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Wildgoose last won the day on August 23

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  1. I'd say a huge success for your experience level. Good job! Those adhesive cutting carrier sheets can be a little wonky when they are out on the ends. If you are going to do this a lot and have the space I would consider some sort of table on one or both sides to help support the carrier while it's working. Think table saw (although not necessarily exactly up at the roller level. Even just setting the cutter on a table may be enough to help with the drooping carrier. I occasionally use a stiff carrier I picked up at Walmart to cut up some craft items for you wife or kids and have seen what can happen when you are out near the start or end of them. Mine are extra stiff, some of those you can find ore more forgiving. I have also made my own carrier when cutting stencils from card stock by just covering the back with a couple layers of transfer paper (even better with some clear transfer but paper seems to work fine) if you have any laying around.
  2. Wildgoose

    HTV on Polyster Cotton Blend shirt

    Not sure what brand go HTV you are planning to use. I assume that you'll use Siser because they claim to be home iron friendly. The HTV won't care what fabric unless its Nylon. If its a tri-blend you would be best going with Siser Stretch but they now have 320 as an application temp instead of 305 which you probably can't get up to with an iron. Read the application data on whatever brand you end up with because they are often a little different brand to brand and even type to type within brands. The elephant in the room is the hand iron. If this is a one off for you or your kids that's one thing but you will never get a good application that way. Consider purchasing an actual heat press. Even the very bottom of the barrel choice is WORLDS above a hand iron.
  3. Wildgoose

    Printer conversion

    I would print every day. I don't think it has to be a whole lot but run a nozzle check so every nozzle get s squirt. I did for quite a while and then forgot to an soon had a plugged head. At one point I tried to set up a program on my mac that would strt up and print every day like the solvent/ecosolvent printers do but I had limited success with that. I was able to go on trips and come back several days later and not have any issues though, BUT the sublimation ink seems to have fairly high amount of solids floating. The main problem with the Epson is that the actual print head part stays in the machine and you just change out the cartridge of ink. (that is part of why the ink cost less) Most inkjets have the pintehead as part of the ink container so you ger a new print head every time you change ink. They are a real PIA once they get plugged. I was succesful on clearing one plugged machine but my other one ended up in a dumpster. The WF7710 was what I was using at the time I think I had only paid a couple hundred for and I did a sublimated set of jersesy for a softball team so it had paid for itself on one job. Things may have changed since then, I haven't followed prices or the latest printer tech. I have gotten so busy with tee shirts that I stopped taking on a lot of the peropheral things. I DO miss playing aorund with trinkets like dog tags and key chains etc...
  4. Wildgoose

    Weeding stars from American flag

    I have a client that likes the flag on a shoulder. I just flipped it around so the stars stay and I weed off the background and it's easy. IF they insist on the other way I up-charge for the weed time. Honestly if there are a bunch I end up doing a plastisol transfer these days but sometimes that takes too long to get the job done.
  5. Wildgoose

    trying to convert this to cut

    I would give you a tip if you are needing to keep the overall layout the same as that pic (not neccessarliy the case) 1.Import the image into your sofware 2.Resize it if neccessary to be in or near a certain scale. (this may cause issues with pixelation of the image so you may need to resize after vectoring) 3.Reduce the opacity to 50% or 60%. (this will aid in visibility as you do the next steps) 4.Lock the image so you don't accidentally get hold of it while working. 5.Design ON TOP of this image so you can type out things and preserve the original appearance. Even if you can't match the exact font, often that is not super critical to clients. You can hand trace a simple object like that truck in a few minutes once you get used to your software and the texts can all be typed out like has been mentioned. Once you type your text you can adjust kearning and spacing and stretch thiings around to get the layout to match up to the inderlying image and recreate it to near perfection. These steps are a good workflow to consider for most jobs. I also save a "working copy" prior to converting fonts over to outlines so that if I need to modify something later or if I mis-spelled a word I can easily make changes at some future time. (this happens more than you woud expect) Then I save a cut ready file and remove all the background stuff and convert all the text over to objects (outines) so it's a cut-ready file. If it's HTV tee shirt work I mirror it all at this time too.
  6. Wildgoose

    Iron on vinyl

    Second plug to remember that you are cutting on the adhesive side so all designs need to be mirrored. (in case you missed or glossed over that). I once forgot to mirror and made around 100 copes of a left chest logo that were all backwards. I now save my files already mirrored so I have to un-mirror them if I am cutting on regular sign vinyl.
  7. Wildgoose

    Some work I have done.

    Awesome pulling tractor Pop. They do a little of that in my area. (Idaho)
  8. Wildgoose

    Printer conversion

    I don't know much about the Ricoh printers but I used to run an Epson WF and went back and forth from sublimation to regular ink several times without any issue. If Ricoh uses regular ink (not gel) the sublimation ink seemed rather watery and was not hard to flush out when going back and forth.
  9. Wildgoose

    Cutting Stencils with xacto blade

    Yeah I guess there is. Still... you are selling your time. When I upgraded to my Summa I sold off my old P-Cut to some people who ran a Halloween scare house and they had been hand cutting vinyl graphics for doors, walls and windows. When they got the cutter working they were like kids at Christmas with wonder and amazement at the details and speed that even that very low budget machine could produce. The guy told me he spent a couple hours on each decal he had done before and the P-Cut was cutting them in under a minute start to finish.
  10. I have a junk bin that I throw it into but rarely pull any out for anything very constructive. It makes decent tape and we do a lot of t-shirt press work which leaves a lot of lint around the workspace and I use the scraps as a sort of lint roller/tape and wipe up the lint from my press and work table.
  11. Wildgoose

    Installing on a split window.

    I don't do much window work anymore but the few times I have had a situation like this I removed the peice completely that would have been where the frame is. I wouldnlt try and put the little bit on the frame and definitly not wrap the design up the side and over that frame. The human eye will ignore the missing part perfectly and almost no one will even notice. You will of course, but that's also typical, the installer is the worst critic.
  12. Wildgoose

    Problems axis x ...y

    I think it's either a tracking issue or some sort of x/y calibration issue. I wouldn't even know how to dial that in on a MH cutter. As to the double cutting/drawing, take a look in outline mode. If you are having this issue with text it is because the cutter/plotter is designed to cut vinyl and the text litterally has an outline rather than being a single line so the cutter is tracing the outside of each letter so it does in fact have two lines. In the case of vinyl work the end result is a letter that is left after removing the excess unused vinyl (weeding) and you see a letter. In your case you get an outline around the edge of the letter as traced with the pen. Your plotter/cutter is capable of just doing a single line but the software you are using may not be capable of producing DRAFT like effects due to it being designed for vinyl cutting rather than plotting out a scaled drawing.
  13. You are going to have to determine which program has the issue. Upload a simple AI file with something like a square or rectangle and I'll open it and see what it transfers over. I have been moving and doing a remodel/addition so I'm in and out of the forum lately but I'll try to pay attention. lol There is a quick key on the tools menu that lets you drag the art board to any size you like. AI DOES have a max size of 227 inches (I think) Also some info. What file type are you exporting as? Some programs need specific file types or versions. I am unfamiliar with Cutstudio so can't help with that program but I use AI religiously. I use SignCut Pro 1 and it likes to have older Version 8 Adobe files. It will accept other types but they often come through out of scale like you are talking about. SVG are smaller files and I tried to convert over and start using them but they were inconsistent in size so I quit using them.
  14. You can put it on a cutting mat and cut through. If you don't have something to act as a carrier sheet then it will all come apart in the middle of the cut and have a big mess. The CE6000 MIGHT have the KISS CUT or PERF CUT option that bounces up and down creating a perforated edge but I don't run Graphtec so I am not sure. My Summa will do that for printed work. It is hard on cutting strips but may be worth the trouble for mass sales of peel and stick type work.
  15. One trick I was told from my SummaCut tech support is to get down at eye level when the cutter is running and be sure you can see a very slight air gap between the blade holder and the actual vinyl. If the blade holder is dragging on the vinyl when cutting you would need a slight adjustment but if it's got some gap and you are cutting through then you are set correctly. I still question the blade tip. That is a LOT of pressure. Could be that your machine doesn't read accurate gr of pressure but if the very tip has broken or been rounded off it will do similar. I have found that a few times when cutting HTV which is a bit more demanding on blades. If the tip was not pristine I start having issues with needing more pressure and I usually save those blades for use when I need to cut something nasty like glitter. Still useable but not pristine.