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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/03/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Thought Id throw out this idea if you haven't seen them yet. There are lots of versions on Facebook right now. These are what I'm selling. I've sold quite a few in 4 different schools. Luckily, I had a good supply of colors and signs ready.
  2. 5 points
  3. 5 points
    If I were you, I'd install it dry. There are too many thin strips in that decal and the wet method could cause problems if the glass is wet. Use the hinge method by putting a strip of masking tape on the top edge. Tape it to the window by the masking tape on the top, making sure the decal is positioned where you want it. Lift the decal up from the bottom, start peeling the backing paper off of the top but don't take it all the way off. Fold the backing paper down to the bottom edge , holding the decal off of the window with one hand. Start squeegeeing the decal down from the top with the other hand. As you get closer to where the backing is folded, pull it down some more and squeegee more. Once you have the backing pulled down to a comfortable level you can pull it off the rest of the way and finish squeegieeing the decal.
  4. 5 points
  5. 4 points
    3 things is how do you plan to differentiate yourself from the hundreds of other people doing the same thing? have you researched problems with vinyl adhering to things like rough surfaces, easy clean paints and how do you plan to deal with those issues? do you plan on using non trademarked material to avoid legal issues? just observations from watching many many others go down that same road before you
  6. 4 points
    I received the support message from VM today. They explained the process for others that want to know how to do this. In the Contour Cutting Wizard, select your make and model of cutter and set it to automatic (ARMS). Then select the ‘Mark Options’ tab and select the number of vertical marks to suit the job. Adding more marks will increase the amount of measurements your ARMS will make increasing your contour cut accuracy. Thank you to those who posted. I hope this helps the others looking for this feature.
  7. 4 points
    In VinylMaster; When you Vector the Shape, be sure and tick the Boxes as shown Circled in Red. This will leave your new Vector Shape sitting squarely on top of your Bitmap Flower image. " Menu> Order> To Back " will leave you in with something similar to Figure A. Grab The Circle/ Ellipse Tool and create a Circle Directly over the center of your Flower. ( shown here in Yellow ) Select (click on) toy Raster (bitmap) Original Flower Line Drawing and Delete. This will leave you something like Figure B, here with Leaves Colored Yellow. You can then send to your Plotter and Cut each Color Separately. Pro Tip: If you would rather not Stack the 2 Layers (Single Layer Application), Trim the one layer against the other (or Punch with a Duplicate) and add a Welded Stroke for Overlap.
  8. 4 points
    I created these signs for businesses remaining open during the crisis.
  9. 4 points
    Great idea.... I've been trying to come up with a humorous t-shirt concerning the virus....THAT could work! I'm wearing my "Patience Tested" t-shirt today....it's appropriate as business is near nil!
  10. 4 points
    Google (images) is your Friend.
  11. 4 points
    Yes, I used Inkscape exclusively for quite awhile. It's not an ideal cutting program but it has the advantage of being able to specify an overcut which Signblazer did not have and with the MH a slight overcut is practically a necessity. I think it was introduce in 0.91, under extension -> export -> plot. If you don't have that option, install the latest version. Once to the Plot screen, there are 3 tabls, Connections settings, Plotter Settings and Plot features. Connection settings are your comm port settings. I am lucky and actually have a serial port on my computer. If you do not have one a tripp-lite usb-2-serial adapter is recommended. Figure out what comm port you have your cutter connected to and set that as well as the speed, etc. The command language is HPGL. Once you get that setup, you'll want to cut some test squares (or use the pen attachment and some paper). Under Plotter Settings, you can change the DPI. The default settings are 1000 DPI for both x and y. That will be close but may not be exact. Draw a 10" square, measure it and adjust the DPI to correct for any size error. I have also set my rotation to 90, this makes the bottom right corner of the drawing the origin point. This makes the most sense to me with regards to the cutter output. It's up to you and makes no real difference. Lastly, under Plot Features you want to add some overcut, 1mm is a good place to start. The knife offset will also need to be adjusted 0.25 is a good starting point as well. Do a search on here for setting offset and you'll find several post explaining how to make the adjustments. There is also an inkscape cutting tool called Inkcut. It is a stand alone program that uses Inkscape. I've played with it a little but found it annoying and was just easier for me to cut straight from Inkscape.
  12. 4 points
    www.whatfontis.com can be helpful for Free and Find My Font is worth its weight in Coin too.
  13. 4 points
    It looks like a Laserpointer 11. There are videos on youtube of it. It can be searched.. If her computer is still around and she was using it, her software should be there.
  14. 4 points
    I still wanted to answer “sticky side down”. But knew I would get yelled at
  15. 4 points
    Here are a few hats I made. Real leather engraved and cut on the laser. I glued it on with E6000.
  16. 4 points
    It's been alittle while..... I haven't really been doing much. Mostly just made the garage signs over the Holidays. But I did get asked to make a cool sign for a friend of mine. Every year they go to the Rolex24 and park in the Porsche Corral. My Friend takes his Porsche 928 and has a full bar in the back during the race. This year I had 2 days to make a sign for him. I used some cherry wood engraved and cut on the laser and adhered it to a piece of acrylic I cut on the laser also. Everyone loved it, and NBC sports actually had an interview with my buddy about BAR 928 and had the sign on national TV.
  17. 4 points
    I like the 15" rolls because it gives you a little wiggle room for large designs. Shirt designs are usually no bigger than 11" but occasionally I've done some that are right at 12". And I can usually fit other items/designs in the extra space so I rarely waste the extra few inches. Buying by the foot is good for colors/designs you don't plan to use often, but I would get one of the longer rolls for the big colors you'll use. White and Black are good colors for buying a 10 yrd or longer roll. Siser Easyweed is a great all around HTV. Siser also has several more specialized HTVs that are quite good as well.
  18. 4 points
    we all get snippy from time to time but now and then some friends remind me to be civil when I have an off day. I agree that with 4 years and a shop this is a simple everyday type item that a crafter might not know but we have to remain civil. with that said it shouldn't be long before I fall off the wagon after checking someone else :O
  19. 4 points
    Kerning is the spacing between individual characters (letters, number, symbols) in any text
  20. 4 points
    Signblazer and Inkscape are free
  21. 4 points
    would think that they saved enough the first time having aunt jean with her cricut do it and would want to do it right this time
  22. 4 points
    This is a Dollar Tree aluminum water bottle I sandblasted a few years ago. 150 grit AO @ 45psi.
  23. 3 points
    I've been using a plastic letter opener to slice my vinyl off the cutter.
  24. 3 points
    QUOTE> "My fonts (text) are cutting three times, ~almost~ every letter. I do I fix this and clean it up." Odd that it's 'ALMOST' every letter... Are you trying to (Auto) Vector Existing Letters or Create them from Scratch? (ALWAYS better, if possible, to Create New Text & Avoid Vectoring Existing Text) AND> "It does have multiples copies stacked on some but can't get them off. I tried to ungroup and all it says is to group." Perhaps you can Group them then Weld them to Create a Single Cut Line ?
  25. 3 points
    If you have never ran a vinyl cutter before, then don't start with cutting a design. First you need to start with the TEST feature and set your vinyl cutter up. That is what the TEST feature is for. You have to set your blade depth, blade offset, and force first. Then type some text on your layout screen directly from the software and cut it. We don't know what kind of design you are cutting or whether it is even a vector design. Practice with typing text first and learn your cutter. This is the correct way to set your blade depth, which must be correct, before you set your other settings. Every cutter has to be fine tuned to cut correctly. This is correct way to set your blade depth. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should just barely see and feel your blade tip out of the blade holder.