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ShaneGreen last won the day on November 8 2018

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  1. ShaneGreen

    Precision template design...where to start

    Most, if not all, of the cutlery and knife manufacturers have been designing with solid modeling for 20+ years. I don't recall the name of the function now, but unfolding and flattening the design is pretty simple and is perfect for a project like this. They can then export it in a file format you can use. It can't be too difficult, because they never complained when I'd ask for one. All of the tooling, jigs and fixtures I had to design as standard, flat blueprints as most of them where still manually made. The marketing department would have them convert the solid models to "3D" perspective illustrations for ads. The folks who designed packaging, well they literately took a flat blueprint and cut out a chunk of wood on a bandsaw for their mockups. I'd ask to talk to one of their draftsman and explain that what you want. It should be quick and painless.
  2. ShaneGreen

    VM cut error shut down pop up

    I tried Adobe Bridge for a while and spent the a lot of time cussing it. If I added a new sub-directory it didn't always find it, which is a really weird problem for a piece of software to have. Then it would gobble up resources and bring my system to a standstill once or twice a day. I tried reinstalling, but it didn't help. I really wanted it to work, but in the end I began to wonder if it was written for a Mac and ported to PC. Maybe I'll give it a try again one of these days.
  3. I was just using the reflective as an example. It being constructed the way it is, it has a tendency to delaminate if you do it wrong, which makes it easy to see that you're doing something wrong. I learned the right way through a few very expensive lessons. No matter what type of vinyl you are using, ALWAYS remove the backing paper from the vinyl & transfer tape. Never try to "lift the vinyl" from the backing paper. It may seem like two ways of saying the same thing, but it isn't. Peeling the backing paper back over the top of itself and sliding it off is the correct way to do it. Someone on here once gave a great description and I wish I could find it. Let me see if I can do it justice... A. The adhesive on the vinyl has to be strong enough to permanently stick to the final surface (rear window, wall, bumper, mug, etc.). B. The adhesive on the vinyl has to be week enough to release from the backing paper. To help this, the backing paper has a slightly waxy finish. This bond is also designed to release when the angle of force is greater than 90 degrees, so pulling the backing paper back over the top of itself goes way past 90 degrees. Simply put, you can't pull the two slices of bread apart on a grilled cheese sandwich because all of that gooey cheese across both surfaces is fighting against you. But if you grab one corner and peel it back you are only fighting the thin line where it's trying to separate. C. The transfer tape adhesive must be weaker than the bond between the vinyl and the final surface (bond A). If not, then you'd never get the vinyl to release from the transfer tape. D. The transfer tape adhesive must be stronger than the bond between the vinyl and the backing paper (bond B ) Logic says that the transfer tape can't be both weaker than and stronger than at the same time. Two things allow this: 1) The substrates. The adhesive has to stick better to the final surface than it does the backing paper, hence the waxy surface. 2) The removal force. Bonds A & C are almost always fighting forces applied to the vinyl at 90 degrees or less which is where they are the strongest. Bonds B & D are broken at an angle greater than 90. . . by folding the backing paper back over itself and that's where the bond is weakest. But if you try to break Bonds B & D by pulling up the transfer tape and vinyl you aren't passing 90% and you're fighting the strongest bond.
  4. Keep in mind that the transfer tape should NOT "lift the vinyl." The backing paper should be peeled away from the vinyl. And be sure that you're pulling at a much larger than 90 degree angle...the backing paper that has released should almost be touching the backing paper that still needs to come off. It makes a huge difference on some vinyls and colors. I've got some Oracal 5600 white reflective laying here and reflective is sort of two-ply. The backing paper and adhesive are stuck to the bottom reflective layer and then the top layer is a semi-transparent colored vinyl. If you try to "lift the vinyl" with the transfer tape you'll end up with spots where the reflective layer stays stuck to the backing paper. At the price of reflective you'll learn that lesson real quick.
  5. ShaneGreen

    VM cut error shut down pop up

    I started doing my design work in Inkscape, but when I updated to VM Pro I don't seem to have a reason to open Inkscape much any more. It should be noted that I'm not a very good designer and have the artistic skills of an arthritic orangutan. Someone who can actually draw might not find VM to have enough options. Once I get in image the way I like it I usually save an extra copy as an SVG just as a backup. I'm always leery of any proprietary format. I ended up with 10 years of cad drawings that couldn't be opened after a computer crash left me without CadKey97 and noting on the market that supported it anymore. So there's my paranoia, that, and the native vdoc aren't viewable as thumbnails in other programs. If you save your designs to another directory besides the location of the actual program files it shouldn't be a problem to uninstall. When you install it probably went to a directory like.... c://Program Files (x86) / FutureCorp / Vinylmaster / But when I save an image I use one of the "This PC" folders, like Documents/VinylCutter/ArtWork Just be sure to do an actual "uninstall" and don't delete it.
  6. ShaneGreen

    VM cut error shut down pop up

    I didn't loose any files uninstalling. But you might want to back them up. I keep all my work files in a different directory than the program files.
  7. ShaneGreen

    VM cut error shut down pop up

    Try uninstalling and then download a new copy and install it. Be sure to save your Product ID or whatever they call it. I had a problem for a short while where VM would shut down about once an hour. I downloaded a new copy and reinstalled and haven't had an issue in over a year.
  8. ShaneGreen

    Stuck Waiting after cut....

    Usually that would mean either an overloaded memory or a communication hang up. Shutting off a plotter will usually reset both. I've never had a problem with overloading the memory buffer on my LP2. It's cut jobs that took over two hours. And It's not uncommon for me to go all day, sending dozens of cutfiles to it without an error. I used to turn it off between orders, but found it wasn't necessary. Then again, I use VinylMaster Pro and I'm not sure how the different software manufacturers handle buffer clean up. So unless it's a ginourmous file, I'd suspect a communication problem. Try Mz Skeeter's advice and get a Tripp-Lite Keyspan Adapter, it seems to solve most usb chipset issues. You might also try just changing out the usb cord and making sure that you don't have a bunch of excess software running. I tested out a high-end thumbnail viewer for a while, but found that when it was open my HP printer would lock up with a waiting error. The viewer was chewing up resources .
  9. ShaneGreen

    Setting Blade Holder Into Cutter

    Nice description Cardudenc. Just an FYI for someone using another type of plotter, double check what the white pinch roller decals indicate on your machine. On your Seiki and SC it's where NOT to place the pinch rollers since there is no grit roller under the decal. However, on an LPII and some other machines the white decals show you where the grit rollers are. LPII pinch rollers have to be UNDER the decal.
  10. ShaneGreen

    Vinyl Master Pro

    "Group" makes them one big basket of parts that is treated as a whole. But they can later be "ungrouped". ie. "Kids, get in the van." "Weld" permanently joins them. ie. "you've got simese twins." Ok, that's a horrible anology. . .
  11. ShaneGreen

    Vinyl Master Pro

    In VM you would select the word "Police" and the black bar. Then "weld". This will make it all one big piece. "Weld" is found in the side menu, near the bottom. The icon is two white, overlapping boxes. That will open the shaping and welding tools.
  12. ShaneGreen

    Vinyl Cuter Cutting Sloppily (Circles look like Ovals)

    On a lot of plotters you can substitute a pen adapter by wrapping some masking tape around an ordinary pen until it's thick enough for the carriage to hold it firmly. Ultra fine point Sharpies do a nice job.
  13. ShaneGreen

    Vinyl Cuter Cutting Sloppily (Circles look like Ovals)

    Looking at the ovals/circles, they look to be uniform. Are they all turning out the same? If they are consistent, but not accurate, then that rules out a lot of possible issues. For instance, if some were almost round but others were egg shaped then it might be a problem with the material feeding, but if they are all identically egg shaped then it's not a material feed problem.
  14. ShaneGreen

    show your picture

    The wife, I and both kids this Christmas. Emptynesters now, so it was nice having them home!
  15. ShaneGreen

    Noob Questions

    Slice&Dice, I use 60 CleanCuts on everything. They make a much better cut then the 45s.