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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/19/2019 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    In my experience, if the cuts are too deep into the backing paper, the vinyl decals get 'stuck' (sorta fused onto the backing layer). However, you say this is not happening, so there's something else going on here.
  2. 2 points
    a free version that is very close is OPTIDiannaScriptBoldAgency (Bold *Oblique)
  3. 2 points
    Now with all that said I believe it is a white over purple Carla Pro (Regular *Oblique)
  4. 2 points
    I have read the recommendation to leave the plotter with the pressure rollers up - 99 percent of the time for the past 10-11 years mine has been left down and vinyl loaded. I don't follow some directions well I guess
  5. 2 points
    That's an interesting question. When I had my P-Cut budget cutter it said to never leave the rollers up. When I got my High end cutter it said to never leave the rollers down. LOL. I just do what the cutter manual says. The reason the cheap cutter said to always lower them was to keep from compressing the springs for long periods and weakening them. The reason the high end machine says leave them up is because it will create flat spots on the pinch rollers and lead to tracking inaccuracy. Maybe the higher end machine has better quality springs, I have never had to replace the pinch rollers and I've now had this thing for 6 years. I try to keep my vinyl inside a plastic liner so I tend to remove it and store it. If it's some HTV that I am using pretty often I may leave it on the machine but not under the rollers. Each to his own.
  6. 1 point
    Hey guys so my hotronix hat press came in and I was extremely happy up until I pressed my first hat. It was a foam hat and I did exactly what I was reading. (This was for sublimation) I placed my print lined it up and threw heat tape on it with no Teflon (which another bad idea) I don’t know why they tell you not to use it but some ink got on my heat platen and you’ll see it on my white hat below. Craft paper should probably have been used. but anyway so now the press completes and it has markings from the heat tape and a box around the print from the paper. I figured I needed more of a firm base so I didn’t get bent out of shape I ordered Teflon pillows and still getting creases in the hats I tried different pressures but did stay around the area pressure you should be at when applying subs and or vinyl. If anyone has any feedback I’d appreciate the help. I will attach some photos and maybe just let me know what you think. The red hat creased in the middle and the gray and white foam hats I’m sure you’ll see the marks. (Gray hat done with no pillow) everything else had the pillow. I looked for a firm heat safe foam but can’t seem to find anything safe for heat up to 400 degrees. One hat came out perfect and I think cause it’s a different style hat.
  7. 1 point
    Oracal 651 is known to be a little problematic from time to time in this one regard. It seems to have a good hold on the carrier. The upside is that that hold is also what helps it weed good for a calendared vinyl. The best cure I have found is just before install run it over a sharp edged table app tape side down so that the sharp angle on the table or bench will help break the vinyl loose from the carrier. Then lay the vinyl face down on the app tape side and peel the backing up and away from the vinyl. I have best luck if I can get a slight roll action going on the carrier sheet and it will sort of snap or pop up off the vinyl. Not all rolls of 651 fight as bad as some others. 751 and 951 do not have this issue. I also like to use R-Tape 4076RLA. It is slightly higher tack than 4075.
  8. 1 point
    Could be the tape is old, could be the cutter cut the vinyl, but didn't really cut the adhesive under the vinyl, could be you didn't squeegee it good, etc. have you tried to peel the backing away (vs. peeling the tape up to release it)? you can also try squeegeeing the back of the paper too.
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point
    Yeah - I would normally not start out with equipment this nice, but with the encouragement from here, I feel better to have gone this route. I am sure I will miss out on some good lessons, but, hey, I'm getting old. Or, at least, feeling old. The FC8600 was actually on my radar for a second. Network-able, I believe. I wondered about it and came across some used ones, but I already demolished the budget going to the 6000 and the 6000 is new.
  11. 1 point
    Thanks! I feel an addiction coming on. (Good kind).
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    I always leave mine without pressure on grit roller. on every 1. my new 1 was shipped that way, I was told that's the best way, last I read on here to leave them up.
  14. 1 point
    Cool thanks mfatty500 for the help and tip
  15. 1 point
    Yeah neither of the pics are clear enough to get Find My Font to tell whats on there. The GP-17 looks like maybe Poster Bodini italic or similar. The other is anyones guess. You need a straight on pic in higher resolution to be able to let the program work well. Script fonts are more trouble because you need to be able to see where the letters meet and cut them apart so it can look for individual letters. Maybe get hold of the actually owners of that thing and see if they have something you can use for your replica.
  16. 1 point
    Just wanted to say thanks again. Although I don't know how well a Silhouette works, this Graphtec is very solid! Amazing triangle and square (so far) :-) I'm sure I will have more questions in new threads, but wanted to complete this thread.
  17. 1 point
    more room just means more junk!!! well does for me. I started doing vinyl at my wifes consignment store, something for me to b interested n for free labor working the store all day. we have a back office I started setting up as the vinyl room and a bay I lettered a few vehicles, but being here alone 80% I moved the cutter up front behind the counter with me, and now the office and back room has so much of customers crap back there I couldn't letter a bicycle back there.i moved the big cutter home in the spare room upstairs. and a 24" cutter in its place at the shop. Hmmmm! I guess I could now use both rooms upstairs since the step daughter moved out . wonder what the wife will think about taking out the daughters bedroom furn and moving n screen printing equipment.... lol. im sure we all kno the answer I will get to that 1.
  18. 1 point
    welcome aboard. seems ive already posted on a different thread of yours or something. Im always late to the game . lol. we def need more jeepers. that's my other biz, used to just build crawlers, but when I jumped n to it full time I will build whatever they pay to. serious mall crawlers. spare room or not, looks like you have a nice set up
  19. 1 point
    Tahoma Bold and Interstate Mono are both close. The shape is pretty common, the base which is longer on the left than the right is not. You could find a match for the upper part and add a base, or chop off part of the base on Tahoma or Interstate
  20. 1 point
    I'm going to go with CNC router. Below the two birds is scroll work that meets the bottom rail. I see bit radius results there. Looks like an end mill bit for the field with a large pocket operation. At least, that's how I would do it. A V-Carve bit as a profile around letters, then. Could have even then used a laser for the darker accents, but I would have just stained it.
  21. 1 point
    Is the carriage head tight on the machine?
  22. 1 point
    PS if yours doesn't come off clean first order of business is to remove all young children from the area so they don't learn new words
  23. 1 point
    White is my nemesis. No matter what brand I try it takes more pressure and just doesn't leave as nice a cut as the other colors. I've noticed I can cut a 24" x 60" red or black 3M reflective in two passes and it's a nice clean edge. Cut the same design in white reflective and there is so much drag that the 1st and 2nd cut don't always line up...frustrating. As for the Greenstar, I bought a bunch with my cutter for practice. Didn't care how much I wasted or gave away at the price. It was a great learning experience, because once I got good at cutting and weeding it I switched to 651 and it was night and day different. The 651 cuts, weeds and lays so much nicer! Can't imagine how much time and headache I would have saved myself if I'd just started with 651 and a CleanCut blade....but think of all the lessons I wouldn't have learned.
  24. 1 point
    LOL... that's exactly why I got it, it was cheap on clearance when I got the cutter. Any idea what size the cut would be with the test feature? I was a little leery to use it because the piece of vinyl I was using was only about 12x12 and I didn't want it to go wild and off the vinyl. We have an HP plotter at work and the test feature on it prints out a 6-foot tall full color picture. Nothing like having a test feature like that smoke your ink cartridges right out of the gate. Other than what looks like deeper marks on the HTV, all the cuts I've done have been nice (no offset issues, ect.) and weeded just fine.
  25. 1 point
    I would get some good vinyl. Oracal 651 etc. and set your blade to that. Greenstar, more like practice vinyl. You have a TEST feature on your vinyl cutter, use it when you change vinyls. You can see how it cuts with each vinyl. I would back off the force a tad for the Heat press vinyl right now, until you get better vinyl.