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Shot in the dark her, but, uscutter?

Any time I've shopped around I have yet to find a place that can beat the prices with shipping that USCutter offers for Siser and Oracal vinyls.

lol might be worth signing back on there to watch

You are on the USCUTTER forum. Most all here, especially us old timers that have been here for years, buy here. If you want, a variety of answers, about different vendors, then go to a forum that is not sponsored by a website that sells the products that you need. Drop over to signs 101, they don't sell products.

I buy from UScutter. They have 2 warehouses, Memphis and Washington State. Check out their selection and their shipping costs. Fast shipping. I don't know what you call pricey. You want quality products, your name and reputation is as stake. You want repeat buyers, Not buyers who say your vinyl is cheap and falling off already. You want vinyl you can cut and weed easily. Takes less time to make your products. Time is money. The largest price on your products is time and skill. https://www.uscutter.com/

Don't forget to figure in the time it took for the layout or design, converting the logo from a JPG to a vector image or the numerous times the customer called to change the design. I live in Florida and pretty much use Oracle 951 for everything.

They are fun from what I have seen.

So try for the late reply, I did try what you all recommend and it seemed to help much better. I don't know how they wash or dry them but I haven't gotten any reply back that they have peeled, Thank you for all of your advice.

I think you should keep that as a great memory of your sis. Sorry for your loss. I have lost a couple siblings and it is definitely a hole in your life and heart that hurts.

Very sorry for your loss. That is very pretty..

My illustrator gives me options, when I go to SAVE AS in illustrator.

I think Dakota fat fingered the 751 but I totally agree with him. I don't sell 651 to people for vehicles. It's great vinyl but not built to handle the expansion and contraction. If you are just selling decals and not installing and you know your material costs all that's left is your operational cost including taxes and profit. Only you can decide how much your time and wear and tear on your equipment is worth. If you install there are more considerations but just break them down. Travel, Install time, Remove mess up, travel back , recut, reinstall etc...

MM, metric.

Sometimes the simplified look is more pleasing to the eye.

Totally agree with Dakota. The cheaper presses are fine to get started and in conjunction with a cutter and some HTV (Heat Transfer Vinyl) you can almost instantly begin to generate a return on your investment. I used a swinger press for 2.5 years and then made the leap to a Fusion. That is pretty much the top level for a home office setup. The leap was expensive and I was worried about it at the time. I also bought a couple extra platens that were recommended by other users and were WELL with the extra expense. Funny thing is when I got it I was attempting to sublimate some shirts and was scorching them. I checked the temperature and it was over 40deg off too hot. So even a 2K press can be off. The Chinese press I had was so far off it didn't even make sense and I never figured out if there was a way to adjust the thing so I just wrote down what heat was what on a post it note and taped it to the side of the control box as a reference. There was a cool spot on one corner of the press that I avoided as well. It got the job done but the constant daily use wore out most of the connection and pivot point within that 2 year stint. The Geo Knight, Hotronix and Hix products are built works above.

chinese Presses are not generally even temp and even the high end heat presses should be checked with an ir thermometer to make sure temps are on - the trade off is you will pay a lot more for the better heat presses like the hotronix and knight that have a lot more coils in the platen for even heat - if you want even get a hotronix fusion or knight - at $1600-2400 they are much more accurate temps and personally I use a hotronix

yup, we are now in the age of the short attention spanned, glance 'n go, generation. people now days are less inclined to slow down and appreciate the finer details of things

Well atleast im not alone! Surprised the toshiba TB0660xxx chips are in these. Every CNC noob makes the mistake of using em. Myself included. Still beyond puzzled. Powered up fine. Add usb while its off..boom. Ill test the psu tomorrow. Man i was looking forward to finally using it too.

Personally when I called I would insist on a new main board and power supply, maybe a power problem and the installed a new board when “ refurbed”. And it did that before.

Apparently it was De-furbished.

my first plotter was a p-cut 12 (?) years ago - plugged it in and during one of the first cuts (I worked afternoons and got around to this at about 2am) a capacitor had been installed backwards on the power supply and blew. sounded like a shotgun going off in the basement causing heart palpitations. after installing a new power supply and finding out it also took out the mainboard and after that finding out it had taken out the controls - I paid to mail it back for replacement - been smooth sailing on all the cutters after that. so yeah I have heard of something like that - really sux to go thru it but with the thousands they sell it happens.

Sorry man I was out of town all weekend. I do jerseys all the time. Biggest problem with jerseys is getting a good press. They have all sorts of thick sewn seams and such that can hold the press up off the actual place you need the pressure. I have several sizes of press pillows that allow the pressure to be correct. 305 is recommended and 15 seconds is plenty I think they recommend 12-15 but I go 15 because I have an upper platen cover which I think needs the full count to be sure I get all the way to temperature. I have a leg platen for my Fusion which will usually let me slide the shoulders on for football style jerseys but before I bought my fandancy press I used a 6"x 16" press pillow across there or just a full sized 15" pillow sometimes depending on the size of the garments. I have different platen sizes with my press and STILL find times I need to use one of my pillows so if you don't have one buy one (or more). Definitely pre-press to remove moisture as noted and if there are other elements on the shirt like numbers or something that will be touched by the platen then use a cover sheet. I like to use parchment paper (like for baking cookies). It will withstand hundreds of press cycles and nothing sticks to it and you can buy it at walmart. Having an upper platen cover is really nice because you don't have to worry about that kind of thing. I didn't run one until I accidentally bought one thinking it was a replacement for my lower platen. Now that I have it I wish I had ran it long ago.

Let goose chime in here. I think your temp was a bit low and time was minimal. IMO correct temp and maximum or longer press time would work better than minimums. And ya, pressure has to be there. Also, how close the seams where the names? They will prevent the correct pressure needed.

Sawgrass SG400 Dye-Sub Printer & 5-in-1 Heat Press Dye Sublimation Kit, Really looking hard at this one.. The more I look at dye-sub, the more interested I'm becoming. I had previously done some research on photo-printing onto metal, and had to walk away when I got to the expenses, but since I'm wandering THIS close, I'm seriously considering taking that plunge at the same time. My finances aren't unlimited though.. so I'm looking at this aspect from a hobby level for the moment. I'm toying with the concept of just letting go of all my savings, and getting into an approximately $3000 set-up to start with: the mid-to high level cutter (Titan 28" version 2 or 16" version 3), the above-mentioned kit, with a lower-end press with plug-ins, and what really appears to be a decent and acceptable dye-sub printer, and basic software (assuming the OEM VM version will upgrade like the normal versions of VM do, still want to call them first). Then see what sort of advertising packages, signage, shirts, and suchlike, that I can tailor for clients from these items, and the stainless cutting. Keep going with my artwork, try and get a feel for where my personal interests best overlap the clientele interests, and then refocus and upgrade accordingly, over time. Oh.. and pray like crazy that my car transmission will last another year or so! Both perspectives are completely true. The less detail, the more iconic a design can become, AND the more rapidly digested by the ADHD culture we're in.. I just wish my own art interests fell in line with that a little better. I'm the guy who designs art that I suddenly find I have to break into 4 pieces before the 1.5 million dollar laser is overwhelmed with the amount of detail involved. Now, ok, granted, that example is excessive, and not representative of the norm... I was doing a dragonfly for my little sister, and she had a lot of input regarding how she doesn't like this or that aspect of everyone else capturing the dragonfly in art. She wanted this and that represented faithfully. I went ahead and manually traced a dragonfly, and a set of dragonfly wings, complete with every webbed-opening in there, over a period of several months. The laser had a fit, so I had to do each wing separately, and then stud and bolt them together. She had breast cancer, but was in remission for a year before it came back in the form of a brain tumor, went away for another year and came back again. I went over to the house to see her, a year to the week that she'd had that brain surgery. I saw she was starting to get somewhat disoriented easily, and so I was doing the final push on getting the dragonfly done, so that she'd know what she was looking at before it claimed her mind, and/or put her back into a hospital bed where I couldn't give it to her. . I worked on it all through the day and night that weekend, and sacrificed some of the body details to get it done quicker.. She never got to see it.. I was running the programs for it, an hour at a time, a wing a day. I was literally about to run the final wing through the laser on Wednesday (with the bosses permission, a second wing for that day) when I got a text message from mom, saying she'd died in her arms at the hospital about 3 hours prior. We knew she was terminal but we thought there was at least a year left. I rushed to my parents house with the partially completed dragonfly, a day late and a dollar short. ah crap.. sorry, didn't realize I was going to unload. but.. while I'm "here" here's a picture of that dragonfly, and it's 4-foot wingspan. true to form, it impressed folks, and I've been offered money for it several times from friends of my parents who have seen it, to the tune of $400, which is about half of what it would have cost me just for running the laser that long, if my boss hadn't decided to let me do it for free. Material costs, time, and well, emotional baggage would have pushed the price much higher than any market was going to bear.

Hey guys. Uh., Im really puzzled on this one. I purchased a refurbished 53" SC2 from USCutter. Arrived a week later. I set it up. Didnt get around to hooking it up to the computer. Plugged in the 120Vac and ran the "test" function a few times with the pen plotter and a piece of paper. All seemed to go well. Decided to get around to actually cutting something today. Installed Vinylmaster. Plugged in the usb...and really bad things happened. You know that smell, that you sure aren't supposed to smell around electronics? yeah. That's what this cutter did. I peeked at the motherboard. One of the Toshiba Stepper driver chips is nice and black around 2-3 pins and has the burnt smell. Mind you, the machine wasn't even turned on. No fuses blew. It's plotted before from the test program. I havent checked to see if the PSU is ok. I'll be calling USCutter support Monday in hopes of a replacement motherboard...dang! I cant even comprehend how USB would blow a stepper driver? PS i own several CNC machines I've built, imported, or rebuilt myself, so I'm no stranger to the internals. Im genuinely puzzled at this one. Anyone else heard of this? Similar experiences? Maybe next time around I'll go with good ole serial port instead.