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Wildgoose last won the day on November 13

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  1. Wildgoose

    Vinylmaster pro

    I bet the long USB cord was at least a part of the issue too. 6ft max recommended. Glad you're up and running. You will like the Pro version. Ton's of bells and whistles.
  2. Wildgoose

    Pix max Vinly cutter

    I concur with MZ Skeeter. Even within the structure and support group of US Cutter we here at the users forum try to steer people to a better quality cutter than the MH (which it appears the Pix-Max is maybe equal or the same). They are the very bottom of the barrel and for just a smidge more you can get a lot better performance out of the SC2. We are not trying to up-sell you because none of us are involved with the company that way we just see all the traffic come through the forum and most of the MH buyers have issues with things that the slightly better cutters seem to avoid. I wouldn't buy the Pix just because there is basically zero tech support of any kind and probably no parts support either. US Cutter sells a whole array of cutters including the rock bottom door buster MH that is basically designed to get people to try and then like a crack addict they can't stop cutting because it's so COOL and they eventually upgrade anyway. Might as well just step up a little and you'll have a better experience. Make no mistake, the stepper motors are not as accurate as the servo and much louder but for text down to around the 3/4 or maybe 1/2 inch mark and designs up to the 3ft or 4ft long range they work pretty good. With enough practice a good operator can get smaller/bigger than that size parameter but it gets sketchy and you have to have your machine tuned up and have learned all it's personality quirks.
  3. Wildgoose


    There are a lot of free vector art out there. Some are not ready to cut but some are. When you do a search just be sure and search for vectors not clip-art. Clip art are sometimes vectors but often just bitmap images that won't work for you anyway. A good idea is to go to the SignTorch website and he has a few free downloads and a great assortment of art to buy should you need a specific file. He's a forum member although not on a lot. His work is absolutely immaculate. I recommend grabbing the free files and open them up and take a peek at how things SHOULD be designed. It will help you know what a good design that is actually "Cut Ready" looks like. He does a lot of work for plasma tables which just happen to work great for vinyl cutters as well. When I first got into this craft I happened across his work and took his files apart to see how the pro's did it and have tried to emulate his skill. Not easy btw.
  4. Wildgoose


    No need to let in overwhelm you. The graphics side can be daunting. I am an Adobe Illustrator guy and I think it may be the single hardest program I even learned. Really sweet once I got it mastered but very miserable in the learning. Any program you go with will require some playing time but once you get over the basics the rest are mostly just repetition of the same basic functions. If you get stumped there are plenty here willing to give some pointers and there are people that hire out their design services for a small fee as well. As long as you bid in the fee and have a little time to wait for it to get done that isn't a bad way to go for "new to graphics" people. You can buy tons of ready made graphics out there also although be a little careful that it is actually cut ready. A lot of the super cheap stuff is garbage IMO.
  5. Wildgoose

    Creation Kingcut

    If you try the generic route I would start with a P-Cut driver and see what happens. If it starts on fire run the other way.
  6. Wildgoose

    Creation Kingcut

    Here is what I found with a search. http://www.creation.com.hk/eng/support.asp
  7. Wildgoose

    Creation Kingcut

    You on a mac or a pc?
  8. Wildgoose

    Creation Kingcut

    I have never seen one in person but pretty sure I agree they are made by Creation the same outfit that makes the P-Cut that I used to own. USC does not carry that brand anymore but I bet some of the generic drivers would work.
  9. Wildgoose


    Cut is the very basic version and in reality mostly a cutting interface between the cutter and your computer. If you end up getting serious with the whole thing you will probably find yourself spending some coin on an upgrade. If you DO go that route I would probably suggest the Pro version of VM. I have a copy of the Pro version and am learning it when I have spare time. It's a really intuitive program and has all kinds of awesome goodies tucked in there for the sign builder. If you had a full on printer then you might consider the Expert but for most things including proof images Pro's got it going on. In the meantime there are other options you can do such as Inkscape which is totally free and a fairly robust program (especially for the price). You should be able to design in Inkscape and then open and cut from VM Cut. Inkscape works on a native SVG file format that I think VM will open right up. Typical work flow you will probably find yourself doing will be to import an image of someones logo and use it as a template to design a cut file from it. You build the cut file directly on top of the image so you can get all the elements aligned like the original. Very few people have an actual vector of their logo or whatever they are wanting. You can attempt to do an image vectorization of them but the results are most often sub-par (I call this the Easy Button and it works about 5% of the time). I typically rebuild from scratch most peoples logo's. Once you learn the basics most designs are not that complicated to make. Finding the correct font's is probably the single biggest time killer and there are tricks to that as well. Another thing you will find yourself doing is importing an image of someones car, building, t-shirt model etc... and laying their logo over the top so they have a preview/proof of the look and size. When I do a vinyl install I use this as my way to get the size I want. For instance if I am doing a car door logo I take a pic of their car and hold a tape measure up in the pic so I can scale the drawing (Or take a measurement of a given item like the window etc) I then scale the pic up to life size in my program and lay the logo on there in full sized scale. To get the scale right I make a colored box the width of the window or a foot long to match up with the image and scale the image until my foot long box matches the tape measure in the pic. Just passing a few tricks on.
  10. Wildgoose

    A little help please

    The more you do the better you will get. I think that looks great. You probably notice that your brown layer is not where you were planning but no one else will except us over critical fanatics. Do you understand registration marks? Most programs will add them for you or you can add your own. Basically a set of points around or in line with the design in each color all stacked up so as you place each layer you align the marks and the design will be aligned. I generally make a diamond or something and place a few around the design then copy and paste them in place again for each color layer so when you cut by color they are all in the same spot. I usually install with them included then peel them off the window or substrate. There are also videos of multi-layered work done on the workbench prior to install and then just one time on the final substrate. Depending on the job that's often a good way to go. I have a design for my day job that has very critical alignment or it looks bad and I generally stack them at home so I only have to worry about getting them straight on the truck and not fight the curve or doors making things go awry.
  11. Wildgoose

    A little help please

    For general sign vinyl you would typically build it so that each layer is solid and install the yellow followed by the orange then topped by the black/brown top layer. You don't want any "inner" holes to try and match up with they will just give you trouble. Getting perfect registration on all the layers takes some practice and will be made a little harder with budget cutters due to their lack of pristine accuracy but this design looks like it will lend itself to a little inaccuracy without looking off. Some designs with HTV vinyl applied by heat press might be done in a different order but not this one.
  12. Wildgoose

    Printing on sublimation film

    I don't know that I ever heard of sublimation FILM. I have some sublimation PAPER that I used to do some sublimation on with an epson 7610. I couldn't get a good revenue stream flowing with it so I stopped trying. During that time I did a LOT of testing with that process and was amazed to find how much you can change the outcome by changing the individual elements like what Dakota mentioned. For instance I did a series of orange and blue rectangles in various CMYK values and printed several copies and then I started changing dwell time, temp ranges and even the pressure and it was pretty dramatic the difference you could get from those changes. I was shooting for the best match to a clients team logo was the driving force for the effort.
  13. Wildgoose

    Wyn, 67 year old newbe.

    I work my business from home as a side business. Your MH would suffice for Heat Transfer Vinyl (HTV) but doing many copies will tax the memory capability so you'll be cutting a few and then a few more. I used to think 10 shirts was a big order. We grossed over $80K last year. It's a veritable cornucopia of opportunity. There are a few people who want a vinyl decal but practically everyone wants a tee shirt. I do everything from small businesses and reunions to whole sports teams and clubs with their uniforms. I didn't start that all at once. Little by little. What you need: #1. Some form of cutter, The better you can afford the easier life is for you. #2. A heat press with at the minimum a 15" x 15" platen and again the better quality the better your life will be. #3. Decent design capabilities (and programs) because most people only have a rough idea what they want and you will be building and sending many proofs/previews. A program capable of building previews with the artwork laid on a pic of the theoretical shirt is a must. A few will have a vector logo for you but most of those are only half built and need modified to be cut ready. Starting out green you can hire that work done if you want but eventually you'll want to learn to do it for yourself. I also send a lot of my art to have custom made plastisol transfers built that I then apply to the shirts (I use F&M). This is what Sue2 is talking about and they are a good high volume option when doing more like 25 or more at a time. There are other options such as printed HTV and tee shirt transfers made on a pigment printer that can be outsourced and applied as well. Lots of searching will help you get a grasp. #4. Assuming you get this up and functional you will need a wholesale supplier which generally means a business license of some sort. Say hi to the tax man, everyones favorite. There are some blank shirt sellers that don't care that you can start out with but the prices are not as good as getting set up wholesale.
  14. Wildgoose


    I was not involved but for proprietary reasons competitor products are not linked too on the USC forum. Not a legality things so much as a forum thing in this case. They pay to keep the forum open so we try to limit the out of system advertising. It's well known that the forum is friendly to all sorts of cutting and vinyl related questions as seen in things like "Competitor cutter help" section, etc... but there IS a line in the sand and as mods we try to keep it defined.
  15. Wildgoose

    Looking for Ford Platinum Tailgate Logo

    I did the peterbilt emblem on one of our work trucks at my day job. I took a pic and then made the image the same size as the real emblem and did my work off that and it came out pretty good. We were actually covering it up completely with a custom name over the top. Little different.