neeboy74

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About neeboy74

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  1. Do any cutters out there have the ability to change the cutting pressure "on the fly" as a design is being cut? I'd like to have the ability to "score" parts of a design for folding in addition to cutting on the same piece of paper. Thanks in advance!
  2. Thanks, that worked lickety-split right away! You RAWWWWK!
  3. So I've plugged in my LaserPoint 24 cutter; it says it needs to load UBS-Serial Drivers. Ok, done that, everything looks ok. I've drawn a test file in SignBlazer Elements, and I get the attached screenshot; the cutter sits there like a paperweight saying "On-Line." Nothing Else happens. I will also mention that there was no "LaserPoint" listed in the available machines when I started SignBlazer for the first time. I have donwloaded the PDF manual for the cutter and read it, set the machine up, tested it with the "Jog" function and everything. But, like I said, it won't budge when I click on "Cut Tile" in the program. When I press "Cut Tile" I get a blue rectangle around the border and a diagonal dotted line through that rectangle... Thanks in advance for any help!
  4. Hello to all: I just recently pulled my LaserPoint 24 Cutter out of storage after not having used it for nearly 2.5 years (and even then, probably only used it for 20 minutes before boxing it up again). It fired right up, so..... I am an expert AutoCAD user, and I'd like to cut from that program. I did it years ago with a different company's plotter when I made sink templates for stone countertops. Can someone clue me in on how to do this, ie, is there a special driver I need, etc...?
  5. Hello all: I have been experimenting with a 24" Laserpoint cutter. I have set the "Force" all the way up to 200, and it will not cut through thick material such as Strathmore Bristol art paper on the first pass. Also, I do not like the fact that there is no sure way to make sure my paper is going in straight. At an office I worked at some time ago, they had a cutter for cutting thick, heavy duty plastic on rolls. (We made sink templates with this material for cutting stone countertops). This machine also had a bar with plastic wheels on either end (right in front of the cutting path) which made absolutely sure the material ran through straight. Of course, I can't remember what kind of machine it was. I will say that the Laserpoint machine does seem to work exactly as advertised, but it will not work for my purposes. Can anyone out there recommend a machine that has the features I need?
  6. Just HOW do you adjust the blade depth? I am trying to use my new Laserpoint 24", and the instructions are just absolutely, complete, utter nonsense! I have my blade assembly right here, dissasembled in front of me, From left to right I have: 1) A small, thin metal rod about 1" in length. 2) The largest piece of the assembly, which is black, has threads on the bottom and a hole in the top where the aforementioned rod goes. 3) The cutting blade, which fits (and springs into place magnetically) into the bottom of the large black metal piece. 4) The cap for the bottom of the entire assembly, which screws onto the bottom of the aforementioned large black piece. Having said all that, where is there any "adjustability?" I can push down on the thin metal rod at the top of the assembly, and doing that pushes the blade farther out the hole at the bottom, but it doesn't stay there, it just bounces back! What gives here???
  7. Hello to all: I just received my new 24" Laserpoint cutter. How are we supposed to align the material when loading it into the machine? I'm not talking about using the laser for aligning to pre-printed graphics. I'm taking about what (in my opinion) should be the most important issue when using any kind of cutting device: Feeling assured that your material isn't skewed. I know these US Cutter machines are supposed to be a fantastic value, but $400 is still a good chunk of change! They seem to be selling briskly on eBay, so either I'm a moron or a lot of people out there are "settling." Thanks!
  8. Hello to all: After some exhaustive research I am veeeeery close to buying a 2500, but here's what I need to know: 1) I am an expert AutoCAD user. I have read that the files need to be exported out of AutoCAD to .AI or .EPS. Does anyone out there have enough experience doing that? 2) Can the 2500 use things like crayons/markers to plot instead of cut? 3) I would really like to do Kirigami (folded paper sculpture) and to do that I would need to have a cutter be very accurate, because I would need to feed paper through one way, make a very shallow "scoring-cut" (for easier folding) and then re-insert the same paper for a different cut on the other side. I'm not clear on what kind of registration system the 2500 has (if any). I know the there is a new "lasercut" model but I like the 2500's stronger cutting force. Anyone have any thoughts? Thanks in advance for any replies! :tyvm: