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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/06/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
  2. 2 points
    I switched my dedicated computer a while back to a HP Elite 8300 USFF and 8200 USFF (one is my shipping computer and backup to the cutting computer) ultra small form factor computer and put a solid state drive in it - very very low power usage, cost effective solution as mine is left on about 9 months out of the year. like a laptop in power usage but has more airflow and is silent. cutting computer is never online and no anti virus needed so it is faster and not likely to get corrupted from a download
  3. 2 points
    That is way incorrect, and about 10 times too much blade exposed. This is posted on the forum to help. Guess you didn't read it.
  4. 1 point
    IMO go the SignCut route. ESPECIALLY if you are already an AI user. They have a plug-in and work great on the mac. Best part is they ALSO work on a pc so you can migrate between them if you need to. If you pay monthly you have 5 moves before they make you check in but if you buy the lifetime dongle you can load SignCut on all your computers and your neighbors your mother-in laws and cut from any one of them with the dongle. I am an AI guy and use the dongle on the original SignCut Pro1.
  5. 1 point
    A printer prints raster files. A vinyl cutter cuts vector files. A vinyl cutter is not a printer.
  6. 1 point
    Capone GG also fits, but commercial.
  7. 1 point
  8. 1 point
    In Signblazer it would be, arrange-weld-punch through. Just make sure you use two colors.
  9. 1 point
    Should be able to just make a tall skinny rectangle and subtract it from the letters. Or whatever it is called in your software. In studio pro (flexi) it is cutout. In corel draw it is shaping-front minus back. VM? not a clue, never used it.
  10. 1 point
    Most people cutting as a business use a dedicated computer for their business, Cut and design only on the computer. I have XP backup computers. You can still pickup XP computers online. Or even Windows 7. Just saying you don't need a new fancy computer to run a vinyl cutter.
  11. 1 point
    You state your new to the business, Did you know that designs can be broken down and cut, even on a 24"? You don't state what sizes of cutters that you have. I have a 30" Graphtec and I would never want a larger size than 30" Too hard to mask, and requires a wider table to work on. I just use a 30" w x 8 ft long table and it works fine for all of my needs.
  12. 1 point
    My cutter is a 2008 model. I have never updated the firmware. It works great as it is. No reason to even update your cutter. You can get many great years out of it. Just get an updated software. I still run my cutter on XP. Most stable Windows there is. You don't need a fancy computer with higher Windows. A lot of us stay back on Windows XP. Can pick up cheap.
  13. 1 point
    if the oldest you can download is 3.9 and you're running 1.3, your firmware\hardware maybe too old to go straight to 3.9. Is there a revision history for the update that tells you what new abilities the firmware offers? Firmware won't have any effect on the software's ability to run on your PC.
  14. 1 point
    The web site has win10 listed as supported for CM2
  15. 1 point
    Heat transfer will trick you too. It's carrier is really tough and hardly ever possible to cut through so you get all set or so you think then switch over to adhesive vinyl and wham. Start on adhesive vinyl, follow the instructions on the blade depth, it makes so much difference yet no one believes it for some reason. Once you get set for adhesive the heat transfer is basically the same I rarely need to adjust if cutting Siser. Some other brands are thicker and require more blade and a touch more down force but not much. A good quality blade like the Clean Cut blades are very helpful. They are much harder steel and are able to be sharpened well beyond the cheap ones and if you don't abuse them by cutting though the backing they will last 6 months or a year. I usually change them out after about 6-8 months and save the old ones for things I know will be hard on blades like glitter HTV.
  16. 1 point
    lol - great minds think alike on using a refine after having a graphtec that would be about as much fun as putting your hand on a vice and whacking your hand with a hammer :/
  17. 1 point
    Using a Clean Cut blade, or a new blade couldn't hurt either. I would also encourage you to check for any debris in the blade holder, and check the condition of the cutting strip. The cutting strip should be fairly self-healing, but if you cut into it, honestly, it's never the same. When I start to get a perforated effect on my cuts, I know it's time to look at the blade, blade holder, and cutting strip. Good luck, and please keep us updated.
  18. 1 point
    Also make sure you are not in wire frame mode.
  19. 0 points
    Only cuts rough on tiny objects. I used the credit card suggestion. Where you set the depth of the blade to about half the thickness of the credit card. Worked fine so far, but some 2ft wide with fantastic results. Bunch of 12" wide heat transfer sheets. But a buddy wants to run some 2"x2" logos and I know darn well its hit or miss for me. Best test file: trying to cut a troll face in a 2" x 2" area