Leaderboard

Even though they are bottom of the barrel, they can be made to work well if you take the time to tune it and work out all the kinks. I've had one for about 15 years that has served me well as a hobbiest. Just have to know the limitations of the machine.

>>>Link to pinch roller assembly<<<

I cleaned up some old Koh-I-Noor Rapidographs, and these are by far the best results I've gotten so far. They're made for technical drawing, so that makes sense I placed them so the bottom of the colored rings of the handle were lined up with the top of the tool holder. All the Rapidograph tests were done at 10mm/s & 10g, using Yasutomo Sumi Ink. Here's the first 0.5mm tests I did: As a comparison, here's a test of the same file I did with the ultra-fine point Sharpie, after abusing it during lots of tests, and letting it dry out once (oops) - this may have been at a faster speed, though: Just to be fair, here's the same test with a new Sharpie, at 10mm/s & 10g - lots of bleeding compared to the Rapidograph: And finally, here's the 0.3mm tip with a 0.6mm hatching, which is super clean - this was the first test I used it on, so the beginning of the B was a little dry still: And thanks for all the advice regarding cutting! I'm going to try to mess around with cutting this paper using the carrier sheet this weekend.

Check your junk email. Value cutters do have roller marks. They come out of the vinyl when you apply the decal. You go messing with that pinch roller tension, you can create more problems.

A: it's not a printer B: It's advertised as not compatible with Mac. There are users on here that have gotten it to work using windows emulators but I don't believe anyone cuts directly from a max with the MH cutters. If you don't want to install a windows emulator, one thing you might try, use the serial connection. By using a serial connection there should be no need for a driver, just tell the software what comm port to use and the correct language, HP-GL.