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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/10/2020 in Posts

  1. 4 points
    I created these signs for businesses remaining open during the crisis.
  2. 4 points
    Google (images) is your Friend.
  3. 3 points
    Don't bother vectorizing text, it just adds all kinds of unnecessary nodes, and sometimes does not cut (or plot) as cleanly.
  4. 3 points
    The cut version will run your cutter for general applications. There are probably some extra features that you'll have to live without and you'll stumble into those as you learn. The cut version is the budget limited version without a lot of bells and whistles so I suggest downloading a more robust design program to play with while you wait. Inkscape is free and a pretty solid vector program with all sorts of tutorials. You will likely want to be proficient in the design side of life as well as the rest.
  5. 3 points
    Well, the refurb Titan2 on the way from Seattle to Florida so it will be a while. Out the door price was 700.00 with shipping. Tried to squeeze out an upgrade on the Vinylmaster Cut too, but got shot down on that. Don't know if I even need it. So thanks to all for the suggestions, and extra nod to slice&dice for the link and discount idea. As soon as I screw up some vinyl, I'll be back for help!
  6. 3 points
  7. 3 points
    You say you vectorized the design? It's all text, it would turn out much cleaner if you simply retyped it all. That might also improve the path taken by the plotter.
  8. 3 points
    OK, since it sure seems like everyone is exhausted with the crisis already (and this shutdown is gonna be going on for WEEKS ahead), I figured this hat would be fun to wear !!
  9. 3 points
    "Considering preowned" -- Ok, then just order the Titan2 from USCUTTER as a refurb. https://www.uscutter.com/Refurbished-28-inch-TITAN-2-Vinyl-Cutter Yep, not new, returned to stock (return) or demo model, asking price is $895. Fifty dollars more than brand new. I kid you not. So, if you want to save a few bucks and get that refurbished machine, I would call tomorrow and speak to a manager at USCUTTER, patiently explain to him that you really, really can't imagine paying a HIGHER price for a unit that is pre-owned/damaged & repaired or used demo, and that you would, however, be interested in a $200 discount from NEW price (now $850) on a refurb, making it $650. Let us know what they say! Should be fascinating to see how that conversation goes!
  10. 3 points
    Also remember there's nothing wrong with a used cutter. I bought a used Summa D-60 in 2008 for way less than the $1000 you've got set aside for a cutter. I've been very happy with it so far. They are probably one of the best tracking cutters on the market. I had to replace the power supply and the cutting strip over the years., but that's it. I run Kleen Kut bladesand it jut keeps cutting. List price on a new Summa D-60 is $2290.00 Here's one if you're handy and can replace the X axis belt and live near Roanoke, Virginia. It's on eBay with a starting bid of $100.00 come with a computer as well. The media flanges that come with the cutter that are laying on top are one accessory that also aid in tracking of the vinyl. https://www.ebay.com/itm/184220275643?ViewItem=&item=184220275643 Found the belt for $91.84 https://www.digiprint-supplies.com/en/summacut-assy-y-belt-d60-399-631-pbesusu6014.html?category= As MZ Skeeter said Graphtec are excellent also. Another one to look into is Roland.
  11. 3 points
    If you have never ran a vinyl cutter before, then don't start with cutting a design. First you need to start with the TEST feature and set your vinyl cutter up. That is what the TEST feature is for. You have to set your blade depth, blade offset, and force first. Then type some text on your layout screen directly from the software and cut it. We don't know what kind of design you are cutting or whether it is even a vector design. Practice with typing text first and learn your cutter. This is the correct way to set your blade depth, which must be correct, before you set your other settings. Every cutter has to be fine tuned to cut correctly. This is correct way to set your blade depth. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should just barely see and feel your blade tip out of the blade holder.
  12. 3 points
    Just an update to the future googlers - you were correct, I needed to purchase an upgrade to the VM software. it was 50% off and a business account so bada-bing. Punch out is now available along with much more functionality. Made a couple adjustments - heres the final product. Thanks all - you can close the thread
  13. 3 points
    I was bored so.. Deleted everything but the green and text then just did 3 "outline" or whatever it would be called in your program. I used graphtec pro studio. I know, the "white" outline is yellow, that was so you could see it was there. mailbox.eps
  14. 3 points
    It looks to be Valencia Sans with a Stroke and Warp added.
  15. 3 points
    It greatly depends on the initial image. Most auto trace systems have a lot of stray/necessary nodes and to get a good clean cut a good bit of work can be required to clean up the file. The higher quality the initial image the better the trace will be. Images with multiple colors can result in some odd vectors. Either colors layered on top of each other, or they are sized exactly as seen which typically is not a good way to cut either. A simple example say a black square with a red circle in it. Some trace programs will give you a black square with a hole in it, and a red circle. There's nothing wrong with this, but for cutting and layering, it would be better to just have a black square with no hole, and then layer the red circle on top of it. Some programs would trace that same image as a red square, with a black square with a hole in it, layered on top of the red square. If you want to play around before buying anything, download Inkscape, it's free. Play around with it a little and you'll get a better understanding of vector graphics.
  16. 3 points
    Ok, so if you're cutting 6mil vinyl, ie 0.006" thick, and you have your blade set to 1/32, ie 0.03125", that is 5.2 times too much blade exposed. Not to be rude, and I run into this at work as well, if you ask a subject mater expert for help, don't ignore it when it is not the answer you were expecting.
  17. 2 points
    I agree. Having at least 2 programs available make thing a lot faster and easier at times.
  18. 2 points
    You might also look into Inkscape (it's free). I understand wanting to learn one software and use it for everything but I've found Inkscape more intuitive than I have with VM. That could also be that I learned Inkscape first, I don't know. But I know I could do this shape in Inkscape much faster than I could in VM.
  19. 2 points
    Yeah I didn't do that... Thank you, I appreciate it
  20. 2 points
    Not only does it depend on the cutter, making those cuts, it depends on the user setting the cutter up correctly. A vinyl cutter is not plug and play. Value cutters like the SC Liyu series take more time fine tuning, and to start with you must set the blade depth correctly. The cutter force, and blade offset depends on setting the blade depth correctly. Start with a slow speed until you learn your cutter. Do NOT follow any blade depth instructions about using a credit card to set the blade depth. This is correct way to set your blade depth. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should just barely see and feel your blade tip out of the blade holder.
  21. 2 points
    Keep in mind that the brand and type of vinyl you are cutting will also give you different results.
  22. 2 points
  23. 2 points
    You should be able to. I haven't found any Windows software that won't run on macs, I run Parallels on two of them (Yosemite/Windows7 & Mojave/Windows7), and Bootcamped a third mac (Yosemite/Windows7). That being said, I don't know what your setup(s) are, so it will all be trial and error. Bootcamp is a safe(r) testing ground, because if it doesn't work, you can always reclaim whatever HD space you sacrificed for it without having to reinstall OSX. Good luck, and please keep us posted.
  24. 2 points
    Layering wouldn't make it shrink more/faster but it might make it more obvious. The layers will pull on each other and cause distortions more so than a single layer.
  25. 2 points
    Technically any plotter can contour cut, the trick is getting everything lined up correctly. When you say you're not having any luck, what exactly is the problem you're having? So long as the design is not too large or complex the tracking on the MH should be good enough to do contour cutting, it'll just be a matter of getting things lined up right to start.