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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/01/2021 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    I and many people only use 60 degree all of the time. Cut slow, and make sure you have your blade depth set correctly. Do not use any instructions that have to do with using a credit card or post it notes. You set your blade depth to the vinyl that you are cutting. Make sure you have a sharp blade. Metal vinyl will dull blades fast. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade.
  2. 3 points
    pretty much most of the posts anymore,, are hit and runs. I wanted to see if some of our advice has worked or not, and people never come back. I had to disable messages a while back. People were just signing up, then just sending me messages for help everyday. Never posting on the forum. Nope, I wasn't going to do that.
  3. 3 points
    Glitter will require more force (which is a higher number), if you've done a force trial and error on any regular HTV vinyl, or any regular PSV vinyl, then you would have discovered those results. There is not specific force number that we can give to you (for any kind of vinyl) - we don't know what brand of vinyl you're using, we don't know the age of your vinyl, we don't know the condition of cutting strip, we don't know the age and condition of the blade you're using, we don't know what angle blade you're using, we don't know the design that you're cutting - whether is it's just basic shapes or big text, or if it's something intricate, etc. Yes, all of these things are factors. I know you don't want to waste your time and vinyl, however, we've guided you as best as possible and from this point forth, it really and truly is dependent on your specific machine (because same model machines can require different levels of force, but that's just how sensitive some of the parameters), so you really need to trial and error this on your own to get it dialed in. ... and there are times where it's just better to go over the design twice. Meaning, if you're not getting it to cut through just the first time around, it might require two passes. The trick to that is just get your design and do a copy and paste, but leave the second copy sitting on the original. If that's something that turns out to working better for you, then write that down. I have a running Google sheet that has my settings for which vinyl, using specific speeds, specific force, etc. It's not set in stone, because as the vinyl I have ages, those settings have to change. I don't go through inventory like a lot of other members here do, so it can get tricky, but at least it's a jumping off point and I tweak from there and update the numbers.
  4. 3 points
    Here you go Slice. The wife ironed them on today and we are both pretty happy with the results. After this pic I attached the carpet to the backer board with some contact cement and it is airing out the rest of today and overnight before I mount it in the truck. Maybe it was beginners luck, but it was a pretty neat little project. Unfortunately, wifey is now stoked about doing some T shirts for her nephews! Oh well, they will be cheap birthday presents this year, there is that
  5. 3 points
    Just got off the phone with them and they are sending a new MB out. Thank you for your help!
  6. 3 points
    I've not been doing a whole lot of vinyl as other demands have taken my time and energies. But, I did do this custom mirror for our son and his girlfriend. They moved to Ohio and bought a house a couple years ago. On one of our trips we toured the Ohio State Supreme Court building. A really fine piece of 1930's art deco architecture and a lot to see inside, and it is open to visit! On the top floor is the law library. On the ends of the shelving were the index signs for that row. I really liked the "Ohio" that was used in the sign. So I asked if I could do a mirror for the young one's in a sort of art deco style for them. They are trying to keep to a mid-century modern style in the house so they jumped on it. My results: Late edit. Should have added that it is reverse etched and painted. As it turned out, it really didn't need the reversing!
  7. 2 points
    how small is small? like skeeter said, go slow, use a 60* and do not be in any rush for it.
  8. 2 points
    I see you were able to figure it out but for future reference this is a very easy way to accomplish what you were asking and it can be done entirely in VM Cut.
  9. 2 points
    I use a Crop-A-Dile too........Does both 1/4" & 1/2" corners. Ran about $25
  10. 2 points
    For a rounder I used a crop a dile from hobby lobby for years
  11. 2 points
    Contact Vinyl master support, We are just volunteers/users here who have nothing to do with licenses.
  12. 2 points
    This is a common problem on the MH plotters and is usually a simple case of the Z-chip has gone bad. The z-chip is a simple op-amp and can be replaced. Older MH cutters had the chip in a socket, newer cutters it is soldered to the board. Chances are good it is the same with the Seiki plotter and just replacing the z-chip will get you up and running again.
  13. 2 points
    Well, unless he's like 3-years old or something. I am not ashamed to admit that I schedule dinner 'genius' appointments with the 6-year old niece, so she can show me cool things on my iPhone.
  14. 2 points
    Just have him do it. He'll sit down, hit about 3 buttons and it'll start working, darn kids and tech. ha!
  15. 2 points
    A trick that I would do for one of the local volleyball clubs, they were applying 651 to plastic water jugs, the type that is shiny and mildly textured. What seemed to help get a more last adhesion was to hit it with a hair blow dryer for a little bit, just to warm up the adhesive a bit. I noticed it stuck a little better through their washing and rinsing.
  16. 2 points
    I blast with aluminum oxide. It's a harder material and will last longer then glass bead or walnut. Take note though, it can damage thin pieces of metal. However, for cups you shouldn't have a problem. As for grit, that is personal preference really. The courser the grit the more "textured" the metal will be. I forget what I have but I think it's like 120. As for vinyl to use, I just use scrap Green Star or Oracle 651. So long as you're not trying to do fine detail work, generic vinyl has worked well enough. My problem is cutting through the powder coat can take awhile and I often blast through the vinyl. Granted this is self applied powder, seems like I recall stuff on the cups from the store was easier to cut through.
  17. 1 point
    Thanks, so with that answer, I'm guessing either one will work.
  18. 1 point
    What is happening, or not happening when you try to open them? Does it give you an error? Does it do nothing? Do it cause VM to stop responding? What version fo VM are you using? Was there a recent update in Windows 10? Is it VM files you're trying to open, or are you trying to get designs to open in VM?
  19. 1 point
    I agre as long as you have the user name and code to enter with the dongle
  20. 1 point
    Definitely worth trying the dongle once the drivers are loaded. I had the cover on one of mine pull off. Super glued it back on and it's been fine.
  21. 1 point
    You are doing something that no one can help you with. We don't do that. We use cutting software to cut with. Our cutters have the Command right on it. Why are you going that route?
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    You need to look at the software that is used for this cutter and determine which file formats it accepts. Very few people here use craft cutters who can even answer that question. Check the user manual for your software.
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    Well, it's late, I'm watching the snowfall accumulate, let's take a crack at this one! First of all, midniter, what program is cutting? Now, I have heard there is a thing called a "Stray node" and from your description about the 'bad file' this may be something to explore. Since we cannot see the image you are trying to cut (you could post it, if you want) I am going out on a limb here and figuring it is composed of several (imported) elements? It's possible one of those contains the dreaded stray node. Let's look into this direction and see what comes of it.