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I assuming you're taking the ball from the left and punching it through to get the results. You want the inverse of that so. Draw a circle slightly larger than the ball, then punch the ball through the new circle, then punch that image through the shield image.

blade depth, offset, overcut. also possible factors - design, size, speed. give us a little more info, we can help to narrow it down for you. even a picture of the area that is not completing the cut will be helpful.

Some peeps on here do use high tack paper tape and have no problems with it. I personally have used medium tack paper tape for years, with no problems. Try each. You can wet paper tape and remove easier.

Put a ticket in with Vinyl Master. They are your tech support. And be sure and tell them which version you are referring to.

I don't think stray nodes would cause the second copy to suddenly be turned 90deg and have all that gibberish. I lean toward the memory being overloaded or perhaps static. If you can cut one just fine but two is a problem than it's probably your machine limitations. To be sure your file is ok turn the view to outline and select the whole thing and see if you can see any weird parts light up (indicating a stray node) or hidden layer that doesn't have any fill colors assigned. You can also usually see each item in the layer stack over on the side and select each item by clicking the little round button in it's layer and see what lights up. This is a pretty basic design so there should not be too many items over there. If some of them are in groups tool them open and be sure there aren't hidden items stuck in a group. I think you will see them just from going into wire frame but sometimes not.

I was typing the same thing when Dakota beat me to it. There is some erroneous instructions that are floating around to use half a credit card depth. That's literally about 10 times too much. Even the cheap vinyl is usually only 3 mil thick which is very nearly the same as a human hair. Too much blade out causes a surprising amount of problems and is by far the number one set up error of new users. When set correctly and cutting though the vinyl with just enough force to scratch the liner lightly you should be able to see just a touch of light between the bottom of the blade holder and the vinyl if you get down at eye level while it is cutting. If after correctly getting dialed in there is a setting in your software called "Overcut" which will drag the knife a little farther past the end of the start point. Most cutters do not need overcut if set up correctly. IF you DO use it don't get too carried away, a little bit will do it. You are basically compensating for the castor action on the blade tip so your overcut in theory should not need to ever be more than the blade offset value you used to get good square corners.

Two words ---- "Stray Nodes"

*cough* *cough* It's logo that is copyrighted. I do not encourage you post copyrighted items, even pen plotted attempts at them, without explicit permission from the copyright holder. That being said, you should check out a website called Brands of the World.

If I were you, I'd install it dry. There are too many thin strips in that decal and the wet method could cause problems if the glass is wet. Use the hinge method by putting a strip of masking tape on the top edge. Tape it to the window by the masking tape on the top, making sure the decal is positioned where you want it. Lift the decal up from the bottom, start peeling the backing paper off of the top but don't take it all the way off. Fold the backing paper down to the bottom edge , holding the decal off of the window with one hand. Start squeegeeing the decal down from the top with the other hand. As you get closer to where the backing is folded, pull it down some more and squeegee more. Once you have the backing pulled down to a comfortable level you can pull it off the rest of the way and finish squeegieeing the decal.