KrunkuliticusIII

wondering about beyone vinyl, what can i buy that makes a nice stencil material either even flexible to cling on things or not so flimsy. Any ideas anyone?

maybe rubylith

have simple text i'm cutting out and just like five lines for a magnetic strip for my buddy's car. I've seen this before too, i'll tell it to cut and it will do like half the job and then go to waiting and nothing but a waste for good vinyl. I'd really hate to break it up and cut line by line ugh. i increased the baud rate on both pc and cutter and again it does cut but just stops and goes to waiting. The blade carriage is not on any of the red buttons and i've had this happen before on a job that couldnt be split up. Any further suggestions??? its really getting to me

double check ur baud and com settings, make sure they match. otherwise in ur cutting software it will looks as though its cutting but the cutter will just show online with no action.

if anything hits the red button the job will stop, infact i am having the same waiting issue and your post about the red button just reminded me to check that hahahaha. Also are your setting the cutters begining point by taking it offline first?

i had the same problem and so i played with the blade offset value in my cutter software (signblazer). So far then only way i know what to put there is by the blade, on the case it come in will say the blades offset value, mine is .25

EXCELLENT! will check it as soon as i'm with my cutter, she's kinda jealous that i'll be with my girlfriend tonight though haha

i have the same issue but i use sign blazer, and it happends only when i have a important job that requires saving vinyl of course. Just wondering where i can find those settings for SB

inkscape rocks for vector work, not to mention its free and does a really good trace if ur not into pen work.

i'd say cut just 2-3 at a time, and weed em as ur awaiting the next batch.

i'm using thermoflex blue glitter flake vinyl and got the design cut out, now when i apply the vinly with my heatpress some of the design will stick to the plastic backing, i'm following instructions 345-350degrees for 20 seconds. This is beginning to ruin my project, any ideas?

i think i might have it, i was told a cold peel is like letting it sit for 5-10minutes, i really would peel like right after it sat long enough to where it wont burn my had prob like 2-3 minutes or something. so something else to try also. oh yeah 350c is liek 600+ f which explains why the myalr melted into the tee, forgot to say that in the last post. By that my press temp is more than likely accurate but still wondeing about the distribution ok enough posts, i grounded myself until friday so i'll post again with heaven or hell haha

yes i was thinking about that too, but i have had good projects too. Will try a temp test on it anyways though.

thanks for your tips, still having some issues though. really close to giving up this line of work due to all the kinks. i'm working very hard and it wouldnt be so bad if something didnt fail every time i attempt this hahah my fans wont let me quit though. btw i'm emailing that company to see what they gotta say too. anyways yes i got two tees done, it kept doing the same crap so i had to manually peel each letter off the mylar with my weeding tool and low tack tape to keep the curls in check then press. Really it souldnt be this difficult grrrrrrrrrrrrrr, the last one did the same and yes i did take ur advice on the pre press. Tried press it for a shorter time like 17 seconds, no change, 30 seconds no changes. hahah then though well maybe my press is really farenheit not celsis like the tag warned. yea, melted the mylar into the tee. I do have extras but after that one i had to quit for tha night and wont even touch it until friday. Hope i can find that i'm doing something wrong of if its just the vinyl. Thanks Again!

yes prepressing for like 20 seconds but it takes me so long to center my desighns with the tee square it may not make any difference

yes i am. even wiping it with a cloth to cool it faster, how long should i wait before peeling mylar for cold peel?

I have my cutter and heat press and usually cut and weed vinyl then of course heatpress to the tee. Recently, with my cutter i found a secret route to screen printing. My only issue is how to cure the ink. I believe i have spent enough on the cutter and heat press and hahaha a flash dryer isnt cheap. I was wondering if that has been heard of using a heat press to cure instead of flash dryer. Or what about a heat gun? Hope so found a good cheap one online..... to be continued i guess.

BEAUTIFUL!!!!!! Thanks!

I'm kind of a newbie. I've made some shirts but getting tired of eyeing it when it comes to centering the graphic on it. Having some probs lookin up the right tools for this job. Any suggestions?

my fav and local dealers are www.jsisigns.com

i've been fighting the cutter a bit but still gettin some work done. I'm having a serious vinyl straightening problem i recently was looking for something else and relized "those round things are endcaps, my problems are over". Well i have no clue how their supposed to go on, and it seems like with the rubber piece on the inside of it but it wont fit with that piece on. When i put the caps on without the rubber piece, yes if fits but doesnt hold the vinyl securely. So i put the rubber pieces behind each end cap and still not cutting straight. I'm i doing something wrong? how can i make the vinyl feed straight forever, i'd like to be able to make my cutter cut 10 of my graphic while i go take a shower or something with no worries. I hope i'm not wrong thinking this is possible. Please Help! it kinda wastes my vinyl also. pcut1200

yes! it worked perfectly with the end caps, i may try the other technique also. Thankyou!

i'm assuming ur connecting by usb. U'll need to check that it has proper communincation between the cutter and pc. It took me a minute but really isnt so bad. Here's a good link: http://support.uscutter.com/index.php?_m=troubleshooter&_a=view

ahhhhh the rubber piece goes on the outside of the cap and is super secure. Will this come out well for, To be continued after the shower tomorrow morning before my 9-5 !!!!!!!!!

I have some nice pieces i need to cut that are already created from photoshop and illustrator. I know what formats can be imported into signblazer but when i try to open a illustrator .ai file it instantly gives a error and closes down. I managed to bypass that problem by changing the file to a .tiff and it imported but no layers. Then had to monochrome the graphic then vectorize. That whole phase cuts out some details of the graphic. Is there a way to import files into signblazer already as vectors? i tried the pen tool and dont know if it will work in eps or ai format as a vector. Please help i thought knew about vector.