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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/29/2023 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    Yes found problem after decicded to change the head was encoder gave it a good clean all back and running again
  2. 2 points
    You would be amazed at how many businesses that I interact with, who do not have their own artwork for one reason or another. I often dread having to recreate someone else's logo because it seems like reinventing the wheel, but it's the same wheel without any improvements
  3. 2 points
    The other option would be to analyze the design and figure out a way to break it into smaller pieces. Add in some registration marks to get it all lined back up and you're good to go.
  4. 2 points
    Jimbo, you got a solution that was offered 15 years ago, which is a fine testament to the effectiveness of these Forums and its Search functionality. By the way, 'mobby' was one of the most-well-versed people regarding SignBlazer, as he was personally familiar with the developer (Jerry Bonham). All of that is water under the bridge, of course, but it's great to see people are still able to obtain "Help" on a program that's long since been abandoned in the marketplace.
  5. 2 points
    DXF files are not really cutter friendly. They look like a constant line, but they are actually several line segments and are typically not joined. VM can't do a contour, because it doesn't see a shape to contour cut around. You will need to join all the segments in order to create a shape. I might be as simple as joining the 3 areas circled below or you might need to join every single little line segment. Some software has the ability to automatically join line segments that are close enough, although this can give some funky results some times. I believe Inkscape has this ability. If you can get the file as an eps, ai, or svg rather than a dxf that would be the easiest way to go.
  6. 2 points
    Update! Since we're in Hawai'i, Graphtec recommended that we check with a local authorized repair shop rather than send the whole thing to continental US. We called up the recommended shop and after hearing of our issue asked, "when did you last replace the plunger?" They noted that those can stop working, preventing the blade from spinning/rotating. We ordered a new plunger from them and we're back in business! We finished out the 15mil synthetic job and are getting through the 10mil job as I write this. The old plunger has been marked and is still good enough for most of our paper jobs. I did let the boss know about the other blades you folks recommended. Thank you
  7. 2 points
    . Has this cutter ever cut correctly? Is it new or used? Your cutter is a value cutter with a cheap Chinese chipset on it,, will take a bit of fine tuning to cut correctly. Best to use with a Tripplite Keyspan Adapter and your null modem cable. Setting your blade depth correctly is the first thing you have to get correct, You do not use the depth of a credit card or post it notes. That is way too much blade exposed out of the blade holder. You set the blade depth to the vinyl you will be cutting.( Instructions below). For blade offset, start at 0.25mm and adjust at 0.05 to be correct. Show your test cuts from the TEST cut feature on the machine. That has to be correct first, before you cut anything. Square should be square. You could also ad a little overcut in your cutting software, but that is not going to fix what you have going on. You have to start with the correct blade depth first. this info has been posted on here hundreds and hundreds of times, it applies to any brand of vinyl cutter, except a Graphtec has a ZERO blade offset. Something that you will have to do if you haven't, if that cutter is on a stand, it needs grounded to the stand, or static from the vinyl, will stop the cutter. The tracking is not good on those cutters for larger designs. The memory is also not good for larger designs. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade tip out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade. When you think the blade is so far in the blade holder, that you think it would not even cut, that is probably correct.
  8. 2 points
    I'm assuming poll size tells the machine to measure the paper? You still have to remember there is going to be unusable space at the end of the paper that the rollers hold onto and the machine is not going to account for this because in the vinyl world you don't worry about how much vinyl is at the end, you are just going to cut it off and continue to use the roll. You are trying to use the machine as a plotter, which is not what it was designed for and thereby missing some of the abilities a true plotter would have. You seem to be getting pretty close to your goal, but as you've discovered it's just going to be a matter of trial and error to find the settings and conditions that work for you.
  9. 2 points
    I have never tried to draw on sheets or ever use sheets with my Graphtec. But have you calibrated the cutter to the cutting software? As in cut/draw a 3" x 3" square and make sure that it measures exactly at 3" x 3"? That adjustment is in Resolution. Mine is set at 1016 in/steps. I have a FC7000 and FC8000. but the same adjustment is made in Resolution in my cutting software.. I use Flexi software. And Graphtec Pro Studio, which is also Flexi software. So you are putting your cutter head exactly where you want it and you are pushing the ORIGIN button on the cutter? You must push the Origin button before sending a job. That Origin point is the measuring point for your design. Most people here are cutting vinyl on 15"-30" wide vinyl rolls. Only a couple hand fulls answer questions. Your cutter will not cut past the pinch rollers unless, you use expand or turn off the pinch roller sensor. I don't know of anyone on here, doing what you are trying to do.
  10. 1 point
    Their (sp.) website has THIS image --->
  11. 1 point
    Without knowing much about Roland machines, I can tell you that this error is related to some sensor within the circuitry that's failed. Think of it like a car that displays a CheckEngineLight --- it could be caused by any number of things within the sensor loops. Until you have the vehicle computer scanned to read the code which describes specifically what is wrong, you cannot troubleshoot. Your unit is throwing a 'code' that explains what is wrong. The internal computer has discovered that a pinchroller sensor isn't sending back a clear signal, and if I were in your shoes, that machine would be disassembled and the wiring from the pinchrollers to the motherboard checked for electrical continuity. That would be the first thing to investigate, certainly. By the way, a google search for CJ500 produces a Mahindra jeep, a classic!
  12. 1 point
    Thanks Riel. Due to it being Abandonware, along with the internal 'crack' that was applied (computer security gateway defenders will stop it from installing), it's not the most desirable program for people who are seeking to get into vinyl cutting these days. For the record, the download itself on that 'archive' website is located HERE --> https://archive.org/download/signblazer_setup7/signblazer_setup7.exe Oh, by the way, despite the goofy-looking interface, SignBlazerELEMENTS has a lot of great features, including text ARC; great node editing tools; welding and punch-through; drop-shadows and distortion effects; variety of Arrows; quick Kerning; text slant; easy borders; and much more. You are welcome to start a new topic on "Introductions" and tell us about your Rabbit, and what you produce with it, and any tips and tricks or business practices that can assist this community. You seem to be someone who wants to contribute, and that's always appreciated.
  13. 1 point
    Ok, did some test cuts, came out great but what just blew me away was cutting some glitter. I hated working with glitter, the Graphtec just laughed at me and cut it amazingly. Wish I got this thing sooner. I spent several hours last week weeding glitter. Had I only known. ha!
  14. 1 point
    Hate to say this, Kainth, but what you did there is not very useful, at all, from the standpoint of providing what was requested. .pdf? How is that even cuttable? He wants an SBD file, which I could make in two minutes, but I won't. In fact, I think this poster is just messing around with us, he was here with the exact same 'threepers' militia logo in 2020. For the record, Three Percenters have a track record of criminal activity ranging from weapons violations to terrorist plots and attacks. (according to the ADL, the Jewish Anti-Defamation League). He was given the exact information he needs to do his own cutting file. If he can't manage it, that's his problem, not ours.
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    I have not used your cutter, but most cutting software cuts as close to the origin as possible. IE if you put a small circle in the middle of your drawing, when you cut it, it will cut at the origin point you set on the cutter. If you want it to cut in the center you need to set your software to WYSIWYG (What You See Is What You Get)
  17. 1 point
    blade depth first, because you're getting scratches on the vinyl where there shouldn't be any. if you have dialed in the right blade depth, then make sure you vinyl isn't tenting, or if you have a 3rd pinch roller, use it. off set, to try and tighten up the corners.
  18. 1 point
    Hi Guys, I got a very cheap (and ancient) Roland ColorCAMM PC-60. I know that driver support and software is a problem. But I am fine using it through a Windows XP VM if required. I am actually more of a Mac user and the single Software that I found that listed the scanner in its compatible devices was SignCut Pro 2. Cutting vinyl works with it, but it doesn't have any design functions and I consider it rather expensive to just "drive a cutter". Right now I am not even looking intro printing with it but even options to get it to cut are limited. I have read that people "just use the software from the Roland website" to work with it. But I couldn't find anything besides firmware and drivers. The XP driver is probably the only useful thing from their website. Q1: Can you point me to that particular software or any other (old) software that I can use? The cutter understands two protocols: CAMM-GLIII and RD-RTL. I would assume that even if this particular cutter isn't listed, it would be to some extend compatible to other or even different manufacturer models. Q2: To what cutters would the PC-60 be considered compatible? I have tried e.g. EasyCut Pro and picked PNC. But that doesnt do anything... Also InkCut as a free alternative and picking PNC-900 doesn't do anything. Any help would be appreciated. I am new to the world of vinyl cutting :-)
  19. 1 point
    Sign Blazer Elements - totally free, and probably just as ancient, if not more so, than your Roland. It has design and cut abilities.
  20. 1 point
    Just Blatant Advertising....................
  21. 1 point
    I think I read somewhere that you should also wipe down the vinyl with rubbing alcohol before printing...
  22. 1 point
    I agree with SA 1000%. Never apply any wrap material wet. It will in time disolve the adhesive and fall badly. Get in doors out of the wind, wrap material is way easier to apply at a steady temp.. You will learn a feel for it. Stroke from the middle to the outside of your panels. When you get wrinkles pull it off and apply just enough heat to form it back, then reapply. Never tent or stretch it over a concaved area. Push the vinyl in. Try to not stretch the vinyl, only apply heat until it looks like glass then squeegee. If you have had to stretch any area make sure you post heat so the vinyl will lose memory. Justine Pate has great videos, or take one of the mmm courses. Good Luck, you will get there!
  23. 1 point
    If your using a wrapping cast, never wet install. period. If your "wrapping" with a regular sign vinyl then you might want to do it wet but I do not suggest this at all. It is all together wrong material for the job.
  24. 1 point
    ok so you are not talking about a wrap. you are applying large cut vinyl pieces. a WRAP is done by using printed vinyl on vinyl + laminate made just for doing a vinyl wrap. ex printed IJ180cv3 with 8518 overlaminate. not standard cut vinyl. if you wet install wrap vinyl you will never get out all the water from the micro air release channels. it will cause the wrap to fail!!!
  25. 1 point
    NEVER wrap wet. never never ever. Worst advice ever.