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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/21/2018 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    remember a titan is a stepper motor and a titan2 or 3 have servo motors - both have much improved chipsets for the usb over the value cutters. if you ask a salesman for advice he will steer you toward his highest commission as the turnover on sales staff is very high - the user forum have people with real world experience. Heard last week a salesman was recommending the cheap chinese blades over the cleancut blades - now other than 2 member I know of that would disagree try to find very many that would agree with that - that have actually used cleancut blades and cheap blades. the people on the forum including the mods are not paid and actual users of the equipment
  2. 5 points
    Just a few more I've done. https://www.etsy.com/shop/GoCCreations
  3. 5 points
    Just finished these today. mark-s
  4. 4 points
    for personal use, not for sale. mark-s
  5. 4 points
    Even if you don't hit big and rake in lots of money the higher end machines are still a good idea as they will pay for themselves eventually even if you do nothing more than use them as a hobby and sell stuff to friends and family. And if/when you decide you want to get out of it all together they'll have a higher resale as well. Basically what I'm saying, is don't worry about throwing the money away, it'll come back eventually. Regarding amazon vs person web page, I can't speak much to that other than to say when I think of custom/personalized stuff, I don't think of Amazon so i question how much traffic would you actually see.
  6. 4 points
    There are many graphic installers out there that do this for a living.. Many people install their own decals. Many videos on you tube to install vinyl graphics, of any size. I started with large graphics from the git go. I use up scraps from the larger to make smaller decals, just so that it doesn't go to waste. Those decals are just my time.. I don't apply anything, I work from my home. I am probably quite a bit older than you are, I worked at a factory for 30 years and it closed. So I reinvented myself, and have been doing this for 12 years.
  7. 4 points
    Also, it's not absolutely critical it all goes straight. If your design doesn't use up the whole width, and is not too long a little drift won't matter. The tracking for the design will still be good just not aligned to the edges, not really a big deal.
  8. 3 points
    You set the blade like you would any blade. You have to back the force way down because it is a new blade and has more steel left on the blade. Those blades are very sharp. You use the regular CB09U setting. This is how to set any blade for any cutter. They all set the same. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should just barely see and feel the blade tip out of the blade holder.
  9. 3 points
    I pretty much quit installing on walls for this very reason. Even when the paint isn't a problem the walls are usually dusty and problematic. I think I've had worse luck when trying to clean them with anything other than a dry microfiber towel. My prices went to high due to actual time spent that the clients were getting upset thinking I was gouging them. After I stopped installing and they did a couple on their own they actually commented that they would be willing to pay the higher price but I still begged off. LOL
  10. 3 points
    It's the difference between: Just spending money and spending money wisely............. Sue2
  11. 3 points
    Ignore the lines, they seldom line up front-to-back. Place your vinyl against a line on the front that you can see and then have the plotter feed it forward a few feet. If the vinyl starts to stray, release the pinch rollers and adjust it a little. Repeat until it's feeding straight. The first hundred times it seems to take forever, but before long it becomes second nature. A few other useful hints I picked up from others on the board... - Never, ever, ever put your vinyl all the way to one side or the other, it has to have room to move. - Use all of your pinch rollers. - Make sure your pinch rollers are clean, top and bottom. A stray piece of vinyl (or dog hair, in my case) will dent the vinyl at best. At worst, it throws off the tracking. - Manually unroll more vinyl than you need and leave it hanging between the back of the plotter and the roll. If the machine has to pull it off the roll it will make a big old mess.
  12. 3 points
    Custom cell phone holder. Completed and delivered today. mark-s
  13. 2 points
    leave your offset at 0
  14. 2 points
    Are you sure you bought a Laser Pointer 2? As Laser pointer 2 has not been sold for a while on UScutter. ( Was it a refurb cutter?) UScutter have been selling Laser Pointer 3. for awhile now. So after you downloaded the Laser pointer 2 driver, you went ahead and extracted it, as you should? Then you rebooted your computer? Plugged the USB cable into your computer and matched the device manager to your Sure Cuts A lot. USB port. If the driver shows an error beside it, then it would be the driver is not installed most likely. Try uninstalling it, then reinstalling it. But Sure Cuts 3 A Lot is a flaky software. I hear version 4 is much better. You should have chosen Vinyl Master. In my opinion. But like the others say, try a different software. Even Vinyl Master has a trial.
  15. 2 points
    I have never done a rhinestone transfer and would like to try it out. I have a cutter. I have some template material. I did some tests cuts on it and the machine can cut through it well enough, and I can weed it. I have some ss10, ss16 and ss30 stones. I don't have any Rhinestone design software, but I can use CorelDraw well enough to do some basic designs. If I can test and the whole thing seems viable I might invest in some rstone software. What I don't have is a clear understanding of what size to set my circles I use in the designs in CorelDraw for each type of stone, (ss10, ss16, ect.) When I look online there are multiple suggestions and it seems no definitive guide to cutting sizes. Does anyone have a chart or know a resource that would show me the best cutting size for each stone? I don't even have a good starting point for plain ole trial and error.
  16. 2 points
    I'm with all the previous posts. We usually recommend to buy the best you can afford but the water gets a little murky in the middle. There is the super budget MH which is truly for the very timid and also one that is the hardest to make work well. The next few steps up are pretty similar until you start into the servo motors and then there is another jump up to higher quality. I think those who have the servo titans have good luck and the new SC seems to do pretty well for itself as a stepper. I started with a Creation P-Cut which they no longer offer but was at the time a small step above the SC. Probably below the new SC2 would be my guess. I ran it for a couple years and got by. Learned a lot of valuable lessons that you won't learn with a higher end because they just work without a bunch of adjustment. I saved up and finally dropped a few thousand on my current cutter and wow what a difference. If you buy a cutter and take the time to learn the whole gambit you will definitely earn a return if you are even remotely savvy. The whole gambit includes graphic work, using your cutter, application, and most likely other offshoot branches such as heat transfer vinyl (t-shirts). For me this started out as a new hobby and POTENTIAL revenue stream. 7 years later we did 80K gross income in our dining room in the evenings and weekends. Even if I ever get tired of it being WORK I will never be without a vinyl cutter again in my life (if I have any choice in the matter.) WAY TOO MUCH FUN and the absolute first hobby I have ever had that actually MAKES money instead of costing. I still do lots of freebie funs stuff for friends and family which is why I bought the stuff in the first place.
  17. 2 points
    For under $1000, the Titan 2, it has a servo motor, more accurate, and quiet. A 24" width is standard width for a vinyl cutter. 12" wide rolls work just fine on a 24" cutter. The value cutters can do smaller text, but not as good as a cutter with a servo motor. Will take a lot more tinkering with it. You do not want a cutter below 24". The Titan 2 is on sale right now for $799, best bet for a servo cutter. Saving $200 https://www.uscutter.com/Titan-2-SE-Vinyl-Cutter Why are you worried about what others are doing in the Bay Area? I thought you are selling online.. I live in a small town in the midwest. I only sell online and have no problems doing it. I sell to 50 states. It also takes a lot of hoops to jump to sell on Amazon. A guy on here just went thru that.
  18. 2 points
    Also best to have the outside pinch rollers the same distance from the edge of the vinyl. It's like tires on a car, they have to be equal distance or it will throw you off. I even use a tape measure at times, when I have a big checkered pattern or such, that is really noticeable and must be perfect match.
  19. 2 points
    I will jog my vinyl back and forth, using the ruler tick mark (or anything else) as a fixed reference point and see if the vinyl strays one way or another, and make adjustments then. Straight off the roller, and if the design isn't exceptional long, I'm good with just pull so that there is equal tension off the roller and locking it down that way. If it's a small(ish) design and you don't have to be that critical with the design cutting off the vinyl, it's not worth the stress of getting the cutter to feed ram rod straight.
  20. 2 points
  21. 1 point
    After thinking about my statement in doing the measurements I realized that would be of no use in this situation. Typically the wire running to the switch and fuse should be the hot wire. I found a chart with various wire colors and it does look like Yellow is pretty common for a hot line. Green and Green/Yellow are earth ground, not seeing either color referenced as a Neutral. Now electrically, both neutral and earth are tied together back where it comes into the house, so for functionality, you should be ok with either wire in either location. HOWEVER, from a safety standpoint, you really need to have the correct wires connected. You take your meter and set it to measure resistance, the omega symbol, and measure from the end of the green/yellow wire to bare metal on the cutter and measure from the green wire to bare metal, once should be nearly zero, the other will be a bit higher. The one that is nearly zero would be your earth wire.
  22. 1 point
    Man that is a tough one
  23. 1 point
    As Dakota said, it's just a simple momentary switch, you should be able to pick up something at your local electronics store and make it work. You don't need something the exact shape or size. Just something you can affix to the cutter in the correct location. May not look pretty but you can do quite a bit with super glue, hot glue, and solder. I can't tell exactly from your photos, but is it just a case of the wires came disconnected? If so, a little bit of soldering should take care of that.
  24. 1 point
    seems like slice n dice had a tip on loosening a screw on that one to let it move some - hopefully he will chime in @slice&dice
  25. 1 point
    KDM - I agree with haumana, that you are to be commended for giving AI a shot. Regarding the cut of that design, though, gets back to what Mz Skeeter was trying to help you with. AI does not tell your machine how to cut, or how deep to cut - or anything other than where to cut, from this point to that point. If you have a second layer in your design, the machine is still only being told to cut from point A to point B a second or third time. If your blade depth is set correctly, a second cut or even a third cut on the same path will not cut through the backing paper. That is from the voice of experience... I usually always do designs with the pen tool first, and that is one of the reasons why.