Wildgoose

Take a look in your layers stack and you will probably find an unfilled bject (object with no fill color). Certain operations in Illustrator can cause an extra layer to be included within the design. Most often these are in areas that are considered open "holes" within a design but I have seen them outside in some situations. It is rare that custom vectors are built to what I would call "cut ready" state. Unless someone is in the business they don't realize that cutting programs will still recognize lines and curves that have no fill or stroke and it CAN cause issues. Theoretically if you are cutting by color you would not accidentally get those objects but it can get messy pretty easy. The unfilled open holes problem in Illustrator most often comes from using the "merge" command and it is therefore best to use the "unite" command instead whenever possible. The "merge" command is very similar to "unite" but does not remove or ignore any internal objects within a compound path. Just one of Illustrators exhaustive options for specific situations. In older versions of Illy the 'merge" was immediately visible but I notice that in the current cloud version they have half hidden it which is nice IMO.

Good point, probably be cheaper to just buy the lowest version and do it

Maybe find someone with SCAL willing to open and re-export your files into a usable option for a small nominal fee?

I have layered about 3 layers of app tape to create a makeshift carrier. Kind of one time use but it worked for me.

Staffer? LOL sorry but even us Moderators on the forum are not paid employee's, only volunteers helping keep the forum rolling in our spare time. We don't work for US Cutter. We willingly help out because we have a passion for the craft and (for me at least) I recieved a TON of help from people on here when I first started into cutting and have felt like I wanted to pay it forward. Essentially everyone on here is attempting to help out where we can but both our skills and our time are limited. VM does frequent the forum and apparently has seen your posts so you have benifited a little from that. Good luck and I suggest following through with a remote session.

You would need to either select the color of those registration marks (selecting 2 colors at the same time in your cutting software) or make a second copy of the mark exactly over the top of the first set and make them the same color as that color of the design. If exactly stacked you won't see them but both layers will be there when you go to cut by color. Not sure what program you are using to design but there is often an option to paste an item in place or on top etc... Copy paste in place and then change the color of the new set is how I do it.

You might try the free trial of SignCut Pro and see if it will run the MH. We have occasionally had people try but not many that have reported back to the forum. If you are able to get it to cut please give feedback for the next guy.

If you make your own registration marks you can place them wherever you want. You could have a set that are specific to the metallic and another set that are specific to the third color.

As bikemike mentioned many of us manually create our layering registration marks so we can place them where we want them (and use a shape we like, I like a plus mark). You can do like he said and make them a completely separate color layer from the rest and cut that color along with each color layer and all layers will have the circle. Not sure if there are options to change to regular mark or not. Alternatively you can make a set for one color layer and copy/paste them in place in a stack and change the color of each set to match the next color layer. This is more work but is how I do it most of the time.

You will probably want to do some test projects to develop a workflow. You SHOULD be able to print now and then at your convenience do the cut later. Most of the time you will want to be sure that you have enough extra length that the job doesn't run itself out of the cutter. I personally do not print and cut so I only have a limited knowledge and very little specific. My cutter has an optical eye and I have played around with it from time to time but not from the VM program. I am assuming you have a fairly high level of the program? I'd have to look but I think you need at least the DSR version and more likely the XPT level for full RIP software. If you have RIP from your printer hopefully it will interface ohm with VM to perform the contour cut. There are a lot of elements to make print and cut run smoothly. The dedicated print and cut machines are nice because of all being on one platform but I know the other way can work fine too. I'm not a lot of help but I wish you well.

I think you still have blade offset issues. You should be able to dial the offset and see real results. Skeeter gave some good starting numbers. I would expect your blade to be right around the .25mm (that is 0.25mm) but most cutter vary. As you play with the numbers you will see corresponding results o tight corners where they get rounded or have tails as seen in the attached help file. Find the perfect middle by exploring both sides of the spectrum. Not sure about your cutter adjustment, some do it totally within the cutting software and some on the machine user interface and some will do it either way. I use the older SignCut PRO 1 but I think the basic stuff is similar. There should be an option to adjust the speed, force, offset and overcut. If you don't see any changes as you mess with the numbers then you are NOT making any changes and need to trouble shoot why. If your machine has those settings in the user interface on the cutter it may not accept the input from SignCut.

I agree with Dakota, that shoould work fine. I have always wanted a glass top for my workspace but have never made the leap. I hear they are the bomb but might be problematic if you are trying to move it off and on.

This is a users forum so we are all pretty familiar with USC. I would say their phone support is a little weak and the techs are probably minimal specific knowledge because they sell so many different products. As for pricing and shipping they have always done me totally (and I mean TOTALLY) solid. I have had a few mistaken shipments that had something wrong, either damaged in transit or something missing. USC always made it right witout any issues at all other than the obvious time to re-ship something.

Just a question, do you print and cut these as one large print job and registration marks out on the edges or a series of copies? I don't print so do not contour cut but have read in my users manual about the various options on my cutter (Summa not Graphtec) and it appears that it will do it either way. Just logical thinking there may be a discrepancy if doing multiple copies where it is getting off somewhere along the process of doing multiple copies. If it's all one graphic then either it isn't (or didn't) read the marks well or it's fighting off tracking which would show problems on the later part of the project. Summa has additional registration marks every so often down the sides to keep track of any variance, I would assume Graphtec will do similar.

Not sure about the Joto but a lot of these are all made in the same factories. It looks to be well built for a budget press. Definitely a few steps up the ladder from the bottom of the barrel and states that it has a well built platen. I have only had one clam (an older Hix) and did not enjoy having the heat platen right above my knuckles but they are more space saving and budget saving as well. I have an auto open Hat press (hotronix) and REALLY like the auto open feature. Not sure how the electro-mag hold down longevity is but it appress to be a clone of the Hotronix magnet. I would say for a start-up that is a pretty good choice.

That type of cutting is often called Flex-cut or Kiss-Cut. Typically the first cut around a printed object (termed a "contour cut") is done normal then a second cut (usually a little farther out from the original contour cut line) with the FLex-Cut/Kiss-Cut setting cuts the vinyl and periodically pushes on down harder and cuts the carrier sheet as well then pops back up to continue cutting just the vinyl and so on. The decals can later be broken free of the carrier with light finger pressure. This process won't work with regular cut gaphics that need a tranfer paper but does work with printed graphics that have a fairly simple countor shape. If you cut all the way through the carrier sheet all heck will break loose and you lose the integrity of the sheet as it's trying to feed the vinyl back and forth in the pinch rollers. Summa makes a flat-bed cutter than has vacume hold down that can probably cut all the way but I have never used one.

What vinyl are you trying this with? I have found it to be worth the extra expense to buy Oracal 951 metallic for fine details. Cuts and weeds like a dream.

Welcome from Idaho, both of you.

I hate windows 10. I wonder if it's some sort of cloud thing? Maybe stored offsite and not letting you back at it? I am a Mac guy at the home office where I do my vinyl work but use a windows 10 at my day job and we seem to have to reboot about every 3 days to get the inkjet printer to come back to life. Most annoying.

Bill, do not gloss over Skeeters blade exposed length advice. This is the single most common error in new people and is a bit counterintuitive at first. Does not see like it should matter all that much and practically every new owner does it wrong and has all sorts of trouble. Doing glitter you will have to set the blade specific to that product as it is much thicker than standard vinyl or HTV. Another word of advice, if you have not cut much stuff, glitter is about as hard to deal with as it comes, even for us old timers. I hate glitter. So if you haven't ran your machine on other things enough to know it you will be facing even more uncertainty about what's happening. Set your blade like Skeeter said then you can work into the cut pressure until it gets there. Glitter should have a clear plastic carrier sheet that can handle overcut pressures so if you overdo it a little it probably won't go clear through. Do a small square (like 3/4") to test your settings until you get it cutting cleanly through but not through the back carrier. Run it fairly slow as well. I'd guess somewhere around 80 or 100 mm/sec You can cut thinner stuff faster but speed can cause issues so be careful until you know your machine well. I have a $3500 cutter and only cut about 200 mm/sec most of the time.

Definitely worth trying the dongle once the drivers are loaded. I had the cover on one of mine pull off. Super glued it back on and it's been fine.

Have you tried scaling the image to the size you want before sending it to print? In pixels that will be 900 x 594.

Yeah Brick comes in a few different thicknesses. USCutter used to sell it in the 1000 but I think they just sell 600 now. You can still buy the 1000 direct from Siser (or you could last time I checked). I have a few feet of it in both thicknesses I bought to play around with. It is stiff though and hard to get the heat to the adhesive properly. Stahls is making a new heated lower platen than would do better than a standard press. What that picture shows is probably silicon custom built. It's think and more pliable. I have not seen it for sale as a cut-able product but someone may know more.

Just remember to MIRROR the cut. You are cutting on the adhesive side.

Siser SAYS it can be applied with a hand iron, at least the regular non stretch version. If you it's in a non wear location you might get it to stay. You wouldn't be out much. I would never recommend using Siser on any garment with a hand iron regardless of what they say though.