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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/21/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Clean Cut blades totally rock! I had them ordered and in hand, so I was ready when the Graphtec finally arrived. I only run CC blades in both my machines now.
  2. 4 points
    The type of blade you're using can have a big affect on not lifting the center out of those letters in the future (I know you eliminated them on this project). A lot of folks on here kept preaching the value of a good quality blade, especially the CleanCut brand. I finally listened and it's made a huge difference in the ability of my LaserPoint II to handle detail. Check out this topic from last spring for info and examples.
  3. 4 points
    Very cool --- but there's one thing that bugs me. See the pawpad on the middle toe. You've got an extra node in there that causes the rounded smooth portion to have a jag on the left side. Yeah, I have OCD that causes me to notice minor stuff like that. I think you can raise the speed back to the max. The LPIII should not choke on it.
  4. 4 points
    blinds all down to keep heat in - so watch dog from security system and don't let him stay out over 5 minutes even though he doesn't want to come in. stay warm and safe- at 22 with humidity it can feel real cold
  5. 4 points
  6. 4 points
    As a MH owner I can attest they are not a very good cutter, however, they can be tweaked to cut pretty decent for a hobbyist. Software will not help with your problem of cutting funny or vinyl slipping. The only way software can help the cutter is if the software has the ability to set blade offset and over cut. Adjusting blade offset will square up the corners and adding a bit of over cut will ensure cuts close completely. I suggest we pick one problem to start with and trouble shoot it, then move on to the next one. Setting blade depth, speed, and pressure will be the first steps to getting the cut right. On mine I have my speed set to 120 and pressure to 70.
  7. 3 points
    Just a reminder to back up those files...
  8. 3 points
    I also advice making a duplicate back-up, because back-up's can fail. or, if you're totally fanatical - Carbonite works too
  9. 3 points
    Fine tuning is just making tiny adjustments plus or minus to see which is cutting the best for your cutter. All cutters are different, even the same model. No videos for that. That is for blade depth, speed, force, blade offset. There are no number settings set in stone for any vinyl cutter.
  10. 3 points
    Yea, I'm the same way, but that's their design. All the shirts that they do with that design have it. Also, I would have rounded all the claws at the bottom like the middle one. I don't know, maybe it was done that way for a reason. Still think it's cool though, definitely tested my rookie status...
  11. 3 points
    I have a 24" cutter, rarely do I even use vinyl at that width. Majority of the stuff I cut come off a 15" 651 roll. For the vinyl I do have that I use that's wider - it's a total pain in the butt to tape up. I have a LaserPoint and have never needed to use the contour cut, like ever. Stay away from the bundled deals if you can - they will lump in stuff that you might never need or want, and it's not always the be quality product. Figure out your budget and buy the best cutter you can get with that. Just don't for get the accoutrements - weeding tool (dental pick, exact-o, sharp tweezer, etc.), application tape (paper is the most versatile), squeegee (they come in different widths and firmness. I personally use a 3" that's firm plastic with a microfiber strip on one side), scissors, application fluid, etc. Oh, and vinyl! yah, let's not forget the vinyl! Welcome to the madness!
  12. 3 points
    Grew up in a small farm town an hour south-west of Chicago and sub-zero temperatures weren't that uncommon. After 30 years living in the South I can't wrap my head around being that cold. It's 22 here right now and I worry about the dog when he goes out to the bathroom. My thoughts are with all of you up north. . . stay safe!
  13. 3 points
    90 miles below you , still -16 temps -45 real feel. Sunday, Monday 50's here, Heat wave.
  14. 3 points
    Contour cutting is typically used with printed decals so unless you're printing and cutting you'll likely never use contour cutting. Between the MH and the SC2, go with the SC2, or if it's in your budget go for the Titan. I have an MH and while it can be made to work ok for a hobbiest, it is a lot of work to get it to cut well and not suited for any sort of business. The one plus side to start with a MH, you will learn all the little things that need to be adjusted and monitored for the perfect cut. Higher end machines just work. Neither of these machines are designed to cut card stock. If that is what you're wanting you should look more at the craft cutters such as the cricut and the cameo. As for size, that just depends on what you plan to do with the cutter. 24" vinyl rolls are pretty common and often time large designs can be broken down so that they can be cut on a 24" roll and then pieced back together. However if you're going to be doing large designs often then it would be faster and easier to cut the full design on a large cutter.
  15. 3 points
  16. 3 points
    I sent the control board up to my brother who owns a computer repair shop. He de-soldered the old button and put a new one on. $10
  17. 3 points
    I agree with the others. The info you found was seriously inaccurate and sad that someone would even waste your time with that list. The Graphtec cutters and the Roland are about the only ones that I would call a commercial grade cutter. The FC being the best on that list and the most expensive. There are a LOT of other options out there as well. I started out with a Creation P-Cut (no longer offered at US Cutter) I think it was similar to what the new SC2 is putting out. In fact the SC2 may be better than what I had. I ended up getting busy and so I upgraded to a SummaCut which is priced right in between the CE and FC Graphtecs but the specs are higher than both except for down force of the FC. One train of thought that is NOT WRONG is that learning on a budget cutter will teach you more than starting out on a high end machine. You will be forced to learn the true art of tuning your cutter. As mentioned previously the MH (as bargain barn budget as it may be) is still capable of cutting decent mid sized work in the hands of a trained assassin. If you are going to try to cut really small stuff with text very much below 3/4" or anything very much over 3 ft long or anything that needs multi-layers to be aligned or anything that is going to be multiple copies then it's not going to make you happy. My P-Cut did ok on average stuff but I started needing multiple copies of Heat Transfer Vinyl logo's and it would only do about a dozen before it would overload the memory and wig out and ruin several feet if expensive vinyl or just stop in the middle. I had to "hover" over it every minute it was working so I could stop it if it started going wrong. It was susceptible to static charges and they would also cause it to do something awful. Hobbyist, no problem. Business, not happening. On top of ALL OF THE OTHER THINGS ON YOUR MIND you will need to carefully consider what actual design program you want to build files with. Vinyl Master has seemed to be rock solid and has about all the tools you could want (in the upper levels of the program, not in Cut or even in Letter). I have been trying to learn VM Pro but have not gotten very far yet because my days are so full with a day job and then my cutting work which is a side business. In the end if you really want to be a viable business you will need to become proficient in SOME design graphics program of which there is a list. The more popular ones include Adobe Illustrator (my tool of choice so I listed it first. Extreme on the learning curve I might add). Corel Draw is used by many and said to be easier to grasp for many people. Inkscape is a free option and several here on the forum are handy with it. (I am not) It's a bit clunky IMO but with practice you can do about any basic sign graphic. All three of the aforementioned are strictly design programs that you then need a cutting program to send to your cutter. Vinyl Master Cut that you have will do this just fine. VMCut may be missing some of the nesting and tiling tools for cutter interface. Someone who knows for sure may pitch in and clarify this. The other programs that offer design AND cut in one program include Flexi, (pretty much the boss when it comes to professional sign software and expect to mortgage your house if you were to buy the pro levels) Vinyl Master which you already know a bit about. The Pro level is pretty nice with all the bells and whistles for cutting. The Expert level is even higher but is aimed at print level production work. Then there is Sure Cuts A Lot Pro known as SCALP on the forum. There are several levels of this offering and some have had success with it as a design and cut. I tried a beta version when it first rolled onto the scene and absolutely hated it. If you are actually going to be in business you will be receiving customer files in a myriad of formats. Most I get are un-rendered pictures that I have to re-create. Some come in pdf and have the vector lines within, some in eps or svg vector as well. For an actual business it's a big part of the job and being capable will determine your success, that's why I bring this up. You probably better spend some quiet time deciding how far you plan to go with this. Download Inkscape and work through the tutorials and you'll begin on the path. I design almost exclusively on a mac in Adobe Illustrator and then I cut from a cut only program called SignCut Pro 1. It is both mac and pc compatible and probably would let you cut from your MacBook to your MH although the crappy chipset in the cutter will be an issue for you. There is a special adapter that will supposedly fix you up on that too called a Tripp lite Keyspan adapter (name brand, other brands usually do not work) but you would be stepping off into left field with little tech support if trying to make all that work on the mac. Your windows laptop will work just fine as a cutter controller as will your VM Cut program should you start designing in something else and just using it to run the cutter. Still need to figure out why it's not currently working of course but that sounds like a fine tune/mechanical issue rather than software issue.
  18. 3 points
    You are describing exactly how LYFT and UBER operate --- use your personal car, and basically depreciate it rather quickly towards zero (with all the mileage and maintenance) but those mega-companies provided some money in your pocket each week, so you keep the money and keep driving. Not really enough to cover your true expenses, but hey, who's really keeping track of that? I read one person describe the entire UBER/LYFT thing as a situation whereby drivers are effectively borrowing money against the value of their cars and also subsidizing the ridesharing companies by working for low wages. But, I digress...
  19. 3 points
    I wonder why they even bothered to alter any of the EarthQuest typeface lettering (See the 'R' and "N") -- makes no readily apparent improvement on the original text. And the 2019 is not the same font. But, good detective work, that's for sure!
  20. 2 points
    fireworks=pyrotechnics=explosives=hold my beer and watch this. Ya, I'd buy one.
  21. 2 points
    So I'm guessing you have not used your MH at all, because it's not supported on Mac? Bootcamp, VM Fusion, or Parallel you computer with some version of Windows as the secondary. If you already have your Mac with Windows capability, then try Sign Blazer, it's free and it works! It's going to be a new learning curve, but all software is. I hate learning new software too , but once I get the hang of it, it was worth the hair pulling and aggravation. In other words, is the software what makes the cutter incompatible with mac products? In a simple answer - Yes. Not so much as the software, but the driver that allows you to communicate with the cutter successfully. Is there a way to possibly force feed the Mac to cut on your MH - possibly. But you'd need mad skills to know what to try, be creative to think of a gazillion workarounds, and super patient to try them all. If you really want a cutter that will be Mac friendly, my advice would be to sell the MH, and get one that is supported for Mac.
  22. 2 points
    Links from 2014 have been changed, and the CURRENT (not publicized) USCutter archive for the v7.0.0 hybrid of SignBlazer is found HERE ----> http://www.uscuttersupport.com/downloads/Software/SignBlazer/signblazer_setup.exe and the operations manual (.pdf) -- remember it contains features not available in the Elements program (and Pro is no longer available, with all the different options for RIP, etc.) http://www.uscuttersupport.com/downloads/Software/SignBlazer/signblazer_manual.pdf Both of these links are NOT displayed or linked from the US CUTTER support pages anymore. Also, disable anti-virus software before downloading or installing, as the version of the application offered above has a code in it that will alert the protection scheme, but is actually harmless (it's a code that eliminates the Registration in SBE, as that is no longer required since the software is abandonware at this point).
  23. 2 points
    I bought my FC7000-Mk2-75 new in 2008, Paid $3000 . I have NEVER had a problem with it and cut almost daily. I had my cutter paid off in about 5-6 weeks. The cutter still cuts like new. That is 11 years on a $3000 investment, I have NEVER had to replace anything other than blades, which last about 9 months. I turn my cutter on and I know it will cut correctly every time. My cutter is a 30" so I can do larger jobs in 1 piece that others cannot. Even after 11 years. I would not have a problem getting $1500- $1800 out of this machine. Because it still cuts great and it is a Graphtec. Plus it has the media basket. Also my family owns 2 Graphtec CE5000-60, 7 years now, and never problems.
  24. 2 points
    I’ve worked with a couple programs from various shops I worked at... a couple of them would tell the time remaining for the cut job. i do have to say I like the cut quality of the graphtec over the Titan 3. Corners are a bit sharper and cuts are more consistent. I basically run that thing 3 days a week for 6 hours at a time in 5100 series reflective and it just eats it up. The blades are lasting quite a bit longer (same company, same degree...)
  25. 2 points
    It's still customized, but here's your base font: Earth Quest.