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I buy the off brand inks for my daily printer. Just for printouts like receipts or other text, and drafts of a project mostly. Some times I am not sure if I come out ahead as it clogs more so more cleaning cycles. But the regular cartridges are 4x as much. That makes up for a lot of cleaning cycles.

A place I used to work used all Roland inks and never laminated. Decals for vehicles, signs, print directly on banner, all just raw. The inks held up just find with out added protection. Added some frog juice on occasion.

Yup... Figuring out what works best for one's Workflow & Budget is a big deal for a shop. What may work perfect for one may be disaster for another. I print just a few Positives a week to burn Screens with and the OEM Epson pigment inks Print fine, solid Transparencies for the Halftone work, without breaking the Bank. Also have no issues with Chip Reset Workarounds & Schemes.

Agreed... Wise to stick with the Quality Products and Workmanship. The Graphics Industry has been swept the way of so many other Products and Services these days. Our World is flush with Walmart Mentality and Confusion of Low Price / Good Value.

Skarkrow I can guarantee there are a lot of shops using aftermarket bulk inks and loads of house vinyl, I couldn't bring myself to do it and not be confident in the product I produce - mine cost more but there is definitely a difference. I will leave the people buying on price alone to learn on their own about that - to me it is more than just getting something out the door. also I see a lot of post from people with nozzle test that say it is great that I would have thrown away that head LONG before it got near that point

I have seen a lot of fading on solvents with aftermarket inks but my personal experience is roland factory ink 4 years outside unlaminated looks just like when I installed it - on my last truck had several . . . newer truck I haven't stickered up. to me it is not worth saving maybe $10 ca cart for aftermarket inks and a lot more problems with my first printer that came with aftermarket inks - no problems once I converted it back to roland inks. looking at prints in new orlands a few years ago I think they was using some formula they cooked up in a bathtub - it was hideous on most places

It is called HTV, not HTPU. But you are technically right. But I was using the common vernacular just because it is the common vernacular. Standard inkjet inks still don't stick or dry well to PU. The first link to Color Print: "ColorPrint Easy is the easiest weeding print and cut material ever! Compatible with eco-solvent and solvent based printers/cutters" Not standard inks. The second link to brilliant vinyl: "A heat press is highly recommended for applying this inkjet transfer paper due to temperature and pressure requirements. " Says it is a paper, not vinyl or PU since we are getting technical. The third link is more Color Print, sames as first. Forth link: First customer review I saw: "This product flaked off of the printed sheet. Please note several issues:1) The description says it is for inkjet printers. I used a regular inkjet printer. There are special inkjet printers that use Oil-Based & Eco-Solvent Ink. If this is a product for these special printers than it should have said so. I'm also going to report that this product is mislabeled. Is it vinyl or paper? It is listed in the Transfer Paper category. At the time of this review the description clearly says it is "Vinyl". This product didn't say it was for sublimation printing therefore I assumed, and rightfully so, that it was for a regular inkjet printer.2) The product came with two different labels attached to the plastic protective bag, which were "A4 Dark Transfer Paper" and the other says "Printable Heat Transfer Vin(yl). Which product is it?3) This product came with no cardboard insert to keep it from being bent, which it was. I returned this with a cardboard insert. This mailing issue should be on Amazon as it says that it is Fulfilled by Amazon." Seems like a scam.