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Yes found problem after decicded to change the head was encoder gave it a good clean all back and running again

You would be amazed at how many businesses that I interact with, who do not have their own artwork for one reason or another. I often dread having to recreate someone else's logo because it seems like reinventing the wheel, but it's the same wheel without any improvements

The other option would be to analyze the design and figure out a way to break it into smaller pieces. Add in some registration marks to get it all lined back up and you're good to go.

Jimbo, you got a solution that was offered 15 years ago, which is a fine testament to the effectiveness of these Forums and its Search functionality. By the way, 'mobby' was one of the most-well-versed people regarding SignBlazer, as he was personally familiar with the developer (Jerry Bonham). All of that is water under the bridge, of course, but it's great to see people are still able to obtain "Help" on a program that's long since been abandoned in the marketplace.

DXF files are not really cutter friendly. They look like a constant line, but they are actually several line segments and are typically not joined. VM can't do a contour, because it doesn't see a shape to contour cut around. You will need to join all the segments in order to create a shape. I might be as simple as joining the 3 areas circled below or you might need to join every single little line segment. Some software has the ability to automatically join line segments that are close enough, although this can give some funky results some times. I believe Inkscape has this ability. If you can get the file as an eps, ai, or svg rather than a dxf that would be the easiest way to go.

Update! Since we're in Hawai'i, Graphtec recommended that we check with a local authorized repair shop rather than send the whole thing to continental US. We called up the recommended shop and after hearing of our issue asked, "when did you last replace the plunger?" They noted that those can stop working, preventing the blade from spinning/rotating. We ordered a new plunger from them and we're back in business! We finished out the 15mil synthetic job and are getting through the 10mil job as I write this. The old plunger has been marked and is still good enough for most of our paper jobs. I did let the boss know about the other blades you folks recommended. Thank you

. Has this cutter ever cut correctly? Is it new or used? Your cutter is a value cutter with a cheap Chinese chipset on it,, will take a bit of fine tuning to cut correctly. Best to use with a Tripplite Keyspan Adapter and your null modem cable. Setting your blade depth correctly is the first thing you have to get correct, You do not use the depth of a credit card or post it notes. That is way too much blade exposed out of the blade holder. You set the blade depth to the vinyl you will be cutting.( Instructions below). For blade offset, start at 0.25mm and adjust at 0.05 to be correct. Show your test cuts from the TEST cut feature on the machine. That has to be correct first, before you cut anything. Square should be square. You could also ad a little overcut in your cutting software, but that is not going to fix what you have going on. You have to start with the correct blade depth first. this info has been posted on here hundreds and hundreds of times, it applies to any brand of vinyl cutter, except a Graphtec has a ZERO blade offset. Something that you will have to do if you haven't, if that cutter is on a stand, it needs grounded to the stand, or static from the vinyl, will stop the cutter. The tracking is not good on those cutters for larger designs. The memory is also not good for larger designs. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade tip out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade. When you think the blade is so far in the blade holder, that you think it would not even cut, that is probably correct.

So, what kind of stories do you have out there of your first vehicle wrap experience. I'll go first. I did the quarter and a door on my truck today, and lets put it this way, if we count how many wrinkles are there you have Barbara Walters! Ok, all bad jokes aside, jeez I thought this was going to be a little easier. Probably doesnt help that I have to cut 60" vinyl on the ground, and the wind would not cooperate by stopping! Wrinkles, blems, and cuts oh my! The real question is should I press on and potentially waste the rest of the $250 spent for the Hexis, or should I cut my losses now?! Hmmmm....

agreed. you probably need to browse to where you actually put the downloaded file at.

Glad I was able to assist. That's what we're all here for

Just about everyday with me, drives me nuts...

I tweaked it to try and see if it would help. Still didn't get there in FMF but Agency FB Bold is close and with some work could be made to work. If you figure it out to be an actual font post the name cause it's a cool look.

Again, have you checked what COM Port your Windows machine has assigned to the cutter? Yes, VinylMaster does work with Windows 7. Sign Blazer (SBE) - I would recommend that you absolutely find out with COM Port, and manually designated it in SBE, because auto detect doesn't always work properly. I don't have an LP II, but I do have an original LP, and the machine that I needed to select from the list was the Creation PCUT 735.

Just wanted to say HI and let all my friends on the forum that I am still around. I spent the past few years taking care of my wife so I had to put all my work on the back burner. I'm doing very little work, mainly for friends at the moment. I'm still in the process of getting all the paperwork done. Once again, Hello everyone.

Hate to say this, Kainth, but what you did there is not very useful, at all, from the standpoint of providing what was requested. .pdf? How is that even cuttable? He wants an SBD file, which I could make in two minutes, but I won't. In fact, I think this poster is just messing around with us, he was here with the exact same 'threepers' militia logo in 2020. For the record, Three Percenters have a track record of criminal activity ranging from weapons violations to terrorist plots and attacks. (according to the ADL, the Jewish Anti-Defamation League). He was given the exact information he needs to do his own cutting file. If he can't manage it, that's his problem, not ours.

Y-W Let us know how it turns out for you. We love to see follow-ups with success stories here!

No discrepancy. The $982 is for CUT V1-V4, to XPT. V5. Choose XPT V1-V4 to XPT 5. (far right). You are paying for almost all of XPT 5, upgrading from bare bones CUT for $982. Each version has a different price for upgrade. Click on the versions, they are each different. Page default is on CUT.

Biggest problems Newbies encounter is setting the blade depth correctly. Too many wrong instructions out there. Don't use instructions that have to do with a credit card thickness or post it notes. They are wrong. Vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick, so you only cut with the very tip of the blade. Blade depth has to be set correctly before any other settings. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade out of the blade holder Make sure the carriage head wheels are firmly in the track. Never be pulling vinyl from the roll, always enough slack to do the order. Make sure blade holder is firmly down in the carriage arm. If you had the blade too far out, make sure you haven't broken the tip off.

Well...the forum sheriffs have removed the bandit text & link! Thanks! Sue2

Not sure how you sized the logos. But when I do race cars or any vehicle, I usually take a picture of it with a piece of 8.5x11 piece of paper taped to it. Then I do my design work. The when the design is ready for print or cut. I make an 8.5 inch line. Then I size the picture with the design to match the line using the piece of paper. Car looks good.

I found this used cutter for sell. I see its a cutter and printer. did a lil online research, saw most complaint was for the cost of using it for printing and heads going bad. can anyone school me on this machine? ins and outs and what would be a decent price if its a decent cond and working machine. owner told me he never used the printing feature

As long as your clean the heads after every print it`s all good. Still running one that i`ve had for 8 years. mark-s

I've just had my first ever (spam link removed) returned and I'm very unimpressed with the job. The wrapping guy is pressurising me to sign it off so that he can get paid but I feel really reluctant to do so. He tells me that my expectations are too high but I find the finishes around certain areas unacceptable. It's been vinyled in two horizontal sheets with about an inch overlap, made to look even worse as the pattern doesn't line up. In addition to these finishes, the logo and contact details are vinyl cut and placed onto the wrap and so have lost the effects that I placed on them and he has lost some clipping paths on an image that I used on the rear, so the background colour doesn't come through. Are my expectations really too high?

I agree with SA 1000%. Never apply any wrap material wet. It will in time disolve the adhesive and fall badly. Get in doors out of the wind, wrap material is way easier to apply at a steady temp.. You will learn a feel for it. Stroke from the middle to the outside of your panels. When you get wrinkles pull it off and apply just enough heat to form it back, then reapply. Never tent or stretch it over a concaved area. Push the vinyl in. Try to not stretch the vinyl, only apply heat until it looks like glass then squeegee. If you have had to stretch any area make sure you post heat so the vinyl will lose memory. Justine Pate has great videos, or take one of the mmm courses. Good Luck, you will get there!

First time wrap should always be done WET WET WET WET.... vehicle and material...... (Assuming you aren't cutting and just wrapping with Carbon or something.....)