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  1. 5 points
    Looking at your first picture, I believe you are cutting too deep and cutting into the backing paper. Reset your blade length as per MZ SKEETER'S instructions and reduce your pressure settings. You should barely be making an indentation on the backing paper with your blade.
  2. 4 points
    Thanks for all the replies, I have read every one of them. I mostly do smaller graphics, nothing more than 12 inches or so high and 2-5 feet long. I was considering the 15 inch since it would be plenty for me, but, after reading the replies I think I will hold out for the Graphtec 24 inch, thank you all for your input!! I have learned a lot using the Vinyl Express cutter, but it is time to upgrade!!
  3. 4 points
    titan 2 or 3 is a good machine, but you get a whole lot more for just few hundred more. so a 3rd for graphtec
  4. 4 points
    comments should be about the problem - not personality conflicts. if it continues the thread will be locked Dirt fisherman - keep in mind the people on here helping volunteer their time (many for several years) when it appears someone is not even trying to find answers themselves they do get frustrated and someone with 19 years of experience they might be expecting them to have a solid knowledge of basic functions - - Most of these people read EVERY post on here trying to help - so long winded replies calling everyone condescending puts people in a defensive mode instead of a helpful mode - lets keep the questions and answers condensed without getting personal.
  5. 3 points
    I bought my Graphtec new in 2008, and have NEVER, and I mean never had a problem with it. I cut almost every day and my cutter is original, Same cutting strip and all. The cuts are great, precise and accurate. The Graphtecs are very well built. The tracking is GREAT. The Graphtecs have more features than the Titans. The only Titan coming close to a Graphtec is the 28" Titan 3, Which is about $500 less, and it has less features than a Graphtec. Titan 1 is a stepper, with no contour cutting and the Titan 2 is a servo with manual contour cutting. but we have seen many of the Titans needing new boards in about a year or 2. You don't see Graphtecs doing that. The Titans have not been out in the field that long like the Graphtecs. Graphtecs are built with great precision and quality, They also cut more detailed designs better. I own 2 Graphtec FC vinyl cutters and would buy another. Because Graphtecs are so great, they hold their resale value also. I also purchased 2 Graphtec CE5000-60 for my kids, also no problems with them. Graphtecs also provide more options in software. For a PC or a Mac, and you can't beat the Graphtec Pro Studio for Windows, Over a $1000 software. Pretty close to FlexisignPro. FREE. If you do need tech support, Graphtec tech support is great also.
  6. 3 points
    Graphtec is worth the wait. You won't be sorry.
  7. 3 points
    titan3 would be the next step up but if you wait and save just about 300 more you can get the graphtec ce6000-60 - top notch then and comes with free graphtec pro studio software which is private branded flexi pro that you would spend $2000 for just that software without a cutter . . . . IMHO
  8. 3 points
    Yes, Dakota, that is how the 'Drop Shadow' function in Vm works. As far as not having the 2 layers over top of one another; Ungroup the 2 layers (grouped by Default when Created with the Drop Shadow Module) And Punch them out. (Not sure if the Cut Version has all these Features.
  9. 3 points
    The old timers here, are here to help. We do not know every program out there. we use what we use. Combined, we do know every program for design and cutting. In my opinion, grab a beer and click on help is a fantastic idea. There is more in that click than you can get waiting for help from the forum. In my humble opinion.
  10. 2 points
    Because of circumstances, I have a nearly endless supply of old 4x8 voting signs made of coroplast. I also have 20 acres of hiking trails, off roading trails and a private gun range that I make signs for, so I use those old signs since they're just for me. I tried a bunch of different methods of painting the coroplast with not very much luck until I found that if I use Rustoleum's plastic primer first, then plastic paint over that, it seemed to last and not peel off. But in my case, I could still see some of the screen printed lettering on the voting sign and didn't really like that, so now I just cover the entire sign in whatever vinyl color I want for the background, then layer the vinyl letters over that. Here is a recycled trail sign covered in brown 651 then white for the lettering.
  11. 2 points
    ditto! If precision is something that's going to be critical - which really depends on how you (or your customer) critiques your work, that may be a deciding factor. For me, personally, it takes me less time to layer over trying to do an exact application of individually cut color going on one at a time. If you're doing batting helmets, then keep in mind that's an application you'll have to do several times, and not just a one and done thing. I'd say, test one method out, and then test the other.
  12. 2 points
    It depends on the project and personal preference. If you're happy with the results that's all that really matters. punching stuff out so that you are not layering the vinyl can make for a smooth finish, but getting things to line up exactly so that there is no gap or overlap can be very tricky and the larger the decal harder it can be.
  13. 2 points
    huh, who knew there were two sites? go figure. i don't know the difference, but i get mine from cleancutblade.com (without the "s"). I'm happy with what I get.
  14. 2 points
    I owned one 50" cutter - after trying to weed those and mask them I went back to the 24-30" after that for all my cutters as most signs can be done in more manageable segments even 12' signs have natural areas that can be made smaller except if doing really really large graphics and then can be tiled. the only reason I would think of a 50" again or bigger would be if I had a latex printer and needed a cutter to contour then I would be looking at the new Rolands because nothing has compared to ease of finding registration marks to my roland print and cut units. as most of my work is cut vinyl now I still use a graphtec. choice is yours though as to what you like and really I wouldn't have appreciated the graphtecs as much had I not fought all those stepper motor cutters. sometimes you just have to learn for yourself
  15. 2 points
    i like the concept of not overlapping when I do 2+ colors, but in reality, my eyes and hands simply aren't steady enough for a level of accuracy if the color is supposed to touch one another, especially on a graphic as long as yours. I would guarantee have negative space or in inadvertent overlapping someplace along that graphic. good luck with that, and take a pic when you're done so we can see it installed.
  16. 2 points
    Jenna Sue (Regular) Find my font best $50 you will ever spend
  17. 2 points
    Angie I saw that machine on CL and wondered if they got it sold. I am the mod mentioned and actually here in your area and run a newer Summa. That machine is pretty old but as long as it's been taken care of should be a good option especially at what you paid for it. I recommend trying out the free Signblazer if you're on a super tight budget and don't already have design skills. I run a mac and so use SignCut Pro in combination with Adobe Illustrator but both of those are paid programs.
  18. 2 points
    Call Support? Now why would I want to do a thing like that? Nooooo! That's entirely too easy. I would much rather crack a beer, have a seat, and bother the REAL people! Just wanted to update anyone following. I managed to get this rig running, finally. And I gotta tell ya... It helps so much TO INSTALL THE CORRECT CUTTER! That entire time... I had SC2 selected, NOT the Titan 2. After making the correct choice, the bells & whistles came alive. It was a Hallmark moment. No kidding. If any of you could have seen my behavior, prior to choosing wisely, you'd have grabbed popcorn & a fountain drink. Yeah... it was sad. Anyway... After a few test cuts, I noticed that the offset was too low (rounded, incomplete cuts). Of course, I headed straight for the calibration thingy. That's where I'm stuck now. That's where you fine peoples come in. I got to the part where the design shows up on the sign blank. Pretty sure it's a grid, with #'s & letters. Well, I hit CUT IT NOW. It starts cutting... then stops... and just sits there. Your thoughts?
  19. 2 points
    You should be peeling the wax paper backing off the decal. it makes a huge difference. Lay decal tape down, peel the backing off. No mention which vinyl or tape you are using,
  20. 1 point
    comparing the titan 3 and the grahtec ce both have the same warranty. just looked at pricing on US web page titan 3 you get vinyl master cut single license key $59.99 software 28" $1295 53" $1595 68" $1895 Graphtec you get Graphtec pro with 3 license key US cutter values it at $2100 right now US has the ce 6000- 60 with a heat press for $1795 again I haven't used a titan machine yet , so I cant comment on how it cuts. Personally I would go with the 24" cutter over the 15" , but I started with a 53" and moved dn to the 24" cut for everyday use. of course this is just like the vehicle u drive, its all personal preference. along with the cut & design program u use. maybe this post wont create a headache for any1
  21. 1 point
    so I will chime back in since I started at the bottom and worked up to a Graphtec. my 1st cutter was a 53" with a 48" cut , stepper cutter. I still have it, now at my house to be able to do some stuff from there. I bought it because it was the largest cutter in my newbie budget and not knowing if I would continue or even be able to learn this trade didnt want a lot of $ out there if I gave up. also my 1st job was a sign for g friends store, 3'x12' didnt think it was a good idea with no experience to try tiling. well it took up so much room when I moved into the ft of the shop to be able to cut decals for tourist, a 28" cutter was the ticket. along popped up a ce5000-60 from a friend of a friend. so I guess its 1 of those things you just have to experience to understand the why. now I have several different brand cutters, most being a 28". but did trade for another stepper 53" the other month. I have it up for sell because I found a 53" servo I have my eye on. I wanna keep a lg servo for the bigger jobs. my plan is to keep buying and selling a few used cutters until ive flipped enough to buy a new 28" servo cutter right now in the fleet is the us cutter sc model 53" I started with, a seiki 53". an expert 24, another stepper cutter. then the Graphtec ce 5000-60 28" . working a deal on another 1 of those now. with all the talk and what Ive read up on a summa. I will def keep an eye out for 1 of those used to mess with. that way I will know the difference in pretty much most of the big name brands for when I drop the coin on the new cutter. I feel ive def learned quite a bit messing around with all these different cutters, def what features I feel is a must have that my 1st cutter didn't have. but I believe I learned a lot because with it if u didn't have everything set up correctly or double checked a few things, u will b cutting right n to the cutting strip instead of vinyl. I know this because ive done it, where with the Graphtec and even the expert that isn't going happen. now I do have a good friend that swears by his titan 2, but if im not mistaken when I asked him if it would do as my sc model and keep cutting right off the vinyl on to the cutting strip, he said it would. like a few have mentioned here, the bigger reason of the Graphtec is the quality of the cuts. with all the cutters I have tried, the Graphtec def out does my list of cutters, I guess not a real fair comparison since its my only servo cutter
  22. 1 point
    Yes Stretch is great for everything that regular is and more. Costs a little bit more but worth it IMO. Not as many colors and if you happen to leave the inside of a letter when weeding you can usually heat and pluck regular but not stretch or not as easy. This is especially true on polyester. Other benefits of Stretch are that is doesn't show wrinkles nearly as much. Some HTV benefits from being regular such as gold or silver on garments that have a heavy weave the regular will end up with a cool look from the weave that gives it almost a reflective quality that stretch does not produce. Gold and Silver regular have a shiny look and the stretch variant not as shiny.
  23. 1 point
    Then crack a beer and go to the top of the layout screen where HELP is. Plenty of answers and tutorials for helping with your software. Most any software has HELP and the guides for using the software. There is even a keyword search. Sounds like your wanting to change the blade offset. Search blade offset. There is a tutorial that tells you how to do that. PS. I just might be older or close to you.
  24. 1 point
    Someone who uses SCALP will have to tell you how to set your design up to cut. I always used Flexi software with my Seiki. Never did like SCALP software. Just from looking at your design, you cut a square and triangle up in the right hand corner. That moves the word THE over to the left. Do some test cuts with the test feature on the vinyl cutter and get your blade depth correct.
  25. 1 point
    every professional I know uses paper tape - lots of hobbyist use clear. anyone that has tried applying clear to something like a larger back window with a compound curve know that clear will not conform to the curves like paper will