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  1. 3 points
    Yes found problem after decicded to change the head was encoder gave it a good clean all back and running again
  2. 2 points
    The other option would be to analyze the design and figure out a way to break it into smaller pieces. Add in some registration marks to get it all lined back up and you're good to go.
  3. 2 points
    Jimbo, you got a solution that was offered 15 years ago, which is a fine testament to the effectiveness of these Forums and its Search functionality. By the way, 'mobby' was one of the most-well-versed people regarding SignBlazer, as he was personally familiar with the developer (Jerry Bonham). All of that is water under the bridge, of course, but it's great to see people are still able to obtain "Help" on a program that's long since been abandoned in the marketplace.
  4. 2 points
    DXF files are not really cutter friendly. They look like a constant line, but they are actually several line segments and are typically not joined. VM can't do a contour, because it doesn't see a shape to contour cut around. You will need to join all the segments in order to create a shape. I might be as simple as joining the 3 areas circled below or you might need to join every single little line segment. Some software has the ability to automatically join line segments that are close enough, although this can give some funky results some times. I believe Inkscape has this ability. If you can get the file as an eps, ai, or svg rather than a dxf that would be the easiest way to go.
  5. 2 points
    Update! Since we're in Hawai'i, Graphtec recommended that we check with a local authorized repair shop rather than send the whole thing to continental US. We called up the recommended shop and after hearing of our issue asked, "when did you last replace the plunger?" They noted that those can stop working, preventing the blade from spinning/rotating. We ordered a new plunger from them and we're back in business! We finished out the 15mil synthetic job and are getting through the 10mil job as I write this. The old plunger has been marked and is still good enough for most of our paper jobs. I did let the boss know about the other blades you folks recommended. Thank you
  6. 2 points
    . Has this cutter ever cut correctly? Is it new or used? Your cutter is a value cutter with a cheap Chinese chipset on it,, will take a bit of fine tuning to cut correctly. Best to use with a Tripplite Keyspan Adapter and your null modem cable. Setting your blade depth correctly is the first thing you have to get correct, You do not use the depth of a credit card or post it notes. That is way too much blade exposed out of the blade holder. You set the blade depth to the vinyl you will be cutting.( Instructions below). For blade offset, start at 0.25mm and adjust at 0.05 to be correct. Show your test cuts from the TEST cut feature on the machine. That has to be correct first, before you cut anything. Square should be square. You could also ad a little overcut in your cutting software, but that is not going to fix what you have going on. You have to start with the correct blade depth first. this info has been posted on here hundreds and hundreds of times, it applies to any brand of vinyl cutter, except a Graphtec has a ZERO blade offset. Something that you will have to do if you haven't, if that cutter is on a stand, it needs grounded to the stand, or static from the vinyl, will stop the cutter. The tracking is not good on those cutters for larger designs. The memory is also not good for larger designs. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade tip out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade. When you think the blade is so far in the blade holder, that you think it would not even cut, that is probably correct.
  7. 2 points
    I'm assuming poll size tells the machine to measure the paper? You still have to remember there is going to be unusable space at the end of the paper that the rollers hold onto and the machine is not going to account for this because in the vinyl world you don't worry about how much vinyl is at the end, you are just going to cut it off and continue to use the roll. You are trying to use the machine as a plotter, which is not what it was designed for and thereby missing some of the abilities a true plotter would have. You seem to be getting pretty close to your goal, but as you've discovered it's just going to be a matter of trial and error to find the settings and conditions that work for you.
  8. 2 points
    I have never tried to draw on sheets or ever use sheets with my Graphtec. But have you calibrated the cutter to the cutting software? As in cut/draw a 3" x 3" square and make sure that it measures exactly at 3" x 3"? That adjustment is in Resolution. Mine is set at 1016 in/steps. I have a FC7000 and FC8000. but the same adjustment is made in Resolution in my cutting software.. I use Flexi software. And Graphtec Pro Studio, which is also Flexi software. So you are putting your cutter head exactly where you want it and you are pushing the ORIGIN button on the cutter? You must push the Origin button before sending a job. That Origin point is the measuring point for your design. Most people here are cutting vinyl on 15"-30" wide vinyl rolls. Only a couple hand fulls answer questions. Your cutter will not cut past the pinch rollers unless, you use expand or turn off the pinch roller sensor. I don't know of anyone on here, doing what you are trying to do.
  9. 1 point
    So, what kind of stories do you have out there of your first vehicle wrap experience. I'll go first. I did the quarter and a door on my truck today, and lets put it this way, if we count how many wrinkles are there you have Barbara Walters! Ok, all bad jokes aside, jeez I thought this was going to be a little easier. Probably doesnt help that I have to cut 60" vinyl on the ground, and the wind would not cooperate by stopping! Wrinkles, blems, and cuts oh my! The real question is should I press on and potentially waste the rest of the $250 spent for the Hexis, or should I cut my losses now?! Hmmmm....
  10. 1 point
    Thanks for posting your update.
  11. 1 point
    Again, have you checked what COM Port your Windows machine has assigned to the cutter? Yes, VinylMaster does work with Windows 7. Sign Blazer (SBE) - I would recommend that you absolutely find out with COM Port, and manually designated it in SBE, because auto detect doesn't always work properly. I don't have an LP II, but I do have an original LP, and the machine that I needed to select from the list was the Creation PCUT 735.
  12. 1 point
    Everyone calls it the Z-Chip because it controls the Z-axis movement (the up/down of the cutting blade). Here's a video that explains the replacement process on the earlier models. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=68rrkF6gFTE 1:25-1:55
  13. 1 point
    The Z-chip as everyone calls it, is nothing more than a simple LM741 Op-Amp. Should be able to pick one up for about a $1.
  14. 1 point
    Every once in a while, I come through with the goods! I probably would just throw the image into GIMP (free raster editor) and crop it there, and then import the final result to whatever level of VM I've got. Yeah, it's an extra step for a workaround, but it'll suffice, unless a higher level of VM is financially viable for that added functionality.
  15. 1 point
    Just wanted to say HI and let all my friends on the forum that I am still around. I spent the past few years taking care of my wife so I had to put all my work on the back burner. I'm doing very little work, mainly for friends at the moment. I'm still in the process of getting all the paperwork done. Once again, Hello everyone.
  16. 1 point
    I would replace them anything less than a 1/4. Try again. mark-s
  17. 1 point
    Will do. Many thanks!
  18. 1 point
    Y-W Let us know how it turns out for you. We love to see follow-ups with success stories here!
  19. 1 point
    Once leveled and taped at the top to hold it in place using blue painters tape. You can place a long piece of painters tape across the top to form a hinge, then cut up between the letters to apply them individually. Or if you have a graphic like in example #2 use a vertical hinge, peel the backing back to the blue tape and cut it off, then apply that half of the decal. remove the blue tape hinge peel the backing off of the second half and apply the other half of the decal.
  20. 1 point
    Believe you'rere right, Mike.... seems the 'LTR' Version of VinylMaster does not include the Tile Bleed (Overlap) Tools.
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    Not sure how you sized the logos. But when I do race cars or any vehicle, I usually take a picture of it with a piece of 8.5x11 piece of paper taped to it. Then I do my design work. The when the design is ready for print or cut. I make an 8.5 inch line. Then I size the picture with the design to match the line using the piece of paper. Car looks good.
  23. 1 point
    Ya, Youtube and I need to get a room.. lmao I guess frustration means im on the right learning curve path.. lol
  24. 1 point
    Sa, you are correct in the HExis being cast. Here is a link to what I bought - http://www.ebay.com/itm/110836734567?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 . This is my 1st time ever doing something to this extreme. I am frustrated to say the least. I suppose I might be exaggerating the wrinkles a little bit, but there are a few that are definitely noticeable at 5'. At 10'+ the vinyl looks great (i think?!)! I'll put a few pics up tomorrow. I am also having sticking issues from going down, peeling up, down, up, etc.. I know that I just need to go slow and lay it down easy. My door I did, was going great, until I got the main part below the window.. then it went to hell.. lol
  25. 1 point
    First time wrap should always be done WET WET WET WET.... vehicle and material...... (Assuming you aren't cutting and just wrapping with Carbon or something.....)