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clear tape is not flexible enough to use on compound curves. It does not stretch. Best to use for flat surfaces and only dry. Paper tape would be the best to use on curves. Plus you can wet paper tape, you cannot wet clear tape. You should practice more with paper tape.

he is trying to use the sc with a plug in from action illustrated - I haven't owned a SC so not sure but usually those plug ins for corel or illy are designed for the roland and graphtecs - I know they always have rolands in their displays at the shows - - I would suggest getting going with a real cutting software first

cast vinyl is thinner by nature - if your application tape is applied to your graphic without bubbles or creases in the tape you can tell when you have bubbles practice is your friend and you have chosen and expensive project to learn compound curves on. CLEAR will never stretch enough to allow the vinyl to adhere to a panel that curves 2 ways at once - like the bumble bee stripes on a truck bed - if you can do it you are better than 99 percent of us that have been doing this over 10 years

ummm ... how are you holding your squeegee? there are times that I apply as much pressure as i possibly can, still have never gone through app tape. i prefer dry applications as well, but even when doing wet, never tore paper tape. there are times when i wrinkle the app tape, that's when i'm rushing to tape something up, applying too much pressure, and squeegeeing the wrong way. totally user error.

The only time that I've needed to use a high tack tape was when I did a matte vinyl for an art show, all other times, regardless of 651/751/951, I've used medium tack. You feel more comfortable with the clear, and that well and good, but just remember what some of the other responders said, clear will NEVER stretch, so trying over a compound curved surface and expecting some level of everything being able to lay flat is highly unrealistic. And for the record, I can't say that I have ever squeegeed through application tape, whether it was paper or clear. Good luck.

What he ^^^ said. It takes a LOT of practice and the Pro's use paper. Once you get it installed if you are fighting the release you can wet the surface of paper and it will help get it off. You say you need to see the vinyl but that makes no sense to me. If you have your app tape on without bubbles then you will see if you get a bubble in the paper too and you might get one here and there but they can be removed with a pin prick (not a knife tip though) The perforated holes are for the gear drive machines like the Gerber cutters and while you don't see them all that often out in the private sector they are often true tangential head commercial grade machines. The weird spaced overlap is something to do with an alignment on the sprockets. I don't know that I have ever bought 15" vinyl that wasn't perforated from any source. Some 30" stuff I have bought was perforated. Never had an issue with 951 (or 751 for that matter) not sticking. It is much more pliable so it will react differently than 651 where 651 is so stiff it stays down kind of like a piece of plastic. I think it recommended to let it sit a few minutes to gain a "bite". Are you squeegeeing it really well? Compound shapes are much trickier to do a good job on the squeegee. The wrap guys use the air release and chase the bubbles out as they go.

skeeter are you trying to say it is like running your Porsche on Kerosene? Not my favorite either but it can get the job done