don't want to mess with washing or extra press time trying to get the moisture to steam out or throwing a crease to keep it all straight.
  24. Wildgoose

    57

    No luck on my search either. Definitely a racing font possibly a custom one off or from a special number set that is not an actual font/typeface.