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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/19/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Looking at your first picture, I believe you are cutting too deep and cutting into the backing paper. Reset your blade length as per MZ SKEETER'S instructions and reduce your pressure settings. You should barely be making an indentation on the backing paper with your blade.
  2. 4 points
    comments should be about the problem - not personality conflicts. if it continues the thread will be locked Dirt fisherman - keep in mind the people on here helping volunteer their time (many for several years) when it appears someone is not even trying to find answers themselves they do get frustrated and someone with 19 years of experience they might be expecting them to have a solid knowledge of basic functions - - Most of these people read EVERY post on here trying to help - so long winded replies calling everyone condescending puts people in a defensive mode instead of a helpful mode - lets keep the questions and answers condensed without getting personal.
  3. 3 points
    The old timers here, are here to help. We do not know every program out there. we use what we use. Combined, we do know every program for design and cutting. In my opinion, grab a beer and click on help is a fantastic idea. There is more in that click than you can get waiting for help from the forum. In my humble opinion.
  4. 3 points
    I have read the recommendation to leave the plotter with the pressure rollers up - 99 percent of the time for the past 10-11 years mine has been left down and vinyl loaded. I don't follow some directions well I guess
  5. 2 points
    Angie I saw that machine on CL and wondered if they got it sold. I am the mod mentioned and actually here in your area and run a newer Summa. That machine is pretty old but as long as it's been taken care of should be a good option especially at what you paid for it. I recommend trying out the free Signblazer if you're on a super tight budget and don't already have design skills. I run a mac and so use SignCut Pro in combination with Adobe Illustrator but both of those are paid programs.
  6. 2 points
    Call Support? Now why would I want to do a thing like that? Nooooo! That's entirely too easy. I would much rather crack a beer, have a seat, and bother the REAL people! Just wanted to update anyone following. I managed to get this rig running, finally. And I gotta tell ya... It helps so much TO INSTALL THE CORRECT CUTTER! That entire time... I had SC2 selected, NOT the Titan 2. After making the correct choice, the bells & whistles came alive. It was a Hallmark moment. No kidding. If any of you could have seen my behavior, prior to choosing wisely, you'd have grabbed popcorn & a fountain drink. Yeah... it was sad. Anyway... After a few test cuts, I noticed that the offset was too low (rounded, incomplete cuts). Of course, I headed straight for the calibration thingy. That's where I'm stuck now. That's where you fine peoples come in. I got to the part where the design shows up on the sign blank. Pretty sure it's a grid, with #'s & letters. Well, I hit CUT IT NOW. It starts cutting... then stops... and just sits there. Your thoughts?
  7. 2 points
    You should be peeling the wax paper backing off the decal. it makes a huge difference. Lay decal tape down, peel the backing off. No mention which vinyl or tape you are using,
  8. 2 points
    I refer you back to post 5 in this thread from sunday . . . .
  9. 2 points
    No problems with a desktop with 8 cores and 64gb ram either
  10. 2 points
    First things first --- identify those fonts (2 different ones). Do not ever vectorize text. Horrible results. Ask them for a higher-resolution copy, maybe if you're lucky get an .eps version!!!
  11. 2 points
    Hats are fickle. I mostly use my "kids" platen as I have stated before which is called the Allstar now. It's only 2-3/4" tall so the designs have to be no more than about 2-1/2" and I try to maintain more like 2" to 2-1/4" just for easier placement. The foam hats look like they have room for taller platen. The standard platen is 3-1/2" and that seems to be just a little too tall to allow the crown to settle down on most of the hats I sell or at least the smaller one is a LOT easier to get them to lay flat. The extra platens are pretty pricey and I think you have to go directly to the stahls website to get them. AND they aren't cheap. For me the secret is the smaller designs and choosing hats that fit my press better (and steering my customers to those styles of hat). Never tried a pillow on there and I don't see how it would be very productive to try and get it all stuffed in there and settled down. I just pre press them and then vigorously stretch the hat so it lays as flat as I can get it to the lower platen. Some edges tend to roll off and as long as your design doesn't lay over the edges that won't hurt anything. Having the print loaded hold down is really nice and I would hate to try and get a consistent job without it.
  12. 2 points
    I defer all hat questions to goose or those that do lots more than I ever did - I sold my hat press years ago. Juice wasn't worth the squeezing in my area
  13. 2 points
    I am not sure what takes the sublimation ink off a platen - you can try the easy off or even some rubbing alcohol first - if hotronix the platen is probably covered in a coating anyways but this is how we learn, there has to be a couple of missteps in the process. we all do it and continue to make mistakes even years later. forgetting to mirror htv will be the one that returns for years
  14. 2 points
    always, always use butcher paper or similar protective paper over the project. You are correct that the ink in gas form attached to your platen and causing that red ghosting. cheap roll of butcher paper (uncoated) from sams, costco etc last a LONG time and saves your press
  15. 2 points
    For the sublimation work I would make the print so that there was enough open area on each side and probably above the crown that the edges of the paper won't create a crease and the tape can be applied so it isn't even under the heat. Just a longer strip if that makes sense. It will waste a little sublimation paper but in that scenario that is what I would do. I never tried to sublimate a hat but other than the problem you are finding the sub job looks awesome. One thing I do on most of my hats is as soon as I put a pre-press to it for a few seconds I then lift the heat and work the hat to stretch it a little and make it conform to the platen a little better so it doesn't get the creases. I have never pressed on a foamy so they may not conform but most regular structured hats will.
  16. 2 points
    In my experience, if the cuts are too deep into the backing paper, the vinyl decals get 'stuck' (sorta fused onto the backing layer). However, you say this is not happening, so there's something else going on here.
  17. 2 points
    a free version that is very close is OPTIDiannaScriptBoldAgency (Bold *Oblique)
  18. 2 points
    Now with all that said I believe it is a white over purple Carla Pro (Regular *Oblique)
  19. 2 points
    That's an interesting question. When I had my P-Cut budget cutter it said to never leave the rollers up. When I got my High end cutter it said to never leave the rollers down. LOL. I just do what the cutter manual says. The reason the cheap cutter said to always lower them was to keep from compressing the springs for long periods and weakening them. The reason the high end machine says leave them up is because it will create flat spots on the pinch rollers and lead to tracking inaccuracy. Maybe the higher end machine has better quality springs, I have never had to replace the pinch rollers and I've now had this thing for 6 years. I try to keep my vinyl inside a plastic liner so I tend to remove it and store it. If it's some HTV that I am using pretty often I may leave it on the machine but not under the rollers. Each to his own.
  20. 1 point
    Just scanning through the manual, it appears the cutter is either connected through a parallel port or serial port. That would indicate that a special driver is not necessary and you should simply need a program that talks the correct language. That being said, the OS only would matter based on the software you want to use. Signblazer I believe will run just fine on windows 10. Assuming you have a PC with win 10 on it already I'd install SB and give it a try before bothering looking around for other computer options.
  21. 1 point
    I also had problems with it crashing with large files on my laptop but it's been smooth sailing on this i7 Desktop with 16 gigs of ram.
  22. 1 point
    VM 4.0 has an issue with SVG files, they don't always import correctly. It's best to export files from your design software as eps then import that to VM. The VM people are aware of the SVG issue and have been looking into it.
  23. 1 point
    Like others have said, autotrace is available in many programs, but it will often not get you all the way there. Redrawing becomes nessacary on many images. That said, a centerline trace might work better for at least the housing. Your image, outline trace, centerline trace, your 2nd image, outlines trace from CorelDraw 2019. I didn't spend much time on the settings.
  24. 1 point
    more room just means more junk!!! well does for me. I started doing vinyl at my wifes consignment store, something for me to b interested n for free labor working the store all day. we have a back office I started setting up as the vinyl room and a bay I lettered a few vehicles, but being here alone 80% I moved the cutter up front behind the counter with me, and now the office and back room has so much of customers crap back there I couldn't letter a bicycle back there.i moved the big cutter home in the spare room upstairs. and a 24" cutter in its place at the shop. Hmmmm! I guess I could now use both rooms upstairs since the step daughter moved out . wonder what the wife will think about taking out the daughters bedroom furn and moving n screen printing equipment.... lol. im sure we all kno the answer I will get to that 1.
  25. 1 point
    Tahoma Bold and Interstate Mono are both close. The shape is pretty common, the base which is longer on the left than the right is not. You could find a match for the upper part and add a base, or chop off part of the base on Tahoma or Interstate