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Take a look HERE -- http://forum.uscutter.com/index.php?/topic/39774-are-you-ready-for-some-clip-art-links-to-free-clip-art/&tab=comments#comment-304088 Also, in case you were asking about the TEMPLATES for vehicles (and not designs to put onto them) USCUTTER will sell you their DVD, https://www.uscutter.com/Art-Station-Vehicle-Templates-2019

Anything like that would be copyrighted. Not allowed to share them, They are copyright protected. We spend good money to have nice designs and have the license to use them. Sharing them would NOT give you a license to use them anyway.

The only other alternative besides a high bond adhesive would be to do a flame treatment. Sounds crazy but you can actually take a torch and (very carefully) wand it over the recycled plastic and then cover the whole area with a base color to build on. I have done this one time and it worked. Mine was on one of those folding A frame signs that was made from recycled plastic. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/240397917_Treatment_of_low_energy_surfaces_for_adhesive_bonding

Any low energy plastic will require a very high adhesive vinyl. When printing I used convex, not sure what plotter vinyl comes close to that.

Do YOU get to choose the substrate or was this the customers choice? Sounds like it's not vinyl friendly and a more appropriate sign material would be in order. I don't think the Coro-plast sheets have issues at all so they must be made from another type of plastic.

I know this is an older post but I just saw it. I do a lot of HTV and I would also recommend that you find a way to print this but should you ever decide to do multi-layered on a shirt it is best to layer the outlines and not stack the layers like sign vinyl. If you stack layers you with end up with a really thick and heavy feel. Most HTV can be layered but it just isn't a great way to go. The trick with layered outlines is designing with some overlap from each lower layer so you don't have the gaps that Dakota mentioned. HTV will do a lot of shrinking and distorting when you start to apply heat so the outlines method will help to keep your registration looking better. A good example of this method is a two color name or number. If you place the main (inside) color down first and then apply the outline layer afterword it will end up with crisp perfect width outlines where if you try to actually layer whole layers like you would a sign then the lower (outside) outlines will end up slightly off in at least one direction and the problem is compounded if there are a long string of text like a player name. Back to the outline method the thicker you can get away with on the outline the better to allow some misalignment between the press cycles because your lower (inside) layer will shrink a bit but it works really good. I do thousands of dollars worth of high school and club sports uniforms and its very lucrative. I design in Adobe Illustrator and it makes this method of design really easy. Any time you have an object with outlines adobe will extend the inside solid half the width of the outline when you convert from an object that has live outlines. Meaning that the outlines are added as a stroke and not as an offset line. I think for other programs you would have to experiment. I will attach a file with two versions of a number. One with just two stacked layers and one with the outline method so you can dissect them and see what I mean. 2 nines.eps

You posted in the MH section so I'm assuming that is the cutter you have. They are very prone to static, do you have the cutter stand/vinyl grounded?

I received my new mother board and got it up and running. Then started to get an error. Talked with tech on the phone for a hour troubleshooting it and finally got it all figured out. I ran a few things and it seems to work fine. Time will tell when it gets used more.