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Wildgoose last won the day on February 16

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  1. Wildgoose


    What equipment and software are you working with?
  2. Wildgoose

    Getting more than outline cut

    I would do similar to darcshadow and reintroduce the original dog shape (just the outline). Maybe offset the line a pen width outside the original edge so you don't kill the negative space you have so laboriously created. Then you can use the same line (or a copy paste of it) to crop out all the outer lines.
  3. Wildgoose

    Applying vinyl graphics to car with ceramic coating

    I suggest contacting tech support with Oracal/Orafol. If you can get a real person to talk to they will give you some good tips and probably give you a difinitive answer. I called them about their HT55 Oratape tranfer paper for matt finish indoor vinyl and they were very helpful and gave me all sorts of interesting data that helped me better understand how that particular product perfomed. This is just a users forum and MAYBE some here have done some applications but you are getting someones opinion and their take vs a manufacturer who knows for sure whether your going to have complications or not. With cermaic coatings having entered the norm (we bought a new Hyundia and that was an option from the dealer) I guarantee they have gotten out ahead of this already.
  4. Wildgoose

    Rotatrim vs. Dahle (vs. Manual) input please

    Looks awesome! I don't do enough of that kind of thing to warrant a cutter like that but I am a tool addict and my secret self is envious. Every time I DO pick up a high volume decal job I always wish I at least had a big enough trimmer to handle larger sheets.
  5. Wildgoose

    travel lines that cut

    The screen shot is NOT adobe Illustrator. Whatever you are seeing there is being inserted by the Cricut interface. I would assume it is somehow sending some interface instructions meant for your cutter that are transposing as cut line? Just a guess... I would suggest trying a newer or older version of your saved AI file or even change the file type from AI to SVG or EPS or whatever the Cricut program likes. My cutter interface prefers Adobe Illustrator version 8 which is a much simplified legacy version. There are a LOT of extra "doodads" especially in the CC version of AI that may be complicating your file.
  6. I was online ordering some HTV and needed to replenish my sign vinyl in black. I noticed that USCutter is carrying some of the RapidAir Technology variant and decided to give it a go. I don't have a job for this yet but black stuff comes along fairly often. I will return and do a product evaluation as soon as I get a job for this.
  7. Wildgoose

    Help Please….

    I am not a SCALP user either but I suggest saving a working file to the side or whole other file when practicing so if it goes badly you can quickly revert to the original starting place. I would also consider saving your work in a non-proprietary file type. Seems like SCALP can export or save as SVG or EPS or similar. If you ever need to send one to another person or change design programs you will be glad you did. I had a beta version of SCALP way back but just didn't ever fall in love with it. I am an Adobe Illustrator design guy but was attempting to use SCALP as my cutter interface because I run on Mac computers for the most part. They (SCALP) have made progress in their capability since those early days and there are some on here who know the idiosyncrasies and tricks to get it to perform fine. I wouldn't want you to think I was disrespecting them.
  8. Wildgoose

    Application Bubbles

    Paper tape is better IMO. I know you can't see through it to layer but overall application success is better. That's a large graphic so there will probably end up having some bubbles trying to get it stacked prior to application and then potentially along the edges where the two layers meet there often ends up a small line or rill of bubbles following that edge. If you have a simple application surface like a sign you can just install it in two layers but some things like race car bodies make that really hard to do. Good squeegee control is the key to reduce bubbles. Again, that is hard to employ when layering pre-install but still relevant. Search videos of actual pro's doing it, they make it look easy but there is a lot of skill you don't see if you aren't watching closely. You can use a pin to puncture and then deflate bubbles but if there are a lot it turns into a lot of work. If this is for a client it looks unprofessional. If it's for your own use the small bubbles will often disappear over time. My first big job was on my own suburban window and one side had a whole bunch of tiny bubbles because I sucked at the squeegee. A few weeks later they were gone from the heat and cool of day to night expansion and contraction. In my early days I had a few go a little rough. I made an excuse and told them if they didn't go away in 30 or so days I would replace the logo. They never needed to but I don't think I came across as a very experienced installer. I watched a lot and read articles about proper installation and things got better with time and practice.
  9. A common misconception with new cutter owners is that the blade cutting depth is somehow related to the exposed length of the blade sticking out of the blade holder. Follow Skeeter's directions on setting the proper amount of blade exposed and then you adjust the actual depth of cut into the vinyl by the down force applied to the holder. The blade exposed should be only slightly farther than the thickness of the vinyl and not at any time far enough that it could cut all the way through the vinyl and carrier sheet. It's not much and most people have far far too much exposed. She suggests removing the blade holder altogether and drag it across a scrap piece by hand to verify that it can't quite cut all the way through. (Use a cutting mat beneath in case you do so you don't break a tip). I would also be sure your blade is fresh and not either broken or worn down. For many people when they aren't able to cut deep enough they think they need to crank the blade out of the holder farther and this is exactly wrong.
  10. Wildgoose

    Clear Transfer Tape

    Another tip I would give is use some parchment paper (or even better if you happen to have any Gerber 225 vinyl it has a clear carrier that is totally amazing for layering) I submitted a video a few years back using parchment paper:
  11. Wildgoose

    Newbie here

    Welcome from Idaho. Great fun to own a cutter as I'm sure you are finding out. Takes a bit of learning but it's worth the effort.
  12. Wildgoose

    Central Perk decals

    I would add that the logo is copyright protected so be sure to get permission to use that and not get yourelf into trouble.
  13. Wildgoose


    I do a lot of shirt work. Rarely have I ever had anything like a stain guard on regular tee's but there is always that posibility. The 150C is a bit on the low side by most standards. Siser regular easyweed is about that but most HTV is higher by another 15 degrees. I would try more heat and do exactly what Dakota suggested, verify your press temp with IR thermo gun to be sure it's actually giving what it's supposed to. Even my $2500 Fusion was way off when I first got it. (It was actualy high and cause scorches but still off). The techs at hotronix had me buy an IR gun and check so that's the correct proceedure and important. Pressure on the shirt is also important. I usually error a bit on the high side just to be safe. Typically if you overdo it you can see some adhesive ooze out at the edges of the vinyl (hard to see on anything except double layers thgouh). I have never had a failure from too much pressure either. The HTV techs get touchy with it, worrying that you can squish it all out the sides but like I said, never had a failure and I have occasionally over pressured significantly on accident. The only failures I have had were 1 roll of bad HTV (very very very unlikely but is possble) but that would only happen on one of the colors. And lack of either heat time or temp. Most often due to temp or something like a thick neck collar holding part of the platen up causing eneven pressure (baby onsies are the worst!) Heat most likely in your case. EDIT: Just saw that only the black is lifting. If you are putting the black on last and the others are getting more swell time it could do what you say.
  14. Wildgoose

    Finally taking the plunge

    hotrodz0321 my biggest advice is have a good tax accountant help you stay out in front of the tax burden. You will probably see a significant jump in earned income through your new venture. Also if you have not been collecting sales tax (assuming your state does that like most) be prepared to toe the line. I almost went down the first year I got some big contracts. With new equipment purchases you have a great write-off but after this tax season you may find yourself surprised how much money uncle sam takes if you don't have significant purchses to write off next year set some money aside. Most tax accountants can work you a forecast and you can and should pay quarterly estimates if it will be a lot of money. Not sure what Florida tax laws are like so gettting some sound advice from a good tax man would be smart. I can't give you much help on the printer. I've talked myself out of them several times just due to the need to keep them busy. My business model has shifted away from sign vinyl and I do primarily aparrel work now so the need for a printer has dropped.
  15. Siser says it can and even has hand iron install instructions. I can promis you that anyone doing it that way will NOT get the same quality of job even the poorest of clam shells can produce.