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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/28/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Thanks everyone! After ordering the correct cable it worked perfectly. I got this out a gross garage so now I get to clean it up, order some blades and get to work designing! You guys were a huge help. Thanks again.
  2. 3 points
    I have been cutting for years. I know the different vinyls. I use matte also. And I have to change the force for it. And I run a Graphtec. Some people have problems with different gloss colors also. I have never used Matte white. No one has ever asked for it. It may sit around longer than other colors. I do use alot of Matte Black.
  3. 3 points
    Yes, that's how you do it.
  4. 3 points
    They may be buying from a third party vendor who actually IS licensed and just retailing the product which I THINK is legal or could be arranged possibly with some small discount from the vendor to allow a modest profit. I tried to see what it would take to get licensed with a local university (that my kid was attending at the time) and the department that handles that stuff basically lined out the specifics that are major quotas and some sort of accounting/inventory program that tracked everything that had to be running so there were no "lost or missing" items etc... It was in the tune of tens of thousands of dollars up front. I just wanted to make a hoodie for my kid rather than fork over their exorbitant price. The cool part was that they told me that if it was for my own use (ie. my family) that I was not breaking any copyright or trademark law. They went as far as to "ask" that I refrain from making something that did not properly express their Brand. It was a surprising and enlightening conversation. I followed up with an attorney pal about this and he confirmed that they hold trademark on the brand and obviously the copyright as well but that in the US there are no restrictions on what someone can make for themselves if they have the ability. Cannot sell it or even give it away as that would be diluting their market and a breach of trademark law. That long winded story does little to help you but I feel better.
  5. 3 points
    If you have back lighting on the vinyl and it's not translucent then when the light is on you're only really going to see a black silhouette of your design, the color will be all but lost, depending on the brightness and viewing distance.
  6. 3 points
    You're going to have a good time owning a cutter. Like has been mentioned, once people find out you have a cutter they will flock to you for odds and ends. It takes a little bit of practice to learn a few of the basic tools of the trade but once you get the hang of it the rest comes with time and experience. Vinyl is relatively cheap and if you mess something up you just cut another one and try again. I spent about 6 months doing friends and families stuff for free just for practice and they told other people and soon I had more than I could keep up with.
  7. 2 points
    Maybe something here? Or contact them. https://vinylcutterparts.com/
  8. 2 points
    It's a Copam. UScutter used to sell them. It seemed to do very well, as a stepper cutter. Did you download the FTDI driver for your Windows version and install it? https://support.uscutter.com/hc/en-us/sections/360007369351-Copam-Vinyl-Cutter-Series
  9. 2 points
    Same here .... predominantly use 651, so the only thing I really need to adjust is force. Each of my colors have their own characteristics - the older the vinyl, the crunchier it is for me. I know that vinyl has a self life, but I'm too cheap to keep on replacing some of the colors if it's only a small run and it won't cover the cost of the vinyl and time and effort. The older my vinyl, the greater the force. The more intricate design, or tiny detail, the slower the blade. I rarely need to adjust the blade depth.
  10. 2 points
    Biggest problems Newbies encounter is setting the blade depth correctly. Too many wrong instructions out there. Don't use instructions that have to do with a credit card thickness or post it notes. They are wrong. Vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick, so you only cut with the very tip of the blade. Blade depth has to be set correctly before any other settings. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade out of the blade holder Make sure the carriage head wheels are firmly in the track. Never be pulling vinyl from the roll, always enough slack to do the order. Make sure blade holder is firmly down in the carriage arm. If you had the blade too far out, make sure you haven't broken the tip off.
  11. 2 points
    From problem description that would be my guess. If you double click on the text you will get a text editing cursor if it's text, if you get the node editing view then you don't have text, you have curves that look like text.
  12. 2 points
    is your vinylmaster activated? did you create that text within vinylmaster - if not the text could be converted to outlines.
  13. 2 points
    You should hire a lawyer.
  14. 2 points
    Just FYI regular vinyl will not necessarily allow light to pass through very well in most cases. They make translucent vinyl that is specifically for back-light applications. Also be aware that layering translucent can have some interesting outcomes also. (think primary colors and how they blend)
  15. 2 points
    Sure Cuts A lot has a free trial. Try it. Never heard of anyone using Affinity Suite. First time I have heard the name. I have been on here for many years.
  16. 2 points
    Also, you want to layer from the top layer down. Figure out which layer will be on top, cut transfer tape big enough to cover the entire design, put it on the top layer, peal off the backing paper then put the app tape and vinyl down on the next layer and repeat.
  17. 2 points
    you can't layer with clear tape wet - paper only with layering wet and it has to be layered on the final surface otherwise the application fluid will wet the backing paper on the vinyl. with registration marks should be no reason to layer wet - 4 layer will be more of a challenge unless applying on the final surface no matter what you do.
  18. 2 points
    you won't be sorry you went with the sc2 over the mh -
  19. 2 points
    Looks like they are sold out of the 28on eBay, but they do have the 34, which I have decided to purchase, just need to wait until payday to order it!
  20. 2 points
    The part looks simple enough, if you could get measurements I could probably make a 3D model and try printing you something. PETG material is pretty strong and I think this part would hold up well. I'd be happy to give it a try. Once it prints if I think it'll work for you I'll send it, just cover shipping.
  21. 2 points
    I believe that getting a local 3D maker to scan and print this would probably cost more than the $35 for the entire assembly from Amazon as Skeetz linked above. I never understood the attraction of 3D printing as a hobby. Honestly, how many little plastic useless doo-dads do you need?
  22. 2 points
    sales staff don't normally last long enough to know about the older plotters even 2-3 years ago - but that is why we all stay on here and appreciate skeeters search skills! you could try jb weld until the new part comes in but then again you have the graphtec! I've used jb weld for anything from exhaust manifold on a 65 mustang to digital camera battery doors and tabs on plotters that broke off. it is incredibly tough, sandable and drillable
  23. 2 points
    Yes, you have to change the design between the first and second cut. Better yet, use two files. Here's the first file. Let's say the square is the thing you want cut out. You add reg marks with the software so it adds those 4 brackets. My software says the brackets are .5in in size, the lines are .039 thick and they're placed 1 inch from the design. If you printed this in a printer then put it in a plotter, the plotter would look for the reg marks and cut out the design inside them. Since you don't have a printer, you can make those brackets out of vinyl. Save that as file1. Now, design your own reg marks that match the ones the software added and place them where the other reg marks were. Here I've made 4 bracket shapes with the correct dimensions and put them 1 inch from the design. Save it as file2. Send file2 it to the plotter and it will cut out 5 shapes in the vinyl, the square and the 4 bracket shapes, because it doesn't see the brackets as software created reg marks, they're just part of the design. Then you can weed the vinyl, apply it to the magnet and put the magnet back in the plotter. The magnet has the vinyl design and 4 vinyl brackets on it. Open file1 and send it to the plotter and the plotter will look for reg marks and cut out the square. The reg marks are just made out of vinyl instead of being printed.
  24. 2 points
    Register for the forum, then your post will go up immediately. It's free. Are you having problems with Vinyl Master or your machine? The drivers for cutters are extremely simple. Have you tried uninstalling and reinstalling?
  25. 1 point
    blade depth first, because you're getting scratches on the vinyl where there shouldn't be any. if you have dialed in the right blade depth, then make sure you vinyl isn't tenting, or if you have a 3rd pinch roller, use it. off set, to try and tighten up the corners.