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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/11/2020 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    For the 2 or 3 members who were recently in a topic called "help" with a brand new person asking for help. I had to eject them from the conversation and ban them due to immediate attitude, foul language and an apparent unwillingness to take well meaning help with even the slightest grain of salt. I do think sometimes you guys get a little tough on the Mac people and I AM a mac people so I can say that without it being racist. <sarcasm> He/they read the worst possible tone into Skeeters response and while I was trying to send a calm down and rethink your response post he/they posted an f bomb thus ending our association with them. That kind of thing doesn't belong on the forum and I am writing this hoping they read it and realize they probably just pooped in the best bowl of cheerios they could have and good luck finding helpful people on any of the other user forums.
  2. 4 points
    You can look for a used Graphtec cutter also. I picked one up for a very good price a few years ago. You already know what a cutter can and will do.
  3. 3 points
    My bet is on the wrong Command for the software. This is even on the UScutter site. It is the same for all Graphtecs.
  4. 2 points
    Grasshopper you have learned well....LOL Good Job Scott mark-s
  5. 2 points
    r's are different - I am calling custom artwork
  6. 2 points
    I suspect it's the transparent background of PNG and SVG files that occasionally causes problems. Also, be aware, going from png to jpg you can loose some detail, probably not a problem in this case. To preserve detail of a png files and loose the transparent background convert it to a bmp file.
  7. 2 points
    unplug it - quiets right down - but seriously the stepper motor cutters are noisy and just the way they are. buy a graphtec and be amazed at how quiet they are
  8. 2 points
    Servo motor will be more accurate and much quieter than a stepper motor. When it comes to cutters, buy the best that's within your budget. Think of the largest design you think you''l cut, then see if that's a machine that you have the footprint for, or the budget for it. I've had a 24" for 12+ years, and when it was time for me to upgrade, I got a Graphtec 24". Only once was there a request for something much larger than what my machines could handle (and what I could strategically layout with my 24"). For that, I outsourced it and couldn't be happier. I can spare the footprint for a wider machine, but not the work surface needed to properly handle wider vinyl, so I knew better than to shoot myself in the foot by buying a machine I might be able to afford, but realistically couldn't handle the the output product. [I am only willing to clear off my dining room table so many times, and for a very, very short amount of time.]. I can only image what it would be like to try and app tape something wide, without the proper functional space. If you think you'll can get your money back on it, then if you can stretch the budget, see if you can get yourself a Graphtec. I promise, you won't be sorry. No matter what machine you end up with, get yourself a Clean Cut Blade, a 60* one if you think that you'll be cutting itty bitty things, tiny text, or intricate stuff.
  9. 2 points
    I am looking at Titan cutters as we speak and I feel that may be the direction I go... I like the fact it can do contour cutting and that may come in handy considering I have done a few PTC projects with the Circut and understand how that works a little bit. I was really considering the MH but the reviews have lead me away from them...
  10. 2 points
    step up to at least a sc plotter and if you can swing it a titan. many of us that do precision work all the time have worked up over time to the graphtec plotters but that will give you sever sticker shock at this time. I highly recommend not even considering the MH - it is the bottom of the barrel, get em hooked plotter and I am sure you would be greatly disappointed in that level of plotter
  11. 2 points
    Help us out by telling us the make and model of the cutter you do have. Have you tried checking your cutter manufacturer's website to see if they have replacement pinch rollers? FYI - when not using your cutter, I'd recommend the pinch rollers be in the 'up' position, to avoid any potential flat spots.
  12. 2 points
    are you using a vinyl made for shirts - are you using a heat press to apply it? Time, pressure and Temp are all 3 important for HTV
  13. 2 points
    If you really want to open up your world get in to CNC it`s a whole nother world, I love it.
  14. 2 points
    eco solvent and laminate - just make sure you have the business to keep it printing every couple of days or maint cost will eat you alive after spending all that money. I discovered that even with my roland doing multiple cleanings daily on a 3 week vacation I could almost plan on putting at least one $700 head in the printer when I returned - I tried to budget $1K per year maint to keep it printing with no dropped nozzles. Printers are sexy but too many people get them that don't have the business to keep them going without problems
  15. 2 points
    I did not write this. I saved it from another user who had this problem. Maybe it will help. We saw this come up several times for a while. "Fixed problem after 2 hours with tec support and they could not fix so they sent ticket to Australia and said it would be 2-3 days but for some reason 3 hours later they emailed me Can you please go into the Vinyl Spooler, and from the "Settings" menu, ensure that "Force Position" is NOT selected. If it wasn't, go to the connection tab in the vinyl spooler and temporarily change the Port method to "Windows Port" and select "File". Select the file that had the problem and click "Cut now". Instead of sending the data to the cutter, it will prompt you to save a PLT file. Email this PLT file to tbtech@iifuture.com and we will check the cutting data that would be sent to the machine to rule out any software settings for you. But the force position was checked so I unchecked it and tried it and guess what it worked just fine. It didn't even occur to them that it might be checked. So I am a happy camper now. Thanks to all that tried to help me. Go into the Vinyl Spooler, and from the "Settings" menu, ensure that "Force Position" is NOT selected. Also make sure that the vinyl is only about 1 inch from the far right side of the vinyl cutter. "
  16. 1 point
    Make sure the blade holder is properly seated in the retainer arm. Don't slide that far-right pressure roller over so far, it needs to be positioned with the grit rollers beneath (the farthest-right position will miss the lower roller, the manufacturer should have put in a stop-screw on the back rail to prevent that, but they didn't, so the user has to pay attention to avoiding that spot).
  17. 1 point
    Agree with what others have said. I have a MH and while I can get it to do what I need usually, it was not an easy process to get there. Coming from a Cricuit you would be highly disappointed in the MH. I believe in order to match the cut quality of the Cricuit on a large plotter you would need something in the Graphtec range. The Cricuits are really quite good at small stuff. You mentioned a 34" cutter. What exactly are you planning on? Often times people think they want the biggest they can get but in the end find out that a 24" would meet 90% of their needs and the rare times they need something bigger the design can usually be broken up to fit a 24" cutter anyway.
  18. 1 point
    the titans also have a much better usb chipset than any of the plotters below them - I had a titan2 for a while.
  19. 1 point
    What is the blue part on the holder for? By the way, never have I ever seen such a blade holder. This is what a Roland Blade holder looks like in the US.and it is adjustable. You may not get anywhere until you get a real blade holder and blades. What your showing, looks like some kind of throw away. https://www.uscutter.com/Roland-Blade-Holder You need this, and it is not in stock. Possibly can pick one up at another cutter dealer or Ebay. https://www.xpres.co.uk/roland-gx24-blade-holder-xd-ch3
  20. 1 point
    That vinyl will dull blades really fast. Are you working with a new sharp 60 degree blade?
  21. 1 point
    So I still struggle sometimes with HTV cutting with no mat and wanted to get some input from people with more experience. Since moving to my new machine and having more pinch roller area, I feel I have more adjustability, but depending on the size of HTV I run and how big the cut is, I still am ending up with misscuts from the vinyl pulling up when the machine is moving the head from the outside in it seems. Some things I have learned are: Spread the pinch rollers out as far as I can and keep the cuts within them 15" HTV seems to fit the rollers best if I put it to the far left of my machine and I just just barely get the pinchrollers on the very outside of the vinyl 12" HTV seems to fit the right most rollers the best. Again I can just barely get them to the outsides of the vinyl. Unroll enough for my job so that I am not pulling from the roll directly. Doing these steps makes life easier, but I still feel like I am having occasional problems. I am not sure if it is dependant on the cut, or just workable area. I would like to figure out what I am doing wrong as this just wastes material and it sucks stressing about finishing a job due to wasted material I do not prefer using the cutting mat most of the time just because I can just run a bunch of cuts in a row if needed without having to worry about setting the mat up for every cut (assuming all goes well). Another reason is because I need to pull my machine out another foot from the wall to run the mat and that can get annoying as well. Any suggestions for the pros on more efficient working with HTV when you do not have a machine with vacuum built in to suck it down?
  22. 1 point
    You are not understanding my comment. To set your blade properly regardless of cutting force/ pressure applied is to remove it from the machine and drag it with some force (not excessive) across a scrap piece of sign vinyl. The idea is to set it so that the blade can cut all the way through the vinyl but not all the way through the paper carrier too. Once you have this set then you re-install the blade holder back into the cutter and begin adjusting your cutting force from a light setting working into the cut until it cuts all the way through and leaves a light scratch on the paper carrier. It is fine to see a scratch on the carrier but you should not be able to feel it from the back side. When you get your blade set and cutting like this you should still be able to see some clear space between the blade holder and the actual surface of the vinyl. In other words when you are cutting (after having done the proper set up) your blade holder should still be slightly above the vinyl while the blade cuts. You will have to bend down and look at the job as it's cutting and perhaps shine a light from behind or something so you can see if there is a tiny bit of clear space. It will be less than a piece of paper wide but visible by the eye.
  23. 1 point
    If you put a roll in and hit sheet it will unroll the entire roll looking for the end of that sheet, that is why if it is a roll , you select roll
  24. 1 point
    That sounds like those papers are for a White Toner Printer, such as an OKI, or Uninet printer. The Uninet printer has sublimation toner to use for purpose.
  25. 1 point
    Make sure the design is not double layered.. Zoom on wire frame, edit the nodes and see if there is another of the same design under it. Sometimes white will be another layer