LMN8R

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About LMN8R

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  • Birthday 07/31/1987

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    WeMakeItStick.com

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    Male
  • Location
    Idaho
  • Interests
    Having 6 projects going at once..!
  1. The small squares inside the D and O are less than an 1/8th"... Doing pretty well so far.
  2. @darcshadow For sure, I am aware of the various calibrations, but I have a difficult time telling stories, or even getting to the point.. Apparently, lol.... Ive calibrated the scale on VinylMaster before, but was stating in my previous post that I calibrated in SignCut2 aswell now .. Even made the thousands of an inch adjustments to get it are dialed in as good as it can get.. USCutter has now told me that they do have an LP3 in stock and will ship it out.. BUT Come to find out now, after hurrying home from work to dive back into this ordeal, there IS INFACT small slots on the mounting bracket for the grit roller pulley! Their is minimal room for adjustment, but 4 of the 6 holes are slotted. It is not adjusted square to the machine, as in the slots are not centered at all from factory, but it can move. Wife was in charge of trying to set the tension on it. First shot, no good- too tight, our already sketchy sounding feed Rollers made an even worse noise. Backed it off just a smidgen and it's cutting 99% perfect now. Even though all these past 4 days of adjustments have been with a faulty machine.. 100% an issue with the timing belt on the feed Rollers... I've now read that it's even an issue on the high end cutters, but typically shows up after years of wear and tear. USCutter now has the videos of our belt slippage and looseness, and have said they will keep them in their troubleshooting files for other machines. Will post back with some test cuts soon.. Thank you guys and gals for the help...
  3. OK, thanks for that Skeeter. We have a slightly different version I suppose... Just looks a bit different. I figured out what I was seeing with the offset/overcut ratio being in sync. If I adjust offset, it adjusts overcut, every time. But, overcut can then be changed separately. Everytime offset is adjusted, it goes to back to a default scaled ratio overcut value... Took me a minute to figure that out... I did the scale calibration in SignCut last night and determined my 275mm x 275mm square measured about 273.9mm x 275mm. I increased the overcut over the course of the next few test runs on some fonts and got the best results at 273.892 x 275.000 x, y scale calibration, along with .35 offset and .05 offset. Seemed on par for the course! Still some hang ups at the closing points but getting closer. I then orientated the manage 90degees, cutting parallel to the vinyl roll, it cut nearly PERFECT. Almost 100% to my vector. Inage orientated horizontally, no where near the quality of rotating 90degrees. Then attempted to cut a design with dog paw prints. Most of the oval toes did not close right... Right back to square 1. Beginning/Closing points are anywhere from ~.7mm-1mm off of alignment when it comes around to meet. Mind boggling.... In response to @Dakotagrafx last post about the belt being so loose- I'm not sure what's going on there exactly, but it may not be skipping a notch. Just the lack of tightness on it may possibly be giving it that non-precise movement being that it pushes the slack before the metal pulley on the roller shaft moves.. I know that is the case with worn v-belts on our motors at work, so tha what I'm basing that theory on.. Idk anymore.. Also noticed it was about 64 degrees in the office when I started testing last night, and the feed/grit rollers had a dragging sound. It seems to go away after jogging front to back a few times, and perhaps letting bearings warm up.. Not really sure... I failed at getting pics because 2am rolled around too quickly, but here's some video of SignCut 2 and the noisy rollers for entertainment... The paw prints are being cut in the video, with the "cut inner objects first" box checked. Definitely wrong for that design, but exaggerates the roller noise. That design is best cut with just Sorting-width check marked, cuts the best route without excessive forward/back jogging.
  4. Correct DS... I took that picture discussing advanced settings and the check boxes with wildgoose.. Offset and overcut are in the menu tab to the right, Tool Options... I was just posting that to reference Advanced Settings window VS where the offset/overcut are... I'm at work, so don't have any Pic of those settings
  5. Skeeter, that picture was taken shortly after beginning to try SignCut 2. I was on the phone with wildgoose, going through the options. That is not checked now, only cut inner objects first. The help menu doesn't give any direction such as overcut. There is a separate pdf manual for SignCut Pro 2 with 70 pages or so, that discusses scale and offset, but no mention of overcut whatsoever.. The help menu in the software is minimal and discusses primarily connectivity and arms calibration..
  6. Skeeter, it's in the Cutter Spooler window, under Tool Settings. One tab over from Advanced Settings... To get the value to actually change, you have to push Enter or click some where else, just as resizing/scaling image, at which point it scales the offset and overcut both together... Barely downloaded SignCut2 a week ago, starting to figure things out, but maybe I'm missing a checkmark box somewhere..? It's like an 800mb download but free 30 day trial if anyone else wants to check it out? Lol
  7. Thanks Dakota... In SignCut 2,it seems to modify the overcut value in sync with offset.. If i increase the overcut, it then increases the offset. I'm not aware of any check box to stop that scaling effect with it. I believe the offset at .33mm puts an overcut of .20mm by default. VinylMaster doesn't do that and can be adjusted freely, but the cuts are not consistent as they are in SignCut... Here is another cut example with larger true type font with outline... Only horizontal miscuts..
  8. Here are some results after the x, y adjustment in the machine, still unsure if that calibrates anything more than the ARMS laser. Blade is good, pinch rollers are good.. The two pictures with the most weeding done are in SignCut Pro 2 with respective offset. The un-weeded SQ. is from VinylMaster Cut. Have used the "cut inner objects, cut inner holes" settings witn no change to this particular design. Aside from the slightly misaligned closes, again only on the horizontal/X axis cuts, they are looking fairly crisp.. More so in SignCut 2 than VM.. Is there any further adjustments we could try while waiting for the belt? Or are we settling for this result being that these cuts are 0.5" tall? Making the SQ letters right around 1/8" thick. Too tedious for the budget cutter?
  9. There is progress after the machine X,Y re-calibration. This is the VinylMaster calibration. Assumingly, it goes through various offsets and overcuts, and picking the best one gives you a starting point. (I'm sure everyone knows this...) So far it looks like the beginning-end points of the cuts are closer than before. No weird drag at the beginning of the boxes like previous cuts. Still seeing the non-circle oval shapes... If I recall this can be done in VinylMaster with the scale calibration but is there something more to this story...? Thank you all, again....
  10. I happen to come accross the on-machine calibration instructions on USCutters new website, much easier to navigate... It draws an L with the pen tool, and calibrate with the laser. Whether or not this actually calibrates the entire mobo and carriage or just the laser contour side of things, I'm not sure... But with 3 calibrations done, it gives a different value every time. Due to the nature of the ball point pen, I believe the third and final test looked to be to most solid drawing, so we're sticking with the X 0205, Y 1924 values...
  11. Here is the pressure test with the dollar bill. They were set much tighter prior to this method. And the Test cut pics with no computer connected. Machine Test 1 & 2 were just cut at with the new blade adjustment, literally just scratching the surface, but still weeds! Blade tip can't be felt at all with a finger no. The other cuts with the Speed and Pressure notations are from yesterday, prior to the recent adjustments.
  12. Will do, Mike. I was learned to do it with scrap vinyl, but will absolutely do that. Along with blade depth adjustment and using all 3 pinch Rollers, we will perform a few test cuts this evening. Will report back in a few hours with better lighted photos. Thank you all!
  13. I'm really hoping someone with a USCutter model can chime in with a comparison of the grit roller motor belt tension... With what were seeing on the flaws being horizontal, it really makes sense that the belt has so many slack that it's skipping teeth or slipping on the pulley, causing the misalignment... Maybe it's supposed to be extremely loose? My video shows the difference between the two belts, both identical belts. 103 teeth, 10mm width, but the grit roller belt is much more loose. I'm not sure how much the value VS high end cutters differ in regards to the roller motor/belt setup... But if anyone can follow up with a comparison video or something it would be appreciated aswell... Have a belt on order, but still weeks out..
  14. Mike, since owning the cutter yes, but only recently. Per instruction from Peter at USCutter, he began the troubleshooting with tracking issues. At this point, I have loosened them up to the only 0 tension I could really see which was making the threads flush with the tensioner nuts. Then counting half turns outwards until there was no slippage under firm pressure pulling scrap vinyl through them. Currently, I've tightened them up a hair more than that point of no slippage, and ensured all 6 screws are closely matched, and spring compression measures the same. There doesn't seem to be an exact formula for the amount of pressure on them, or how to make sure they're all perfectly in sync, outside of the forum-learned method of pulling scraps through...? I do believe the scientists answering phones are throwing ideas out from the handbook, which we know isn't scientific. I denied the tracking issue as we always pre-feed for the job, and left-right tracking is never more than a 1/16th of an inch. I learned early on not to trust the rulers..
  15. Absolutely Skeeter, thank you, just going off of what I've done. Of course it may not be correct and probably isnt. I'm curious if you would mind posting a picture of your blade depth/exposure from the holder on your setup, just for reference?