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Wildgoose last won the day on October 23

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About Wildgoose

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  1. Wildgoose

    New Business Laptop

    Yeah they got a bonk on the head. No spammers allowed!
  2. Wildgoose

    I can't contour cut, please help !

    Have you cut or plotted ANYTHING? If you haven't I would be sure to play around with basic operation and make sure everything is working correctly before heading into the much more complicated world of countour cutting.
  3. Wildgoose

    activation serial

    Auto Corrupt! I love it. LOL
  4. Wildgoose

    activation serial

    I don't know. It gets sticky when you aren't the original owner. A lot of this kind of software is not transferable to another person. The developer would assume you don't have permissions to use it, and probably be correct by their terms and conditions. People sell their programs often but it's pretty much buyer beware. I have not investigated VinylMaster to see what their policy is.
  5. Glad you got it running. I keep wanting to upgrade my old Summa to a T series but I haven't made the leap yet. Always seem to have other things that I need worse. That's the problem with the Summa, It just keeps running and running so it's a want rather than a need.
  6. Wildgoose

    Mac Boot Camp to run cutting software

    haumana is awesome with the Mac tech. I hate windows but DO have an older windows 7 laptop that I do my books on and usually run my cutter. Most of my design work is on an iMac but for simplicity I transfer my cut files via a thumb drive over and cut on the laptop. This is as much because I don't have the cutter near my design work station as anything. I use Illustrator for design but use SignCut Pro 1 as my cutter interface. I chose it because if you buy a lifetime dongle you can run It on Mac OR pc. Super handy. It's not cheap so if you are just starting out it may not be worth it but I love it. It has plug-ins for several design programs (not Canvas I'm sure) but I prefer to just open a cut ready file with the program itself. It will cut from several vector options including svg. Not trying to sell you on it but if you are considering spending any kind of money it might be worth doing the free trial. They offer a week free I believe. The old Pro 1 version I use is about obsolete and I don't know much about the new version but I see it has some design capability whereas Pro 1 is strictly an interface, but oh so sweet with all the bells and whistles like nesting and weeding lines etc. They also have real live tech help which NO ONE else gives to my knowledge.
  7. Wildgoose

    Installing art straight

    I have learned to be very precise when I do a final clean-up cut after applying the app tape. I use one of the see through craft ruler (Fiskars) and I cut as straight and square as possible. I usually try to use a common offset like a half inch around each side. (enough to be able to hinge without overlapping the vinyl with my masking tape. I have found that being able to use the outside of the masked decal to align with is easier than trying to see through the app tape and figure out if it's hanging straight or not. Having a nice square decal works wonders on simple things like flat glass and signage. If it's going on a car, keeping it looking straight is a whole other art form with all the wild body lines these days. I usually find a window or door bottom or something like that to match and hope for the best. Another worthy piece of newbie advice... go find an Auto Paint & Glass supply store and splurge on some PG grade masking tape.(3/4" or 1") I'm pretty sure the PG stands for Professional Grade. It adheres about 10 times better than the regular stuff you get at normal stores. It also comes off clean without leaving residue. It's not cheap but you'll use less and when the wind catches an edge and tries to take off with your work about the time you have the backing off it just may save your day.
  8. Ha ha. Probably an "oh crap" moment where someone realized theyd forgotten it. Back to the original info. I have a couple programs that will addd thse registration marks like you did here. I still don't use them because they don't always put them where I want them. I still make mine manually and add them to the design in the same spot and each with the colors that associate. Still a good skill to learn, it may help you one day. I don't know the graphtec studio program but there SHOULD be a way to copy an object or group of them (your home made registration marks) and then paste them in place so that they are pasted back into the design right on top of the very copy you made. You then change the color of the new set that are on top of the originals and you now have built in registration marks.
  9. First I suggest joining the forum so you don't have to wait for each post to be approved. I have a D75R. Congrats on the T series, I am jealous, seriously. I don't print and therefore don't do much OPUS contour cutting but have played around some when I got the machine so I'd be at least a little familiar with it. I am not sure exactly how VM Expert will interact with the Summa. I recommend putting in a support ticket with them and probably one with Summa. You should have received the free basic cutting utility WinPlot with your cutter. I had good success using the OPUS with WinPlot although I did not care for the interface and I also run on Mac so I went a different way and have used SignCut Pro. Even in SignCut Pro I seem to remember there being some roadblocks with the OPUS and I ended up just building the file and sending it through Winplot on my windows laptop. I am pretty sure that had I really needed to use it I could have found whatever skullduggery was causing the glitch and you should be able to with VM Expert. The Summa support team is awesome (and Live) and they may have some experience on their end. If memory serves me I believe the problem I was having was related to SignCut not adding the OPUS registration marks appropriately and therefore the cutter didn't like them. I don't know if I've helped you much but good luck and when you find some answers please do future searchers a solid and report them back on this thread so it will help the next guy.
  10. Back to copy paste... You do that part in the design phase before you ever send it to the cut menu. Essentially the marks you place to use as registration marks are part of the design and they just need to all stack up in the same place. As Mike said copy the black ones and then paste them in the same spot you copied them from and change the color to match the gold or whatever color you have going next. Once you have them all in there when you ARE over in the cut menu and select a color they will show up with each color of your design.
  11. This is what I do. I like a diamond or a triangle shape. I place them where I want them and then group and copy paste them on top of one another in each color layer so they are all on the same spot on the design.
  12. Wildgoose

    how to switch contour rotation

    Good to see some helpful input on the Prism Cut. They are fairly new to the forum and not a lot of users yet so your help is appreciated (or will be by someone)
  13. Wildgoose

    Change the cut path?

    Hopefully you got it figured out. It is also often helpful to look at your design in "wire frame" mode. All vector design programs have this view option. What you see in wire frame is what your cutter see's. The colors you choose to fill different objects lets your cutting software determine and separate out multiple color projects and send just the specific group to the cutter. (All the red, all the green etc...) Your cutter just follows along the paths that are sent. Good luck and if you still have issues post a screen shot of what you go going on. (no copyright protected items please) It's easier to help if we can see the problem.
  14. I'd say a huge success for your experience level. Good job! Those adhesive cutting carrier sheets can be a little wonky when they are out on the ends. If you are going to do this a lot and have the space I would consider some sort of table on one or both sides to help support the carrier while it's working. Think table saw (although not necessarily exactly up at the roller level. Even just setting the cutter on a table may be enough to help with the drooping carrier. I occasionally use a stiff carrier I picked up at Walmart to cut up some craft items for you wife or kids and have seen what can happen when you are out near the start or end of them. Mine are extra stiff, some of those you can find ore more forgiving. I have also made my own carrier when cutting stencils from card stock by just covering the back with a couple layers of transfer paper (even better with some clear transfer but paper seems to work fine) if you have any laying around.
  15. Wildgoose

    HTV on Polyster Cotton Blend shirt

    Not sure what brand go HTV you are planning to use. I assume that you'll use Siser because they claim to be home iron friendly. The HTV won't care what fabric unless its Nylon. If its a tri-blend you would be best going with Siser Stretch but they now have 320 as an application temp instead of 305 which you probably can't get up to with an iron. Read the application data on whatever brand you end up with because they are often a little different brand to brand and even type to type within brands. The elephant in the room is the hand iron. If this is a one off for you or your kids that's one thing but you will never get a good application that way. Consider purchasing an actual heat press. Even the very bottom of the barrel choice is WORLDS above a hand iron.