Wildgoose

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Everything posted by Wildgoose

  1. Wildgoose

    Buyer beware

    I though you was saying Banned Hemp tape. I know how you guys from Florida are....
  2. Wildgoose

    Lynx PII60

    Should work if you can get the hook up figured out. Not sure if you will need a specific format for the file though. Possibly would need to be a dxf. That's just a guess. They will look old school. I drew a welcome home banner on a really big piece of paper in a cool font and then my kids colored within the lines and it turned out awesome. I just did a regular cut file though. Have you tried opening the CAD file in your software so you can see if that part at least works? I'm sure there is a way to get the two talking to each other.
  3. Wildgoose

    In need of printed decals

    Check with "Jburns" on the forum. I had him make me some white on clear decals with his thermal printer and they turned out great.
  4. Wildgoose

    SVG/ Logo Issue

    If you are running on Linux that's still pretty amazing. Heck I run on mac and am almost a rarity.
  5. Wildgoose

    SVG/ Logo Issue

    Yeah we're way off topic but it's an interesting conversation. I guess the things I'm talking about are things like cut by color and nesting objects when cutting multiple objects for vinyl consumption control, weeding boxes on multiple copies, tiling overlaps and weeding lines etc.... In SC Pro you can select an object or a part of an object and change the color and just cut that item out like if you blew the install and had to recut a part to repair but not the whole thing. Not that I EVER mess up mind you but theoretically There are just a lot of creature comforts that make short work of some of those things especially helpful when mass producing.
  6. Wildgoose

    SVG/ Logo Issue

    I don't think I would want to give up all the creature comforts of my cutting software of choice (SignCut Pro 1) Just too easy ha ha!
  7. Wildgoose

    Need help with pricing

    I am not willing to quote your work for you but I would decide where you are going to source your plastisol transfers and use the pricing they provide as a starting point. Add your shirt value and any mark-up you want to those two and then decide how much you want to charge for your time and equipment. I try to get at least a couple bucks per press cycle on small volumes like you will be having on those. Biggest thing with transfers are figuring out how many to order, and generally the more you order the more cost effective they become. Every time I do a small order invariably several more parents see them and want one too. I usually buy several more than needed (like a dozen or even more sometimes) and spread the cost out over the whole original order, then when grandma and the two crazy cousins want one you get to charge full price on transfers that are already paid for and if no one does then you aren't out anything.
  8. Wildgoose

    SVG/ Logo Issue

    The one I uploaded in my first response names DIY REV should be ready to cut. I got rid of all that other stuff and removed any duplicate items. Some of the weirdness very possibly came through some of the conversions to other file types. For those interested I am pretty sure SCALP works natively with vector letters without the need to convert them. I used to have a beta version of it and that was one thing I remember about it. pawdell - Tux Plot is way off the grid man. That's a Linux compatible program if I remember correctly. I don't know that I have ever even heard it referenced here.
  9. Wildgoose

    SVG/ Logo Issue

    Your svg was a real mess. Attached is a screen shot of it in wireframe mode in Adobe Illustrator. You had a white box over the makers like you figured but needed to use it to knock out the middle section of the saw blade. The blade then needed welded to the two lines that they touch. There were some multiple objects in there so some of the letters would have cut twice. I have no idea what all the other stuff is that is out there on the lower right side. Could be some sort of glitch or something you were working on and forgot or tried to turn off on some other layer. (the layer thing won't work with a cutter btw) I cleaned the svg up for you so you can cut it but you might want to spend some time learning your program. Not sure where you converted your file from as far as where you actually designed it. It's a part of cutting that takes some patience and practice. Don't feel bad about it because we were all there at some point in history. DIY REV.svg
  10. Wildgoose

    Wrinkled HTV after first test wash

    Could be DTG print (direct to garment) as well.
  11. Wildgoose

    Wrinkled HTV after first test wash

    That looks about normal for regular HTV. If you use a stretchy version like US Cutters Easyweed Stretch it will help with the wrinkles. Easyweed is also a little thinner than some other brands and has a better hand. (feel)
  12. Wildgoose

    Help With grand daughter drawing for contest

    Cool cat. What is the end use planned for the design?
  13. Wildgoose

    Help Vectorizing

    I don't know, I do a lot of shirts and often use the shirt color in the design if it's going to avoid another layer (and color). I always talk this over with the client though so they don't have any issues. I try to keep as much "open" shirt as possible to help it breathe better. A small LC is irrelevant but on a full width it can get to be too much and feel bad and be a sweaty spot.
  14. Wildgoose

    Happy to join!

    Hello and welcome from Idaho
  15. Wildgoose

    Easyweed vs. Easyweed Stretch

    Yes Stretch is great for everything that regular is and more. Costs a little bit more but worth it IMO. Not as many colors and if you happen to leave the inside of a letter when weeding you can usually heat and pluck regular but not stretch or not as easy. This is especially true on polyester. Other benefits of Stretch are that is doesn't show wrinkles nearly as much. Some HTV benefits from being regular such as gold or silver on garments that have a heavy weave the regular will end up with a cool look from the weave that gives it almost a reflective quality that stretch does not produce. Gold and Silver regular have a shiny look and the stretch variant not as shiny.
  16. Wildgoose

    Origin Point Just Don't Understand Please Explain

    I too am not a SCALP fan or very knowledgeable about how it works. It is possible that after you did your test cuts that the program reset the origin point so that you didn't accidentally cut over the top of the reg marks again. My cutter does this internally, your software may have. On your other comments I recommend you search MZ SKEETER for a one of her many posts on setting your blade depth. Most new owners misunderstand the whole blade depth vs cutting downforce thing and cause themselves issues. Set the actual blade depth sticking out of the holder by hand with the blade holder out of the machine. THEN you can start to play with your cutting pressure to test the correct value to just cut through the vinyl.
  17. Wildgoose

    summa D60 - any good?

    Angie I saw that machine on CL and wondered if they got it sold. I am the mod mentioned and actually here in your area and run a newer Summa. That machine is pretty old but as long as it's been taken care of should be a good option especially at what you paid for it. I recommend trying out the free Signblazer if you're on a super tight budget and don't already have design skills. I run a mac and so use SignCut Pro in combination with Adobe Illustrator but both of those are paid programs.
  18. Wildgoose

    Heat foam for hat press

    Hats are fickle. I mostly use my "kids" platen as I have stated before which is called the Allstar now. It's only 2-3/4" tall so the designs have to be no more than about 2-1/2" and I try to maintain more like 2" to 2-1/4" just for easier placement. The foam hats look like they have room for taller platen. The standard platen is 3-1/2" and that seems to be just a little too tall to allow the crown to settle down on most of the hats I sell or at least the smaller one is a LOT easier to get them to lay flat. The extra platens are pretty pricey and I think you have to go directly to the stahls website to get them. AND they aren't cheap. For me the secret is the smaller designs and choosing hats that fit my press better (and steering my customers to those styles of hat). Never tried a pillow on there and I don't see how it would be very productive to try and get it all stuffed in there and settled down. I just pre press them and then vigorously stretch the hat so it lays as flat as I can get it to the lower platen. Some edges tend to roll off and as long as your design doesn't lay over the edges that won't hurt anything. Having the print loaded hold down is really nice and I would hate to try and get a consistent job without it.
  19. It BECOMES easy. In a year or two you will look back and wonder why it seemed so complicated. I'm an Adobe Illustrator guy and when I first started learning the program I thought I would never figure it out. Now it's second nature and I use it for all kinds of other things too. I am a construction manager by trade (vinyl and shirts is a side thing) and I do technical drawings and make annotations on pdf drawings and make cool presentations for my kids for school or nice personalized cards for birthdays etc... Enjoy the journey.
  20. On a designers note most of us experienced builders just don't trace out text unless we have exhausted every other possibility. It's faster to at least find a similar font and make modifications on that one than to trace things out. If it's one to 4 or 5 letters then I might just to get done and move on but those font designers spend a LOT of time perfecting all the little radius and corner angles and it's a lot of work to get it to look good. Like mfatty500 said every vector program on the planet that I am aware of either operates with the text already converted to outlines or has the needed feature to convert the font to a vector outline built in. SOME fonts look good when small but are actually not so awesome when you get up close and personal. The messier fonts will cause some issues when you get into doing path offsets, outlines or shadows or whatever your program calls them. You will know it when you see a really strange outline and most of the time it's a bad spot on the base font design. I really enjoy the design side of the business. Some struggle but practice makes perfect and it's a handy skill to have and a necessary one in the cutting world.
  21. Wildgoose

    Stahls Cap Press

    I could see that happening yep. For other work like plastisol transfers and HTV the auto open is awesome on the hat press. Dye-Sub you may have to be ready to catch the handle so it doesn't jump too fast.
  22. Wildgoose

    Heat foam for hat press

    For the sublimation work I would make the print so that there was enough open area on each side and probably above the crown that the edges of the paper won't create a crease and the tape can be applied so it isn't even under the heat. Just a longer strip if that makes sense. It will waste a little sublimation paper but in that scenario that is what I would do. I never tried to sublimate a hat but other than the problem you are finding the sub job looks awesome. One thing I do on most of my hats is as soon as I put a pre-press to it for a few seconds I then lift the heat and work the hat to stretch it a little and make it conform to the platen a little better so it doesn't get the creases. I have never pressed on a foamy so they may not conform but most regular structured hats will.
  23. Oracal 651 is known to be a little problematic from time to time in this one regard. It seems to have a good hold on the carrier. The upside is that that hold is also what helps it weed good for a calendared vinyl. The best cure I have found is just before install run it over a sharp edged table app tape side down so that the sharp angle on the table or bench will help break the vinyl loose from the carrier. Then lay the vinyl face down on the app tape side and peel the backing up and away from the vinyl. I have best luck if I can get a slight roll action going on the carrier sheet and it will sort of snap or pop up off the vinyl. Not all rolls of 651 fight as bad as some others. 751 and 951 do not have this issue. I also like to use R-Tape 4076RLA. It is slightly higher tack than 4075.
  24. Wildgoose

    Need Help to find correct Font on this Boat

    Dakota is killin' it today.
  25. That's an interesting question. When I had my P-Cut budget cutter it said to never leave the rollers up. When I got my High end cutter it said to never leave the rollers down. LOL. I just do what the cutter manual says. The reason the cheap cutter said to always lower them was to keep from compressing the springs for long periods and weakening them. The reason the high end machine says leave them up is because it will create flat spots on the pinch rollers and lead to tracking inaccuracy. Maybe the higher end machine has better quality springs, I have never had to replace the pinch rollers and I've now had this thing for 6 years. I try to keep my vinyl inside a plastic liner so I tend to remove it and store it. If it's some HTV that I am using pretty often I may leave it on the machine but not under the rollers. Each to his own.