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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/23/2020 in all areas

  1. 5 points
  2. 5 points
  3. 4 points
    I would keep the name at the rear on both sides. The same with the phone numbers.
  4. 3 points
    You could download a trial of the version you would like to try, and see if it is worth it to you.
  5. 2 points
    Make sure that the pinch rollers are over the grit rollers on the bottom. Never be pulling from a roll while cutting. Always have enough vinyl prefed and free. Other than that you don't give enough info of what you are doing. Or showing how you have the vinyl in the vinyl cutter. Put pinch rollers equal distance from the vinyl edge.
  6. 2 points
    it's hard to tell for sure from that wireframe view, but it looks like you'll want to weld all the black as well. Two separate welds of course. Select all pink, weld it, select all back weld it, then cut by color.
  7. 2 points
    you need to isolate the all the pink and weld (combine) it together. you can check if you successfully got it welded it by checking the wireframe/nodes. then cut by color.
  8. 2 points
    I linked to the moment she talks about using a plotter but the whole story and what she does with paper is amazing.
  9. 2 points
    An update: Scratch from the record it being a grit roller. The "tails" issues ended up following the designs regardless of where I loaded material. I tried a new blade holder at one point and the issue got better, but was still present and intermittent. That's when I packed my blade holder with grease. For better or for worse, that's been my solution, and it's working like a charm. I packed my original holder first, and it began working better than my new holder. Satisfied that I hadn't ruined anything, I packed my new blade holder, and it's working perfectly so far. As far as I can tell, for what ever reason, my blades are wobbling in the holder. I've tried USCutter blades, and the Roland variety from Amazon. I don't know what other brands to try, but neither of those helped the issue. I used marine grease because it has much more "slip" than wheel bearing grease. Petroluem Jelly may be similar and work just as well. I figured I'd update the thread with this info. I can't say it's the RIGHT way of fixing the problem, but it is working.
  10. 2 points
    And just a point of clarification, die cutting is done with custom made dies which are stamped onto the media and cut it, kind of like a cookie cutter cutting through dough.
  11. 2 points
    tiny anything, especially text - slow the speed of the cutter, and get yourself a 60* blade if you're not using one right now.
  12. 2 points
    That's pretty small text and even with everything set perfect your cutter may still have a hard time. Just so you know. Getting the blade depth correctly will go a long way though to getting the cut to come out clean.
  13. 1 point
    I think I see the shadow he's talking about, and I think that is actually what it is, a shadow resulting from the compound curve of the door, don't believe it's vinyl.
  14. 1 point
    You can do it in Signblazer. Manipulate-Expand/Outline/Inline. The help menu will show you how to use it.
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    I had never seen this before. So I watched a video. They are applying the sub design first, to the shirt, then spraying them with bleach to get the effect. https://www.google.com/search?q=can+you+sublimate+bleached+shirts&oq=can+you+sublimate+bleached+shirts&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l2.18012j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_e7xPX8qqAsyWsAWporLgBw23
  17. 1 point
    Some programs the trace image is on top of the original and if the original has a white background you can easily select it rather than the trace. Try selecting the image and then move it to see if there is a copy there as well. If that doesn't work, let us know what software you're using and that'll get us started in pointing you in the right direction.
  18. 1 point
    Also found one in SignBlazer that is pretty close but still not quite right.
  19. 1 point
    If running on USB, value cutters have a better connection on a serial cable or a Tripp-Lite Keyspan Adapter with the null modem cable that came with the cutter. That is the brand name Tripp-Lite Keyspan Adapter. Your welcome
  20. 1 point
    if you ever try cleancut blades - make sure to start with too little blade - fine grained carbide stays sharp longer but is brittle and can break in turns when digging into a cutting strip - if chinese blade it isn't a problem as they are not as hard
  21. 1 point
    I hope that you no longer feel "Buyers Remorse" . Graphtecs are great machines, and do take some learning, But they are pretty much set it and forget it. If using Windows. You might really like the Graphtec Cutting Controller, Just change settings from your computer. You don't even mess with most buttons on the vinyl cutter it's self. I cut mostly sign vinyl and rarely change any settings.
  22. 1 point
    also make sure the ridge on the blade holder is UNDER the tab meant to hold the blade holder in place and not on top like your old uscutter me series. Otherwise the blade holder can just ride up and not touch
  23. 1 point
    If the blade holder arm is not going up and down, you may have fried the z-chip. There is a 9 volt battery test for that.
  24. 1 point
    Ron, I know this was not the main point of your question but along the same lines if you have ANY input in the designs that you are working on try to steer them to things you can actually build easy. For instance you may design some gnarly American flag skull that looks totally awesome until you actually try to produce it for the client on a sign or tee short. Whoops... I try real hard to show options that can be done with simple 1, 2 or 3 color work. If my clients ask about the more complicated stuff I will go there but I always give them the run-down that if it's got shadows and gradients and all the bells and whistles then it will be printed work and will ALWAYS be printed work costing them much more in the long run. Practically all the truly big names in any industry have a fairly simple logo. Striking and unforgettable for long term brand recognition yes, but usually not complicated. Years later when they have a lot of money they can use that base concept and expand on it if they feel the need for a face lift. An example in my area is a lawn company that has a sweet looking vehicle wrap with grass growing up along the bottom of the car and a picture of an actual lawn mower doing it's thing. It's really a work of art. Try putting that on a tee shirt. So when they DO decide to do a tee shirt what do they do now? Come up with something else entirely? And how does that new look coincide and support the vehicle and the "Brand" they have been busy trying to establish? You won't win all the arguments (and don't argue with your client but you know that) but you can really help yourself out sometimes. Even simple things like showing a flag that the stars are each out in the open and the weed just peels off them vs one that the stars all sit in a rectangle and have to be individually plucked out costing you a lot more labor. I never even show them the solid one so it doesn't get in their head. If they pull out a screen shot off the internet and want something similar I at least TRY to get them to go the simpler way but you can't always get what you want or so the song goes.
  25. 1 point
    Might need some work. mark-s COUGAR LOGO.ai