Leaderboard

Yes found problem after decicded to change the head was encoder gave it a good clean all back and running again

You would be amazed at how many businesses that I interact with, who do not have their own artwork for one reason or another. I often dread having to recreate someone else's logo because it seems like reinventing the wheel, but it's the same wheel without any improvements

The other option would be to analyze the design and figure out a way to break it into smaller pieces. Add in some registration marks to get it all lined back up and you're good to go.

Jimbo, you got a solution that was offered 15 years ago, which is a fine testament to the effectiveness of these Forums and its Search functionality. By the way, 'mobby' was one of the most-well-versed people regarding SignBlazer, as he was personally familiar with the developer (Jerry Bonham). All of that is water under the bridge, of course, but it's great to see people are still able to obtain "Help" on a program that's long since been abandoned in the marketplace.

DXF files are not really cutter friendly. They look like a constant line, but they are actually several line segments and are typically not joined. VM can't do a contour, because it doesn't see a shape to contour cut around. You will need to join all the segments in order to create a shape. I might be as simple as joining the 3 areas circled below or you might need to join every single little line segment. Some software has the ability to automatically join line segments that are close enough, although this can give some funky results some times. I believe Inkscape has this ability. If you can get the file as an eps, ai, or svg rather than a dxf that would be the easiest way to go.

Update! Since we're in Hawai'i, Graphtec recommended that we check with a local authorized repair shop rather than send the whole thing to continental US. We called up the recommended shop and after hearing of our issue asked, "when did you last replace the plunger?" They noted that those can stop working, preventing the blade from spinning/rotating. We ordered a new plunger from them and we're back in business! We finished out the 15mil synthetic job and are getting through the 10mil job as I write this. The old plunger has been marked and is still good enough for most of our paper jobs. I did let the boss know about the other blades you folks recommended. Thank you

. Has this cutter ever cut correctly? Is it new or used? Your cutter is a value cutter with a cheap Chinese chipset on it,, will take a bit of fine tuning to cut correctly. Best to use with a Tripplite Keyspan Adapter and your null modem cable. Setting your blade depth correctly is the first thing you have to get correct, You do not use the depth of a credit card or post it notes. That is way too much blade exposed out of the blade holder. You set the blade depth to the vinyl you will be cutting.( Instructions below). For blade offset, start at 0.25mm and adjust at 0.05 to be correct. Show your test cuts from the TEST cut feature on the machine. That has to be correct first, before you cut anything. Square should be square. You could also ad a little overcut in your cutting software, but that is not going to fix what you have going on. You have to start with the correct blade depth first. this info has been posted on here hundreds and hundreds of times, it applies to any brand of vinyl cutter, except a Graphtec has a ZERO blade offset. Something that you will have to do if you haven't, if that cutter is on a stand, it needs grounded to the stand, or static from the vinyl, will stop the cutter. The tracking is not good on those cutters for larger designs. The memory is also not good for larger designs. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade tip out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade. When you think the blade is so far in the blade holder, that you think it would not even cut, that is probably correct.

well actually has said the file shows "on downloads" so that raises the question, what does that mean? It's also possible to have multiple "download" locations so the first step is to determine what location the file is actually being downloaded to, and then what location Vinyl Master is looking at. Unfortunately, the way windows works now, and the way everything is going, the casual computer user, has no understanding of folder structures and file locations.

The folks who do Graphic Design for logos aren't signmakers. They have no perspective on what is required to make a sign using cut-vinyl lettering. In their world, everything is Printed (or reproduced on websites) so Raster output is usually fine. The worst are those clients who hand me a business card and say "Make my sign look like this" Uh, no.

Did you see this cutter preform before buying? Ask the previous owner about the error. Not many people here who even own a Roland that answers questions. Probably more help at the Roland Forum . Roland has their own forum.

The Z-chip as everyone calls it, is nothing more than a simple LM741 Op-Amp. Should be able to pick one up for about a $1.

Nice find. I tried looking for something like that but couldn't find it.

Thanks Riel. Due to it being Abandonware, along with the internal 'crack' that was applied (computer security gateway defenders will stop it from installing), it's not the most desirable program for people who are seeking to get into vinyl cutting these days. For the record, the download itself on that 'archive' website is located HERE --> https://archive.org/download/signblazer_setup7/signblazer_setup7.exe Oh, by the way, despite the goofy-looking interface, SignBlazerELEMENTS has a lot of great features, including text ARC; great node editing tools; welding and punch-through; drop-shadows and distortion effects; variety of Arrows; quick Kerning; text slant; easy borders; and much more. You are welcome to start a new topic on "Introductions" and tell us about your Rabbit, and what you produce with it, and any tips and tricks or business practices that can assist this community. You seem to be someone who wants to contribute, and that's always appreciated.

I would replace them anything less than a 1/4. Try again. mark-s

Once leveled and taped at the top to hold it in place using blue painters tape. You can place a long piece of painters tape across the top to form a hinge, then cut up between the letters to apply them individually. Or if you have a graphic like in example #2 use a vertical hinge, peel the backing back to the blue tape and cut it off, then apply that half of the decal. remove the blue tape hinge peel the backing off of the second half and apply the other half of the decal.

blade depth first, because you're getting scratches on the vinyl where there shouldn't be any. if you have dialed in the right blade depth, then make sure you vinyl isn't tenting, or if you have a 3rd pinch roller, use it. off set, to try and tighten up the corners.

Hi Guys, I got a very cheap (and ancient) Roland ColorCAMM PC-60. I know that driver support and software is a problem. But I am fine using it through a Windows XP VM if required. I am actually more of a Mac user and the single Software that I found that listed the scanner in its compatible devices was SignCut Pro 2. Cutting vinyl works with it, but it doesn't have any design functions and I consider it rather expensive to just "drive a cutter". Right now I am not even looking intro printing with it but even options to get it to cut are limited. I have read that people "just use the software from the Roland website" to work with it. But I couldn't find anything besides firmware and drivers. The XP driver is probably the only useful thing from their website. Q1: Can you point me to that particular software or any other (old) software that I can use? The cutter understands two protocols: CAMM-GLIII and RD-RTL. I would assume that even if this particular cutter isn't listed, it would be to some extend compatible to other or even different manufacturer models. Q2: To what cutters would the PC-60 be considered compatible? I have tried e.g. EasyCut Pro and picked PNC. But that doesnt do anything... Also InkCut as a free alternative and picking PNC-900 doesn't do anything. Any help would be appreciated. I am new to the world of vinyl cutting :-)

Sign Blazer Elements - totally free, and probably just as ancient, if not more so, than your Roland. It has design and cut abilities.

Believe you'rere right, Mike.... seems the 'LTR' Version of VinylMaster does not include the Tile Bleed (Overlap) Tools.

Where

Just Blatant Advertising....................

All the wraps I have ever seen they only did seams at smart locations like where the side panels meet the roof etc... Never seen them have an overlap on door panels. Maybe he has an undersized printer? For what those costs I think I'd make sure it made me happy. Tell him that if he wants to leave it the way it is he needs to add some more vinyl that says "This crappy wrap job was done by....:" so he can get proper advertising for his efforts. Ha ha!

Ya, Youtube and I need to get a room.. lmao I guess frustration means im on the right learning curve path.. lol

Sa, you are correct in the HExis being cast. Here is a link to what I bought - http://www.ebay.com/itm/110836734567?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 . This is my 1st time ever doing something to this extreme. I am frustrated to say the least. I suppose I might be exaggerating the wrinkles a little bit, but there are a few that are definitely noticeable at 5'. At 10'+ the vinyl looks great (i think?!)! I'll put a few pics up tomorrow. I am also having sticking issues from going down, peeling up, down, up, etc.. I know that I just need to go slow and lay it down easy. My door I did, was going great, until I got the main part below the window.. then it went to hell.. lol

I would assume he is using a wrapping cast, 60" hexis