Leaderboard

Just learned how to create forced perspective decals. Had fun working with this one, although it was a bit of a challenge for me trying to figure out how to do what I wanted in Inkscape & SCALP 4. This is what it looks like when standing underneath; This is standing down the hallway about 15 feet; I'll definitely be looking into doing more projects like this. =)

hand lettering is a lost art.... the free flowing sign layout is gone by the way side.. computer generated sign layouts are just computer generated and they sure look like it .. no personality .. letter coverage to sign background ratio is totaly wrong.. when I returned to sign business, I wanted to use a computer to make my free hand creations. it is difficult but I'm getting there.. nothing like pulling up to a 10 X 40 road sign with copy in your hand, chalk line, pencil and 36inch yard stick. and the only computer is in your head... there is so many tricks that I even learned from old boomer sign painters that lived in the early 1900's....... its funny how I still recall and use a lot of them everyday.. when I get old ( 74 now ) I will get on one of these forums and devote time to help all young start up people in all phases of sign business...

Outlaw by LHF mark-s

I like the ones posted but having the luxury of sitting here and looking at them (instead of making one of my own because I'm terrible at things like this) I have a couple suggestions. On the first, separate the P and D by cutting the stem of the P to match the curve of the D. On the second, separate the N and D and make the first letters larger. Maybe it's just me, but I don't like big thick letters touching. And I'm sure no one would notice it but there are 3 identical Ps almost in a row so making the first one larger helps break that up. p1.eps p2.eps

Use HTV. Works like a champ. HTV = Heat transfer vinyl

IF the design is small enough try laying your app tape sticky side up and then place the vinyl down into it with the center touching first in a U shape and squeegee the back of the carrier sheet. It helps a LOT. I usually keep hold of one side while I squeegee the other half then let it down and finish it up. For larger stuff I use a "Big Squeegee Cut Vinyl Tool". Kind of expensive but after a little practice I tape off 24" wide by 8-10ft with no help and no wrinkles.

Screw Al Gore, mark-s invented fonts AND the internet!

i tried looking and couldnt find anything sorry

Well here it is .The Veterans Bus from Hell!!..Lets start off that that when i first came across this job ,I had permission from the top dogs to do all the decals with no worries per The miltary commander in charge from this post. So he told me exactly what he wanted no if's,and or buts, If i suggested something it wasnt going to happen,His way or nothing so with that in mind lol.. Here it goes.... I was told that this was going to be painted with a blue banner like in the picture and he wanted me to remove all the old decals that he wanted gone. Ok done.. Well he went and bought some 2000 grit etc sand paper and i removed the decals,adhesive etc and he started sanding away after the fact, He was trying to do as much work to save cost from the body shop for the blue... Well all said and done and 2 days later i get a call that he wants me to put on a blue wrap instead cause He just found out that the paint was going to be out of their budget !! Really ? OMG.!! I was told he had already made arrangements with the body shop,Well he didnt. So now that a lot of the paint in some areas were sanded down to bare metal i knew this was going to be bad.... So i quoted him the material cost and a little labor Since he was helping when i needed it even tho this was mostly donated for a good cause lol....... So i put the blue on and noticed that where he had sanded to metal was showing a ghost effect thru the vinyl .( Let me point out that i used Oracal 751 Brilliant Blue and he actually wanted the cheaper 651 but i told him i REALLY DONT SUGGEST IT .I got my way one one thing) So The ghosting look thru the vinyl Sh*t. and paint missing behind the Usa flag etc And the Red Lettering on the Blue( Which i suggested At least have a White Outline or something He said nope..Ok. The only thing he was told to order was the (20" i think) 3 large Circle logos that went on the rear,and 2 sides That were out of Florida at some decal shop( he had to get those Per Headquarters Rules) and they were cut and pieced together with tape in 12 peices per Large Decal,what a mess, I had to completely take them apart and re apply piece by piece etc etc.. So all said and done, removed the decals, the lights etc put the blue on and i got everything put on the way he wanted and i got free advertising on 2 sides(put on after the pics were taken) and the Bus was in the local parade and everyone gave compliments that seen it,even a senator showed up and said it looked great. Well to me it could have gone way better ,but i accept it as a learning and do it the "customer his way way experience".. Enjoy and please feel free with any suggestions and comments,This was my first ever at this type of install. I know there is some issues somewhere... You can really see the ghosting in the last picture with me on both sides of the large decal. Total SH*# i know. Thanks Guys

many of the young uns could learn a lot from the old sign painters - used to study them a bit and have lots of respect for the lost art

buster, I'm trying to take the easy way out... I'm also a sign writer from many years gone by.. I guess I could grab a #20 quill and letter on awning.. one of these days i'm going to post in introductions all the many years of hand lettering signs and all my travels.. 74 and still going strong.. thanks for your help and letting me rib you a bit... the signmaker

Be creative make a reverse decal and use it as stencil

What darcshadow said about ~not~ moving the box and using the 2 different tools will indeed work but, As I mentioned, If you are creating a large design and need to cut it down into tileable peices for installation, you'll want to move the 'Cut' box/shape to create an overlap, which is definitely recommended for tiling.

Often a Weld (Draw,) , Union, (Inkscape), or Unite, (Illustrator,) function in you path, pathfinder or shaping menu will correct these overlaps, though not prevent. I don't know what that would be in Graphtec Studio or if it is even available. I would image something like it would be. In Draw sometimes I find I have to change the direction of the path before hand.

just use 2 of those h post for larger wind sails like that

Duplicate the item you want to slice. Leave it directly over top of the original. Draw a box (or Shape) over the object and position it's edge where you want to slice it. Duplicate that box (or shape) and slide it over and line up with the box you created it from (where you want to slice). To avoid confusion, make all 4 of these objects different colors Select one of the 'Cut' boxes and (shift click) one of the objects you want to split and then, Path>Difference. Select the other of the 'Cut' boxes and (shift click) the other object and again, Path>Difference. You now should have 2 lined-up halves of your original object (in 2 different colors) left. You may have to go back and forth from Outline view to Normal View to keep up with it all. You can overlap the 2 cut boxes an eighth or quarter inch before punching if you want to tile the finished pieces. This same procedure can be used more surgically with complicated, precise paths as well. Have a look here for additional pointers.

Happens at the beginning of every month.

Between 1" and 62 feet. If you are just starting out make a bunch of 42 foot decals, it will save you a ton of time.

sometimes we just go in circles around here

I am good with their designs at this point. Mainly because down here.... camo sells. Thats all I need! Slap camo on anything and the folks in the south buy it up!

Kinda like a doctor, or lawyer, best to leave your own logo, to someone else.

Heres another Idea pippindecals2.eps

sometimes you just have to try things anyways - at least I do

I really appreciate the detailed info. It does have me second guessing. I also realize its a lot of work, from the sanding and prepping, painting, dipping, cleaning and then the clear coating. All that considered (time wise) plus the cost of the product, It seems it might be hard for me to actually sell in my small town. I looked on ebay and there are people selling them already and their price is about what I figured..... just seems way to high to resell. However........... for a kit for less than a hundred bucks........ I still want to give it go...... just because. LOL

Conde will do a one time sample for the price of one mug.