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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/03/2018 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Posting some of my stuff. Try not to laugh. I've only been doing this for about 8 weeks. From just being an email web surfer. I know, the Vinyl Stuff is out of proportion, etc. Perhaps this takes you back to your early days? lol... Please feel free to critique the hell out of it!
  2. 1 point
    skeeter gives the instructions for properly setting your blade - excess blade WILL also affect offset even though it my cut the right depth . . . . that is why she post that over and over and over again - it has helped literally hundreds of people
  3. 1 point
    You can't cut a JPEG. You will need to vector it, although if it's just ruler markings and numbers it'd be easier to just remake it in your vector program. Once you have the design as a vector you can easily cut it up into smaller sections to fit your vinyl.
  4. 1 point
    You cannot cut jpeg images. The design must be a vector file. If you had the file in a vector, you could separate it.
  5. 1 point
    Nice sale, you are busy. Would you mind if I sent it to you for your opinion? Would I need something special to duplicate a high resolution picture? It would probably have to be on a polo type shirt 50 50 cotton and poly. Just the front.
  6. 1 point
    I'm so busy that I don't even take on new work sorry. We did $7K worth of hoodies last week. It's that season. 15" press will get you started if you also grab a press pillow or two. I would suggest the swing away style, it gives you more ability to look down on the shirt and get things aligned. You will want to develop a system for squaring up the design on the shirt. Most shirts have a slight crease down the middle that is USUALLY centered, not always. I call this a build crease and I think they use it two sew when they actually make the shirts. If it's not visible just carefully fold it and press it for a couple seconds to form a center crease. Then you can use a clear plastic craft ruler if you have one or buy some sort of alignment guide purpose built. I have a couple of the Fiskars rulers with 1/4" lines along them. The basic layout is usually around 3 inches down from the neck collar and around 4 inches over to the center on a left chest logo. There are several alignment guides out there but all of them are only so-so accurate. There is no single one spot. It changes depending on the shirt style and size so you have to develop an eye for it. If the design is big enough to just align it by eye without the ruler I use a finger count to get them all similar, like two fingers down from the neck or three. A full hand down from the neck on back of a hoodie so there is room for the hood to hang without completely covering the logo. I usually lay one out on a table and just set the logo on and see what looks right and take a couple measurements before I press one. Nothing worse than having someones logo tucked under their armpit. Later when I got bigger and busy I bought a high end cutter and high end press (Fusion) and a $300 laser alignment system from Hotronix that has up to 4 red lasers that I set to keep everything square and all the same. This has been especially helpful with the sports jerseys that have a logo and a separate individual number and all need to look the same layout.
  7. 1 point
    Shirts and apparel is where the sweet spot is in my little side business. Signs are viable but also often demand installation which is where it gets more involved and risky. Hard to compete with the big shops who run flat bed printers. They pump out a 4'x8' for sale sign for $190 around here and do full color print decals for vehicles that are also hard to compete with. I actually did both for a long time but slid over to the apparel side as the demand built. I do maybe 5% signage and 95% apparel and the signage is for my shirt customers LOL. Best part for me, a part timer, is you can work in all weather and all times of the day or night. I hold down a day job and do the other at night or weekends. I got into team sports as well as shirts and have several clubs and schools that I build jerseys and parent gear for.
  8. 1 point