ShaneGreen

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About ShaneGreen

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  1. No corta el vinilo

    It looks like the one on my LP2. Can you manually push down on the carriage and it touches the vinyl? It is spring loaded and with just a little pressure should be able to touch the vinyl. Is it marking the vinyl at all or does the blade not touch? Google Translate..... ¿Puedes empujar manualmente hacia abajo el carro y toca el vinilo? Está cargado de resorte y con solo un poco de presión debe poder tocar el vinilo. ¿Está marcando el vinilo o la hoja no toca?
  2. not work, but showing off

    UPDATE - Went into Lowes last night and they had these kind of lumber racks as part of their pallets of Christmas presents. So they are a one-time buy usually. Still had a ton left so they had marked them down to $26. Judging from the weight of the box I think they are going to be pretty heavy duty.
  3. Vinyl won't stick to glass #HELP#

    Windex has ammonia in it and that will mess with the vinyl and adhesive if it hasn't completely been removed. Wash it down with soapy water. Dawn dishsoap cuts the ammonia well.
  4. VinylMaster, I appreciate the CUT specific videos and have been back rewatching them this week. While I haven't run across any of the CUT specific help files, I'm sure when I do I'll be grateful for them. Wildgoose, forgive me if I stirred up trouble, that was not my intent. I was trying to point out that by not specifying which functions went with which version, the videos and help files were making it more difficult to adopt the software and leaving new users very frustrated. I'm going to wander back over to my cluttered corner and go back to figuring out how to manipulate all these pretty little drawings. . .
  5. The first cord I tried on my LP2 had problems. Luckily, I had an 6 footer laying around with ferrite beads on both ends. That did the trick. The ferrite beads, those big lumps of plastic a couple of inches from the end, cut down on stray high frequency noise in the lines. Most of the time when talking about "data loss" the data is still there but other "noise" is making it unusable. Like Mz Skeeter pointed out, the lower end units have cheap chip sets and they probably don't have the capability to filter out the noise. - Use the shortest cord you can get by with. - Make sure it has ferrite beads on both ends. - Keep it away from electric cords. Cross electric cords at a 45 degree angle or larger. Never bundle the two together. - Test it in different USB ports on your computer. Not all the ports are the same. - USB cables are one place not to pinch pennies. Bargain cords often have thinner wire and less shielding = data loss. I've got two 25 foot USBs stretched from my porch out across my yard to a megatree for my Christmas light show. They criss-cross dozens of power cords and terminate in a control box with two power supplies, two micro controllers, 16 relays and 45 Amps of power. . .an EMF nightmare. The data arrives just fine, as long as I follow the guidelines.
  6. Now, THAT'S a wrap !!!!

    Love the "FORTIFIED WITH BUTTER" sign at the lower left. You know, just in case the nurse with the defibrillator didn't get the point across we have a subtle reminder.
  7. Mz Skeeter - It will add a weedbox around the outside. It also has an "Auto Speed-Weed" setting, but it seldom adds anything but text weeding. As VinylMaster says, it looks like the options to do any advanced weeding require the PRO version. The "easy lift-marks" and "perforations" shown in that article aren't available on this version either even though it's an article for "Cut". Slice&Dice - Thanks for the description of why it won't work. That helped clear up the reasoning. VinylMaster - I appreciate you being active on the forums and the sheer amount of instructional information your company puts out there. That being said, your help files are extremely frustrating to use. Why in the world do your instructions not specify which features are available on which software?!?! I am an Engineer who has spent nearly 15 years in manufacturing and the last 15 in application development, so I've read thousands of manuals, tech briefs and sales sheets and have only come across this a handful of times. Combined instruction manuals are nothing new, but they almost always have some sort of icon showing you which version of the product has this feature. It makes for a great subliminal sales tool, each time I look for help I'm told all the benefits of upgrading. Instead, VinylMaster has opted for a "figure it out for yourself" approach that leaves me scratching my head wondering if I'm doing it wrong or if that feature isn't available to me. Before asking this question I went to the help manual and read the entry "Speed and Weed Boxes." Instead of "here is what Cut can do and look what you can do if you upgrade to PRO," I spent 20 minutes trying to find commands and double-clicks that don't exist in my version. I walked away from my desk completely frustrated and wondering how long it would take to install SignBlazer.
  8. I've watched a hundred videos, read tutorials, searched the forum, yet I can't seem to figure out how to properly add extra weed lines. As an example, lets say I'm cutting out a really detailed image in VinylMaster Cut. I've added a weed box to the image with "Objects > Add A weed box". I find after trying to weed the first one that if I ever want to cut it again I need to add a weed line from the green circle to the blue star. And then add weed lines from the objects to the weed box. So I need to add the three red lines shown. I've tried to use the line drawing tool, but can't seem to make the end nodes snap to the existing objects. So when it cuts the new lines either A) the lines don't connect to the object or B ) they slice into the circle and star. I have "Arrange > Snap To > All" checked, but there doesn't seem to be any snapping taking place. What am I missing here?
  9. The LPII has an endstop at both ends and yes, it's green on my unit. I just checked and mine will make the "test" cut from the cutter's control panel even without the usb cord plugged in. Try unplugging the usb and turn it back on and see if you can run the test cut from the cutter's control panel. If it still doesn't cut, then we can rule out the USB/computer as the problem.
  10. Does this Vinyl Exist?

    Some of the Oracal 951 metallics sure look like they boarder on glitter. Not "look at my new bass boat" glittery, but they are awful sparkly.
  11. name the location game

    Northern Illinois. A little farm town called Seneca. There were a lot of tiny communities nearby with Nordic type names like; Stavanger, Norway, Kinsman, etc. I don't recall any of them actually having churches or steeples like that, though. I saw them in pictures, books and such.
  12. name the location game

    That style steeple is used by a lot of Nordic cultures. We had a strong Norwegian and Swedish population where I grew up and though there weren't any churches like that in the area, I remember seeing them in pictures on their walls. The extremely steep roof is common in those regions too, to shed snow loads.
  13. not work, but showing off

    Thanks Primal. Centurytel internet and it's been a mess for over a week now. Today I'm getting partially loaded pages, if they load at all. Took ten minutes just to load half that page, so I couldn't see any of that information. Uggggg. . . .done venting for now. I return you to your regularly scheduled forum.
  14. not work, but showing off

    Love this idea! Grizzly Tools has them here in the US for $27 and has 12 bars. I think you can order additional bars, but my internet connection sucks right now. http://www.grizzly.com/products/Lumber-Rack-6-Shelf-System/T27630
  15. High temp vinyl

    I used own a powdercoat shop and was surprised to find that a good outdoor vinyl would hold up fine in the oven. I didn't have a cutter at the time and a local sign shop cut me a number of flames out of scrap he had. A couple things to watch: - very thin pieces may start to curl up in the oven. Make your designs chunky. - The adhesive can be hard to get off. I was doing ghost flames so I had to do a first coat with the decal on, remove the decal and do a second coat. If there is any residue left the powder will flake off when it's baked. - Watch for hotspots in your oven. The vinyl will shrink a little and a hot spot will make it shrink a lot and possibly curl. My oven was 4x4x6ft and I had to use the fan to keep the heat even enough for the vinyl to not curl.