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Wildgoose last won the day on October 12

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About Wildgoose

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  1. For white shirts the JPSS is untouchable. No one even comes close. For darks the 3G seems to be about as good as you can get. I used to do more of the transfers than I do now and I tried several commercial grade options. ALL of the ones for darks have a lousy feel to them even after a washing cycle. Feel like someone glues a piece of paper on your chest. I try to talk most people either into a white shirt so I can use JPSS or altogether away from the transfer onto darks if I can fide another option with HTV etc... I think the only really good way to get full color onto darks that has any kind of hand is DTG printing. Too expensive for my operation but it does do this application good. The JPSS on a white cotton or blended shirt is almost not there. I always make sure and trim off the excess around the edges to about 1/8" or less and try not to leave straight lines on the edges where there are open spots between letters etc... and be sure and follow the application instructions and give it a light stretch while hot so it sort of stretches and then settles down in the weave. I have a couple shirts I built for myself that have been through countless wash cycles and they still look great. If you cold peel them they don't last as long and will start to fleck and come loose.
  2. Not familiar with that brand of transfer. It is possible that it's a little thin and doesn't get good coverage on darks. Commercial grade transfers do exist. For dark transfers I usually recommend Neenah 3G Jet Opaque and for white shirts Jet Pro Soft Stretch (JPSS). If you intend to do shirts to sell (or even a lot for how use)I would recommend investing in a heat press. There is no comparison between a bonafide heat press and trying to get consistency with a hand iron. I know that several transfers and even some cut vinyl are advertised to be able to hand iron but the difference is the applied product and it's subsequent lifespan is remarkable.
  3. Wildgoose

    My subs almost up !

    Same here I have CS5 on my mac although it has a glitch when in the font view you have to be careful how you scroll through or it will crash. That has been going on since I went to version 10:13 High Sierra You might take a look at this thread:
  4. Wildgoose

    "Show print tiling"

    Here is a screenshot of the print dialog General tab. The area in the circle is where you choose the paper size once you tag the "tile" box. Down beside the Tile toggle you can adjust from "Full Pages" and adjust the overlap or choose "Imagable Area"
  5. Wildgoose

    Not a font I would recommend....

    I have some similar (the Gadson Flag logo) that I have made for a group here. I ended up just making the background solid and doing a second layer to get the effect without all the work. It was worth the extra vinyl and press cycle.
  6. Here is a video (from SignCut) that helps understand blade offset.
  7. SignCut does svg just fine. I use mac computers and SignCut Pro 1 and it's a great workflow. USCutter used to provide a years subscription to SIgnCut Pro 1 with new cutter purchases. There is a new Pro 2 version out that has a little more design capability but I do my design work in Adobe Illustrator anyway so that part is no concern. I got used to SignCut and continue to use it to this day even after upgrading to a servo cutter but I went ahead and purchased the lifetime dongle so I didn't have to pay rent on the program and so I can hop computers at will. I like it because it will actually run on mac and pc not either/or. If they come through with a mac version of Vinyl Master that would be really sweet. As a mod I have access to VM for training and learning and it's a really well built program for what we do. I am still a dedicated AI guy but VM has some features that can save a lot of time and is about the best bang for the buck design and cut combination available.
  8. Wildgoose

    Hey all!

    Welcome from Idaho.
  9. Wildgoose

    SignCut Support Portal

    US Cutter used to sell cutters with a year of free SignCut Pro included. I wish it was still an option because they are a great way to interface with mac computers. (I still choose to use it with my Summa) They stopped showing up on the forum after they quit getting as much traffic as they used to but the website address is still the right one and they have great live tech support. You have to go to the site and submit a support request and they will contact you back and usually deal with you via a live chat session but will also call if needed and I even had them remote into my computer one time when I was brand new to it all.
  10. Wildgoose

    Pix Max help

    Agree with both Skeeter and darcshadow. The single biggest mistake we see is the blade exposure setting. Follow Skeeters directions (second paragraph in second post in this thread). Once you have that set properly then you can start to dial in the rest. SignCut Pro is a great cutting interface. If you are having things show up that shouldn't then there is something wrong. I use the original Pro 1 and wouldn't trade for anything. They have free live tech support. Go to the website and enter a support request and they will get with you pretty quickly. On my first cutter I had to have them remote into my computer to figure out what was wrong. Be sure the cutter you chose in SignCut "Cutter" tab is exactly your cutter. SignCut has it's own drivers but your chip (assuming you are using a USB cord) is possibly one of the cheap ones and might need something installed to hook up properly. This would be some sort of installation disc that would have come with your cutter possibly. I'm NOT a technical guru, just making suggestions to check. I also agree with Skeeter on testing with a known pristine file so you KNOW there isn't already a rounded corner. Make a small 1" square in Inkscape and use that so you can see if your blade offset is set right.
  11. Wildgoose

    Mold on Vinyl few days after placement on tshirt.

    Yep that's definitely die migration. Most of Stahls are susceptible to this when light colors are used on dark polyester. Some are built to handle it like the silicone dye sub and the Thermo film.
  12. Wildgoose

    "Show print tiling"

    Are you trying to adjust your art board size? There us a little tool down on the toolset that lets you adjust it easily either by dragging sides or typing in specific size. Shift+O will open that tool up as well if it isn't immediately apparent. If it's actual print issues not dartboard then in the print dialog there will be a box in the General tab that lets you decide what print media size. And below it are the next couple boxes that let you either leave it to scale, scale it, fit to page, Custom scale or tile. The Tile option is constrained by the previous media size settings. On the next page in the print dialog there will be marks and bleed that let you override whatever bleed settings were in the original document set-up. Hope the helps. I actually run CS5 but they are the same for these things I believe.
  13. Wildgoose

    Cutting 3M 2080 vs. 1080

    Are you having difficulty due to the protective film?
  14. Wildgoose

    Vinyl colors

    I bought a bundle of a bunch of 5 yard rolls of the grecnstar. That was in 2010 and I still have most of those colors. I HAVE found that the grecnstar has it's place in the world. I use it for short term work and also it's extra thickness works great as sandblast resist on glass blasting and it comes back off easier than the higher grades. I bought a 48" wide roll of white thinking I would cover plywood signboard which I never even tried because 48" wide anything is murderous to install so I cut it down and have used it for other things. I even covered some kitchen cabinet shelves about 7 years back and it's still in there holding up well. Tough stuff, I never had too much trouble weeding it as long as the work was not detailed,
  15. I just noticed something. In one of your videos it appears that at least one of the lines across or around the job have pouncing or perf cuts. Do you have this set on perf cutting or something? That might be part of the problem. I hate to exasperate a point but you are using the little bombsight to set your blade depth at 2mm which is literally 5 times as much as you need. Heat transfer vinyl is usually at most 3 mil which is 0.076 mm if my conversion is correct. If you do the blade setting by hand as mentioned by Skeeter you will have better luck. I would do the hand setting on a piece of regular 3 calendared vinyl not on heat transfer vinyl. The plastic carrier sheet will trick you on heat transfer vinyl because it is really hard to tell if you are partially penetrating the carrier or not.