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Everything posted by Wildgoose

  1. I design on a mac and have mac compatible software (SignCut Pro1, which is strictly a cutter interface) but most of the time take my designs over to a cheap windows laptop and cut with that. More to do with keeping my design workstation unfettered than anything to do with the OS platform. I design in Adobe Illustrator as many mac users who cut do. The Graphtec FC series are going to be a much better option than the Roland. They are built for higher cutting pressures. Another option might be a Summa T series tangential cutter. They actually steer the blade around the corners rather than dragging the castor style blades all the drag knife regular cutters do. Using the higher downforce when cutting is going to translate into a lot more working force on all the components and that is why none of us want to use our pricey fine cutting machines to hack away at thick magnetic. At least the high end machines like the FC and the T Series Summa are built to take the abuse although it still makes me shudder to think of doing that to one. I have been wanting to step up to a tangential Summa machine (currently running a SummaCut drag knife) but not for the increased cutting power more for the increased accuracy that is supposed to be the case. I really just have this little devil that sits on my shoulder making me think I need one. I think if I were you and were considering spending the kind of dough that it's going to take for one of these high end cutters I would take a nice sized sample and go find a test machine and see if they can cut it like you want. Graphtec should be easy to find a dealer or a user somewhere near you, they are the most widely used name brand machines in the states. You will just have to find someone who cuts with the FC series. You might check with some of the sandblast people in your area. The local salesperson for Graphtec in my area has a couple clients that use the FC's for cutting blast resist which would be very similar to your magnetic. I almost bought an FC from her when I was upgrading.
  2. Any of you guys who run the lasers think you could cut with a laser? To klcjr - Magnets as mentioned are really hard to cut and hard on a fine tuned machine. Getting your cutter to cut accurately would be the very first thing you would need to do and you would want to start out by cutting some cheap sign vinyl which it's actually designed to cut. IF it's cutting regular vinyl at regular pressures ok but not the magnet then you will have an answer about whether your cutter has a problem or if it's related to the 30 mil issue. Assuming that it ALSO cuts out of dimensions then you will need to calibrate your cutter. Each cutting program goes about it a little different but they pretty much all have a way. If it's cutting sign vinyl at the correct size but not the magnet then you are probably not going to have success. The heavy magnetic material is likely more weight than your pinch rollers can keep hold of properly especially if you are dragging a knife blade through it. I have cut a few, and I stress FEW, like two times with my Summa. I did three passes at a regular pressure and it did ok. You also have a whole other part of the equation that you are probably not considering. You can't cut clear through any material without having some sort of carrier sheet. Vinyl and Heat Transfer Vinyl come on a carrier sheet. I seriously doubt your magnet does. I recommend if you keep trying and get it to cut satisfactory that you should leave just a little bit so the magnet is still one piece and then you can break it free. That's what I did on the couple that I cut. This will work for an occasional project but mass production is probably not all that viable. The big factories use a true die cutter and stamp cut them out I think. Very mass production.
  3. Wildgoose

    Signcut pro 2 configuration with MH365

    Here is a list of compatible cutters. http://www.signcutpro.com/files/pdf/driverlist20130410.pdf If for some reason you can't find it SignCut has actual tech support accessible from their website. I use the older version Pro 1. Signcut kicks butt
  4. Wildgoose

    weird values

    Do you have your drivers for the cutter to try reinstalling?
  5. Wildgoose

    weird values

    I have not seen anything like that. Have you created a ticket with tech support at Signcut? They have fantastic live tech support. It's been a while since I needed any help but if I remember correctly you request help from a portal on their website and they will contact you by email and if that isn't getting it done they step it up to a live person. I had an issue years back and they ended up doing some remote work on my computer to get me going.
  6. Wildgoose

    Another newby to the forum

    Hello and welcome from Idaho.
  7. Wildgoose

    Strange usage question.

    Window glass (vehicular) is pretty gnarly stuff I bet it wouldn't break.
  8. Wildgoose

    Who did this one

    Ha ha ha. I would totally eat at a vendor like that! The venmo thing cracks me up. We have a sandwich shop here locally that the guy gives practically everyone who comes through the door crap about something. He's loved by all and makes an awesome sandwich.
  9. Wildgoose

    US Cutter costumer service

    Wow what a pain. I must be extra lucky because I have rarely had issues. I only bought one budget press and one budget cutter though before upgrading to name brand units. The press worked fine other than the display temp was in some other world, not close to either Celsius or F. I just took an IR thermometer and tested it and wrote down what temp represented what and taped it to the side of the display. I wore it out in about 2.5 years of decent labor. I jumped into a Hotronix Fusion after that and have been cranking out hundreds of times the volume for close to 6 years now without a whimper. I kind of wonder if the quality of the Chinese imports is sliding downhill lately. Or at least the quality CONTROL of the Chinese imports has been less effective.
  10. Wildgoose

    Vinyl won't come off transfer tape

    Old post but since it's come back to life I tend to think one or two things going on. How long has the graphic been taped and prepped could cause this. Old designs can be seriously stuck to the app tape. Improper prep maybe a finger print right there causing the vinyl to not adhere well. Or older vinyl or multiple layered that was pulled off the backing and transferred to a second layer that may have caught a little grime or something. Had that happen myself. Personally I have been going to higher tack rather than less just because I hate nothing more than being on a ladder or in a wind storm and having the vinyl stay stuck on the carrier. Always seems to be those long jobs when no one is around to help you too. I also have slowed down on my sign vinyl to the point that my app tape sets too long on the roll and dries out so the higher tack ends up being viable longer for me. Sometimes I have to burn a couple wraps on the roll to get rid of some and find fresh paper. This is just one mans opinion. Your results may vary.
  11. Wildgoose

    Best place to get materials

    For the posts and beams I have always had to build them from fence parts. I don't do those things very often but mine were painted wood with routered slots for the diabond or signboard panel. I'm sure it could be done with the pvc too although I never feel like the pvc is very sturdy.
  12. Wildgoose

    Do we really need a clear vinyl film over the decals

    Agreed with the others. Regular sign vinyl is pretty impervious to all the elements. It would probably create more problems than it would help. Trapped air at the edges of the inside layers will be visible and almost unavoidable.
  13. Wildgoose

    Distressed Flag for Vista Roof

    Good quality app tape is a must have. I also use high quality (PG Grade) masking tape to hold my work and hinge with. It costs about 3 times as much but it holds SO much better and comes off cleaner, I wouldn't go any other way after using it.
  14. Wildgoose

    Do we really need a clear vinyl film over the decals

    I don't print stuff but I think it's UV laminate that you want to use not just clear vinyl. I think Skeeter or someone has a pic of a print that has UV on one half and not the other that shows there IS some benefit to UV protection. Frog Juice is also supposed to help.
  15. Wildgoose

    Race Car job

    I recommend starting with a straight up number font if you want to lean them each toward the back. Italic or other leaning fonts look weird when you force them to try and go the other way.
  16. Wildgoose

    3ft X 8ft Banner Price

    I answered on the other one too but I charge $5 per square foot of the banner. $120 for that one but throw in the artwork at no charge. <edit> $5 per color, however if the second color only covers part of the design like the top 12" of something I usually account for that as well and just charge the price for the actual square foot of that second color. First color is considered the whole size of the banner in my playbook.
  17. Wildgoose

    Tips for installing vinyl on vinyl banner

    I typically like to get $5 per square foot per color. Single color like that $120. I throw in the art work for free though.
  18. Wildgoose

    Glow in the dark self-adhesive printable vinyl?

    Just from your question I have questions back. Do you have a printer capable of printing on vinyl? A basic home variety of printer will not get it done. There are a few printable vinyl options (not glow in the dark) out there but they are not the same as a REAL printed graphic. Second if you DO have the right printer, wherever you print on any glow in the dark is NOT also going to glow in the dark. Someone somewhere may make a printer capable of using glow in the dark inks but I have never heard of one. I don't own a printer myself because they cost SO much to own and operate that I just can't justify it. I would think most Solvent, Eco-Solvent, Thermal and probably some of the new water based latex printers would be capable of laying down ink on glow-in the dark vinyl. You will just see a dark spot though when the lights go out and it will glow around the edges (assuming you leave some exposed nonprinted areas)
  19. I am not versed in Graphtec Studio Pro but there should be an option to do what you are wanting. It will begin by selecting both images then there will be a function such as "knock out, punch, punch out, minus front" or similar. You are not actually wanting to weld rather that the dog gets removed from the K. I can see that if you left the dog in place without the knock out it will overlap the 9 which would cause you to cut the 9 separately or have it get messed up.
  20. Wildgoose

    cutting reusable stencils

    Reusable stencils can be cut on a cutting mat like a Cricut mat. I have better luck using a piece of clear app tape as a carrier sheet. More flexible and easier to remove the stencil once it's cut IMO. You will have to find some stencil material as well. I have been using old clear backing of some of my locally bought 3M 225 class vinyl for the few I build. There are other things that will work, maybe Vellum or plastic sheeting. Most require heavy cutting pressure or multiple cuts to get through it.
  21. Wildgoose


    I would add that if you do it manually you will want to add a little bit of overlap, about 1/4" is usually sufficient. This will keep it all together rather than ending up with a gap there when things shrink and expand. I am pretty sure that VM will allow you to set the overlap and do it as part of the automatic tiling feature which saves a lot of hassle.
  22. Wildgoose

    Worst. Customer. Support. Ever.

    I totally agree with what Dakota is saying. The seller misrepresented who he actually was by using the USCutter image. I think the support people should have disclosed what the issue was rather than to say they could not comment on it. That was dumb IMO. Whatever. Bottom line is the seller is your recourse and fortunately for you eBay is tough on sellers so they will probably go to bat for you IF you are within the time limits of whatever the seller listed. IF not then that going to be a problem that you may not win. (even though you thought you were going to the correct place that first time, not anyones job to figure that out for you) The only other good thing that can come from this is that you bought about the cheapest (in all senses one the word) vinyl cutter that was ever produced by man so you're not out much. We regularly try to steer people to buy a better unit. Those MH's are sort of the door buster deals and they are hard to get to work good (not impossible) and problematic in many ways. I think they probably lead to a lot of additional upgrade sales later because cutters have to be one of the coolest hobbies on the planet. All this is just one mans opinion.
  23. Wildgoose

    Tips for installing vinyl on vinyl banner

    I use bungie straps to stretch the banner tight across a table. Piece of cake at that point.
  24. Wildgoose

    First Video I've made

    Great install and vid both. Breeze makes things a little interesting sometimes. I use the 4076 too although I do very few sign vinyl/installs these days.
  25. Wildgoose

    New to vinyl. Just got a fc 7000 75

    I think you may be confusing blade depth and cutting depth/pressure. You want your blade holder almost touching the surface of the vinyl when you are cutting and the tip at that moment just scratching the carrier sheet/backing so that you cannot feel the scratch from the back side. Mz Skeeter has posted how to set this blade exposure by hand several thousand times on the forum so I won't elaborate on that. Once the blade depth is set THEN you work into the cut depth on the actual vinyl by adjusting the cutting pressure (in grams) until it gets to that point where the blade is actually cutting all the way to the paper carrier. Many new people think there is a correlation to how deep into the vinyl the machine will cut and the amount of blade sticking out of the holder which is the wrong way to look at it. I have seen many people try to adjust how deep the blade cuts by turning the adjustment so that more blade sticks out of the holder which is wrong. Too much blade protruding from the holder causes more inaccuracy than you can imagine; it doesn't seem like it would make that much difference but it definitely does. I don't think this issue is what's causing you trouble but as I read through your thread it seems like that point may have gotten glossed over.