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Customer's attitude often dictates prices for me - that includes their attitude that my time is not as important as theirs. If they're a problematic customer just trying to set up an initial meet, I can only imagine what kind of customer they will be when it comes to picking-up the job and actually paying for it. I am not the only game in town, and it they do not like my prices, or my business hours - they can find someone else who will be more inclined to get their time wasted. I know, it's kind of a harsh way of looking at it, but a) I'm a hobbyist, that is willing to take the 'one-off' jobs what some shops won't; and b) I have yet to meet a job that pays so well, that I'm willing to accept the aggravation that goes along with any lack of respect for what I do, and my time to do it.

OP mentioned that they were using VM, but didn't say which version. I gave them the steps to do so when I tested what they were trying to do in my VM DSR. Hopefully they will give it a go, and learn the process of doing it.

I have been using Main Tape, medium tack for many years, now. I never have complaints. I ship everything. MAIN Tape Is now owned by NEKOOSA. I purchase my Main Tape from a distributor out of Michigan.

I run into the issue sometimes as well. When I do, it's usually because it's time for me to age out my vinyl and/or application tape - which means, buy new vinyl and/or app tape. It happens, and it probably happens to me more often than it does to others on the forum who do this for a living. I'm a hobbyist and 'word of mouth' business, this is not my "day job" so I do not go through vinyl as quickly as others. When I run into this issue, it's usually because my vinyl is old and/or the app tape is old.

I think of two common errors. 1. Fully prepare the surface. An final alcohol wipe after a thorough cleaning is always a good idea to make sure there are no finger prints or other residue. Rubbing alcohol works fine. 2. Pulling the tape off properly. Start on one corner and pull up a little bit, fold it flat against itself so the non-sticky sides are touching and using the tackiness as traction for your fingers slide the folded over portion across or down. This will put the force of removal at a nearly flat angle to the vinyl so you're not lifting the installed vinyl up as bad.

Ya i hear ya. I have roland tech coming out to change the head. I just bought the machine used got a good deal on it and figured i we ould have to change a head sooner or later. Ive cutting vinyl for 13 years now with my OLIOLINE 100 which is a beast. But coming into a printer cutter is a whole new learning curve. Im getting there. I figured id have him come out the first time to do the head so i can see what it entitles and definitely the next time i will do it on my own for sure. I knew the black must have been gone but i just wanted to make sure before i drop money. So after this black head is installed the fuzzy hairy look thats around fonts and logos should be gone ?

yes it does have cut by color, but you don't just select it. You select all of the design. Then you choose a tab at the top, and then choose a color to cut. They also haven't put registration marks. Until he zooms the page down, He can't get around the whole design and do anything. Colors are selected after you go to production manager.

*EDIT: Never mind, just noticed that plastisol was already mentioned in this thread. Man I really need to read closer. ha! There was a discussion a few weeks ago that brought up plastisol transfers. Perhaps that would work for your needs, although it sounded like you needed a decent size shirt order to make it cost effective.

I started off as a hobbyist, and still consider myself a hobbyist. 10+ years ago I started off with an original LaserPoint (LP). Even as a hobbyist, I had word of mouth jobs and got that machine paid in a very short amount of time. Last year I picked up a Graphtec CE6000-60 Plus, haven't regretted it. It will take me a little longer to get this machine to pay for itself, but I know it will. The Graphtec is so much better, it actually makes me wish I bought it a lot sooner - it would have made some of my jobs a lot easier to get done. BTW - Nothing is wrong with my LP, just thought it was time to get a "back-up" machine since the LP is very well taken care of, but also getting old. Now the LP is my back-up machine Like Slice recommends - go directly to Graphtec. (Do not pass Go, do not collect $200, just head straight for the right machine the first time out)

Is there another question here? That post was from 2014.

For that kind of price, the equipment would be out of the boxes and running. It doesn't take long to set up a Graphtec, and download the driver for it. You could even have that done on your own laptop and take it with you. The software and driver is available 24-7 on the Graphtec site or most any other software already has Graphtec listed in it.

Go directly to Graphtec? Hmmmmmmm....

Vinyl Master 4 has an outline tool that will easily do exactly what you want.

I must tell you, the thing you are seeking to accomplish is called "OFFSET" (where the black outline is separated slightly from the numbers). The alternative FREE/abandonware program SignBlazer handles this type of operation easily and effectively. (MANIPULATE menu)

It has been discussed here many times that SignBlazer will NOT import .eps files created with newer versions of Illustrator later than v.8 and what you are describing is exactly that -- you are creating a more recent version of .eps (from an updated Inkscape) that is not recognized by SBE. By the way, a PVW file is only for SBE to deal with internally. It cannot be opened by SBE, and is just used by the program when showing previews within the 'OPEN' dialogue window.

What the hobby cutters can't do is load a roll of vinyl. That for me is a face palm. Rolls are cheaper per foot. The are far easier to manage. I can understand wanting to test the waters. But it is a poor test wadding in the kiddie pool. You just get your ankles wet. If you truly want to start small, at least make a 24" your initial jump point. Then you can load a roll. But, if you are just really doing this as a hobby, making small items, scrap book cuts, ect., maybe it is ok. If you want to make things in inches thats fine, if you are thinking in feet, get one that can do feet of material. It is not so much the width of the roll, but that it is a cutter that can take a roll can cut 2-4 in lenght times its width. So for a 24" cutter that is 4-8 feet, (maybe better if it tracks well.) A hobby cutter can only go the length of the sheet.

Up while off, that's interesting. So to the OP, assuming yours should work the same as cardudenc's then I would say you have a weak spring, or the spring has become disconnected inside the carriage. It appears you have two screws holding the plastic cover on the carriage, You should be able to take the cover off and get a good look at what is going on inside and be able to tell if you have a spring problem or not. Note, when you take the cover off, the cutting head will not likely hit the red button and will continue to try and drive to the right, so if you turn the cutter on with the cover removed, put your finger over the red button and hit it before the cutter head moves too far right.