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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/04/2019 in Posts

  1. 5 points
  2. 3 points
    That is way incorrect, and about 10 times too much blade exposed. This is posted on the forum to help. Guess you didn't read it.
  3. 2 points
    I switched my dedicated computer a while back to a HP Elite 8300 USFF and 8200 USFF (one is my shipping computer and backup to the cutting computer) ultra small form factor computer and put a solid state drive in it - very very low power usage, cost effective solution as mine is left on about 9 months out of the year. like a laptop in power usage but has more airflow and is silent. cutting computer is never online and no anti virus needed so it is faster and not likely to get corrupted from a download
  4. 2 points
    Should be able to just make a tall skinny rectangle and subtract it from the letters. Or whatever it is called in your software. In studio pro (flexi) it is cutout. In corel draw it is shaping-front minus back. VM? not a clue, never used it.
  5. 2 points
    You state your new to the business, Did you know that designs can be broken down and cut, even on a 24"? You don't state what sizes of cutters that you have. I have a 30" Graphtec and I would never want a larger size than 30" Too hard to mask, and requires a wider table to work on. I just use a 30" w x 8 ft long table and it works fine for all of my needs.
  6. 2 points
    Using a Clean Cut blade, or a new blade couldn't hurt either. I would also encourage you to check for any debris in the blade holder, and check the condition of the cutting strip. The cutting strip should be fairly self-healing, but if you cut into it, honestly, it's never the same. When I start to get a perforated effect on my cuts, I know it's time to look at the blade, blade holder, and cutting strip. Good luck, and please keep us updated.
  7. 2 points
    That trimmer looks pretty good. Thank you, @Dakotagrafx
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    In Signblazer it would be, arrange-weld-punch through. Just make sure you use two colors.
  10. 1 point
    Most people cutting as a business use a dedicated computer for their business, Cut and design only on the computer. I have XP backup computers. You can still pickup XP computers online. Or even Windows 7. Just saying you don't need a new fancy computer to run a vinyl cutter.
  11. 1 point
    My cutter is a 2008 model. I have never updated the firmware. It works great as it is. No reason to even update your cutter. You can get many great years out of it. Just get an updated software. I still run my cutter on XP. Most stable Windows there is. You don't need a fancy computer with higher Windows. A lot of us stay back on Windows XP. Can pick up cheap.
  12. 1 point
    if the oldest you can download is 3.9 and you're running 1.3, your firmware\hardware maybe too old to go straight to 3.9. Is there a revision history for the update that tells you what new abilities the firmware offers? Firmware won't have any effect on the software's ability to run on your PC.
  13. 1 point
    The web site has win10 listed as supported for CM2
  14. 1 point
    Heat transfer will trick you too. It's carrier is really tough and hardly ever possible to cut through so you get all set or so you think then switch over to adhesive vinyl and wham. Start on adhesive vinyl, follow the instructions on the blade depth, it makes so much difference yet no one believes it for some reason. Once you get set for adhesive the heat transfer is basically the same I rarely need to adjust if cutting Siser. Some other brands are thicker and require more blade and a touch more down force but not much. A good quality blade like the Clean Cut blades are very helpful. They are much harder steel and are able to be sharpened well beyond the cheap ones and if you don't abuse them by cutting though the backing they will last 6 months or a year. I usually change them out after about 6-8 months and save the old ones for things I know will be hard on blades like glitter HTV.
  15. 1 point
    lol - great minds think alike on using a refine after having a graphtec that would be about as much fun as putting your hand on a vice and whacking your hand with a hammer :/
  16. 1 point
    if it ain't broke, don't fix it. i kind of use that as loose mantra when it comes to tech.
  17. 1 point
    You could also try a 60 degree blade for fine detail but follow Skeeter's directions for setting the blade
  18. 1 point
    Tried to update my ce5000 once, it failed and I decided if it is working fine, don't mess with it. Works perfect just the way it is. Just like Skeeter said.
  19. 1 point
    Best not to update the firmware. Updating is causing many problems. Cutter will not even work after the update. I bought my cutter in 2008, I have never updated it. Why screw up a machine that is working fine?
  20. 1 point
    If it cuts regular fine, then it would not be the board. Are you following the calibration and instructions for contour cutting with Vinyl Master from the support page? Also the value cutters are best on a serial cable or a Tripp-Lite Keyspan Adapter with null modem cable for better connections. https://support.uscutter.com/support/solutions/articles/14000049746-contour-cutting-with-the-laserpoint-ii-and-sc-cutters-vinylmaster-sure-cuts-a-lot-3-pro-flexisign
  21. 1 point
    I found one of the neolt trimmers like a shop I worked in had - on ebay for $200 shipped - pretty sure they paid close to that in shipping alone but it has been one of the most used pieces of equipment over the past 10 years. even after selling the solvent printers this trimmer will stay with us for a long time as it is too handy. link below for one similar to mine. the Neolt are built in italy and very clean accurate cuts https://www.ebay.com/itm/Neolt-Trim-150-Paper-Trimmer-Cutter-W-Stand-Catcher-Local-Pick-up-Only/264501715838?hash=item3d9587e37e:g:-SAAAOSwgGJdqF-z
  22. 1 point
    it's like sticking an ice pick thru a material and trying to slide it . .. .
  23. 1 point
    Also make sure you are not in wire frame mode.
  24. 1 point
    Def Leppard 1987 Hysteria Album.
  25. 0 points
    Only cuts rough on tiny objects. I used the credit card suggestion. Where you set the depth of the blade to about half the thickness of the credit card. Worked fine so far, but some 2ft wide with fantastic results. Bunch of 12" wide heat transfer sheets. But a buddy wants to run some 2"x2" logos and I know darn well its hit or miss for me. Best test file: trying to cut a troll face in a 2" x 2" area