Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/27/2020 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    3 things is how do you plan to differentiate yourself from the hundreds of other people doing the same thing? have you researched problems with vinyl adhering to things like rough surfaces, easy clean paints and how do you plan to deal with those issues? do you plan on using non trademarked material to avoid legal issues? just observations from watching many many others go down that same road before you
  2. 3 points
    You must first set the blade depth correctly. There is too much misinformation about using a credit card to set the blade depth and this is incorrect. That is way too much blade exposed. This is the correct way to set the blade depth. For any vinyl that you are going to cut. This works. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should just barely see and feel your blade tip out of the blade holder.
  3. 3 points
    LOL this is a user forum not Tinder folks
  4. 3 points
    If you're worried about inventory for making shirts, most hobby stores carry a good selection of HTV. Naturally it's more expensive than buying in bulk from USCutter but it's a nice backup if you need something in a pinch. Hobby Lobby also carries a nice selection of t-shirts for about $3 each. Again, you can get shirts cheaper in bulk from other places but from small runs 15 to 20 it's hard to beat the ease and convenience.
  5. 3 points
    Blade longevity will be dependent on usage - high quantity, and type of material (ie. regular vinyl vs. reflective or material that is hard on blades). Clean Cut Blades have a pretty good life span. I'm just a hobbyist, and installed a 60* Clean Cut on my original LaserPoint machine over 10+ years ago. It's still in the cutter, and works like a champ! I also have a 60* in my Graphtec, which is going on 2+ years, and that one is still ridiculously sharp. As long as you don't abuse them, and have the blade depth and force dialed in right, you can maximize the life of your blade. App tape can last a while, depending on storage conditions. Same with vinyl. If you're looking at doing some quotes on walls and stuff, think about the height that you think the majority will be. If you think it will be taller than 14", then by all means, get the bigger app tape, but if you think it won't or rarely will, you can probably stick with the 14" tape and overlap when needed. Once app tape is pulled, any excess doesn't always re-roll nicely for me, so I try to use the tape that's the most appropriate size wise. You can find cheap dental picks on Amazon. The important tool that you can have, and it's totally free, is patience. Patience when a cut doesn't go right, patience when taping up a job, patience when installing.
  6. 3 points
    CleanCut Blades. I prefer the 60*, but you might want to get a 45* blade as well. I would forgo the rapid weeding kit, and just source a very sharp tweezer, dental pic, or x-acto to weed with. You will find that there will be one that you're going to want to use all the time. If budget allows, get yourself a rotary cutter, and you'll need to get yourself a squeegee too. I also favor either an aluminum 24" ruler or a fiskar quilt ruler, because it has tons of marks on it for easy alignment.
  7. 3 points
  8. 3 points
    If you wanted all that. you should have stepped right up to a Graphtec FC. It has a groove and special blade for cross cutting vinyl right off. But with your cutter, you will scratch, cut and gouge your teflon cutting strip doing that. Then you will create more problems for yourself with bad cuts. Like Arty said. Letter opener. scissors, , something that won't damage.
  9. 3 points
    I've been using a plastic letter opener to slice my vinyl off the cutter.
  10. 3 points
    Have you already bought the MH cutter? We usually try to get people to consider a step up to the SC. The MH have more issues being the rock bottom of the barrel.
  11. 3 points
    If that's a "font" then the creator of it should be shot.
  12. 3 points
    QUOTE> "My fonts (text) are cutting three times, ~almost~ every letter. I do I fix this and clean it up." Odd that it's 'ALMOST' every letter... Are you trying to (Auto) Vector Existing Letters or Create them from Scratch? (ALWAYS better, if possible, to Create New Text & Avoid Vectoring Existing Text) AND> "It does have multiples copies stacked on some but can't get them off. I tried to ungroup and all it says is to group." Perhaps you can Group them then Weld them to Create a Single Cut Line ?
  13. 2 points
    If bought from ebay so not Xerox they are £49.00 for a set of 4. With a black page yield of 5500 and colour 2400. You do get a set of toners with the printer but half the size yields.
  14. 2 points
    And when it is recognized, it will show up as a comm port, not a printer.
  15. 2 points
    I think it not a bad idea to have a cutter capable of 30" material. I regularly run across town to the local sigh supply shops and pick up a yard of this or that color premium cast vinyl for one off quick jobs and about 1 in 5 times they are out of stock except in 30" and it's nice to be able to say fine with me and grab it. You could obviously cut 6" off and feed it through your regular machine but there are also those times when the design is just a bit bigger than the 24 material and 30 keeps you from having to tile it. Well worth it at that point. I agree with haumana on the app tape. I have overlapped it occasionally. Doesn't look great to a client but functionally fine. Sometimes you can get small bubbles along the seam during the application but they are usually localized to that seam in the app tape.
  16. 2 points
    How are you setting blade depth?
  17. 2 points
    24" anything (vinyl or app tape) is way more cumbersome for me to work with. I also do not have the amount of open table space to spread stuff out
  18. 2 points
    You mention a lot of things that you adjusted, but did you set your blade depth correctly? Too many incorrect instructions out there.. This is the correct way to set your blade depth and it applies to the Titan 2 also. It applies to any vinyl cutter. The blade depth has to be correct first, or the blade offset and force will not be correct. The Titan will come with software also. VinylMaster was made for professional sign makers. Maybe an upgrade to a higher version would work for you, if you are doing this as a business. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should just barely see and feel your blade tip out of the blade holder.
  19. 2 points
    His picture is showing a UScutter SC model. (no longer sold new here, But SC2 is) and he is using a cutting mat. 185 grams force. From his post above, He used a 60 degree blade. You can zoom his cutter picture up pretty good. You can even read the cutter display good.
  20. 2 points
    USB had no error. Keyspan always had error. But it's ok... I FIGURED IT OUT!!! Short answer: The USB Printer Support Driver was too new. I had to force install an older driver. Driver Version: 6.1.7600.16385 works. I found it here: https://www.driverscape.com/download/usb-printing-support (https://www.driverscape.com/files/inbox/win764/usbprint.inf_amd64_neutral_54948be2bc4bcdd1.zip) Long answer: I happened to have an old drive that still had my old Win7 Install on it. Booted from that. Cutter worked. Went through the settings. Noted the driver version for the USB Printer Support. Rebooted into 10. Checked settings, Win10 Driver was different (newer probably). Found Win7 driver. Win10 didn't want to install it. Reboot with driver signature disabled. Forced the Win7 Driver down this MF's throat. Tested it. It works. It F-in' works... Again, Skeeter and slice&dice, I sincerely appreciate you guys popping in here and spending time helping people out. Digging through all this mess, your names kept coming up again and again. The world needs more people like you.
  21. 2 points
  22. 2 points
    Yup... Adding an inner stroke to Dimitri in Photoshop gets you pretty close to the example;
  23. 2 points
    It's a bad trace. You'll be way more time ahead to just recreate. It's simple text with a rectangle.
  24. 2 points
    We shoot a lot around here and I shoot/carry my Glock whenever I can. I thought the dart board needed something and came up with this. The pistol is from a font that I modified and the darts I made from scratch. Wife says the bulls eye should be red but I think I might change it to the Glock Safe Pistol Logo..... Pic is not great!
  25. 2 points
    California Plug (with a Gradient Fill & Outline)