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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/23/2021 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    I have been using Main paper tape for years. Perfectear. I started with R-tape, I got a roll of Main and never looked back. I just like the way feels and rolls out out better. I get mine from a dealer in Michigan. But UScutter sells it also. Company called Nekoosa owns it now. https://uscutter.com/shop/?search_query=perfectear
  2. 3 points
    Hi thanks I tried that, just by doing the outline but it just looks inflated and the original letter stays the same size which is not 1/2 inch. Found another way by making 1/2inch rectangle shapes and stretching the length and angle to fit into each letter. Which is good in one way as it tells you the length of each one and the Led neon can only be cut at 1 inch spacing. For any of the curved sections it was a case of using the elliptical tool to make a shape which fitted perfect and then making a duplicate and then grabbing the corners to make a smaller version. Then a bit of node editing and weld them together. All a bit long winded
  3. 2 points
    Good to know. I cut a few sample decals for them, just so they can double check to see if they want to run with the color they initially chose, and once I have either a confirmation on the chosen color, I'll be putting in my order. I'm just going to keep my fingers crossed that I can get the vinyl fast enough to give myself some time and not be in a complete rush to finish the job. The one and only store that sells vinyl locally only two 10-yard rolls. The only 751 50-yard rolls they carry are white, black, and red; all other colors are in 10-yard rolls, and they only two in stock. That's not even enough vinyl to put a dent in the order.
  4. 2 points
    Siser says it can and even has hand iron install instructions. I can promis you that anyone doing it that way will NOT get the same quality of job even the poorest of clam shells can produce.
  5. 2 points
    I tend to favor higher tack. There isn't many things more frustrating than trying to do an install and having some of the letters stay on the carrier. Or worse PART of a letter and having it get stretched or ruined. If they are sizeable they will be hinging and installing in place somewhere. 751 transfers pretty good but I still sometimes fight an odd peice here and there. Maybe a greasy hand print on my part when weeding who knows. That being said, if it's going on interiror walls all bets are off. LOL
  6. 2 points
    Thanks. I don't plan on holding on to them. It's just going to be a quick as possible turnaround time for me, then all 300 decals to the customer. I'm not sure how long it's going to sit on their shelves. Nothing I can do about that though. Sometimes I wish I had more business to turnover my inventory faster, but then I think it would feel more like a regular job and might suck all the fun out of it for me Clearly I've been self-employed way too long. Hahaha.
  7. 1 point
    After more than 18 years of strictly cutting vinyl as a side gig I am taking the plunge and have ordered some equipment to upgrade. After several years of research and putting it off I have decided to purchase an HP Latex 700W, a rollsroller work table, and am upgrading my current cutter (graphtec fc7000-160) to a new FC9000. Its all been ordered and within a month I should be up and running. I am seeking advice from members of this forum who have done something similar. I prefer to learn from the mistakes of others so if you have encountered "newbie" struggles when making large purchases and care to share your experience I would appreciate it. Theres going to be a learning curve because I've never printed on vinyl...are there any resources that will help flatten this learning curve?
  8. 1 point
    Ok I adjusted the blade according to MZ SKEETER then tried to cut. After several tries and adjusting the pressure I got a good cut at 180g pressure and 90mm/s speed. No lifting and fairly easy weeding. thank you to all that responded.
  9. 1 point
    congrats on the new equipment!
  10. 1 point
    My sincere apologies if this has already been covered in this group. (I'm sure it has, but I couldn't find anything by searching.) I know what I'll be shipping my designs IN, but what does everyone put their vinyl designs ON, besides wax paper? (I'd like something a bit more professional looking than that.) I've found in my research that many use the backing from their vinyl, but I never have any left that is big enough. Is there a way to buy that kind of backing? Any insight would be much appreciated!
  11. 1 point
    Going to need a bit more info. What OS? What cutter? Has it worked in the past? If so what has changed? Have you tried different designs? Have you reinstalled drivers or software? Is the cutter actually on and plugged in?(don't laugh, it happens) Are you using a serial cable or USB? Have you tried different software?
  12. 1 point
    Hi there, Dante. If I may make a suggestion? You can design in Corel and EXPORT the file as .eps which should IMPORT just fine into SignBlazer, which is a cutting program which easily runs these Creation machines. http://www.uscuttersupport.com/downloads/Software/SignBlazer/signblazer_setup.exe Also, depending on the complexity of your work, it may just be easy enough to do the design right in SignBlazer and not even have to use Corel at all. I've been cutting for many years, and never needed a program as sophisticated as Illustrator or Corel (or even Inkscape). I have tried VinylMaster to a limited extent, and managed to learn it somewhat, but found that even VM exceeded my requirements for designing and I stayed with SignBlazer, with the simple cartoon-y interface that I've become accustomed to.
  13. 1 point
    Resolved: So when you migrate your data from one Macintosh to another, keep these things in mind: 1). The SCAL software will move with the system migration in-tact 2.) You will have to disable the SCAL software key on the old Mac and activate your software key on the new Mac in order to create anything 3.) You will need to go to Cutter menu > My Cutter > Manage Cutters and re-establish the cutter list configuration data (Brand/Model) even if they are still listed. 4.) Verify all other cutter settings such as connection type (USB/Printer)
  14. 1 point
    There are youtube videos showing how to do it with a regular iron.
  15. 1 point
    I love the unweeded idea! Although, it is interesting that someone would have a heat press, and not the means to but HTV
  16. 1 point
    Process of elimination. Try the cable(s) first. You don't want to just change settings and swap cables out without trying them one at a time. USB and serial cables can go bad, so can the keyspan. Did the OS update? Did the software update? What OS are you using? How are you currently connected from computer to cutter? Are you running it through a hub/splitter/switch? Besides turning the computer and cutter on and off, what else have you tried? Skeeter offered up info about a cable replacement, because she has years of experience, and when things like this happen, that's the first step she would try for troubleshooting. Heck, the would be the first step that most of us would try to troubleshoot.
  17. 1 point
    Thank you for all your responses I was able to visit my parents this winter break and got to work on it, SCAL works perfectly fine on M1 Mac's without having to do anything else, the drivers for the Laserpoint 2 work fine too no trouble, Just do note that the printer has to be on when to computer is turned on else the serial port won't open in the mac, restarting the computer after turning on the plotter works fine as well. I imagine that as long as drivers are able to be install any cutter that is supported in SCAl will work just fine. I wasn't able to get parallels working properly, idk why but driver just wouldn't install and I didn't understand port sharing. So in my experience at least is not possible with this cutter, though I'm pretty sure it was probably due to an error in my behalf. which is a shame since imo Vinylmaster cut is far more complete than SCAL at the same price point. Also the Sure cuts a lot bridge works too, as long as illustrator is running through rosetta. Tried inkscape and inkcut but it is not compatible with m1 macs just yet as a free alternative, gonna try running it through rosetta and update if it works, though I doubt it since the problem is not inkscape itself but python through homebrew and M1 macs. Again Thank you for your answers.
  18. 1 point
    what is the white stuff on the grit roller and down the front of the plotter inline with the grit roller? What program are you cutting with?
  19. 1 point
    Thank you for posting your work around. No doubt it will come in handy for future inquiries.
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    Got the answer. Blue is neutral and goes to the "N" lug on the connector, brown is line and goes to "L", green is ground and goes to "E".
  22. 1 point
    Genius!! The Condition Priority setting is what I needed. In case anyone else finds this in future.... If you want flexi or any other software to control the Cutting Condition you need to open do the following on the plotter. MENU > TOOL > CONDITION PRIORITY > PROGRAM. Thanks MZ!
  23. 1 point
    Here's to a fantastic 2022!
  24. 1 point
    wildgoose, Santa knew me well enough to realize I might shoot someone's eye out with it.
  25. 1 point
    Just to follow up on 3 different items, to hopefully help many others having some of these issues. 1) MzSkeeter is absolutely correct the USB Serial chip set in the SC2 is pretty bad. I installed one of my industrial converters and it never buzzed or lost position again. Since the entire file is sent to the cutter, I can only imagine it becomes corrupt or missing portions due to the bad transfer. I've been thru this before when our techs go to Walmart and buy converters then corrupt everything. 2) 4 items must be done. A) Do the initial laser pointer alignment when you power up the cutter and pressing the right arrow. This is a little hard because the jog mode moves pretty fast. Get it as close as you can. Then B. Spooler, Calibration, Do the Blade Offset C) the scaling, then do D) ARMS Offset. Yes, Arms Offset. It allows you to really zero in the laser with 4 points. 3) When you choose the contour wizard, you have 3 modes to choose from. Manual, Semi-Automatic, and ARMS. Choose semi-automatic. Once you do that, you can put in your material, jog to the square by the alignment mark and press origin. Then when you select cut, it will tell you to do the origin deal that you just did, press next. The cutter and laser will turn on and tell you to align with mark 1 using the keys on the cutter, then press enter. It will rapid over to mark 2, and repeat for all 4 marks. It will ask if you want to cut now, say yes. It will do a perfect contour cut. There are about 3 versions of instructions floating around. Use the link MZSkeeter provided. Pay close attention to Step 2 and Step 6 because it's different than what in the user manual. Here is two sources for using ARMS OFFSET calibration in VM4.3. Tony is a developer at future for VinylMaster. Subject: RE: VM 4.3 Software Arrow keys in Calibration dont work [#335478] Date: Tue, 7 Dec 2021 17:24:40 +1100 From: Tony Braun <tonybraun@iifutu******> To: 'Richard Skinner' Ok, your cutter does not support moving the cutter head using the software. It must be done using the arrow keys on the cutter. To calibrate, you use the ARMS calibration, NOT the laser calibration. Peter M. (USCutter) Dec 7, 2021, 14:54 PST There are three likely reasons that you can see a cut not match up with a print when contour cutting: 1. The blade offset hasn't been calibrated correctly. If you are using VinylMaster software you can go in the Calibration section of the Vinyl Spooler and click the "ARMS Offset" button. Edited - Inserted for brevity: --> Then Peter talks about blade offset and scaling to be calibrate as well