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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/08/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    I would think if you’re designing directly inVM, then it’s vector by default. As far as a tablet goes, your computer should just think it’s another type of mouse/pointer device, so as long as it’s compatible with whatever version of Windows you’re running, it should work.
  2. 2 points
    My initial cost on the decals I need for my amazon business we’re going to be around $750-1000 a month. This DC4sx came by at $1250 and a rental truck and half a day to go get it. I’ve now picked up a few other jobs that have more than paid for it. The old shop I used to work at offered me their Old edge at $2k and it was a pro/con list for each. It came down to me having all 30” material in stock and not wanting to get special sprocket 15” for the Gerber (although I like the footprint a lot better and this 600# beast had to come down my stairs!)
  3. 2 points
    Repeat cutting over the same cutfile is usually because of the following reasons: The artwork has been duplicated i.e. there is a perfect copy of the artwork on top of itself. By using the Object Manager from the Design Center (right side of program) you can see all the objects. Also, select the artwork and press delete, if it remains then there was a duplicate and there maybe more than one. This can happen when artwork is selected and pressing the + key or Duplicate button from the toolbar. Passes in the Send to Cut module has been set to 2 or more. Some cutters have an option to Repeat cut. Removing duplicates, settings passes to 1 or setting Repeat cut off should resolve this issue.
  4. 2 points
    I’ve run a few jobs through it and have figured out how to design stuff and use the spot colors. It’s doing what I need it too but there is not a lot of info on the webs about it. And it’s freakin huge!
  5. 1 point
    Lol, I figured that out and reposted as a member
  6. 1 point
    I attempted to use a Wilcom tablet with Adobe Illustrator one year. It wasn't exactly cheap but it would work. I found, strangely, that I have no natural drawing ability so the whole thing was not going to work for me. Luckily I wrapped it back up and took it back and got my money back. One problem I had was it was not a drawing tablet that showed the design on the tablet so you had to watch the computer and draw over here with your hand. Not handy for me. It also made me try and learn a while bunch of new methods to draw in Illustrator which is already a two handed affair so it didn't work in that end. My niece has a little tiny 5" pad that she uses with her mac. It is probably too small to utilize but it was at least inexpensive.
  7. 1 point
    Hint Brett, if you sign up as a member you will not have to wait for a moderator to approve your post - no cost or obligation - just one of the way we control spammers as that had gotten out of hand a while back
  8. 1 point
    Explain the problem you are having with the pen tool. What model of cutter did you get and what software are you using with it? Some use a felt tip pen others use a ball point. Typically the down force is adjusted to put the correct force so it writes but doesn't smash the tip. The offset will go to zero because pens are centered without the castor action of a drag knife blade. All good practice things to learn how to do and congratulations on entering the fray and also on taking a little time to learn your machine before you break a tip or worse by trying to cut without knowing your machine.
  9. 1 point
    This can be caused by a scale mismatch. In other words the units per inch or per mm, set in the cutter are different to the units set in the Software. Small Scale Errors (10% or less) For small scaling errors, use the Cutter Scale (utility) in the Vinyl Spooler under the Calibration tab that will assist you to set the correct scale. Large Scale Errors (10% or more) Large scaling errors can be corrected in the Vinyl Spooler. You can open the Vinyl Spooler from the File (menu) > Cut/Plot > Vinyl Spooler. When you have the Vinyl Spooler open (press F2) or click the Cutter (menu) > Configure Cutter. In the window that comes up, select Units (on the left side), and then adjust the Device Units per mm. The industry default is 40.0 units per mm. If you have a cutter that works in 1000 units per inch then set the Device's units per mm to 39.37 and try a test cut. Half Scale Errors (cutting at around 50% or half size) For scaling errors where the cutfile cuts at around half of the design size, this can be corrected in the Vinyl Spooler. You can open the Vinyl Spooler from the File (menu) > Cut/Plot > Vinyl Spooler. When you have the Vinyl Spooler open (press F2) or click the Cutter (menu) > Configure Cutter. In the window that comes up, select Units (on the left side), and then adjust the Device Units per mm. Set this to 100.0 units per mm and try a test cut. Trial by Error You can experiment with a 1 inch or 25mm square and adjust the units accordingly. For example if the cutter cuts a 1 inch or 25mm square at 0.5 inch or 12.5mm then (half size) then set the Units to 80 units per mm. If it cuts double the size at 2 inches or 50mm, then set the units to 20 units per mm and so on.
  10. 1 point
    I have mulled over the Summa thermals for several years especially since I already run a Summa cutter and am familiar with the quality of their machines. I still may go that route one of these days. I hear from what I have read that they made some changes in the DC5 models that helped eliminate banding issues that sometimes happened in the older models. If you are doing multiple small decal type work I bet there are far less worries with that issue regardless of the model. I never quite got up the nerve to pull the trigger. I DID however pull the trigger on an old Gerber Edge printer and Envision plotter from Jburns here on the forum. I was out in his neck of the woods last year picking up a walking foot sewing machine that he was good enough to collect at an auction and hold for me until I could make the trip. Very similar concept to the DC it is thermal and uses Gerber take on the foils. I am still messing around with it and learning but it's pretty fun. I like that it can just sit there when I have nothing to print without worrying about print head clogs and ink. If the Summa is anything like the Gerber you definitely get a lot better color and brightness when working with spot colors than with process colors. The Gerber likes to use their software which I don't have but I have managed to get good workflow using Flexi. The long term decision on how that all shakes out is yet to be determined and am renting the use for now while I explore the whole process. I may just build in the cost to the work and shut it off in dead months or something. The only thing that ever bothered me about the DC is that the material width is evidently not negotiable or better put has just a few optional widths not infinite widths like the plotters have. You either print on 20" 24" or 30" on the DC5sx 30" machine. I'm sure there is a reason somewhere in there why you can't even go down to 15" material but that was a big debbie downer for me. The plotter part is basically the same drag knife that I run but without the ability to just use it as a plotter on it's own. At least on anything other than 24" or 30" material, Not even sure that the control center lets it just run as a plotter. I have never gotten the change to get close enough to play with one. Pretty much a purpose built machine. Good at what it does but sort of narrow in it's realm.
  11. 1 point
    You need the software to be installed and it is automated. Note: FireFox does not work with this form. Use Edge or Chrome.
  12. 1 point
    The link works, however, you need to type in a Product Serial Number.
  13. 1 point
    RBE, congratulations on getting into the game. Give us something better to work with, OK? How about a video? How about letting us know what you have (equipment/Software)?