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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/19/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Looking at your first picture, I believe you are cutting too deep and cutting into the backing paper. Reset your blade length as per MZ SKEETER'S instructions and reduce your pressure settings. You should barely be making an indentation on the backing paper with your blade.
  2. 3 points
    I have read the recommendation to leave the plotter with the pressure rollers up - 99 percent of the time for the past 10-11 years mine has been left down and vinyl loaded. I don't follow some directions well I guess
  3. 2 points
    Call Support? Now why would I want to do a thing like that? Nooooo! That's entirely too easy. I would much rather crack a beer, have a seat, and bother the REAL people! Just wanted to update anyone following. I managed to get this rig running, finally. And I gotta tell ya... It helps so much TO INSTALL THE CORRECT CUTTER! That entire time... I had SC2 selected, NOT the Titan 2. After making the correct choice, the bells & whistles came alive. It was a Hallmark moment. No kidding. If any of you could have seen my behavior, prior to choosing wisely, you'd have grabbed popcorn & a fountain drink. Yeah... it was sad. Anyway... After a few test cuts, I noticed that the offset was too low (rounded, incomplete cuts). Of course, I headed straight for the calibration thingy. That's where I'm stuck now. That's where you fine peoples come in. I got to the part where the design shows up on the sign blank. Pretty sure it's a grid, with #'s & letters. Well, I hit CUT IT NOW. It starts cutting... then stops... and just sits there. Your thoughts?
  4. 2 points
    You should be peeling the wax paper backing off the decal. it makes a huge difference. Lay decal tape down, peel the backing off. No mention which vinyl or tape you are using,
  5. 2 points
    I refer you back to post 5 in this thread from sunday . . . .
  6. 2 points
    No problems with a desktop with 8 cores and 64gb ram either
  7. 2 points
    First things first --- identify those fonts (2 different ones). Do not ever vectorize text. Horrible results. Ask them for a higher-resolution copy, maybe if you're lucky get an .eps version!!!
  8. 2 points
    Hats are fickle. I mostly use my "kids" platen as I have stated before which is called the Allstar now. It's only 2-3/4" tall so the designs have to be no more than about 2-1/2" and I try to maintain more like 2" to 2-1/4" just for easier placement. The foam hats look like they have room for taller platen. The standard platen is 3-1/2" and that seems to be just a little too tall to allow the crown to settle down on most of the hats I sell or at least the smaller one is a LOT easier to get them to lay flat. The extra platens are pretty pricey and I think you have to go directly to the stahls website to get them. AND they aren't cheap. For me the secret is the smaller designs and choosing hats that fit my press better (and steering my customers to those styles of hat). Never tried a pillow on there and I don't see how it would be very productive to try and get it all stuffed in there and settled down. I just pre press them and then vigorously stretch the hat so it lays as flat as I can get it to the lower platen. Some edges tend to roll off and as long as your design doesn't lay over the edges that won't hurt anything. Having the print loaded hold down is really nice and I would hate to try and get a consistent job without it.
  9. 2 points
    I defer all hat questions to goose or those that do lots more than I ever did - I sold my hat press years ago. Juice wasn't worth the squeezing in my area
  10. 2 points
    I am not sure what takes the sublimation ink off a platen - you can try the easy off or even some rubbing alcohol first - if hotronix the platen is probably covered in a coating anyways but this is how we learn, there has to be a couple of missteps in the process. we all do it and continue to make mistakes even years later. forgetting to mirror htv will be the one that returns for years
  11. 2 points
    always, always use butcher paper or similar protective paper over the project. You are correct that the ink in gas form attached to your platen and causing that red ghosting. cheap roll of butcher paper (uncoated) from sams, costco etc last a LONG time and saves your press
  12. 2 points
    For the sublimation work I would make the print so that there was enough open area on each side and probably above the crown that the edges of the paper won't create a crease and the tape can be applied so it isn't even under the heat. Just a longer strip if that makes sense. It will waste a little sublimation paper but in that scenario that is what I would do. I never tried to sublimate a hat but other than the problem you are finding the sub job looks awesome. One thing I do on most of my hats is as soon as I put a pre-press to it for a few seconds I then lift the heat and work the hat to stretch it a little and make it conform to the platen a little better so it doesn't get the creases. I have never pressed on a foamy so they may not conform but most regular structured hats will.
  13. 2 points
    In my experience, if the cuts are too deep into the backing paper, the vinyl decals get 'stuck' (sorta fused onto the backing layer). However, you say this is not happening, so there's something else going on here.
  14. 2 points
    a free version that is very close is OPTIDiannaScriptBoldAgency (Bold *Oblique)
  15. 2 points
    Now with all that said I believe it is a white over purple Carla Pro (Regular *Oblique)
  16. 2 points
    That's an interesting question. When I had my P-Cut budget cutter it said to never leave the rollers up. When I got my High end cutter it said to never leave the rollers down. LOL. I just do what the cutter manual says. The reason the cheap cutter said to always lower them was to keep from compressing the springs for long periods and weakening them. The reason the high end machine says leave them up is because it will create flat spots on the pinch rollers and lead to tracking inaccuracy. Maybe the higher end machine has better quality springs, I have never had to replace the pinch rollers and I've now had this thing for 6 years. I try to keep my vinyl inside a plastic liner so I tend to remove it and store it. If it's some HTV that I am using pretty often I may leave it on the machine but not under the rollers. Each to his own.
  17. 1 point
    try going into the vinyl spooler section of vinylmaster and the second tab has an area to adjust offset - mine isn't clicked as a graphtec always uses 0 but other plotters typically people start at .25 and move it up or down in small increments until they get a sharp corner on their test cut from the plotter screen We usually don't get the opportunity to help someone that has been doing vinyl cutting for 24 years - they are usually the ones doing the teaching
  18. 1 point
    looks like the logo was designed by GP designs in a contest https://logotournament.com/contests/site-development-corporation/by/gpdesign and according to that site the agreement looks they would be provided high resolution files - there would need to be changes for cut files as the logo is made for print or web use with the "reflection" part of the upper logo
  19. 1 point
    On a designers note most of us experienced builders just don't trace out text unless we have exhausted every other possibility. It's faster to at least find a similar font and make modifications on that one than to trace things out. If it's one to 4 or 5 letters then I might just to get done and move on but those font designers spend a LOT of time perfecting all the little radius and corner angles and it's a lot of work to get it to look good. Like mfatty500 said every vector program on the planet that I am aware of either operates with the text already converted to outlines or has the needed feature to convert the font to a vector outline built in. SOME fonts look good when small but are actually not so awesome when you get up close and personal. The messier fonts will cause some issues when you get into doing path offsets, outlines or shadows or whatever your program calls them. You will know it when you see a really strange outline and most of the time it's a bad spot on the base font design. I really enjoy the design side of the business. Some struggle but practice makes perfect and it's a handy skill to have and a necessary one in the cutting world.
  20. 1 point
    Yeah - I would normally not start out with equipment this nice, but with the encouragement from here, I feel better to have gone this route. I am sure I will miss out on some good lessons, but, hey, I'm getting old. Or, at least, feeling old. The FC8600 was actually on my radar for a second. Network-able, I believe. I wondered about it and came across some used ones, but I already demolished the budget going to the 6000 and the 6000 is new.
  21. 1 point
    Cool thanks mfatty500 for the help and tip
  22. 1 point
    Just wanted to say thanks again. Although I don't know how well a Silhouette works, this Graphtec is very solid! Amazing triangle and square (so far) :-) I'm sure I will have more questions in new threads, but wanted to complete this thread.
  23. 1 point
    welcome aboard. seems ive already posted on a different thread of yours or something. Im always late to the game . lol. we def need more jeepers. that's my other biz, used to just build crawlers, but when I jumped n to it full time I will build whatever they pay to. serious mall crawlers. spare room or not, looks like you have a nice set up
  24. 1 point
    I put something like that out there, but figured a non helping answer might get me in trouble. so I changed it. LOL But I am glad you posted it.
  25. 1 point
    I would get some good vinyl. Oracal 651 etc. and set your blade to that. Greenstar, more like practice vinyl. You have a TEST feature on your vinyl cutter, use it when you change vinyls. You can see how it cuts with each vinyl. I would back off the force a tad for the Heat press vinyl right now, until you get better vinyl.