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Everything posted by Wildgoose

  1. Wildgoose

    Pix Max help

    Agree with both Skeeter and darcshadow. The single biggest mistake we see is the blade exposure setting. Follow Skeeters directions (second paragraph in second post in this thread). Once you have that set properly then you can start to dial in the rest. SignCut Pro is a great cutting interface. If you are having things show up that shouldn't then there is something wrong. I use the original Pro 1 and wouldn't trade for anything. They have free live tech support. Go to the website and enter a support request and they will get with you pretty quickly. On my first cutter I had to have them remote into my computer to figure out what was wrong. Be sure the cutter you chose in SignCut "Cutter" tab is exactly your cutter. SignCut has it's own drivers but your chip (assuming you are using a USB cord) is possibly one of the cheap ones and might need something installed to hook up properly. This would be some sort of installation disc that would have come with your cutter possibly. I'm NOT a technical guru, just making suggestions to check. I also agree with Skeeter on testing with a known pristine file so you KNOW there isn't already a rounded corner. Make a small 1" square in Inkscape and use that so you can see if your blade offset is set right.
  2. Wildgoose

    Mold on Vinyl few days after placement on tshirt.

    Yep that's definitely die migration. Most of Stahls are susceptible to this when light colors are used on dark polyester. Some are built to handle it like the silicone dye sub and the Thermo film.
  3. Wildgoose

    "Show print tiling"

    Are you trying to adjust your art board size? There us a little tool down on the toolset that lets you adjust it easily either by dragging sides or typing in specific size. Shift+O will open that tool up as well if it isn't immediately apparent. If it's actual print issues not dartboard then in the print dialog there will be a box in the General tab that lets you decide what print media size. And below it are the next couple boxes that let you either leave it to scale, scale it, fit to page, Custom scale or tile. The Tile option is constrained by the previous media size settings. On the next page in the print dialog there will be marks and bleed that let you override whatever bleed settings were in the original document set-up. Hope the helps. I actually run CS5 but they are the same for these things I believe.
  4. Wildgoose

    Cutting 3M 2080 vs. 1080

    Are you having difficulty due to the protective film?
  5. Wildgoose

    Vinyl colors

    I bought a bundle of a bunch of 5 yard rolls of the grecnstar. That was in 2010 and I still have most of those colors. I HAVE found that the grecnstar has it's place in the world. I use it for short term work and also it's extra thickness works great as sandblast resist on glass blasting and it comes back off easier than the higher grades. I bought a 48" wide roll of white thinking I would cover plywood signboard which I never even tried because 48" wide anything is murderous to install so I cut it down and have used it for other things. I even covered some kitchen cabinet shelves about 7 years back and it's still in there holding up well. Tough stuff, I never had too much trouble weeding it as long as the work was not detailed,
  6. I just noticed something. In one of your videos it appears that at least one of the lines across or around the job have pouncing or perf cuts. Do you have this set on perf cutting or something? That might be part of the problem. I hate to exasperate a point but you are using the little bombsight to set your blade depth at 2mm which is literally 5 times as much as you need. Heat transfer vinyl is usually at most 3 mil which is 0.076 mm if my conversion is correct. If you do the blade setting by hand as mentioned by Skeeter you will have better luck. I would do the hand setting on a piece of regular 3 calendared vinyl not on heat transfer vinyl. The plastic carrier sheet will trick you on heat transfer vinyl because it is really hard to tell if you are partially penetrating the carrier or not.
  7. Are you still cutting on the Sportfilm from Stahls? I use that on some occasions and it is like you say very stretchy and this may be some of your issues. It takes a very sharp blade and also many people try to cut with too much pressure and the carrier will bunch and flex which causes some of the types of things you are seeing. If you are using a factory Grahtec blade then it will be high quality. If using a cheap chinese made blade they may never cut as good on this kind of material. I would do a test cut with a very small piece like the letter "a" that you posted and try rotating it in different directions to see if the missed spot moves around on the letter or not. If it it always happening at the same spot regardless of which orientation the "a" is in then it is some setting that is off like your blade offset which should be zero on those machines. If it changes and does not happen when the "a" is rotated to a different rotation or has something else wrong elsewhere then it is probably too much pressure or a dull knife tip. You should be able to see the carrier bunching up or flexing if you have too much pressure. If you have to lighten the pressure to keep this from happening and then can't cut all the way through then you have a broken tip (possibly from having too much blade exposed) I have had blades that cut regular vinyl just fine but would not cut stretchy heat press vinyl and it took me a while to figure out what was going on. Even a slightly dulled tip can cause this. Be sure to set the blade depth (exposed blade sticking out of the blade holder) in the manner that Mz Skeeter recommended before you do much of anything else. Too much blade can cause all sorts of issues including broken tips and weird cutting. If the lines do not completely close like inside of those a's you can add a touch of OVER CUT to make the blade travel a little farther before it stops. I would be careful not to overdo this.
  8. Wildgoose

    SignCut Pro pre cut feed

    Sorry for the long delay. My kids had volleyball last night. Here is one of your screen shots and I circled the tool to calibrate your cutter. I have never actually needed to use this so beyond knowing it is there for this purpose thats the extent of my knowledge.
  9. Wildgoose

    Who "owns" designs?

    Agreed, I do this sort of stuff a lot and usually cone to some terms on what will happen to the final designs. I usually provide them to the client for what we decide on up front or like he did I often do them as a free part of the order but they don't get the design unless they pay for it. ALSO even when I sell them their logo that WE designed together I keep copyright and sign over equal copyright to them without releasing my claim to the original design. Like was mentioned I have no reason nor right to go produce their products because it's their business but I may want to use the design as advertising of what I did or pull elements from it or even derivative work for someone else based on the layout or such. Fishbone is not required to HAND OVER anything without fair compensation. The FAIR part may be negotiable or even something that ends up in court but some sort of agreement is in order.
  10. Wildgoose

    SignCut Pro pre cut feed

    SignCut thinks the image is inches wide (approx 101 MM) but it's coming out on your cutter WAY bigger. That would mean you need to calibrate your cutter. OR that you have the wrong drivers but if all the design seems to be correct just the size off I would guess it's a calibration thing. I know there is a spot in there somewhere to calibrate your cutter but I can't remember where it's at and am running off for the night so don't have time to look it up. It could be something as simple as switching your SignCut over to inches rather than MM but that shouldn't matter. SignCut has live tech support that can quickly fix you up rather than trial and error. Go to the website and request support and they will usually get back really quickly.
  11. Wildgoose

    Cutting PDF Help

    Agree with both the previous comments. There are WAY too many layers and several of the elements had stroke which may cause a cutting error may not. I took it apart and put it back together like you would want it in a two layer version. This is what we call a "cut ready" file now. Careful study will show the differences. USA LOGO 2 layer.pdf
  12. Wildgoose

    New to the forum and new to cutting

    I guess if you put THAT much stuff in there it's not going to handle it.
  13. Wildgoose

    New to the forum and new to cutting

    I just use one of the bucket buddy carriers that you strap onto a 5 gal sized bucket. I use mine on a smaller (shorter) bucket because the depth is overkill on a 5 gallon. Has lots of pockets for misc all the way around and large enough for all the heavy goods inside like cleaning solutions and roll of paper towels. I do like the look if that carrier and may look around for one if I decide to make a change. I don't get out much with signage anymore so mine sits in the closet most of the time.
  14. Might make sure your optical eye is clean too. Dust can cause issues.
  15. Wildgoose

    Plotter Software

    I did a little research and while hard to tell for sure I get the impression that the gerber omega software will probably run some other machines. Not sure what vintage your company has but it will be somewhere within the software to have a list of cutters. They don't make a lot of information readily available but I see a couple mentions of ofter cutters so it COULD happen. I would take a minute and look through the menus and/or call Gerber tech support about it.
  16. Wildgoose

    SC2 Bunching vinyl Help!

    I cut a lot of easy weed. The biggest thing I notice is that since the carrier sheet is soft and pliable it can lead to the problem you are experiencing if you don't have a nice sharp blade. Too much pressure can cause it to bunch up. This is a good example of where the CleanCut blades pay off. They need at least 25% less force when cutting. A lot of higher end machines have a row of holes along the edge of the cutting strip and have a vacuum fan running to help hold everything down wile cutting. The budget models usually don't have vacuum hold down and this also contributed to the problem. I recommend burning a little extra when starting as well if you are having this problem. Sometimes it isn't as bad once you are into the roll a couple inches. Expensive stuff to waste though.
  17. Wildgoose

    Plotter Software

    Jburns has Gerber software and could chime in about what other cutters it will run if any. @Jburns
  18. Wildgoose

    SignCut Pro pre cut feed

    Well if you have access to AI it's more robust than Inkscape anyway. I happen to use it myself. It's a steep learning curve but well worth the journey once you get to the top. If you search in the Adobe Illustrator section of the forum there is some good info to help get over the first few hurdles and hopefully making your own files. SignCut Pro 1 actually has a plug-in directly for Illustrator. I personally design on a mac and just offload my design files to a second location via thumb drive so I can have the cutter busy while I work on other things.
  19. Wildgoose

    New to the forum and new to cutting

    Welcome from Idaho. Most fun hobby that is actually capable of making money.
  20. Wildgoose

    SignCut Pro pre cut feed

    What are your plans to design? If you have no other vector programs you might try Inkscape (free) and if so SignCut will cut it's native SVG file as well altho the size may need checked I had some svg files come through mis-sized
  21. Wildgoose

    SignCut Pro pre cut feed

    Any way you can screen shot a view of the computer screen it might help. I use Pro 1 myself so I'm pretty knowledgeable in SignCut. I am attaching a small left chest logo that should load and cut without issues. It's in Adobe v8 which is SIgnCut's favorite format and it's going to be reversed because its for HTV but for what you are doing that won't matter. It should be exactly 4 inches or 101.6 mm wide. If it's not then you need to calibrate your SignCut program. A note about workflow, it's best to design the work in the size you want it rather than resize them on the fly. Over the long haul you will find yourself needing to do additional work and trying to remember the specifics of what size you made things months or even days earlier becomes impossible. I save my files off with specific names that help me know which ones to choose without having to open them and check. I this case it's a stacked LC file meaning it's multiple color for a Left Chest and that also tells me it's reversed for HTV. If it was a 4 inch decal I would have called it 4in rather than LC Ashcraft stacked LC.ai
  22. Wildgoose

    Who is your GOTO for Shirts

    Gotcha covered Dakota
  23. Wildgoose

    SignCut Pro pre cut feed

    Can you test cut the SignCut opening graphic? When you start it up there is usually a graphic there before you load in your own. Pick a color and try one of those. If it works then you have something going on with your file. If that doesn't work then you have something set wrong in SignCut or possibly there is need of a driver. I thought SC had the drivers within it though. Dumb question but have you checked the "Cutter" button and made sure the correct cutter is selected and the correct baud rate etc...?
  24. Wildgoose

    How to add numbers to graphic design

    I have seen custom number sets available similar to what you are talking about slice. They weren't a font just vector designs to make race car numbers etc... To the OP earp4847 if you have design software or even rudimentary cutting software that came with your cutter you should be able to create your own numbers. If you don't have it try Inkscape, it's free vector design and capable of all sorts of fun stuff. There are tutorials on youtube so you can learn the ropes.
  25. I just take the job and decide what it's worth to me. So for instance say someone wanted 10 small decals that were 4 inches square but in a color or product that I don't stock. Say I spent $10 on a yard some premium vinyl so it would cut nice. and another $10 for shipping then I know the minimum material COST is going to be $2 each even though the 10 decals will only take up a third of the yard at most. Then I decide how much my time and equipment is worth. Say we be conservative and say $50 per hour shop rate and the job should take a half hour. So there is another $2.50 per each bringing the cost total to $4.50 plus 20% margin puts them at $5.40 per each plus sales tax depending on your locale. $54 plus tax and probably not worth the time it takes to do it. I didn't even add in for app tape and the half hour to do it is a nice thought but that kind of stuff can take twice that long real fast. Now you can see why me and some of the others on the forum just shake our heads at the idiots on pinterest that think they're gong to make their millions on stuff like that for $0.50 or a dollar each. Different story if you are doing 300 pieces. Then you can both cut your costs down and the price per each down and actually make a buck. The best part of this kind of job is when you suffer through it because you are trying to build clients and then they come back and want more. How many? they say 30 this time. You say ok. They don't ask for a new price so you bust out 30 out of the extra vinyl you bought and all in almost the same time you did the 10 and you get full price with no costs. That happens too so don't get discouraged. But the ones that say "so and so is selling them for half that" then I just shrug and say I have no idea how they can afford to, have a nice day. About half the time they still have me do them. Actually I have all but quit regular adhesive vinyl because the market is too tight and there are too many soccer moms with cricut cutters doing them for nothing. I mostly do t-shirts. Everyone wants a t-shirt and you get to make a little off the shirt AND the vinyl.