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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/12/2020 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Has anybody purchased a daige laminator and what are your thoughts on it. Was thinking about buying one for my business that I'm starting up. Pros and Cons??
  2. 1 point
    a picture of the blade holder in the carriage would also be helpful as well.
  3. 1 point
    can you give us a clue on what plotter you are using - even when you phone a friend they need to know some details
  4. 1 point
  5. 1 point
    Have you registered the software? Unregistered software will usually put a slash across the design, although I think that is done after the cut is done, not the start. If the rest of the cut is cutting correctly, I would guess it's a software problem. Verify you have the correct cutter model selected in your program and have the correct drivers installed.
  6. 1 point
    Just want to rule out the obvious - the blade is moving up and down, right?
  7. 1 point
    funny you say that goose. I legit cut it to size so that it was easier to line up perfectly. lol welp your idea is a home run much rather do that then have markings. even if it takes a little longer to center. thank you on the compliments the foam hats are super comfortable and the prints are nice and bright! the pre-press your talking about I do but I never thought to try and move it and confine it after the small press. I feel like i need to get more platens this one leaves a big gap in the center so unfortunately i don't think it will work but I'm def going to try. & Dakota yes I think I saw something on paper but figured if teflon was no good to use don't cover it but now I'm little mad at myself for getting this on my platen. I have some ez off think it could work? I never had to use it before so not really sure how to tackle that.
  8. 1 point
    always, always use butcher paper or similar protective paper over the project. You are correct that the ink in gas form attached to your platen and causing that red ghosting. cheap roll of butcher paper (uncoated) from sams, costco etc last a LONG time and saves your press
  9. 1 point
    For the sublimation work I would make the print so that there was enough open area on each side and probably above the crown that the edges of the paper won't create a crease and the tape can be applied so it isn't even under the heat. Just a longer strip if that makes sense. It will waste a little sublimation paper but in that scenario that is what I would do. I never tried to sublimate a hat but other than the problem you are finding the sub job looks awesome. One thing I do on most of my hats is as soon as I put a pre-press to it for a few seconds I then lift the heat and work the hat to stretch it a little and make it conform to the platen a little better so it doesn't get the creases. I have never pressed on a foamy so they may not conform but most regular structured hats will.