Wildgoose

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Wildgoose last won the day on January 12

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About Wildgoose

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  1. Wildgoose

    What clear application tape for Oracal 951 vinyl?

    What he ^^^ said. It takes a LOT of practice and the Pro's use paper. Once you get it installed if you are fighting the release you can wet the surface of paper and it will help get it off. You say you need to see the vinyl but that makes no sense to me. If you have your app tape on without bubbles then you will see if you get a bubble in the paper too and you might get one here and there but they can be removed with a pin prick (not a knife tip though) The perforated holes are for the gear drive machines like the Gerber cutters and while you don't see them all that often out in the private sector they are often true tangential head commercial grade machines. The weird spaced overlap is something to do with an alignment on the sprockets. I don't know that I have ever bought 15" vinyl that wasn't perforated from any source. Some 30" stuff I have bought was perforated. Never had an issue with 951 (or 751 for that matter) not sticking. It is much more pliable so it will react differently than 651 where 651 is so stiff it stays down kind of like a piece of plastic. I think it recommended to let it sit a few minutes to gain a "bite". Are you squeegeeing it really well? Compound shapes are much trickier to do a good job on the squeegee. The wrap guys use the air release and chase the bubbles out as they go.
  2. Wildgoose

    Equipment Advice Please!

    You can easily do that with t-shirts. Great revenue stream especially if you have a lot of contacts. Make something fun and wear it to the next get together. My mind is off color a bit but something like "If my hand slaps your face it was in remote control" might go over well.
  3. Wildgoose

    HTV Bunching Up

    Your speed sound high. HTV carrier is more plastic and will flex so a slower approach is a good idea. Also make sure you haven't already broken a blade tip. HTV needs a nice sharp blade or you end up cranking up the pressure to get penetration which then leads to the bunching you describe. Every machine is different so what Titan says is 540mm/sec may not actually be but I would try setting your speed between 1/4 and 1/3 of the max. If yours will go as high as 800mm/sec try between 200 and 240 as a starting place. You can always speed up if you really need to, too slow isn't necessary either but some really thick products cut better at slower speeds. I have never understood going at full speed for a home application. All mechanical equipment has a lifespan and much like a vehicle, hard mileage does take a toll. I have a $3500 Summa and I run it at 200mm/sec most of the time. It has a turbo setting which speeds up the movements between cuts but other than that I don't like to ask it to overwork because I plan on having it for several more years.
  4. Glad you are up and running at least a little. I would be willing to bet that most of your problems with flipped and weird slashes are coming from Artcut. I have yet to hear a good word about that program. Never ran it myself so I only go by what people say which could be brand new users just not understanding but every single one seem to have issues. Now that you are at least getting some connection you might give a different cutting utility a try. I recommend trying the free trial of SignCut Pro. They have tech support if you run into trouble and the new version has some design capability. I run the old Pro 1 version that is just for cuts and do my design elsewhere but they upgraded recently. USCutter used to package SignCut with the cutters and it was what came with my CT1200 that I originally started out cutter life with. I like it so much I have stayed with it even with my $3500 Summa.
  5. Wildgoose

    Best Cutter for the money

    To the OP: I would probably agree with Slice.The SC2 is a good choice and either the 28" or the wider 34" offering should do you pretty good to break into the scene. The Laser point doesn't seem to offer much more in the way of accuracy that I can ascertain. The laser pointer is not really all that useful. That being said if you can see your way to scraping up enough to get the Titan servo machine which is the Titan 2. The cost is more like 1K but servo motors are really nice. If you're not getting servo motors then the SC is the best bang for the buck. The ONLY one we tend to steer people away from is the MH. (this speaking as the users forum who see the issues people have)
  6. Wildgoose

    Best Cutter for the money

    What? You saying you write in pigeon? I figured that was just a Hawaii thing and rolled with it. O-K den.
  7. Wildgoose

    Cutting program help please !

    I am assuming you were using the Graphtec plug-in for Illustrator "Cutting Master" to run your cutter? Do you still have an install disc for the Illustrator 8? That's a pretty old version of AI but totally capable. You should be able to go to the Graphtec website and download the correct plug-in. Probably the older version than the latest. I am not a Graphtec user so I don't know the details on those but I am aware that they exist.
  8. Wildgoose

    Hello from another beginner

    Actually with Illustrator, unless they have changed something since going to cloud based there was no such thing as a student or home version. If you got a student discount you still got the whole program and all plug-ins are good to go. I know this because I had a daughter in school and used her academic discount when I bought stand alone CS5 AI which I still use with lots of sweet plug-ins from Astute Graphics. Some of the new plug-ins will not work on my older version but enough do that it makes life pretty speedy. To Blue Line, If you are technically challenged I don't think I would recommend Adobe Illustrator as it's a real challenge to learn and much like a reverse polish calculator, once you get used to it all the other stuff seems really messed up. AI however IS the tool of choice for design on a mac. In fact I think it runs much more smooth on a mac than on the windows platform. Should you decide to give it a go I highly recommend finding a home study course like Lynda.com. If you can find a good one and have a few months to practice (no I'm not even kidding) Illustrator is a great program. Once learned it's about the handiest thing since indoor plumbing and you can cut the designs from Sure Cuts A Lot. I use SignCut Pro 1 which is mac OR pc compatible as my interface with the cutter. I think the SCALP program has improved since the early days and many on here have luck with it but as a design tool I think it's lacking.
  9. Wildgoose

    How do YOU charge for vinyl Graphics

    When I was getting started I had a couple friends do some undercover work with other local shops so I had a general idea what things were going for. Some things I was not interested in trying to compete with and others I could make a killing on. The print shop guys will always spank you on multi layer work because to them other than extra ink coverage it's all the same. I pushed the longevity of cut cast (751 or 951 etc...) that would get you 8-10 years on simple vehicle logo's where most of the printed work will show fading at the 5 year mark. New business people won't see this but those who have been buying logo's for years will get it. I charge more based on what they expect to pay than what it actually would add up to with cost plus margin. I don't do much regular vinyl anymore but one of my old regulars is a self installer and they buy a couple vehicles vinyl a year. I charge them $185 for two color graphics. They run a fairly sizable logo with other numbers and tag lines but my cost on the 951 is around $40 plus an hour shop labor so the profit margin is pretty high for me and no risk on the install. I typically charge $6 per SF per color layer for cast but when they get really large and easy cutting that can be lowered if I'm feeling generous. I measure the SF based on the roll not the actual design so for instance if the logo is over about 11 inches tall it will encroach into the second half of the 24" roll where my pinch rollers run so it costs $12 per running foot rather than $6 due to wasting the other half of the 24" roll. Some logo's only have a splash of second or third layer color and I determine that price off the cuff in large part whether they are picky and painful to work with or not. In actual build I most likely would stack the two sides and get both cut within that 24" roll but I still charge the other way. You will have enough trouble with messed up cuts or messed up taping off that you better plan to make enough that you can cover the occasional mistake because it WILL happen. Especially with a lower end cutter. The only job you will never lose money on is the one you turn down. Some people are too much drama to work for unless you are charging so much it makes you warm and fuzzy inside. It's called passive aggressive, I know, I have issues.
  10. Wildgoose

    Best Vinyl to use for Polypropylene Bags

    Thanks for posting back so others can see your results!
  11. Wildgoose

    CE6000-40Plus Media Help

    Here is one thread where they are mentioned in "Background Settings"
  12. Wildgoose

    CE6000-40Plus Media Help

    There are sensors that detect the pinch rollers. You can turn them off. I don't have a Graptec and can't remember HOW but MZ Skeeter has mentioned this several times. You might pull it up in a search.
  13. Wildgoose

    Go-C Graphics

    Are those lighted stand-offs? Really sweet looking.
  14. Wildgoose

    What do you use?

    I'm probably too picky to answer you because I almost never use the auto trace function. I run Adobe Illustrator and have inkscape and VM pro as well but have never been comfortable with the results and end up spending just as much time cleaning and fixing as just recreating it from scratch or hand tracing. Granted it took a few years to become proficient. There is a forum member (Skarekrow) who is super freaky fast with a Photo Shop clean-up and then auto trace in AI workflow that hands down cleans my clock on a time factor. I've seen him bust out some complicated designs in mere minutes that I would have spent an hour on. I can get around ok in PS but not good enough to make that work for me. I started into this craft doing vector conversions for a few of the shops in my area so I am a little extreme on the detail, maybe more than I should be but if I recreate a file I try to get it as exact as I can. Auto trace won't do that. Most of my clients had old logo's long forgotten and only an old business card or pic of the front of their store to go from. If the font is hard to find I generally ask them how close it needs to be to gauge how much time I have to spend on it.