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I used to but stopped unless asked to specifically. I DO have a conversation with the client if I am doing something like a family reunion for instance and generally make a design that fits fine on the really big and squeezes on most of the smalls and a few of the youth and then possibly a reduced size for the much smaller kids. If you explain the cost associated then they usually are a little less picky or they will pay more for the effort.

Second generation sign maker ~ dad(deceased) & mom, stepdad, sister, brother-in-law, nephew, and many family friends are or were also sign painters. Began at age 6, painting snowflakes on Xmas windows with my family and from 16 to 20 took 'Sign Graphics' at LA Trade Tech(seen in 'SignPainters:the movie'). I then left for the Netherlands where, after a few years of bumming around Europe I was employed as set painter at a theater where I then worked for 15 years. Eventually, I began to miss being able to visit with my family more often and so moved back to LA. where I continued working as set painter for several years, until I began to bore of the L.A. film 'industry' and little-by-little began making signs again. Now, for the past couple of years, I can happily say that sign making makes up about 95% of my income(I still do the occasional set paint or faux finish). I'm also thrilled to see so many new sign makers out there and that the trade may not be going the way of lamplighter or switchboard operator after all. As of July I've(more or less) conquered my plotterphobia and am now the owner of a pre-owned Roland Camm-1 Pro GX-300(which I am presently trying to convince to obey me, with limited success). Hoping to tap into some helpful plotter and/or Flexi aficionados, as well as just meet some cool people. Thanks, Alicia Zee

At 6' 7" I wear a 3X-Tall. Best friends owned a silkscreen shop until recently and they would throw an extra on for me all the time if they were doing something fun. It was almost always the same screen as they used for everything else and you really couldn't tell. When I would order for our volunteer fire department there were a couple of 4X and 5X, so they created a second screen with a bigger image, but it really wasn't that noticeable so we stopped doing it. Making a larger image can get to be a problem if you're doing multiple colors in silk screen. The weight gets to adding up. A 10x10 image is 100 square inches of ink, but a 12x12 is 144, nearly 50% more ink. You can really tell the difference. The shirt is already heavier and now it has all that extra ink. The bigger image also means a bigger sweaty spot.

welcome aboard, we need some fired up new life on here

Look up the Big Squeegee cut vinyl tool. There are several version but the black edged one it the one for cut vinyl. I use it on almost all my projects. It does take a little practice and I usually burn about a foot at the start to get it going straight and then I use a 24" ruler to align that edge and push. There are two ways to push the tape along and I have best luck with it sitting on the work and rolling backwards as I push it. If there are small lettering I flip it around and place the roll inside the scoop. Watch a youtube and all that will make more sense.

Hey...who you callin' old! Just kidding...thanks! Yeah, I'd heard from another sign painter that Mack was out that way. My friend actually planned his road trip around making a stop by there. I'd love to visit there myself one day!

I really admire the old signmakers - today most "sign" people have no idea what a maul stick is. Found out a year ago that Mack Brush company is about 45 minutes away when taking a pet to a new vet - had to make a stop and pay respects! Salute!

I avoid install indoors as much as I can but I came to the conclusion that a dry micro-cloth was the best. Any type of cleaner seemed to cause me issues even if I wiped it down a day early. I think it moisturizes the paint or something. While the dust with dry cloth and have a LOT of patience. If it's water based 631 do NOT try the wet removal trick where you spray the paper tape after you get it up. That works great on cars and stuff but not on walls. I tended to have to carefully work the app tape off while continuing to work the vinyl back down on the wall. It will want to pull up often but you can push it back on the wall. I have a felt squeegee that the wrap guys use (I think) that is sort of like the soccer ball and will help push the vinyl down into the texture of the wall and you can go ver the vinyl with it after the app tape is off too. This is just one mans opinion your mileage may vary.

Tweezers. If it is not a smooth wall, maybe add a tennis ball to your list. In that same vein, something to push on the vinyl while you lift it up with tweezers like this https://goo.gl/UyUAvX if it won't stick to the wall and wants to lift with the transfer tape. 631 is much less sticky than 751. You could have issues if the wall has texture. Alcohol could discolor the wall. A cleaner that won't discolor and dries fast.

we never run

Welcome aboard Alicia-Zee

Also the actual high end folks sublimate before sewing the shirts together. The ones that they try and sub front and back of a prebuilt shirt end up with shite streaks in the armpits and just don't look that good.

Welcome!

Welcome from Michigan Alecia Zee