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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/23/2020 in all areas

  1. 5 points
  2. 5 points
  3. 4 points
    I would keep the name at the rear on both sides. The same with the phone numbers.
  4. 3 points
    You could download a trial of the version you would like to try, and see if it is worth it to you.
  5. 2 points
    search for setting blade depth. It's been posted hundreds of times on here. When vinyl is lifting, you have too much blade exposed. Slow the cutter down.
  6. 2 points
    Make sure that the pinch rollers are over the grit rollers on the bottom. Never be pulling from a roll while cutting. Always have enough vinyl prefed and free. Other than that you don't give enough info of what you are doing. Or showing how you have the vinyl in the vinyl cutter. Put pinch rollers equal distance from the vinyl edge.
  7. 2 points
    it's hard to tell for sure from that wireframe view, but it looks like you'll want to weld all the black as well. Two separate welds of course. Select all pink, weld it, select all back weld it, then cut by color.
  8. 2 points
    you need to isolate the all the pink and weld (combine) it together. you can check if you successfully got it welded it by checking the wireframe/nodes. then cut by color.
  9. 2 points
    I linked to the moment she talks about using a plotter but the whole story and what she does with paper is amazing.
  10. 2 points
    An update: Scratch from the record it being a grit roller. The "tails" issues ended up following the designs regardless of where I loaded material. I tried a new blade holder at one point and the issue got better, but was still present and intermittent. That's when I packed my blade holder with grease. For better or for worse, that's been my solution, and it's working like a charm. I packed my original holder first, and it began working better than my new holder. Satisfied that I hadn't ruined anything, I packed my new blade holder, and it's working perfectly so far. As far as I can tell, for what ever reason, my blades are wobbling in the holder. I've tried USCutter blades, and the Roland variety from Amazon. I don't know what other brands to try, but neither of those helped the issue. I used marine grease because it has much more "slip" than wheel bearing grease. Petroluem Jelly may be similar and work just as well. I figured I'd update the thread with this info. I can't say it's the RIGHT way of fixing the problem, but it is working.
  11. 2 points
    And just a point of clarification, die cutting is done with custom made dies which are stamped onto the media and cut it, kind of like a cookie cutter cutting through dough.
  12. 2 points
    tiny anything, especially text - slow the speed of the cutter, and get yourself a 60* blade if you're not using one right now.
  13. 2 points
    That's pretty small text and even with everything set perfect your cutter may still have a hard time. Just so you know. Getting the blade depth correctly will go a long way though to getting the cut to come out clean.
  14. 1 point
    Hello, has anyone had success using their cutter when they are connected to a 3.0 or 3.1 type "C" port on a newer Mac. I have tested with a few models and if the communication does happen to work, it always ends up with the dreaded diagonal lines or stops mid cut. Is anyone successfully running their "value" or any model cutter for that matter connected to a Type "C" port? Currently I am testing a US Cutter Laserpoint 1 which worked great on an older Mac with 2.0 ports. It is connected with the supplied USB cable and a USB-C to USB apple adapter. This model uses FTDI drivers and they state there are known issues when connecting to 3.0 ports. https://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Documents/TechnicalNotes/TN_152_USB_3.0_Compatibility_Issues_Explained.pdf I have also tested with the serial cable and a FTDI USB adapter with the same results using Sure cuts a lot, SignCut pro 1 and pro 2, as well as Easy Cut studio. Any feedback or information is greatly appreciated!
  15. 1 point
    You can do it in Signblazer. Manipulate-Expand/Outline/Inline. The help menu will show you how to use it.
  16. 1 point
    having the pinch rollers jerk the vinyl off of a roll because there wasn't sufficient slack is not a good thing.
  17. 1 point
    I played around with it and welded the outline to the heart. That gave me the heart and the letters outside of it. I added the text and outline again and tweaked here and there and it printed perfectly. Being able to do something like this without pulling whats left of my hair out goes a long way. Thanks again for your help.
  18. 1 point
    Some programs the trace image is on top of the original and if the original has a white background you can easily select it rather than the trace. Try selecting the image and then move it to see if there is a copy there as well. If that doesn't work, let us know what software you're using and that'll get us started in pointing you in the right direction.
  19. 1 point
    Also found one in SignBlazer that is pretty close but still not quite right.
  20. 1 point
    You state blade is set correctly. But you don't state how you set the blade depth. So how do you know it is set correctly? Do not use any instructions that have to do with thickness of a credit card or post it notes. Blade must be set correctly before adjusting anything else. You only cut with the very tip of the blade. Most vinyl is only 2-3 mil. Also start with 0.25 mm for blade offset adjust 0.05 plus or minus to get good results. Make sure blade is spinning freely, Add a drop or 2 of light oil in the blade holder. You must make sure that the cut of the TEST feature on you cutter is good first, before cutting designs. Make sure there are not gouges or scratches in your cutting strip. This is correct way to set your blade depth. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and in your hand, firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should just barely see and feel your blade tip out of the blade holder.
  21. 1 point
    small or large - I use paper tape too - 4075rla or 4076rla are my goto tapes - clear is for the hobbiest that sell at swap meets as it will not conform to a compound curve like many back windows
  22. 1 point
    Ok, I downloaded your PDF and opened it with Inkscape and it is an actual vector file although it's all grouped. If look at it wireframe mode there is a green box around it, not exactly sure what that is. But if you ungroup it 4 times you'll get down to individual objects and the green box will disappear. At this point you should be able to save the file as a vector file of your choice, EPS would be the common one, and then import it into your cutting program. 1st floor.eps
  23. 1 point
    Thank you for taking the time to respond. I will try that and pray it works. I didn’t have the blade holder under the rim. It is cutting and I’m not having any problems with my cutter. Thank you both. I appreciate y’all taking time out of your day to respond to my issues. Take care!
  24. 1 point
    Great, glad you got it and remember that blade offset on a Graphtec is ZERO. Your cuts look much better after you adjusted the blade depth.
  25. 1 point
    Ron, I know this was not the main point of your question but along the same lines if you have ANY input in the designs that you are working on try to steer them to things you can actually build easy. For instance you may design some gnarly American flag skull that looks totally awesome until you actually try to produce it for the client on a sign or tee short. Whoops... I try real hard to show options that can be done with simple 1, 2 or 3 color work. If my clients ask about the more complicated stuff I will go there but I always give them the run-down that if it's got shadows and gradients and all the bells and whistles then it will be printed work and will ALWAYS be printed work costing them much more in the long run. Practically all the truly big names in any industry have a fairly simple logo. Striking and unforgettable for long term brand recognition yes, but usually not complicated. Years later when they have a lot of money they can use that base concept and expand on it if they feel the need for a face lift. An example in my area is a lawn company that has a sweet looking vehicle wrap with grass growing up along the bottom of the car and a picture of an actual lawn mower doing it's thing. It's really a work of art. Try putting that on a tee shirt. So when they DO decide to do a tee shirt what do they do now? Come up with something else entirely? And how does that new look coincide and support the vehicle and the "Brand" they have been busy trying to establish? You won't win all the arguments (and don't argue with your client but you know that) but you can really help yourself out sometimes. Even simple things like showing a flag that the stars are each out in the open and the weed just peels off them vs one that the stars all sit in a rectangle and have to be individually plucked out costing you a lot more labor. I never even show them the solid one so it doesn't get in their head. If they pull out a screen shot off the internet and want something similar I at least TRY to get them to go the simpler way but you can't always get what you want or so the song goes.