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wildgoose does the most garments of any of the mods but other members should be along that use that particular product. I use easyweed 90 percent of the time and have not used the featherlite - first thing that sticks out to me is the directions are : Cut Mirror image using 45° or 60° blade. Weed material. Temp: 310° F/155° C. Preheat garment for 2-3 seconds. Press with Medium Pressure for 15 seconds. Peel cold. are you pre pressing the shirt for the 2-3 seconds before applying the graphic to eliminate any moisture in the garment (yes even sitting on a shelf they will have a certain amount of moisture) ? did you check your platen across all 4 quadrants to make sure the temp is consistent and up to temp? are you applying with enough pressure that after pressing you can see the fabric weave in the vinyl? Not sure where you are getting your shirts but with shirts from a wholesaler I never wash first as anything like fabric softener can contaminate the surface of the shirt and affect the adhesion (or even if you are like my wife and use 3 times more detergent than necessary leaves residue - washed a blanket after she complained and took 3 more washings without detergent to get it to not suds in the washer) I am sure someone will be around shortly to help that uses the feather lite

Looking to step up to a shop series or professional cutter from an entry level/value cutter. I've got a 7 year old 24" PCUT that has gotten me by until now. I need a cutter with better cut quality, faster inches per minute without compromising cut quality and less noise is a plus. I currently struggle with precision, production time and limitations to jobs. I'd like to be able to do more precise images, produce more quantities and take on the larger jobs. I've exhausted fine tuning the PCUT many many times to still get disappointed with the cut quality with clean cut blades, pressure, blade exposure, offsets, speeds and so on. My budget is about $2K, lower the better. I've looked at the Titan series 1-3, Graphtec CE-6000 and the Mimaki in that price point. My main needs are to stay in the 24" cutter range, precision cuts, faster speeds, less noise and no need for contour cutting. I mainly use 651, and I'm the type to keep usable scraps for small jobs. I would like to be able to move the pinch rollers for that reason. From what I've seen in pictures, the roller positions are limited on the Titan series? Most jobs are small quantities and sizes but about once a month or so, I will have a bulk order request of 400+, detailed cuts and or large cut requests. Correct me if I'm wrong, I see that the Titan series uses VinlyMaster, Graphtech uses SignCut and the Mimaki uses Simple/Fine Cut. My question is, how is the transition and learning curve from using Inkscape & SignBlazer for 7 years? Are the programs easy to transition to and learn? SignBlazer files to the new programs? I'd like to hear some pros and cons and comparisons if you've had experiences with the cutters. If I missed anything, please chime in. Please let me know your thoughts to which cutter and why. Thanks!

Do you have a true cutting program? I do not use Corel, and while I believe you can cut from it, it is not a cutting program. Did you get any software with the cutter?

Random cuts through the design are not offset or overcut, that sounds more like a static issue.

Rob, whazzup! Troubleshoot steps to try --- 1. Use the SignBlazer v7.0.0 hybrid from HERE - http://www.uscuttersupport.com/downloads/Software/SignBlazer/signblazer_setup.exe 2. Choose RedSail model and perhaps Copam, try different ones. 3. Change the Com port manually to lower than 4. 4. Did you actually see it cut before buying it?

than according to the instructions either the drivers need reinstalled, wrong drivers or possibly bad board if it still comes up unknown device. I would first look for the most current ftdi drivers

Well it looks like the Graphtec is winning so far! Most of my learning of SB is from trial and error, youtube, here and self-taught. Starting over fresh with a new program will be a pain but I'm sure it shouldn't take too long. I don't even trust stepping out of the room while my PCUT is going. I just fill what I can in one row of 24", cut, remove from cutter, cut again while I weed. If I remember correctly I can export or save my SB files as .eps? With Graphtec pro studio (Flexi) would I need to still use Inkscape to vectorize files?

Sorry I can't help out much in the graphic department due to not actually using that set-up but I have seen a lot of posts recently about the offering. You will have some learning to do for sure. I think that's a given with any change. Other than the initial pain it's usually worth the effort to improve yourself. The Graphtec's are known for being bullet proof and have built a name that few other cutters can compete with due to their reliability and build quality. I started out with a P-Cut for about 2-1/2 years so I know what you are going through. Someone once said "The quality remains long after the price has been forgotten" and that definitely hold true to cutters. My Summa is a little different but similar to the CE. I have cut 30 or 40 feet of HTV in relatively small 3" wide Left Chest logos on that thing. I set it up and got it running and went to bed and it cut all night and was sitting there when I woke up the next day. You can't do THAT with a P-Cut. Heck I couldn't get more than about 10 of anything before it wigged out.

graphtec hands down and with the free download of graphtec pro studio (flexi pro cloud) it is impossible to beat the deal - the software would run you as much as you pay for the plotter if you bought it separately. you know you are in it for a long run now after owning a cutter this long so get a graphtec ce6000-60 and be amazed

I NEVER wash shirts before install either

What happens when you try to do "Test" from the on-board cutter dashboard?

#wildgoose personally I get mine from a wholesaler and never do anything to them before pressing and delivering. I would think that would be long enough if you can lay your hand on it and it is only warm

APC here too - tried a couple of cyberpower over the years but they didn't last as long and both of them over time started acting up with false positives other problems causing annoying beeps . like darcshadow said the apc batteries can be bought at our local interstate dealer and are like the ones in emergency lighting found in most commercial buildings

If you're getting a UPS to level out voltage levels be sure to check the spec. on the unit. Some units simply pass the power through till there is a power loss then they switch over to battery where as other units you are technically running off battery all the time which is what levels out your line voltage, and others have some caps to level the line voltage for both the battery backups outlets as well as non backup outlets. I believe most APC units do voltage leveling on all outlets. Also check the specs on how the AC voltage is being generated and if your equipment can handle it. Some use transformers and give you true AC voltage where others use step switches which simulates AC but some electronics don't like it and will burn out over time, or not work at all.

APC has been pretty good. They have replaceable batteries, which is really handy because like any battery, they will degrade over time and use. Right now we have two ES-750 in the office. Mine handles a computer, two large monitors and my cutter. My wife's has a computer, two monitors and the printer attached. They give us enough power to finish up what we were doing and then safely shut things down in a power outage. The specs say they will run "full load" for up to 3.5 minutes. But I try to buy them about twice as big as I need and you seldom are running full-load anyway. They have a nice little program to help you select the size on their website: http://www.apc.com/us/en/tools/ups_selector/home/device

Dimensions are 2.236" x 0.486" PS4 LightBar.svg