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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/15/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Well, nobody seem to know a good answer for this and since I need to have it done by tomorrow morning, I decided just to try figuring it out myself. I did watch some YouTube videos but nobody covered the pallet seam issue. I think the main problem is that this pallet board has the edges of the boards beveled. If you flip it over the edges are not beveled and I wouldn't be having this problem. But it's too late now I pushed the vinyl down as best I could on the beveled seams, then did my basecoat, then topcoat. After it dried I peeled off the vinyl and there was some ugliness in the seams, so I got a toothpick and some gray basecoat paint and touched them up. It doesn't look perfect but it's pretty good still. I'll know not to use pallet boards with beveled seams anymore. Here's a finished pic;
  2. 4 points
    Any of you guys who run the lasers think you could cut with a laser? To klcjr - Magnets as mentioned are really hard to cut and hard on a fine tuned machine. Getting your cutter to cut accurately would be the very first thing you would need to do and you would want to start out by cutting some cheap sign vinyl which it's actually designed to cut. IF it's cutting regular vinyl at regular pressures ok but not the magnet then you will have an answer about whether your cutter has a problem or if it's related to the 30 mil issue. Assuming that it ALSO cuts out of dimensions then you will need to calibrate your cutter. Each cutting program goes about it a little different but they pretty much all have a way. If it's cutting sign vinyl at the correct size but not the magnet then you are probably not going to have success. The heavy magnetic material is likely more weight than your pinch rollers can keep hold of properly especially if you are dragging a knife blade through it. I have cut a few, and I stress FEW, like two times with my Summa. I did three passes at a regular pressure and it did ok. You also have a whole other part of the equation that you are probably not considering. You can't cut clear through any material without having some sort of carrier sheet. Vinyl and Heat Transfer Vinyl come on a carrier sheet. I seriously doubt your magnet does. I recommend if you keep trying and get it to cut satisfactory that you should leave just a little bit so the magnet is still one piece and then you can break it free. That's what I did on the couple that I cut. This will work for an occasional project but mass production is probably not all that viable. The big factories use a true die cutter and stamp cut them out I think. Very mass production.
  3. 4 points
  4. 3 points
    If you're willing to spend that kind of money. One word - Graphtec. But, whatever you decide, three words - Clean Cut Blades.
  5. 3 points
    If you wish to upgrade VinylMaster please click on this link: Save 50% by using this Coupon Code: VMUS5019RT https://uscutter.estore.software/cart/
  6. 3 points
    I still do the cut vinyl but on the print side it has changed so much - you can get printing done for 1/3 of what we got almost 7 years ago - too many printers out there and within that group there are about 3 main types of providers - first those that actually maintain their printers to top level performance and replace heads when nozzles start to misfire or block second those large scale operations that order pallets of media and ink and keep the machines running day and night Third - those that think it is a cool idea and buy the printer with onhand money (popular at tax refund time) - these do not take into consideration the maint, and run them until they need to buy replacement parts and bail . . . their product is always sold as "good enough" now there are some others in between but I was always in the first category and budgeted $1500 per year for maint parts and figured a new head in the mix every year or two - with longer trips now we will leave for 3 weeks at a time and you can plan on solvent heads deflecting or some clogging even with auto cleanings when it is not in constant production. with the lower prices people pay now and the level I prefer to keep my equipment at it was a no brainer to leave the printing part of the business - Too many people get into the print end because it is "easier" or sexy to have printed decals - and too many don't look at which way is actually better to produce the product once they have one - the past 2 years my cut vinyl had actually taken back over 60 percent of what I do because it was the better choice for the product. I see a lot of people make the huge investment for the printers based on an emotional drive - and don't really look at the long term economics - I have also see so many that buy a printer or open a storefront and work way too many hours just to break even with where they are sitting at home - if you are working 30 hours a week to pay for rent and equipment upkeep and depreciation how much are you really making in the end. last 2 years we did 2 different transatlantic cruises - now I have no worries about the printer while gone, maint and without the extra expenses I can gross less and net more income . . . .
  7. 3 points
    As weird as this sounds - sometimes I need the reflective to be temporary. If anyone has tried to peel off reflective, then they should know that it comes off in small pieces and is a total pain to remove. So when a temporary application is needed, I will often pre-layer the reflective on some 651 (whatever color I have the most inventory in), and then run it through the cutter, doing two passes. The end result is a pretty thick decal, but removing it is a breeze. Ditto on the Clean Cut Blade!
  8. 3 points
    You'll have to go a little heavier on the force. It will be a trial and error kind of thing. I have an original LP, and my usual pressure for colored 651 is about 88, for the reflective, I slow it down a little (from 60 to 40), and increase the pressure to 94. I haven't tried cutting reflective on my Graphtec yet, but I would probably do the same thing. Good luck. Let us know what works for you.
  9. 3 points
    I have been reading along and don't have any personal experience to offer. BUT, you have been given a bounty of excellent advice from helpful experienced people... to help you in using your machine to the extent of its advertised limits. You should be thankful for their invaluable FREE advice. Good luck with your project...let us all know how it works out for you...we do care! Sue2
  10. 3 points
    I wonder if taking the cutter off the stand and putting it on a table. and feeding the material in that way would help for this situation. Material flat behind the cutter. Cut off an X amount length. It's obvious the amount of 7 ft is too heavy for the machine. If you keep getting errors.
  11. 3 points
    Here's what I use. RTape Conform Series 4076-RLA It's a high tack paper transfer paper.
  12. 3 points
    I think it looks awesome. Thank you for sharing your process!
  13. 3 points
    And Another....... This is a custom Garage sign.
  14. 3 points
    If it's ripping the backing paper I would guess you are cutting too deep. Follow Mz Skeeter's instructions for setting the blade depth, posted a few hundred times here, then if you're still having issues it's likely a process problem.
  15. 3 points
    the procut 1351 is hardly a pro cutter - it is a Refine which is the bottom of the barrel plotter - personally if I was looking for accurate cuts on tint I would look hard for a graphtec or roland with a servo motor. the plotter is not a good place to pinch pennies since it is the heart of your operation
  16. 2 points
    Banner tape seems the stickiest. It is sold by USCutter.
  17. 2 points
    You pretty much have to pay thousands and thousands of dollars to get licenses from big names like Fox, or we would all be doing it. Plus you have to guarantee that you can sell x amount of decals I mean $$$$$$ this kind of money, Most of these companies already have sold licenses to big graphics companies and they are printed decals. It is done as mass production. They have contracts already with manufactures. All decals would also have to be done to say FOX specs. Everything approved by FOX. Not just some off the wall decal you want to do. I am talking like $50,000 plus to get a license.
  18. 2 points
    US Cutter sells several mat finished options in the 970RA wrap vinyl. https://www.uscutter.com/ORACAL-970RA-Wrapping-Cast-with-Rapid-Air-Technology-60in-Wide
  19. 2 points
    Wait........... 2-10 cars a month. Why are you even bothering getting a plotter. For that volume of cars you should be keeping it old school and just cut by hand. It makes way better business sense to do that. There's a reason tint plotters cost so much. It's for high volume shops that need to knock cars out fast because they have 15-20 cars a day to do. It's going to take you 1-2 years to pay off, and it's a used plotter of all things. I've helped run my brother's window tint shop and after 25 years of window tinting he's still cutting by hand because it makes a much better install. Tighter edges, more tucked into the window jam, and the rear windows come out better. When you shrink the rear window it's alittle unpredictable and if it's already cut you're likely to shrink it too much in the wrong areas and have to start over. Yea it's "cool" to have a plotter but a complete waste for 2-10 cars a month.
  20. 2 points
    I don't see why you would need pre feed with sheets.
  21. 2 points
    Let me first start off by thanking you for teaching our youth. I think you probably need to look into a laser cutter. Product packaging is designed , printed and cut out in mass quantities. They are cut out using die cutters which stamp out hundreds in a short period of time. With the kids, they will only be doing a few of each design. The laser cutter will work great for that purpose. Then you can put in a request for a flatbed printer to print on the cardboard stock. lol With a vinyl cutter there is software that is specific to vinyl cutting. With a laser cutter, the students can learn cad and cam software and also running G code. With this knowledge, it could lead to other careers such as CNC or architecture if a student so chooses. Autodesk has a program called Fusion 360 which I believe is free to students. However I'm sorry to say, I can't recommend any brand of laser cutters.
  22. 2 points
    This is a user to user forum, no one here can help with that. You will have to contact UScutter. Monday. It could be your power supply. If your not getting any power at all. Does anything turn on when you plug it in and turn it on? https://www.uscutter.com/USCutter-TITAN-Power-Supply
  23. 2 points
    I do a little bit of work with pallets and usually just rip down the edges to get ride of that seam. What I do is paint the base coat again over the stencil very lightly and then 3 very light top costs. But I think the point of the pallet boards is to get something more rustic and not perfect.
  24. 2 points
    Keep in mind everyone on this USER FORUM are volunteering to be here including the Mods - just users with lots of real world experience and not employees. Most of us have been here thru employee changes every few years (usually 2-3) Redmond/seattle is in the middle of microsoft, att, boeing, amazon etc - so employees get a little seat time and move up to bigger companies regularly from our observation. none of us have a job to protect or a vested interest - just a love for what we do and helping others.
  25. 2 points
    No, but it doesn't have a specific area to keep the roller out of and it's right in the middle where you would think would be a good spot for a roller. Either do not use the middle roller, or be sure it is actually over the grit roller and not in the "dead zone".