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  1. 5 points
    Looking at your first picture, I believe you are cutting too deep and cutting into the backing paper. Reset your blade length as per MZ SKEETER'S instructions and reduce your pressure settings. You should barely be making an indentation on the backing paper with your blade.
  2. 4 points
    comments should be about the problem - not personality conflicts. if it continues the thread will be locked Dirt fisherman - keep in mind the people on here helping volunteer their time (many for several years) when it appears someone is not even trying to find answers themselves they do get frustrated and someone with 19 years of experience they might be expecting them to have a solid knowledge of basic functions - - Most of these people read EVERY post on here trying to help - so long winded replies calling everyone condescending puts people in a defensive mode instead of a helpful mode - lets keep the questions and answers condensed without getting personal.
  3. 3 points
    Yes, Dakota, that is how the 'Drop Shadow' function in Vm works. As far as not having the 2 layers over top of one another; Ungroup the 2 layers (grouped by Default when Created with the Drop Shadow Module) And Punch them out. (Not sure if the Cut Version has all these Features.
  4. 3 points
    The old timers here, are here to help. We do not know every program out there. we use what we use. Combined, we do know every program for design and cutting. In my opinion, grab a beer and click on help is a fantastic idea. There is more in that click than you can get waiting for help from the forum. In my humble opinion.
  5. 2 points
    Jenna Sue (Regular) Find my font best $50 you will ever spend
  6. 2 points
    Angie I saw that machine on CL and wondered if they got it sold. I am the mod mentioned and actually here in your area and run a newer Summa. That machine is pretty old but as long as it's been taken care of should be a good option especially at what you paid for it. I recommend trying out the free Signblazer if you're on a super tight budget and don't already have design skills. I run a mac and so use SignCut Pro in combination with Adobe Illustrator but both of those are paid programs.
  7. 2 points
    Call Support? Now why would I want to do a thing like that? Nooooo! That's entirely too easy. I would much rather crack a beer, have a seat, and bother the REAL people! Just wanted to update anyone following. I managed to get this rig running, finally. And I gotta tell ya... It helps so much TO INSTALL THE CORRECT CUTTER! That entire time... I had SC2 selected, NOT the Titan 2. After making the correct choice, the bells & whistles came alive. It was a Hallmark moment. No kidding. If any of you could have seen my behavior, prior to choosing wisely, you'd have grabbed popcorn & a fountain drink. Yeah... it was sad. Anyway... After a few test cuts, I noticed that the offset was too low (rounded, incomplete cuts). Of course, I headed straight for the calibration thingy. That's where I'm stuck now. That's where you fine peoples come in. I got to the part where the design shows up on the sign blank. Pretty sure it's a grid, with #'s & letters. Well, I hit CUT IT NOW. It starts cutting... then stops... and just sits there. Your thoughts?
  8. 2 points
    You should be peeling the wax paper backing off the decal. it makes a huge difference. Lay decal tape down, peel the backing off. No mention which vinyl or tape you are using,
  9. 2 points
    I refer you back to post 5 in this thread from sunday . . . .
  10. 2 points
    No problems with a desktop with 8 cores and 64gb ram either
  11. 2 points
    First things first --- identify those fonts (2 different ones). Do not ever vectorize text. Horrible results. Ask them for a higher-resolution copy, maybe if you're lucky get an .eps version!!!
  12. 2 points
    Hats are fickle. I mostly use my "kids" platen as I have stated before which is called the Allstar now. It's only 2-3/4" tall so the designs have to be no more than about 2-1/2" and I try to maintain more like 2" to 2-1/4" just for easier placement. The foam hats look like they have room for taller platen. The standard platen is 3-1/2" and that seems to be just a little too tall to allow the crown to settle down on most of the hats I sell or at least the smaller one is a LOT easier to get them to lay flat. The extra platens are pretty pricey and I think you have to go directly to the stahls website to get them. AND they aren't cheap. For me the secret is the smaller designs and choosing hats that fit my press better (and steering my customers to those styles of hat). Never tried a pillow on there and I don't see how it would be very productive to try and get it all stuffed in there and settled down. I just pre press them and then vigorously stretch the hat so it lays as flat as I can get it to the lower platen. Some edges tend to roll off and as long as your design doesn't lay over the edges that won't hurt anything. Having the print loaded hold down is really nice and I would hate to try and get a consistent job without it.
  13. 2 points
    I defer all hat questions to goose or those that do lots more than I ever did - I sold my hat press years ago. Juice wasn't worth the squeezing in my area
  14. 2 points
    I am not sure what takes the sublimation ink off a platen - you can try the easy off or even some rubbing alcohol first - if hotronix the platen is probably covered in a coating anyways but this is how we learn, there has to be a couple of missteps in the process. we all do it and continue to make mistakes even years later. forgetting to mirror htv will be the one that returns for years
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    I have the Summa D60 that I run with Flexisign. I have had the Summa for at least 10 years and have had only one problem. That was a power supply that went bad. it was probably my fault because I use to leave the power on for long periods of time. I did find a replacement power supply and it's been running great ever since. I have no experience with other programs but can imagine the cutter will run fine with something different and windows 10. That being said the Summa is a great vinyl cutter, they track very well and can cut very detailed designs. The title of this thread is D60 but in the original post you mention a T140. These are two different cutters. the t140 being tangential which is even better than the D60's drag knife design. Dakota gave you links to the Summa site for manuals and drivers. I hope this helps a little. you've got a great cutter.
  17. 1 point
    To add to this. When you click the Origin button, that is where your vinyl cutter starts to measure your design. When you click the ORIGIN button. Your cutter shows X 0 Y 0. That is the starting point. You should place your blade/ carriage head at the right lower corner of the vinyl. Click ORIGIN. That is when your cutter starts measuring the design that you send to to your vinyl cutter. ( The cutter may not start cutting there at that point. Most vinyl cutters start cutting at the point where the design was created. The cutter may advance on to the vinyl, but it will come back and finish the entire design. I make very large decals and my cutter may advance onto the vinyl 4 ft, before it starts cutting, but it will come back to the front of the vinyl and finish the whole design.) Make sure you have chosen the correct width and length orientation in your cutter software, so the vinyl cutter does not cut off of the vinyl or is too big for the vinyl. No reason to use WYSIWYG. You push the ORIGIN button before you send your design to the vinyl cutter.
  18. 1 point
    Thank you for updating your post, and letting us know how you resolved your issue. There will be a good chance that someone will need this information in the future. On a slight tangent, did you try to save your file as an .eps out of inkscape? I'm curious to know if VM would have done the same thing. I'm guessing it might have, since you seem to have isolated it to bend a node issue. (just can't help being curious though )
  19. 1 point
    Trace by hand, that is a pretty easy logo to do by hand. Bring the logo into your program and using the bezier tool to trace over the image.
  20. 1 point
    What those pictures show is not clear. Razor cutter? No. TrippLite adapter? ?? LPT port? No. Get back to us with better\corrected info, OK?
  21. 1 point
    Will damn Dakotagrafx just give me your home number you have all the info worked perfect. Thanks again!!
  22. 1 point
    Weld that area first - if using graphtec pro studio
  23. 1 point
    Thanks Wildgoose, I'm finding out alot real fast I thought it would Be like plug and play push the button and a decal is cut out it's not that easy sometimes. Thanks Jeff
  24. 1 point
    on the dog pictures do you have permission from HAMMER & STAIN ROCKVILLE to reproduce their work?
  25. 1 point
    did not work. but gave me an idea. i added nodes in inkscape before i exported it to vinylmaster. that did the trick. vinylmaster is very sensitive to little nodes obviously