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  1. 4 points
    Jet aircraft are quieter than MH's. lol
  2. 3 points
    Truth in advertising, that is certainly a big squeegee!
  3. 3 points
    haven't used anything from that particular printer but if the ink is dry it shouldn't smear - - - for 18x24 yard signs I always used my felt covered big squeegee - made by . . . .big squeegee. I printed them slightly oversized and later learned to add registration tic marks in 2 of the corners to speed the process. I would start in the middle and when I peeled the backing off just cut it straight and apply the first 1/2 - then turn it around and repeat. it is helpful to use the overlap art of the vinyl to adhere it to my cutting mat so it didn't slide.
  4. 3 points
    6 Years after the post this solved my issue !
  5. 3 points
    It wasn't just you, it had expired, I have just updated the link in the other thread, and I'll link it again here in case anyone else finds this thread. Here is the link to the newest version of Sure Cuts A Lot 4 Pro for Mac.
  6. 2 points
    Your cutter probably has a sensor for the pinch roller. Those that do will stop cutting when it gets too close. There will be a setting somewhere in there that lets you ignore this. If you do switch it off and don't pay attention then you can accidentally track off the vinyl and ruin your blade or worse. If your cutter doesn't have that feature then check that the vinyl width that Sign Blazer thinks you have is correct. If you say there is only 12 inches when there is really 15 then it will think it's at the edge when it's not. The cutter has no way of knowing where the edge is (unless your GCC has the above mentioned sensor to find the outside rollers) USCutter doesn't sell the GCC so I doubt any of us have any practical knowledge about your actual machine.
  7. 2 points
    The dotted line is a background layer - did you create this in another program like illy? - just delete that layer if you join the forum your post will be instantly available for all members to answer - as a guest you have to wait until a moderator approves your post. This is part of an ongoing effort to reduce our spam problem.
  8. 2 points
    If you are ordering some vinyl get a yard of 751 or even 951 and try it. That stuff is super smooth and might be easier to weed. I usually use high end cast vinyl when I do teeny tiny. 1/8" aren't much fun on any cutter let alone a budget model.
  9. 2 points
    I do love the Port and Company.
  10. 2 points
    As a side note, if you have your other cutters blade depth at a credit card thickness, you will want to fix them with my instructions, that is way too much blade exposed. You should barely see and feel the blade tip, You only cut with the very tip of the blade. And start your blade offset at around 0.25mm and work in small changes to get the offset correct.
  11. 2 points
    I use a 30" cutter and I would never want one any wider....I have a 30" 8ft table and it works perfect for masking. I only cut vinyl. A lot of my jobs are pretty detailed and the Graphtec does a great job for that.
  12. 2 points
    teeny-tiny lettering is best done with a 60* blade. Get yourself a Clean Cut Blade, I promise you won't be sorry - and it will last a really long time (with proper use and maintenance). I know you said that you fiddled with the speed an pressure, but something that small, make sure you slow the cut speed down. I'm not sure how much you slowed it down, but when I had to cut really small and/or intricate stuff on my LaserPoint (which is also a stepper motor), I would slow the machine down to 20 (when I normally cut at 60+). patience is hard to come by, but is required to try and dial your machine in for certain jobs. when you do get it dialed in, make sure you write down the settings as a reference for the next time. good luck, keep us updated.
  13. 1 point
    Looking at how the blade is staring the cuts I am betting you have way way too much blade exposure, which in turn will make your offset different. Have that made sure your carriage is on the tracks? How large are these letters? Have you tried other cutting software? What is your os win or Mac? What speed? Force? How did you set your blade depth, give us something to go on other than you are frustrated after not seeking help on the forum for 2 years where many experienced users are around to help. edited. See where in 2016 you did ask one question but never followed up to any of the questions or suggestions.
  14. 1 point
    My Titan 3 is a good cutter too. Quieter than my MH721.
  15. 1 point
    Thanks guys. That’s great info for me. I’m just getting going and I want to buy the right equipment so I can grow with it. I had wondered about what you said Dakota about breaking up larger jobs in segments. I have been leaning towards the graphtec. There seems to be a lot of instructional videos out there which I will need. I fairly new to this so there is a big learning curve ahead. So a user friendly machine is important. Hopefully I can turn it into some decent income. Thanks again guys you info is greatly appreciated.
  16. 1 point
    Not familiar with that brand of transfer. It is possible that it's a little thin and doesn't get good coverage on darks. Commercial grade transfers do exist. For dark transfers I usually recommend Neenah 3G Jet Opaque and for white shirts Jet Pro Soft Stretch (JPSS). If you intend to do shirts to sell (or even a lot for how use)I would recommend investing in a heat press. There is no comparison between a bonafide heat press and trying to get consistency with a hand iron. I know that several transfers and even some cut vinyl are advertised to be able to hand iron but the difference is the applied product and it's subsequent lifespan is remarkable.
  17. 1 point
    From what I read you need a plug in to do that. Go to the Summa web site and download it. mark-s
  18. 1 point
    Wildgoose, back in the 1990's I first used a computer (yeah, an Apple macintosh, Performa) -- in order to understand the ins-and-outs of working with computers, David Pogue was my mentor (through his book, Macs for Dummies). One thing that would crop up from time to time was a fatal (BOMB!) error, and Pogue described this as being likely caused by corrupted font suitcases. Solution? -- try https://www.macissues.com/2014/04/18/how-to-troubleshoot-font-problems-in-os-x (I have seen some reports online of the default font San Francisco being the root cause, for some arcane technical reason).
  19. 1 point
    Any kind of subscription kills me. I'm limping all my machines along with CS3 on the PCs and CS5 on the Macs. I'm doing my best not to upgrade anything unless something breaks and I have no choice. The (no legacy software) cost me an arm and leg back in the day, and they still work just fine, so I'm doing what I can to keep them running. I know it's a learning curve, but Corel sells straight up licenses for their software.
  20. 1 point
    We try Though, I do encourage you to become a member. Then your post will go up immediately. Not to mention that it's totally free, and we don't run ads, or push any hidden agendas, products or services.
  21. 1 point
    No mention of which tape you are using. You should squeegee the transfer tape real well on top. But tape face down and peel the backing away from the decal. It makes a huge difference. Never lift the decal from the backing. I only use Main Medium tack paper tape. Many of my decals are very detailed also.
  22. 1 point
    Only cutter that can do that is the Graphtecs FC series. . They have a built in groove that allows the cross cutter or the blade to cut thru. The teflon cutting strip would not be touched. You would not have a teflon cutting strip left, if you tried to do it with a regular vinyl cutter. Plus the blades would be shot real soon. Regular vinyl cutters are not made to cut all the way thru, vinyl etc. Some people use a carrier sheet to cut vinyl all the way thru, but that would be done all manual. Each piece at a time.
  23. 1 point
    Love this idea! Grizzly Tools has them here in the US for $27 and has 12 bars. I think you can order additional bars, but my internet connection sucks right now. http://www.grizzly.com/products/Lumber-Rack-6-Shelf-System/T27630
  24. 1 point
    these should only really take about 2-3 minutes to produce on your own. take a look at this eps and see if it does the trick 4wheeldrivejeep.EPS
  25. 1 point
    I think that you have to know the measurement of the real size vechicle first. I use Coraldraw X4 and what I did was take a picture of my own car and mark on the door a square, which I measured and took a note of the size. I then opened up Coraldraw and made a square which measured the same size as the one I made on my car. I then inported the picture of my car and placed the square that I drew (Which is a known size) and placed it over the picture of the car. Then enlarge the car picture so that the square that you drew is matching the one that was on the car for the first measurement. Therefore from now on if you ever placed a decal desgin on that picture you will see how it will look and you will know how big it is as coraldraw always shows both the size of the image/page that you are working on and also the size of the clipart. I hope that I have explaned myself ok to you but writing is not my strong point I would rather show someone how to do it. Hope it helps, Fred