haumana

You can also try Sign Blazer Elements for troubleshooting purposes.

Register for the forum, then your post will go up immediately. It's free. Are you having problems with Vinyl Master or your machine? The drivers for cutters are extremely simple. Have you tried uninstalling and reinstalling?

I would very much be interested in any video you have of your CE7000 contour cutting magnetic sheets.

If Darc is right and you're trying to contour cut the magnet, then no - don't do it. Your cutter wasn't designed to do that.

Probably doable, but for the time it might take you to properly dial in your machine to cut just the layer(s) of vinyl and not cut into the magnet material, it would just be faster to do the individual layers and apply it to the magnet after cutting. I would want to cause the drag on the rollers of the weight of the magnet sheet, and to cut the first layer of vinyl, and not to cut into the second layer will take a lot of time and finesse with the machine. I would love to be able to have that level of skill and knowledge with my cutter, in reality I don't. I'm always up for improving my layering skills

2" is not much to waste, unless what you're saying is the border thickness is 2", and you're not telling us what the size of the border actually is. That being said, you can draw a "U" to the desired size and thickness; or do the box border and then not edit to size.

Glad that you got it back running. Chance are, if changing the blade fixed the issue, then most likely the tip of the blade had broken off. The small tags that you're getting on the corners/closing of some of the text, it's usually an off set problem. Please keep in mind that if you decide to swap out a pen for the blade in the carriage, the offset for a pen is typically 0.0, as using a blade is not a 0.0 offset. Every machine can have a slightly different offset value, even within the same models, so that's something that needs to be dialed in on your own.

Glad to hear you managed to work it free. Welcome to your new addiction. You're going to be cutting like crazy in the beginning and will probably be fielding all kinds of requests from friends and family. I started as a hobbyist, and am still a hobbyist, but have done enough word of mouth business to pay for my LP within a short amount of time, and finally upgraded to a Graphtec when I thought I needed a "back-up" for my LP. Save you pennies, and as long as you don't break the bank, upgrade to a Graphtec as soon as you can. I can only say that I regret not pulling the trigger on it sooner. It's soooo much smoother, quieter, and accurate. Come back to the forum with your questions and concerns, because we will always try to help and hope that others can learn from your experience. Happy cutting!!

Can't beat the refurb price, you can definitely do better getting an SC. The MH series is not just a starter cutter, but a very starter machine. I would recommend saving up a little more money and springing for an SC. The MH can offer some unique challenges that some of the other machines don't run into - like limited memory, which depending on job/file size, make impact the cut. On a 24" - 34", 3 pinch rollers are nice, but not necessary. I operated my original LP for 12+ years with just 2 pinch rollers. Plus, you're really going to want that stand.

Again, Device Manager, and what Port Windows has assigned to your cutter, since it sounds like you plug and unplug things on a regular basis. Then make sure the COM port number in SBE matches. Once you get it working, I'd recommend not unplugging your cutter from the laptop if you can help it.

Check your Device Manager in Windows and see if Windows has assigned your cutter a different port number.

Start from scratch. Make sure you have the correct blade depth. Without that, there can be all kinds of cutting issues. Have you tried doing the test cut from the control panel of the cutter? What are those results? Is this the first time you're experiencing this issue? What cutting software are you using?

I highly recommend you get to know how to do node edits. It's going to be your best friend. It's a simple, but very power skill to have.

Umm... if you're just cutting regular vinyl and your blades are dulling quickly, you need to buy better blades. I have a 60* Clean Cut blade that I've been using for 10+ years, even cutting reflective once in a while. Creating outlines don't always work ideally for me, so that's when I just delete the nodes that I don't need.

Skeeter's instructions: This is correct way to set your blade depth. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and in your hand, firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should just barely see and feel your blade tip out of the blade holder.