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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/27/2021 in Posts

  1. 4 points
    Greatly depends on what/where it's being installed. There's no generic answer. In some cases having a border or some sort of straight edge is very handy, others it draws attention if not lined up perfectly.
  2. 3 points
    You can recolor your white stripes to something else, you're using will vectorize it, or just add your own line pre or post vectorizing.
  3. 3 points
    I have been using Main paper tape for years. Perfectear. I started with R-tape, I got a roll of Main and never looked back. I just like the way feels and rolls out out better. I get mine from a dealer in Michigan. But UScutter sells it also. Company called Nekoosa owns it now. https://uscutter.com/shop/?search_query=perfectear
  4. 3 points
    Hi thanks I tried that, just by doing the outline but it just looks inflated and the original letter stays the same size which is not 1/2 inch. Found another way by making 1/2inch rectangle shapes and stretching the length and angle to fit into each letter. Which is good in one way as it tells you the length of each one and the Led neon can only be cut at 1 inch spacing. For any of the curved sections it was a case of using the elliptical tool to make a shape which fitted perfect and then making a duplicate and then grabbing the corners to make a smaller version. Then a bit of node editing and weld them together. All a bit long winded
  5. 3 points
    Subscription vs buying comes down to how often is the software updated, and how often do you buy the update. Me personally, I prefer buying. If I get software that does what I need and works, I see no point in upgrading and introducing a new world of things to learn and/or not work. I still use a program from the late 90s simply because it works and newer version have gotten way more complicated than what I need. However, if you're one of those that has to have the latest and greatest a subscription can work out to be cheaper in the long run and you'll be sure to always have the newest version as well as the tech support that comes along with it.
  6. 3 points
    Die cutting is not done with a blade, it is done with a die and a press. Blade life will be shortened when cutting harder material. 60 degree blade is recommended for thicker material and several on here use them for everything.
  7. 3 points
    BigLodgeTypeFree (Regular) is what you seek. mark-s
  8. 3 points
    Judging from that photo I would disagree. If the blade is set correctly it is impossible to cut into the backing paper as seen in your photo.
  9. 3 points
    I run both my LaserPoint and Graphtec from an (old) MacPro (intel), MacBook Pro (intel), and Mac Mini (M1). All through Parallels. The Intel-based machines are running Win7, because that's my preference, the M1 runs Win10. The only issue that I've run into, is the LaserPoint on the new M1 machine, but it runs the Graphtec CE6000-60 Plus just fine. I can run the Graphtec Studio natively in Mac OS, and can run Graphtec Pro Studio and SignBlazer in Win7&10.
  10. 3 points
    I figured out the issue. When in doubt reinstall VM, and install your new cutter upon it asking you when going over adding your cutter.
  11. 3 points
    My two concern with not taping is scratching it during install and flimsiness of untaped vinyl. If you have a good felt squeegee though the risk of scratching should be minimal. And If the design isn't too big working directly with vinyl shouldn't be too big a deal. Give it a try. Worst that can happen is you mess up the vinyl and you have to do it again.
  12. 3 points
    Suptac is calendared vinyl, according to what I looked up online. Using App-tape is the rule, of course, but if he's careful he can peel this thing directly from the backing and drop it. Hey, dakota, with inflation running so high these days, you should up that to a nickle.
  13. 3 points
    Personally I would tape it to make sure there is no stretching and protect it when applied. A 7 year cast is pretty thin and easily stretched . Just my 2 cents
  14. 2 points
    Aloha and welcome to the forum. Outside of the pending roller issue, the Graphtecs are solid machines.
  15. 2 points
    To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade tip out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade. When you think the blade is so far in the blade holder, that you think it would not even cut, that is probably correct.
  16. 2 points
    hotrodz0321 my biggest advice is have a good tax accountant help you stay out in front of the tax burden. You will probably see a significant jump in earned income through your new venture. Also if you have not been collecting sales tax (assuming your state does that like most) be prepared to toe the line. I almost went down the first year I got some big contracts. With new equipment purchases you have a great write-off but after this tax season you may find yourself surprised how much money uncle sam takes if you don't have significant purchses to write off next year set some money aside. Most tax accountants can work you a forecast and you can and should pay quarterly estimates if it will be a lot of money. Not sure what Florida tax laws are like so gettting some sound advice from a good tax man would be smart. I can't give you much help on the printer. I've talked myself out of them several times just due to the need to keep them busy. My business model has shifted away from sign vinyl and I do primarily aparrel work now so the need for a printer has dropped.
  17. 2 points
    Danny, please start your own thread. When you do, indicate what software you are using (VinylMaster is preferred, and SignBlazer will also suffice --- RedSail driver --- but you are saying Corel with plugins, which is not really an ideal method for MH series units with their serial emulation chipset). Also, you indicate that the cutter completes a full cut, then fails, can you be more detailed in what you were doing when that occurs? When you say "6 different drivers" can you explain what this means? Finally, there is no such thing as 'printouts' when describing plotter activity.
  18. 2 points
    Thanks. I don't plan on holding on to them. It's just going to be a quick as possible turnaround time for me, then all 300 decals to the customer. I'm not sure how long it's going to sit on their shelves. Nothing I can do about that though. Sometimes I wish I had more business to turnover my inventory faster, but then I think it would feel more like a regular job and might suck all the fun out of it for me Clearly I've been self-employed way too long. Hahaha.
  19. 2 points
    Well said, and I totally agree. Auto update anything can be the bane of my existence ... for example, when Win10 auto updates, and then nothing connected works after that.
  20. 2 points
    Just to follow up on 3 different items, to hopefully help many others having some of these issues. 1) MzSkeeter is absolutely correct the USB Serial chip set in the SC2 is pretty bad. I installed one of my industrial converters and it never buzzed or lost position again. Since the entire file is sent to the cutter, I can only imagine it becomes corrupt or missing portions due to the bad transfer. I've been thru this before when our techs go to Walmart and buy converters then corrupt everything. 2) 4 items must be done. A) Do the initial laser pointer alignment when you power up the cutter and pressing the right arrow. This is a little hard because the jog mode moves pretty fast. Get it as close as you can. Then B. Spooler, Calibration, Do the Blade Offset C) the scaling, then do D) ARMS Offset. Yes, Arms Offset. It allows you to really zero in the laser with 4 points. 3) When you choose the contour wizard, you have 3 modes to choose from. Manual, Semi-Automatic, and ARMS. Choose semi-automatic. Once you do that, you can put in your material, jog to the square by the alignment mark and press origin. Then when you select cut, it will tell you to do the origin deal that you just did, press next. The cutter and laser will turn on and tell you to align with mark 1 using the keys on the cutter, then press enter. It will rapid over to mark 2, and repeat for all 4 marks. It will ask if you want to cut now, say yes. It will do a perfect contour cut. There are about 3 versions of instructions floating around. Use the link MZSkeeter provided. Pay close attention to Step 2 and Step 6 because it's different than what in the user manual. Here is two sources for using ARMS OFFSET calibration in VM4.3. Tony is a developer at future for VinylMaster. Subject: RE: VM 4.3 Software Arrow keys in Calibration dont work [#335478] Date: Tue, 7 Dec 2021 17:24:40 +1100 From: Tony Braun <tonybraun@iifutu******> To: 'Richard Skinner' Ok, your cutter does not support moving the cutter head using the software. It must be done using the arrow keys on the cutter. To calibrate, you use the ARMS calibration, NOT the laser calibration. Peter M. (USCutter) Dec 7, 2021, 14:54 PST There are three likely reasons that you can see a cut not match up with a print when contour cutting: 1. The blade offset hasn't been calibrated correctly. If you are using VinylMaster software you can go in the Calibration section of the Vinyl Spooler and click the "ARMS Offset" button. Edited - Inserted for brevity: --> Then Peter talks about blade offset and scaling to be calibrate as well
  21. 2 points
    Download the FREE trial. New users may blame a software for their problems, until they learn the software. So, you can learn it before you get the real version. VinylMaster has great support. Check out the VinylMaster forum. VinylMaster.com Read thru the VinylMaster threads. That is all that we can read. You are posting to a Titan Vinyl cutter thread.
  22. 2 points
    Mom22boys, I would remove your motherboard and check if it matches the image provided on the USCUTTER ordering page -- chances are it won't. (My MH, for instance, didn't have the COM ports attached as the one pictured does). Anyway, they want just $300 for a refurbished one, complete, but the cost is about $100 for just the replacement MB. I cannot imagine a difference of $200 being worthwhile to get an MH unit running (maybe, no guarantees), especially when you have a ton of work ahead. Perhaps you can spring for a different machine (SC2) to 'put under' your Christmas tree this year, and thank Santa for providing you with a new unit that will be a substantial improvement over the MH? Meanwhile, here's a little gift from me to you --- Holiday FontDings. https://www.fontspace.com/category/christmas,dingbats
  23. 2 points
    Kind of sounds like you need a new motherboard. Does the head move using the onboard control panel?
  24. 2 points
    I went back and downloaded ver. 2.90 has the reg marks put them in and it worked great. Now why would they change this is my question?? Thanks everyone for your help. Jeff
  25. 2 points
    SC2 will not print, ever --- you are right about that.