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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/29/2020 in all areas

  1. 5 points
  2. 4 points
    That's kind of the selling point of the 751 and 951. They conform to curves better. If you're new to the vinyl world the 651 can feel like it's easier/safer to work with but as you go and refine your skills you'll find the higher end stuff can be a real pleasure to work with. A little like a high performance car. Scary as hell the first time you drive one but as you learn it's capability it becomes a lot of fun.
  3. 4 points
    I don’t give breaks anymore I give them two choices take it or leave it....I kissed butt and cut prices for many years in my handyman and remodeling business and barley got by it took a while to figure that when my wife bought groceries or clothes for the kids oI bought supplies or gas or paid taxes We didn’t get breaks because we was buying other products or services so 35 years or so ago I quit giving breaks guess what I didn’t lose business because my business was quality oriented so when I started doing signage also I applied the same business principal and I don’t believe I have lost business because of it ....let’s just say I have had to slow down to 5 days a week because of my age ...being in my 70s my body doesn’t like long week’s anymore and I am now having to turn away work.
  4. 3 points
    clear will not conform to compound curves and cannot be used when applying wet - usually for walls you use 631 and need a high tack tape - walls can be problematic if textured or painted with an easy clean surface - many times with those surfaces your graphic will be on the floor the next day.
  5. 3 points
    My LaserPoint has a ruler, but it's metric, not that it matters. The only useful purpose for that for me, is when I'm feeding a sheet into the cutter - I jog the vinyl back and forth and see how it tracks compared to the tick marks on the ruler. That tells me how crooked I am, and which way I need to make adjustments. If there's a CleanCut Blade for the Prism, I'd look into getting a 60* and 45*, if they don't - I'd still get a 60* blade, because that will be helpful when you cut small stuff, intricate designs, or tiny text.
  6. 3 points
    I am not sure what a ruler on a plotter would be used for after 12 years of use. While I don’t know about the prism cut the graphtec use a fan to pull down the vinyl and no need for additional pinch rollers
  7. 3 points
    You could download a trial of the version you would like to try, and see if it is worth it to you.
  8. 2 points
    why not just import your room picture in vinylmaster and put your artwork over it to see what it looks like - less steps and same result
  9. 2 points
    I have. Didn't have any issues
  10. 2 points
    you can check your offset and see if that will help.
  11. 2 points
    search for setting blade depth. It's been posted hundreds of times on here. When vinyl is lifting, you have too much blade exposed. Slow the cutter down.
  12. 2 points
    Make sure that the pinch rollers are over the grit rollers on the bottom. Never be pulling from a roll while cutting. Always have enough vinyl prefed and free. Other than that you don't give enough info of what you are doing. Or showing how you have the vinyl in the vinyl cutter. Put pinch rollers equal distance from the vinyl edge.
  13. 2 points
    it's hard to tell for sure from that wireframe view, but it looks like you'll want to weld all the black as well. Two separate welds of course. Select all pink, weld it, select all back weld it, then cut by color.
  14. 2 points
    you need to isolate the all the pink and weld (combine) it together. you can check if you successfully got it welded it by checking the wireframe/nodes. then cut by color.
  15. 1 point
    SHOUTY caps off please. If your boss has access to the original clipart, I'd go that route, because the logo on the website you sent probably won't be a good enough resolution to be vectorized well. Get to learn Inkscape, it's an open source application that has a decent vectorizing engine. Get the logo, convert it to black and white, then try to vectorize it. If I may ask, are you creating a mask for it to be sandblasted on to glass, or were you going to just apply vinyl to glasses? I'm going to do you a solid and do a basic vectorization, but still encourage you learn how to do it successfully on your own. Any imperfections and clean up is something that you will need to do it on your own. If you want to know how I got from point A to point B - 1. Grab the best logo image there was on the website, which was at the bottom of the site 2. Converted it to black (instead of white) 3. drag and dropped it into Inkscape and vectorized it 4. Saved it as an .eps file HAMS logo.eps
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    Hello, has anyone had success using their cutter when they are connected to a 3.0 or 3.1 type "C" port on a newer Mac. I have tested with a few models and if the communication does happen to work, it always ends up with the dreaded diagonal lines or stops mid cut. Is anyone successfully running their "value" or any model cutter for that matter connected to a Type "C" port? Currently I am testing a US Cutter Laserpoint 1 which worked great on an older Mac with 2.0 ports. It is connected with the supplied USB cable and a USB-C to USB apple adapter. This model uses FTDI drivers and they state there are known issues when connecting to 3.0 ports. https://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Documents/TechnicalNotes/TN_152_USB_3.0_Compatibility_Issues_Explained.pdf I have also tested with the serial cable and a FTDI USB adapter with the same results using Sure cuts a lot, SignCut pro 1 and pro 2, as well as Easy Cut studio. Any feedback or information is greatly appreciated!
  18. 1 point
    I don't mean up and down position, I mean how much the design wraps around the glass. When you look at a cup/glass, only about 1/4 of the cup is facing you. So if your design is bigger than about 1/4 of the cups circumference it will start to look distorted, or part of the image will not be seen without turning the cup.
  19. 1 point
    Device Manager: PORTS -- Com1 -- Right Click, Properties -- Port Settings tab -- Advanced button -- ComPort dropdown list -- pick Com2. Then go into SBE and check to see you have that ComPort selected in Cutter Setup.
  20. 1 point
    I never did small decals always larger signage, lighted signs and dimensional lettering, channel letters etc
  21. 1 point
    Using 651 is not helping you. That is a great vinyl but it a Calendared process and it is a but stiff to cut. If you are going to the extremes in size I recommend going to the extreme in vinyl. Get your self a fresh piece of 951 at the top of the food chain. I would also recommend a 60deg Clean Cut Blade and run through all the proper setup procedures again with the new blade. (going to this blade you will want to lower your cut force by about half and ease back into it or you will push right through the carrier into the cutting strip and may break a tip off. The high end blades are really sharp but the tips can be a little more brittle. I don't know your experience level but getting the depth set correctly (search blade depth on the forum) is the single most often mistake by people, some who have been cutting for years with too much sticking out of the blade holder. There are several notes that say 1/2 of a credit card that are WRONG WRONG WRONG. In order to cut that small you will need to have your machine dialed in absolutely perfect. Another tip that may help you is to apply design partially weeded, leaving in all the trouble parts and weed them after you get it on whatever you're putting it on. This bypasses the whole issue of whether the vinyl has enough sticky to hold to the carrier sheet and lets the adhesive get hold of a solid object and you can still pluck the events out after the fact.
  22. 1 point
    I think I see the shadow he's talking about, and I think that is actually what it is, a shadow resulting from the compound curve of the door, don't believe it's vinyl.
  23. 1 point
    having the pinch rollers jerk the vinyl off of a roll because there wasn't sufficient slack is not a good thing.
  24. 1 point
    I played around with it and welded the outline to the heart. That gave me the heart and the letters outside of it. I added the text and outline again and tweaked here and there and it printed perfectly. Being able to do something like this without pulling whats left of my hair out goes a long way. Thanks again for your help.
  25. 1 point
    It takes time and experience to learn how it all works. The trick is YOU need to re-adjust your thinking. That is way I suggested some business classes. If your county doesn't offer any go to the next county and pay the $20-40 it cost for not being a resident of that county. Trust me it's worth it. The reason counties offer classes like this is because they want people like you building businesses and bringing in more money for the county. Don't give up and keep searching You have to ask yourself "Why are people coming to me for this?" The answer................ because they don't know how to do it or have the means to do it. That's powerful right there. For a long time I would think to myself why on earth anyone would pay $20 for a 4"x12" decal. It's so easy to make and only cost about $.75 in material. Because they can't and you can. When I'm out there getting paid $60 an hour to remove graphics it's because they don't want to and they will pay that much so they don't have to. Once you start doing this more you'll hear customers say "Man, I could never do that without messing up." That statement right there is why I get paid what I do. Because I've spent the time to learn; Graphics, vectors, cutting vinyl, taping up vinyl, proper ways to remove vinyl, installing vinyl, billing, accounting, expenses, profits, advertising, selling, dealing with cheap people, and LEARNING TO WALK AWAY. Knowledge is extremely valuable. It's taken many years to learn all this but it's paying off. None of this is natural thinking and has to be learned. Time to re-adjust your think. You see a $.75 decal on the table you just made. I see $20 that someone is willing to pay for something they can't make.