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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/28/2021 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    Glitter will require more force (which is a higher number), if you've done a force trial and error on any regular HTV vinyl, or any regular PSV vinyl, then you would have discovered those results. There is not specific force number that we can give to you (for any kind of vinyl) - we don't know what brand of vinyl you're using, we don't know the age of your vinyl, we don't know the condition of cutting strip, we don't know the age and condition of the blade you're using, we don't know what angle blade you're using, we don't know the design that you're cutting - whether is it's just basic shapes or big text, or if it's something intricate, etc. Yes, all of these things are factors. I know you don't want to waste your time and vinyl, however, we've guided you as best as possible and from this point forth, it really and truly is dependent on your specific machine (because same model machines can require different levels of force, but that's just how sensitive some of the parameters), so you really need to trial and error this on your own to get it dialed in. ... and there are times where it's just better to go over the design twice. Meaning, if you're not getting it to cut through just the first time around, it might require two passes. The trick to that is just get your design and do a copy and paste, but leave the second copy sitting on the original. If that's something that turns out to working better for you, then write that down. I have a running Google sheet that has my settings for which vinyl, using specific speeds, specific force, etc. It's not set in stone, because as the vinyl I have ages, those settings have to change. I don't go through inventory like a lot of other members here do, so it can get tricky, but at least it's a jumping off point and I tweak from there and update the numbers.
  2. 3 points
    Here you go Slice. The wife ironed them on today and we are both pretty happy with the results. After this pic I attached the carpet to the backer board with some contact cement and it is airing out the rest of today and overnight before I mount it in the truck. Maybe it was beginners luck, but it was a pretty neat little project. Unfortunately, wifey is now stoked about doing some T shirts for her nephews! Oh well, they will be cheap birthday presents this year, there is that
  3. 3 points
    Just got off the phone with them and they are sending a new MB out. Thank you for your help!
  4. 3 points
    I've not been doing a whole lot of vinyl as other demands have taken my time and energies. But, I did do this custom mirror for our son and his girlfriend. They moved to Ohio and bought a house a couple years ago. On one of our trips we toured the Ohio State Supreme Court building. A really fine piece of 1930's art deco architecture and a lot to see inside, and it is open to visit! On the top floor is the law library. On the ends of the shelving were the index signs for that row. I really liked the "Ohio" that was used in the sign. So I asked if I could do a mirror for the young one's in a sort of art deco style for them. They are trying to keep to a mid-century modern style in the house so they jumped on it. My results: Late edit. Should have added that it is reverse etched and painted. As it turned out, it really didn't need the reversing!
  5. 3 points
    If you are trying to get text at a specific size I make a rectangle the height I want my text and then set my text on too of that the figure out how many points it needs to be. Fonts can be very different depending on how they were made and 100pt in one font does not end up the same in others.
  6. 3 points
    Magnet material is white. Just apply colored vinyl to it.
  7. 2 points
    I use a Crop-A-Dile too........Does both 1/4" & 1/2" corners. Ran about $25
  8. 2 points
    For a rounder I used a crop a dile from hobby lobby for years
  9. 2 points
    Contact Vinyl master support, We are just volunteers/users here who have nothing to do with licenses.
  10. 2 points
    This is a common problem on the MH plotters and is usually a simple case of the Z-chip has gone bad. The z-chip is a simple op-amp and can be replaced. Older MH cutters had the chip in a socket, newer cutters it is soldered to the board. Chances are good it is the same with the Seiki plotter and just replacing the z-chip will get you up and running again.
  11. 2 points
    Well, unless he's like 3-years old or something. I am not ashamed to admit that I schedule dinner 'genius' appointments with the 6-year old niece, so she can show me cool things on my iPhone.
  12. 2 points
    Just have him do it. He'll sit down, hit about 3 buttons and it'll start working, darn kids and tech. ha!
  13. 2 points
    A trick that I would do for one of the local volleyball clubs, they were applying 651 to plastic water jugs, the type that is shiny and mildly textured. What seemed to help get a more last adhesion was to hit it with a hair blow dryer for a little bit, just to warm up the adhesive a bit. I noticed it stuck a little better through their washing and rinsing.
  14. 2 points
    I blast with aluminum oxide. It's a harder material and will last longer then glass bead or walnut. Take note though, it can damage thin pieces of metal. However, for cups you shouldn't have a problem. As for grit, that is personal preference really. The courser the grit the more "textured" the metal will be. I forget what I have but I think it's like 120. As for vinyl to use, I just use scrap Green Star or Oracle 651. So long as you're not trying to do fine detail work, generic vinyl has worked well enough. My problem is cutting through the powder coat can take awhile and I often blast through the vinyl. Granted this is self applied powder, seems like I recall stuff on the cups from the store was easier to cut through.
  15. 2 points
    If I read right, you load the paper to read registration marks, then remove the paper and load vinyl? If that is what you’re doing I think you are confused about something and making the process harder than necessary. What exactly are you trying to accomplish? I mean don’t worry about trying to tell us how you’re doing it, tell use what the final project is?
  16. 2 points
    I picked up some Siser HTV today and will hopefully practice with a few scraps to get the hang of it tomorrow.
  17. 2 points
    We have to see this end result. As the saying goes -- It never happened if there aren't photos! (or videos, even). Speaking of trucks, I wanted to do some heat-transfers onto hats for truckers (ball caps) : If You Can Read This, You're Standing Too Damn Close
  18. 2 points
    Siser SAYS it can be applied with a hand iron, at least the regular non stretch version. If you it's in a non wear location you might get it to stay. You wouldn't be out much. I would never recommend using Siser on any garment with a hand iron regardless of what they say though.
  19. 2 points
    Thanks Slice, I appreciate it!
  20. 2 points
    SOLVED! Had a Graphtec tech out this morning. He watched my methods and apparently everything I was taught was wrong! LOL. So - when I would insert the sheet, and line up with the corner mark, I would then select "Origin". I was taught by a guy who was taught by a guy who was taught .. you get the idea. Well, in most instances selecting "Origin" works, but it will almost always give the "Off Scale" warning. The proper method is to line up with the corner mark, and then hit cut from Onyx Cut Server - BINGO! But he updated and checked everything out - and the machine is now working fine. Also - on severely long sheets such as the 12 foot sheets I was cutting he showed my on Onyx Thrive 12 Cut Server where to set up the cut in segments rather than the entire sheet. Thanks for everyone's input - and maybe this will help someone in the future.
  21. 1 point
    Charlotte, I use the Lassco CR20 professional rounder 1/2" punch, but it's over $100 unit. I noticed this thing, it seems to be what you're seeking --- https://www.amazon.com/Corner-1(R4mm-R10mm)Corner-Rounder-Cutter/dp/B08L19J6ML
  22. 1 point
    I use cactus wraps in the oven, Heat is always even. Where is you find the enameled mugs coated for sublimation?
  23. 1 point
    Well, its just as everyone says. If you can even get a response from any of these companies they want proof that you have a substantial online presence. By substantial I mean your revenue is 7 figures or above and have monthly traffic numbers in the 5 digit range. They are looking to partner with companies rather than provide opportunities for a smaller company to boost sales. Just as Wildgoose stated, you might be able to form an agreement with a company who is licensed already...the problem with that is I feel I make a better product and would outsell the products they make so it isnt likely they'd agree to something like this unless you sold completely different products. I have learned that dealerships have licensing that allows them to use the specific manufacturer's logos on products and advertising. I'd need to look in to that more but that might be a potential loophole to this whole thing. I have relationship with local car dealers already so I might start talking to them about what their licensing allows.
  24. 1 point
    wondering if you ever got the license for those?
  25. 1 point
    I found this one in my files welderman.EPS