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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/22/2018 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Made this for a customer 9 in X 40 in mark-s
  2. 3 points
    I think some of the problem with fonts is they have "evolved" or maybe Devolved and there is apparently less uniformity. If THATS all your upset about as far as font's go you will probably fight that in almost all programs. Your background in typography may be a blessing and a curse. To tell the truth I usually make a rectangle box that is the exact height I want for a given font and then type on top of it and adjust until it's where I want it. If I think I will be doing MORE later as your project suggest I typically keep a working file with the various fonts styles and sizes over on one side and so the next time you can just grab the specific font for a specific spot on your sign and just retype the new words and save if off as a new cut file.
  3. 3 points
    That was definitely an old support thread, and since then, they've come out with newer models and some of the those have since cease to be Mac compatible. It's very unfortunate that when you contacted them directly, to totally skimmed over your comment about specifically selecting the SC2. That being said, if you want a Mac compatible cutter, it needs to be a Titan series or better if you're looking at new machines. Breaking even on your first job, whether you're a sign shop or not, is awesome, but not always reality. If you have to cut several boards to break even, that's a bit more realistic - even when buying a cheap machine. As Skeeter said, the lower end cutters have a more difficult time with cutting smaller font. What is the smallest font that you will be cutting, but in all honesty - that's a LOT of weeding, and if it's going to be small font, you might learn pretty quick that you'd rather pay the sign shop to print it. There are other cost that will go into it, not just the machine, the vinyl (is the menu board inside or outside - so you can use the best vinyl for that purpose), application tape, substrate, etc. If you still choose to fall down this rabbit hole, just remember that those of us here are actually trying to help you the best we can, but at the end of the day - it's still a bunch of volunteer users helping others.
  4. 2 points
    If you have a specific goal in mind with what you plan to use the cutter for I'd skip the bundle. Get the cutter and software, should be included, a stand for the cutter (not absolutely necessary but very worth having) and get a roll or two of vinyl in the colors you want. That's all you really need. Everything else you might need can be found a local stores or improvised with stuff laying around the house.
  5. 2 points
    Get Clean Cut Blades. They're wicked sharp and last a good long time, unless you abuse them.
  6. 2 points
    Break apart the design then apply a color to the various sections.
  7. 2 points
    Link to the svg. Maybe save as eps from Inkscape. Many programs have a quirk with svg's when the units are not set to pixels.
  8. 2 points
    They have some that is resistant to dye migration if you are pressing onto polyester darks and particularly sublimated shirts. There are two levels of polyester and if the outside is dark or colorful and the inside is white they blow a LOT of sublimation off and it will migrate. You can get a little migration from any polyester but most of it doesn't give me problems unless they are the true sublimated or a mix of the two. It will all make sense once it happens to you. That's the school of hard knocks part. LOL
  9. 2 points
    I may see if they can just purchase from US Cutter and get the Siser everybody talks about on here.
  10. 2 points
    With the Text Tool selected, adjust the "Physical Size" of your Glyph(s) where Highlighted in red circle. Use the Select (Arrow) Tool to Adjust the Height or Width (Left of Padlock). Unlock Proportions (Padlock icon) if you need to adjust Height & Width separately.
  11. 1 point
    Do what you gotta do to make it work. Try to set some money aside from every job, so that you can eventually buy some vinyl.
  12. 1 point
    If you want a USB cutter that's pretty much plug'n'play for Mac, then bite the bullet and get yourself a Graphtec. It even ships with it's own software (which you need to download), and plug-in's so it can cut from different design programs. Boom! The total package. USC could potentially bring the cutter hardware up to date, but then they would need to sell it around the prices of the Graphtec. Cutters/Plotters and huge deals to some of us, but make no mistake, the average business and household doesn't have one, so there's no mad push to pour tons of money into re-engineering it to bring it up to date. Does it suck? Yes. Do we make it work? Yes.
  13. 1 point
    bust the budget by $20 and get the SC2.
  14. 1 point
    a 60-degree will typically work better on the smaller/finer cuts. the next question would be, how small are the cuts you're you making, because sometimes small is simply way too small ... and sometimes the design is a bit too congested with too many nodes. check your blade depth, and it also helps to slow the blade. make sure you also have a sharp blade (I love Clean Cut blades), and check your blade holder to make sure there's no debris in it that would hinder the blade rotation.
  15. 1 point
    Dunkin' is throwing away the ‘Donuts' in their name brand. Dunkin' Brands Group Inc. announced Tuesday that it will officially change the chain's name from "Dunkin' Donuts" to simply "Dunkin.'" The change will be effective January 2019, and will be reflected on all packaging, as well as the company's advertising and website. All new and remodeled stores in the U.S. will use the new 'Dunkin' logo on interior and exterior signage. (Boston Business Journal)
  16. 1 point
    If you have the correct blade exposure, then the next step is to slow down the cut speed, get a 60-degree blade, clean-up the design (if needed, by checking the nodes), and/or a combination or all of the above. If small bits of vinyl are getting lifted, you might want to also check your blade holder to maker sure itty bitty pieces don't get randomly stuck in there.
  17. 1 point
    So I called support and the issue was that I had originally selected the titan2 instead of the titan2SE in the software menu. I was on the phone for over an hour because I just chose the wrong cutter!
  18. 1 point
    Because SVG is an open format not all programs implement it exactly the same way. I suspect what is happening here is the way Inkscape implements the rounded corners is not supported in SCALP. When you save it off as an EPS the box with rounded corners which is an object is converted to a path and therefor opens in SCALP exactly as you expect. As an experiment, try converting your box with rounded corners to a path and then save the file as an SVG and open it with SCALP. I suspect it'll open correctly that way.
  19. 1 point
    hmm I am running ve-lxi master plus 10.5 and 12 - interesting . . . . but I have always exported all work in .eps since back when I used signblazer for incompatibility with other programs and customers.
  20. 1 point
    Thank you Skeeter, I understand that and at one point did run Windows on parallel but had more issues. CM3 ran great through AI and MAC and have only had issues since I had to upgrade to CM4. I prefer running MAC
  21. 1 point
    How did you set your blade depth? Those cutters really need tweeking for any fine detail. And how small /large is the text? I don't think you can cut real slow on those cutters.
  22. 1 point
    I run a Mac with Win7 on Parallels. I also just picked up a CE6000-60 plus as a back-up cutter, although now it's become my primary because it's soooo much better than my first one. The first thing I did was test on both platforms, and I was able to cut through both - so no worries there! Admittedly I did not try the Mac plugin through AI, as I am totally unfamiliar with AI, but I was able to use the Graphtec design/cut software to get stuff done on the Mac side. Definitely go with the 24", because you will regret getting the 15" if you go that route. This would be link you would need to put together a setup for yourself. https://www.uscutter.com/Graphtec-CE-6000-Vinyl-Cutter-with-FREE-Clamshell-Heat-Press I don't know much about heat presses, but hey - it's free! You do NOT need to add in any extra software. When you receive your Graphtec, there's a sheet in the box with the instructions on how to download the necessary software/plug-in's directly from their website. Good luck! Happy cutting!
  23. 1 point
    I agree with Dakota. Lots of confusion there if you are unfamiliar with the cutter jargon. Most of the cutter manufacturers stick with the 40/60/75/120 ending numbers after the model to signify the size in CM. So a 60 is a 24" cutter and absolutely 110% worth the extra cash.
  24. 1 point
    We see you have found that by switching on or off what is traced in the color bar deals with alpha channel bitmaps. Since this technique/process can be unclear to new users we will modify the Vectorizer to better handle images with transparencies. Thank you for you input.
  25. 1 point
    missed that part - as I scanned the message - my bad. glad you got it worked out - that is a ambitious project to start out with. chrome is very hard on blades and touchy on a properly set blade depth