haumana

Unfortunately, I did not find any Wizards in any of your previous postings on this forum. That being said, could you provide a little more detail in what you're looking for? B&W or color? Realistic or cartoon? etc.

If it's a simple circular outline of the logo, then recreate the circle on your own, and use that in place of the original one. It'll take a little node editing, but it'll get you a better result. I do it all the time.

[Hello, the pc no longer recognizes me the usb camera device attached the usb to all the ports same thing; opening i-mark it says no video capture, who can help me?]

If you're running four colors on the softball, you should be able to do it in four layers rather than seven. It's just a matter of figuring out how best to setup each cut of color, and which order to layer it in. I understand your thought process though. We all started somewhere, and while you think it's kind of a waste of time, it'll be worth while trying to figure it out, because you will come across more projects that will require layering, and if you take the time to figure it out on the personal, fairly smaller design, then you can hit the ground running for the commercial/larger jobs. Kudos to you on your first go around, my first try looked nothing like it was supposed to.

Graphtec offers a Mac version called Graphtec Studio, it's a basic, watered down version of the Windows counter part. In reality, you can use any cutting software that will support the CE7000.

Definitely weigh the cost of new signage vs. time and effort spent. If the vinyl is that difficult to remove, and the sign is removable, I would opt to purchasing new substrate and doing a fresh sign. No doubt the original signage will be less than ideal to prep for decent vinyl installation.

Thanks for updating us with your resolution.

Correct. (original).jpg does not support transparent background. Raster file formats that support transparency: TIFF, GIF, PNG, JPEG 2000, TGA, and BMP. PhotoShop Elements is a good tool, and reasonably priced when you find it on sale. It has a perpetuity license (unlike the standard PhotoShop).

Graphtec offset is typically zero, however, if for some reason you 're getting better cut adjusting the offset, then do what you need to do to get the best cuts possible.

Very true. If the vinyl feels a little crispy/brittle/stiff, then while it might still be usable (for personal projects), it'll make for some challenging settings to cut.

[Can anyone help me find drivers for the GCC Jagaur II 61 cutter. download or buy] I found this. Hope it helps. [Ich habe das gefunden. Ich hoffe es hilft.] https://hardwaredata.org/index.php?driver=25919

It looks like you're getting some really clean cuts. First and foremost, make sure you have the correct blade depth. Follow Skeeter's directions that she posted above, and then go from there. It's a bit hard to give you a precise setting to use, as every machine will be different, as well as, type/brand of blade, age of blade, brand of vinyl, age of vinyl, and sometime vinyl color (yes, even it's all the same Oracal 651, or whatever brand and series you use). Try to weed your vinyl shortly after cutting, as there have been instances if you don't weed it - the adhesive can bond back to each side across the cut line. I will generally weed within 48-hours, if not immediately after cutting. If you're not going to weed it immediately, make sure that the vinyl stays fairly cool, so the adhesive doesn't get gummy and re-bond across the cut line. If when weeding, if it seems that the blade has not cut through the adhesive, then you might need adjust your blade depth and/or pressure. In your case, it looks like pressure, since you're getting some clean lines. Not going to lie, when I got my first machine, the US Cutter guy told me that the starting pressure for my machine was 120. That was the quickest way to cut through the vinyl, the adhesive, and almost clean through the paper backing. It took a little trial and error, but the sweet spot for pressure for my first machine was between 86 - 105 (depending on vinyl age, brand, and color). As long as you're not cutting through the paper, you can up the pressure a little at a time. Once you start to see the blade cut into the backing, then you know you need to dial it back a little. There have been times that I have cut the vinyl, but not the adhesive, and it's a total pain to weed because it just wants to pull everything up You can use the control panel on your machine to do test cuts. If I'm not sure about a setting, I will run test cut, after test cut, after test cut. I will know the sweet spot when I weed it all up and see what how well the paper backing was scored (or not). Last, but not least, take your time weeding. I will typically use a skinny bamboo stick with a rounded point while I'm weeding, just in case there are pieces that want to lift as I go. I just hold down the size that's wanting to lift to hold it down. If you're having difficulties weeding because what you're trying to remove is kind of big, then you can cut boxes around areas to make them smaller and more manageable.

I do the cut & paste method, because I want the cutting carriage to stay in the area and cut twice before moving to the next section, minimizing the material from going back and forth. It's a LaserPoint, no where near as precise as a Graphtec. It was either Dakota or BannerJohn who advised me to go that route.

If for some reason the reflective isn't cutting quite like it should, then you might need to cut it twice. I have not cut reflective on my Graphtec, because I don't want to abuse my new CleanCut Blade that way , but when I do cut reflective on my LaserPoint, I find that it needs to be cut twice. The trick to that, is cut and paste the graphic so that one sits directly over the other, and the machine will typically cut the first pass, then cut the second.

Nice! There really was no bad choice. Sounds like y'all have a great game plan and the money to fund it. That sounds like a total win in my book.

copy > paste > edit out the nodes you don't need until you're left with what you're looking for.

Welcome to the community! It would be helpful if you posted a pic of what you're trying to weed, and if it's a close up, put a coin or ruler by it so we have something to reference for size. Another means of weeding, which some crafters and hobbyist do, is to weed what you can, tape it up, and then weed the rest from the application tape. I am not a big fan of that personally, but admittedly there have been times where I thought I weeded it perfectly, only to find out that there was something I missed, and needed to weed it off the app tape. It happens

Win10. The bane to some people's cutting life. There is a chance that Win10 (automatically) downloaded an update that has unknowingly caused the connection to be hinky. If you have access to an older Win7 or WinXP, I would try with that. If you don't, then at the very least, take your Win10 machine offline. I don't know if it's worth the hassle of deactivating the license, and trying to reinstall, or just waiting to see what VM has to say about it. A possible workaround, is as what Skeeter has suggested, download and install SignBlazer and at least get your machine going until you can figure out the issue with the VM/Cutter spooler.

try cutting a square box and see if it gives you a rectangle. are you able to run a test cut from the cutter control panel?

which directions are the ovals? longer front to back, or side to side.

Aloha e Bryan. Welcome to the forum. It's super quick, easy, and free! I would suggest you register as a forum member, that way your post show up immediately, and it won't be delayed waiting for one of the volunteer moderators to approve your post. Now on to your original question, this video might help you or at least point you in the right direction.

Unless you're trying to pen plot the design, it's not necessary for the design to be filled with color.

What OS are you running? Is your laptop staying put, near the cutter, or are you plugging and unplugging the cutter on a regular basis? You might want to check which port the cutter was assigned to, and make sure that VM is selecting the correct port.

^THIS^ Definitely that. Because an incorrect blade depth will cause frustration and possible unnecessary wear and tear. Oh, and maybe an extra cutting strip or two.

Ummm, what exactly is your question?