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Showing most liked content on 02/05/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    I concur with the advice above as far as the center crease and overall placement. A lot of new shirts will have a slight crease down the middle from the factory, I call this a build crease and they use it during the sew stages of the build on their end. Not all is still visible but most of the time you can see at least a hint of one. If not I either find the edges if they have side seams or on tee's that have no side seams I do exactly like arty and fold a quick one in for myself. If you don't use a center seam you are likely going to get a crooked design. Once the seam is established you can use one of those alignment tools like Dakota showed to align square from the middle. There are typical rules of thumb for graphics but you always want to check them out before blindly trusting them because they don't work in every instance. V necks will mess with things for instance. On a regular tee shirt and most generally speaking a front graphic whether a left chest (LC) or a center full width will be around 3" down from the lower part of the collar to the top of the graphic of to the top of the main level of text. Some occasions it looks better to raise it or lower it a little to suit the design. If in doubt I usually get my wife or one of the kids to put a shirt on and we do a test placement measurement to go by. Typical offset for LC work is usually around 4" over from center to the center of the design but I slide that around for different sizes of shirts. The Old school rule is that the center of the design should line up pretty close to the point that the collar meets the shoulder. This is usually correct except for really open scoop necks. On the back typically 4" down from the collar to the top and often lower if a hoodie so it doesn't get covered up. I use 2,3,4 fingers or whole hand many times in a sort of a quick layout that speeds up production. I upgraded to a really sweet press a few years back and also bought a $300 laser alignment set-up made by Hotronix that has taken me to another level of production speed and precision in matching large groups of shirts and especially uniforms that have to all look exactly the same. Not necessary but helpful if you ever get to the point you are doing a lot of volume I highly recommend it.
  2. 2 points
    Hi @eprcvinyls , @cardudenc, I'm sorry to hear that both of you have experienced issues with our cart not working the way it should. Sadly, this is not the first time I've heard of this issue. We are and have been actively looking into our options to resolve this for a few months. Sadly, it is not as a simple programming fix, but the platform we run our website on. Rest assured we will resolve this matter, but it will likely some time. In the meantime though, I am investigating a temporary fix where we'll allow you, our customers, the ability to save a cart and recreate it at a later date by simply visiting a certain url. I'll get back to both of you within the next week or so if this is something we end up doing. I don't know that it will be perfect, but it is likely the best I can do for now. Most sincerely, David
  3. 2 points
    One suggestion from a design standpoint, I'd use a script font so that the heartbeat line flows as one continuous line.
  4. 2 points
    Cream is ok. Sand lets you decide if you want a deep etch or something a bit smother. You can also change the grit and get the rough finish. Depends on what you want to accomplish. Heavy beer mugs I like the rough deep etch for that man kind of thing.
  5. 2 points
    Put this up for my young daughter. Oscar Wilde quote.
  6. 2 points
    MIRROR...MIRROR...MIRROR!! 16x20" is the way to go if you are buying a press...most of my shirt fronts/backs are 10+ inches wide. Not to mention those XX & XXX shirts take a bit larger graphic to look right. Shirts take a lot of steps....Design, Vectorize Design, Cut MIRRORED Design, Weed, & finally Press. BUT, shirts are fun! Sue2
  7. 1 point
    well it let me put in 240 inches but it sure is small on the screen i know you can blow it up. i was just wondering. I don't plan on doing anything longer then maybe 3 feet
  8. 1 point
    I would have went up and suggested they throw a pot of boiling water on it. That would loosen up the vinyl really quickly.
  9. 1 point
    no experience but thinking same as you thermo shock in one area seems dangerous - I am sure they are pros though
  10. 1 point
    WOW that is insane... I guess that is how you can roll living in Cali... Out here most are retired folks in the town i live in, but i do live within 25 miles of a few other surrounding towns that have people with more money and still work daily. That is why im not sure about this stuff making the $. I keep seeing more and more Decal people pop up on facebook the past 2 weeks but i have a feeling most of those are small 12 inch machine operators. cause its just small 6-8 inch decals Ive not seen anything big out of them. Just found out about 2 local shops, again they deal in small 12x12 or 12x14 material only Oracal 651 or lower. Thank you for the advice and I get what your saying. Thanks for the tip. I will have to try that. I guess if i can make a lil off some decals and stickers i will put that money towards a 15x15 Press a lil bigger and one that swings maybe be easier to work with.
  11. 1 point
    Thank you for addressing the issue and hopefully it can be fixed. I was just trying to get together everything i needed and then it was gone.. I am now just saving a link to each of the items i want so i can just click the link and then add to cart when I am ready to purchase.
  12. 1 point
    I maybe wrong and others can correct me, but I don't believe there are vinyls designed for heat transfer to non fabric materials. If you're putting a decal on a mug/glass, standard vinyl is what you'd use. You maybe getting confused with sublimation, which uses heat to transfer a printed image to a mug.
  13. 1 point
    One trick I use is to fold the shirt in half, lengthwise and press for 2 seconds. This will give you a center line on the shirt. Fold the HTV, non sticky side, in half. Cut a small notch at the top and bottom at the crease and you'll have the center points on your HTV. Line up the HTV center points with the center line on the shirt and press.
  14. 1 point
    Uh, yeah that would mean I actually get to leave my dungeon and go hunting. Ha fat chance. I bagged a nice target sticker multiple times at the local range though. Definitely a nice shooting gun.
  15. 1 point
    So my day job is site work and excavation. We were opening up a new job last week and clearing off a field to put up some apartment complexes. I left a guy there to scrape up weeds with a large wheel loader. he calls late in the evening to tell me he ran over a rifle on the job. It was in a scabbard and had likely bounced off a truck or side-by-side at some point. Said he smashed it pretty good. I go over the next day and have a look. It's a fairly new Ruger American Predator series chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor. Has an upper level chinese scope and a bi-pod all in a decent scabbard. Stock is broken but just at the shoulder all there rest is fine. I say "Cool find dude. Finder keepers." He says "Oh I quit hunting a long time ago you take it." (he didn't have to ask me twice!) Had the local cops run a search for stolen or lost and no one had turned it in so they say it's mine now. Just needs a new stock. I start looking for a used one or replacement and have a hard time because its a fairly new model and specific stock for the barrel. Finally give up and call Ruger about it. They ask why I want a new stock. I tell them it got ran over (didn't tell them it was by a large piece of construction equipment) they say "we will have one out to you in 6 to 8 working days for free." Mic drop..... No way. free I say? She says yep, have a great weekend and good hunting. You better believe I will lady! Happy day indeed. I looked up the equipment and there's between $700 and $900 right there depending on actual prices vs list. Way cool. Has a little rust on the barrel as it had been laying out there who knows how long but I did the barrel re-black kit thing and it cleaned up pretty good. Somehow the scope is totally fine even being nearly squished and laying around getting wet, all the rest is in great shape. Supposed to be real nice shooters.
  16. 1 point
    Not yet, I i got in Feb 2017 but hadn't used it maybe for a month or so i think ,At the time i was still real busy with my photography and decals. But ive done probably 40 pressings on it and probably about $1500 so far. And thats after costs were paid for material used etc.
  17. 1 point
    You know you're going to have a post a pic of a trophy you managed to snag with that new toy!
  18. 1 point
    Then after cleanup. Dakota gets better pics. And, we got the same mugs!!!!
  19. 1 point
    That is the etch I try to get. Has a special look to it.
  20. 1 point
    The cream holds up pretty well, it's just not as impressive as sand blasting. It's basically an acid etch on the glass, and feels like there is no depth to it. It does it's job and removes the gloss from the glass. It just stinks, so try to do it outside or in a well ventilated area. Make sure that you have the mask down really well on the edges that you plan on blasting, or using the cream. Etching cream is fairly cheap, give it a try.
  21. 1 point
    Not trying to photobomb Mikes thread but I am also a fan of the coarse sand with a deep etch that you just can't get with the acid cream - but I can see where I might use cream on pyrex like Haumana said - not sure I would want to try to etch pyrex real deep
  22. 1 point
    There is a glass etching cream that's available, if there's no room for the air compressor and sand blasting cabinet. It'll work in a bind. I had someone cream etch pyrex baking dishes for everyone in her family - we have lots of pot lucks here, and often times a dish makes it way into someone else's kitchen collection. No longer a problem now!
  23. 1 point
    I rarely do decals like this but here's what I'd do.. I charge the dimensions on every color. For this decal, I'd split the colors up and line them up as if they're ready to cut, see what the dimensions are and total them up. The text is over 24 inches so on my 24 inch machine I'd have to tilt it (cutting horizontal is a waste of vinyl). Optional - Notice the white pieces circled in green are out of place. They double the width of the white parts of the fish, so I'd move them close to cut them then layer them separately later. Optional - I may also add a little to the measurements because I'd actually use about 16 inches of vinyl to get a 15 inch piece. You may notice that I round up the measurements a little already. I'd charge $75. I'd probably charge $100 if I installed it. If that's too much, good, I hate decals and didn't want to do it anyway. But in reality, you're using less than $10 of material. If you're happy making $35 on the job, you did fine. You'd be happier if you made $65 though.
  24. 1 point
    don't be sorry- it is all part of the learning process
  25. 1 point
    Sorry, I should looked at profile, only 2 post...
  26. 1 point
    Oh LOL. I just was showing my mom the cutters online i watched a SC2 video then a titan 2 video WOW the titan 2 you cant even hear it doing anything you just see it working lol... I wish i could get the titan more i think about it but man that's a extra 200 just for the Regular Titan.. and I have to have money for vinyl in hopes i can sell something to make a lil money back.. its been over 6 months since ive had any income at all.
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    I would bet you will make more money from shirts than signs.
  29. 1 point
    Nice find indeed! Ruger is great to work with and their lifetime guarantee program is amazing. Pretty much no questions asked in my experience. I’m not surprised they are sending you a free stock. You may want to send the entire rifle in for a once-over being that it was ran over and who knows what before that. They may just replace it.