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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/19/2023 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    Jimbo, you got a solution that was offered 15 years ago, which is a fine testament to the effectiveness of these Forums and its Search functionality. By the way, 'mobby' was one of the most-well-versed people regarding SignBlazer, as he was personally familiar with the developer (Jerry Bonham). All of that is water under the bridge, of course, but it's great to see people are still able to obtain "Help" on a program that's long since been abandoned in the marketplace.
  2. 2 points
    DXF files are not really cutter friendly. They look like a constant line, but they are actually several line segments and are typically not joined. VM can't do a contour, because it doesn't see a shape to contour cut around. You will need to join all the segments in order to create a shape. I might be as simple as joining the 3 areas circled below or you might need to join every single little line segment. Some software has the ability to automatically join line segments that are close enough, although this can give some funky results some times. I believe Inkscape has this ability. If you can get the file as an eps, ai, or svg rather than a dxf that would be the easiest way to go.
  3. 2 points
    Update! Since we're in Hawai'i, Graphtec recommended that we check with a local authorized repair shop rather than send the whole thing to continental US. We called up the recommended shop and after hearing of our issue asked, "when did you last replace the plunger?" They noted that those can stop working, preventing the blade from spinning/rotating. We ordered a new plunger from them and we're back in business! We finished out the 15mil synthetic job and are getting through the 10mil job as I write this. The old plunger has been marked and is still good enough for most of our paper jobs. I did let the boss know about the other blades you folks recommended. Thank you
  4. 2 points
    . Has this cutter ever cut correctly? Is it new or used? Your cutter is a value cutter with a cheap Chinese chipset on it,, will take a bit of fine tuning to cut correctly. Best to use with a Tripplite Keyspan Adapter and your null modem cable. Setting your blade depth correctly is the first thing you have to get correct, You do not use the depth of a credit card or post it notes. That is way too much blade exposed out of the blade holder. You set the blade depth to the vinyl you will be cutting.( Instructions below). For blade offset, start at 0.25mm and adjust at 0.05 to be correct. Show your test cuts from the TEST cut feature on the machine. That has to be correct first, before you cut anything. Square should be square. You could also ad a little overcut in your cutting software, but that is not going to fix what you have going on. You have to start with the correct blade depth first. this info has been posted on here hundreds and hundreds of times, it applies to any brand of vinyl cutter, except a Graphtec has a ZERO blade offset. Something that you will have to do if you haven't, if that cutter is on a stand, it needs grounded to the stand, or static from the vinyl, will stop the cutter. The tracking is not good on those cutters for larger designs. The memory is also not good for larger designs. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade tip out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade. When you think the blade is so far in the blade holder, that you think it would not even cut, that is probably correct.
  5. 2 points
    I'm assuming poll size tells the machine to measure the paper? You still have to remember there is going to be unusable space at the end of the paper that the rollers hold onto and the machine is not going to account for this because in the vinyl world you don't worry about how much vinyl is at the end, you are just going to cut it off and continue to use the roll. You are trying to use the machine as a plotter, which is not what it was designed for and thereby missing some of the abilities a true plotter would have. You seem to be getting pretty close to your goal, but as you've discovered it's just going to be a matter of trial and error to find the settings and conditions that work for you.
  6. 2 points
    I have never tried to draw on sheets or ever use sheets with my Graphtec. But have you calibrated the cutter to the cutting software? As in cut/draw a 3" x 3" square and make sure that it measures exactly at 3" x 3"? That adjustment is in Resolution. Mine is set at 1016 in/steps. I have a FC7000 and FC8000. but the same adjustment is made in Resolution in my cutting software.. I use Flexi software. And Graphtec Pro Studio, which is also Flexi software. So you are putting your cutter head exactly where you want it and you are pushing the ORIGIN button on the cutter? You must push the Origin button before sending a job. That Origin point is the measuring point for your design. Most people here are cutting vinyl on 15"-30" wide vinyl rolls. Only a couple hand fulls answer questions. Your cutter will not cut past the pinch rollers unless, you use expand or turn off the pinch roller sensor. I don't know of anyone on here, doing what you are trying to do.
  7. 2 points
    APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR DECAL 1. Clean window or desired smooth surface to remove dirt, grime... (70% ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL) Do not use Windex or other similar ammonia-based product, as it leaves a trace behind that is not suitable for decal applications 2. Remove and discard decal backing material (white paper) ---- peel away carefully, making sure the decal stays on the clear "transfer tape" HINT: Don't take the tape away from the backing, but rather, take the paper away from the tape. 3. With the backing paper completely removed from the decal & transfer tape, gently place the decal with the sticky transfer tape onto the surface of the glass (or other desired smooth substrate) in the position you want the decal to be and rub it down lightly with your hand --- be careful, once it's down, it's down ! 4. Take a credit card and use the edge as a squeegee to firmly wipe over the surface of the transfer tape to affix the decal onto the glass or substrate. The decal adhesive is activated by strong pressure. 5. Finally, peel off the transfer tape gently, at a 45-degree angle. The decal will adhere to the surface, but make sure that the decal remains stuck onto the glass and doesn't come back up ---- sometimes you have to 'coax' it from letting go of the transfer tape. 6. Your decal installation is complete. If there are bubbles present under the decal that cannot be removed by working them to the edge, a small needle or pin can be used to puncture the bubble and remove the trapped air
  8. 2 points
    I cut stencils from time to time out of used carrier sheet and have found that applying a couple layers of transfer paper to the back side to act as a cutting mat works pretty good.
  9. 1 point
    My cutter appears to be one of the numerous re-branded versions of the ct630. It's currently running v2.01 firmware and generally seems to work ok but i am a n00b at using vinyl cutters. I have my own eprom burner - so while it's not worth it to me to pay for a programmed chip with unknown improvements, I'm curious enough that if i can get an image of the firmware i think it would be neat to see what the difference may be.
  10. 1 point
    Although you did the letters from scratch, it might be useful to investigate the cost of these size letters from Woodland. That way, you'll know what the price of individual plastic letters are to the average Joe who doesn't have the capabilities to cut them out of wood with a CNC machine. When I quote a job for dimensional lettering, I'll triple the price they charge for just the letters, and then factor in the install process (affixing the template & drilling holes for the mounting studs into the wall). Placing these neatly aligned onto a wall is the main challenge, depending on how high up they're going to be. In most cases, a man-lift or bucket-truck is preferable, although I have seen it done with straight ladders, which is a PIA.
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    Good morning, Seattle. A few questions for you ---- what was your wife intending to accomplish with a cutter? When you say it's "too much" are you referring to the overall size? What made you believe your spouse was requiring a cutter at all? Also, there is a section of these Forums dedicated to Buy, Sell, and Trade which would be the logical place to post your offer. Beyond that, try Facebook/Meta marketplace (or Craigslist, if you dare) and make sure the price is right. There are SC2 machines as low as $340 from the USCUTTER warehouse, so your offer to sell should be less than that. I'm thinking around $250 is in the ballpark. You don't mention here, but when advertising, don't forget to mention it comes with a fresh (Unregistered) copy of VinylMasterCUT. I will say one more thing. When someone comes to look at it to buy, they'll want to see it working, not just sitting there with a zip-tie (anyone can zip-tie a broken/malfunctioning unit and say it's 'new' ). In order to provide a live-action demonstration, download and install SignBlazer Elements and choose LiYu as the cutter model, which will get the cutter to respond. Good luck.
  13. 1 point
    If I am cutting stencils I include a box around the design at the outer limits so I get the right amount of clearance around the edges. Works every time without having to remember anything fancy. Especially nice when you do another one a year later.
  14. 1 point
    These cutters are not designed to cut through material, they need something on the back side to support the material being cut, ie vinyl. They make cutting mats that you can stick your material to so that the cutter can cut all they way through yet still have a "backing" that holds everything in place. Why are you cutting through the vinyl and backing?
  15. 1 point
    I also think that the best option is to use a heat gun! And of course it's easier to buy a new vinyl!
  16. 1 point
    Here is the thread that people posted of work spaces, a while back.
  17. 1 point
    There is already a thread here that people showed their shops, you will have to find it. Also, there is only a couple handfuls of forum members that answer questions anymore. I never went small. I started with large graphics and never looked back. My average is 20" wide by 8 feet. L. Clear up to 27" w x 16 feet .L. I prefer making my money fast. Less work, more pay. Large detailed graphics is my niche' I work out of a 13' x 14' bedroom, 8 ft table, 30" cutter, old XP laptop. I have been at it for 16 years, online only. Good luck.
  18. 1 point
    Biggest problems Newbies encounter is setting the blade depth correctly. Too many wrong instructions out there. Don't use instructions that have to do with a credit card thickness or post it notes. They are wrong. Vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick, so you only cut with the very tip of the blade. Blade depth has to be set correctly before any other settings. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade out of the blade holder Make sure the carriage head wheels are firmly in the track. Never be pulling vinyl from the roll, always enough slack to do the order. Make sure blade holder is firmly down in the carriage arm. If you had the blade too far out, make sure you haven't broken the tip off.
  19. 1 point
    Well...the forum sheriffs have removed the bandit text & link! Thanks! Sue2
  20. 1 point
    Wow...first post and reviving a dead thread!
  21. 1 point
    I found this used cutter for sell. I see its a cutter and printer. did a lil online research, saw most complaint was for the cost of using it for printing and heads going bad. can anyone school me on this machine? ins and outs and what would be a decent price if its a decent cond and working machine. owner told me he never used the printing feature
  22. 1 point
    As long as your clean the heads after every print it`s all good. Still running one that i`ve had for 8 years. mark-s
  23. 1 point
    A couple example pictures would go a long way for opinions.........BUT it doesn't sound like i would be happy with it either......
  24. 1 point
    I've done many full color wraps NON PERFORATED and haven't had an issue 1 doing them wet..... Soak it down, position it, squeegee the snot out of it as you heat, not a problem at all... Never a wrinkle or complaint.......
  25. 1 point
    I would say yes, Greenstar is a cheaper vinyl, A good name brand vinyl would be a good way to set up your machine..