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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/15/2021 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Greatly depends on what/where it's being installed. There's no generic answer. In some cases having a border or some sort of straight edge is very handy, others it draws attention if not lined up perfectly.
  2. 4 points
    I cleaned up some old Koh-I-Noor Rapidographs, and these are by far the best results I've gotten so far. They're made for technical drawing, so that makes sense I placed them so the bottom of the colored rings of the handle were lined up with the top of the tool holder. All the Rapidograph tests were done at 10mm/s & 10g, using Yasutomo Sumi Ink. Here's the first 0.5mm tests I did: As a comparison, here's a test of the same file I did with the ultra-fine point Sharpie, after abusing it during lots of tests, and letting it dry out once (oops) - this may have been at a faster speed, though: Just to be fair, here's the same test with a new Sharpie, at 10mm/s & 10g - lots of bleeding compared to the Rapidograph: And finally, here's the 0.3mm tip with a 0.6mm hatching, which is super clean - this was the first test I used it on, so the beginning of the B was a little dry still: And thanks for all the advice regarding cutting! I'm going to try to mess around with cutting this paper using the carrier sheet this weekend.
  3. 4 points
    My Graphtec dropped data at 16 ft. I had to go back to 12ft. Not sure how a powered hub would work. 12 ft works great for me. Also I would want to be close to my cutter, when you hit send. Big jam ups could ruin your cutter.
  4. 3 points
    I have been using Main paper tape for years. Perfectear. I started with R-tape, I got a roll of Main and never looked back. I just like the way feels and rolls out out better. I get mine from a dealer in Michigan. But UScutter sells it also. Company called Nekoosa owns it now. https://uscutter.com/shop/?search_query=perfectear
  5. 3 points
    Hi thanks I tried that, just by doing the outline but it just looks inflated and the original letter stays the same size which is not 1/2 inch. Found another way by making 1/2inch rectangle shapes and stretching the length and angle to fit into each letter. Which is good in one way as it tells you the length of each one and the Led neon can only be cut at 1 inch spacing. For any of the curved sections it was a case of using the elliptical tool to make a shape which fitted perfect and then making a duplicate and then grabbing the corners to make a smaller version. Then a bit of node editing and weld them together. All a bit long winded
  6. 3 points
    Subscription vs buying comes down to how often is the software updated, and how often do you buy the update. Me personally, I prefer buying. If I get software that does what I need and works, I see no point in upgrading and introducing a new world of things to learn and/or not work. I still use a program from the late 90s simply because it works and newer version have gotten way more complicated than what I need. However, if you're one of those that has to have the latest and greatest a subscription can work out to be cheaper in the long run and you'll be sure to always have the newest version as well as the tech support that comes along with it.
  7. 3 points
    Die cutting is not done with a blade, it is done with a die and a press. Blade life will be shortened when cutting harder material. 60 degree blade is recommended for thicker material and several on here use them for everything.
  8. 3 points
    BigLodgeTypeFree (Regular) is what you seek. mark-s
  9. 3 points
    Judging from that photo I would disagree. If the blade is set correctly it is impossible to cut into the backing paper as seen in your photo.
  10. 3 points
    I run both my LaserPoint and Graphtec from an (old) MacPro (intel), MacBook Pro (intel), and Mac Mini (M1). All through Parallels. The Intel-based machines are running Win7, because that's my preference, the M1 runs Win10. The only issue that I've run into, is the LaserPoint on the new M1 machine, but it runs the Graphtec CE6000-60 Plus just fine. I can run the Graphtec Studio natively in Mac OS, and can run Graphtec Pro Studio and SignBlazer in Win7&10.
  11. 3 points
    I figured out the issue. When in doubt reinstall VM, and install your new cutter upon it asking you when going over adding your cutter.
  12. 3 points
    My two concern with not taping is scratching it during install and flimsiness of untaped vinyl. If you have a good felt squeegee though the risk of scratching should be minimal. And If the design isn't too big working directly with vinyl shouldn't be too big a deal. Give it a try. Worst that can happen is you mess up the vinyl and you have to do it again.
  13. 3 points
    Suptac is calendared vinyl, according to what I looked up online. Using App-tape is the rule, of course, but if he's careful he can peel this thing directly from the backing and drop it. Hey, dakota, with inflation running so high these days, you should up that to a nickle.
  14. 3 points
    Personally I would tape it to make sure there is no stretching and protect it when applied. A 7 year cast is pretty thin and easily stretched . Just my 2 cents
  15. 3 points
    My name is Bridget and my handle is MacGrafix. I was a forum member from years ago. Life got the best of me and I had to duck out for a while. I ended up moving from big city life to small town life. I used to be very active here, so I am hoping that one or two remember me. Anyways, I am glad to be back and hope to learn more from the people who are still in the game. I dusted the old cutter off and away we go.
  16. 3 points
    The mat is only needed if your cutter needs it or if the vinyl being cut is too small. Just load the vinyl in your SC, shinny side down, mirror the cut and you're good to go.
  17. 2 points
    I no longer have a business but have a sweet fc9000 - no problems at all with it
  18. 2 points
    So sad that the last one is true. ha. First time I drove a stick I just jumped in and took off, no instructions of any kind. Only stick experience was video games. I just don't get how people don't know how to drive a manual. I can understand not being good at it right away, but anyone should be able to get one moving.
  19. 2 points
    This is what I do. I like a diamond or a triangle shape. I place them where I want them and then group and copy paste them on top of one another in each color layer so they are all on the same spot on the design.
  20. 2 points
    Thanks everyone for the inputs. I decided to give the tape a go, with the same doubt in mind that it may scratch or may start to come off with the movement of the edges of the squeegee. I used the wet application method but was able to peel the tape off while the vinyl was still wet. It did lift up but I managed to squeegee it down. Here is the end result. Many thanks for the inputs
  21. 2 points
    If you have a Prismcut, use the "pause" button instead of the "stop" button.
  22. 2 points
    So your video only shows us that the vinyl is fed slightly askew. The cutter will not know whether the vinyl is askew or not, the concern is when it cuts, how much drift occurring during the cut. The SC is considered a budget cutter, so there might be some drift that occurs when the vinyl jogs back and forth. I've done 6-foot run on my LaserPoint, and even with the correct blade depth, a good speed, and plenty of slack, I was anticipating some drift to occur.
  23. 2 points
    I can't argue - I might have tried to argue before I actually owned the fc but you are 100 percent correct
  24. 2 points
    Try the serial port on the cutter. The USB port on the MHs are just trouble.
  25. 2 points
    Thank you, In this video I'm making decals for this minibike that I have sold to Norway. It was a Herbie themed minibike, but I have converted it into a Norway themed minibike. The video should start at the part, where I'm making decals. This was when I still had the Roland CX-24 cutter and the laptop with Windows XP and Flexisign.