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  1. 3 points
    I spoke to someone at uscutter about this and as the warehouses ran out orafol was having the same supply issues as everyone else and sick employees - it got to the point the stock in warehouses were getting low for everyone but they expect it to get better soon
  2. 3 points
    moving slow today so not sure how far I will get as I wanted to have both plotters upstairs for the side by side - before I take the ce7000 down to the work area. first impression physically the ce7000 is 2" taller and 4" wider. the roll holding tubes have gone from 1/2" stainless steel tubes to 5/8 stainless tubes. the stands are almost identical size but the 7000 has extra holes in the feet that I am assuming are for the take up reels when used on the bigger machines or specialty machines. the brackets that hold the plotter on the stand have a few extra holes I will have to explore later. Gone is the wide serial cable port and newly added is the lan connection along with a place to plug a thumb drive directly into the ce7000 the tray slot that I used to hold a specialty 4 place blade holder is gone and graphtec has added a small tool area of it's own. I will have to explore that more as the ones the member here 3d printed ensured the tips never hit the bottom of the tray - the new ce7000 does appear to have little circles that might provide the same protection but I will be convinced after I can use it a few times and don't break any tims as I change blade holders very regularly depending on the vinyl I am cutting we are in the midst of a week without a bed as we prepped our bedroom for carpet and new bed so kinda out of it and moving slow - new bed coming thursday is as exciting as a vacation after the past week will add more updates later.
  3. 3 points
    There is a checkbox called "Absolute Position" (otherwise known as WYSIWYG). Rarely will that be the choice for average cutting, but seems you are in need of it for this project.
  4. 3 points
    This video should show you how to do what you're wanting.
  5. 3 points
    just wait until you upgrade your blades to Clean Cut 60* blades, it'll need a little more tweaking, but it'll be worth it.
  6. 3 points
    Ditto. Go back to basics, and go through this list, step-by-step, because it will help to eliminate what's happening. If you can sucessfully cross off the list as you go down, then it helps the rest of us to narrow the actual cause. Set the blade depth properly. Slow the cut down a little (there is no set speed, and every machine model is different). Check the force of the blade, so that you're not cutting into the backing, but simply leaving a mark. Find the owner's manual and see what they recommend for the offset, and adjust the numbers up or down and see what kind of results you get. Start there and lets what kind of results you get, and we can help you figure it out.
  7. 3 points
  8. 3 points
    The process is more than a single step. 1. Set the blade exposure (often called the blade depth but is different than the cutting pressure) There are often instructions that are WRONG that say use half the thickness of a credit card. That is way too much and can cause you to ruin a good blade tip. To set this correctly remove the blade holder from your machine and, by hand, drag it across a piece of scrap vinyl with some force. Not super hard but enough to definitely cut. You should only be cutting through the vinyl and maybe half way into the paper backing. If you can cut all the way through then you have too much sticking out. When you get this set correctly you know that it is impossible to cut clear though. Typical cheap vinyl is 3 mil thick and high end vinyl is 2 mil thick so if you set this on 3 mil vinyl (cheap stuff) you will be good for both as well as most HTV. Occasionally you may find material that is thicker and you'll have to reset it but otherwise for normal day to day work you won't need to make adjustments to this again. 2. Set your speed and down force to relatively slow and light settings. I recommend about 1/4 or 1/3 of the max speed. If your machine can cut at 400 set it at 100 to start with. You can always speed it up later. For pressure you will want to start off light and do small increments until you find the pressure that will cut all the way through. When you get the pressure set just right you should be cutting cleanly through the vinyl and scratching the paper carrier but not be able to feel the cut from the back side. If you cut a little too deep you will find the backing paper sometimes coming up with the vinyl. 3. Set your blade offset whatever the owners manual said was the recommended amount. You will have to tweak this but they will usually tell you what to start at. Typically .25-.35mm is common. 4. If your software has a test cut option use it or you can create a test by making a small 1" square and cut it. If your cuts look like the one you posted you have too much offset. 5. There is a thing called overcut that sometimes needs to be used if the ends of your start and end points don't meet. Most of the time you won't need this. If you do it theoretically would be somewhere around the same value as your offset or less.
  9. 2 points
    Decide whether or not your really want to get a heat press right off the bat. If you do, then that will take up some of your budget for the cutter. The you're budgeting $900 for the cutter alone, then USC currently has a Titan 2 (servo motor) that's refurb'd in it's Outlet section. That's going to be the cheapest servo cutter you're going to get at USC for now. If you need some wiggle room in the $900 for the cutter and various other things, then the Titan is a very good start. The cutter will be what makes or breaks your business, so get the best one that you can afford, without it - you have no business.
  10. 2 points
    I think the question is, what is your budget? The easiest answer is to buy the best you are willing to afford. Are you wanting to start smaller and then see where it goes for the bigger projects, or do you want to get a larger machine right off the bat, so if you eventually get jobs that size, you're ready to go. You can do a lot of projects with a 28"/34" cutter. I would start with an SC machine or up. If you can afford a machine with a servo motor, that would be better - it's quieter and more accurate.
  11. 2 points
    Pretty much all of your questions can be answered right here. Tons of valuable info. Search box in upper right corner. Of course starting out, it all depends on the budget that you have to spend. Wrapping and cutting are two totally different avenues to take. To wrap, take some classes. Here is the UScutter buying guide. But there are other cutters for sale also. https://www.uscutter.com/index/page/static/subpage/buying_guides_new
  12. 2 points
    My SC2 is on carpet, I've never done anything for static, and I've never had a problem.
  13. 2 points
    I don't think you will have a problem with the titan or higher - machines like the mh have a problem because the feet it sits on that make contact with the stand isolate the stand and vinyl - so static builds in the vinyl and discharges thru the carriage - the higher end machines have metal to metal contact on the machine to stand and metal rollers
  14. 2 points
    My setup has always been on carpet, just find a way to ground your machine, and to remove as much static from your vinyl as possible. I think I read a post that some puts Bounce dryer sheets in the cores of their rolls of vinyl. I can't say that I've tried that myself.
  15. 2 points
    Oracal also depends on other companies, to get their supplies from. and to get to other suppliers. Everything has to be cleaned. I have packages that are not getting delivered for up to 3 weeks, that are only 3 hours away, waiting for clean vehicles. Alot of bigger towns have bottle necks. .I also have had packages stalled for riots and protests.. UPS trucks couldn't move.
  16. 2 points
    Finally, fixed my problem and got a clean cut. The solution was to just buy another SC2. Thank you all for your help, I do appreciate your time and efforts!
  17. 2 points
    Yeah the T's look pretty good from here. The little tag at the bottom is probably from the blade being at a different angle when it is dropped and then it rotates into position as it starts to travel. Overcut like mentioned will cause the cut to run a smidge longer and connect the end to the start. Don't over-do it.
  18. 2 points
    So not knowing much about the pixmax cutter. On the cutter itself can you get to a screen that lets you adjust the blade offset or is it totally up to the software? I use the older version of SignCut but it will have the same options. In the cut tab (in my version it is a pair of scissors...see pic) you will have an option to either use the machine settings for force and speed or the software settings. SignCut drivers determine a lot of what you see on this and other pages so things may look and be different for you but if you can check that part whether you need to decide the blade offset in the software or if you can set it on the machine itself (preferred IMO) Your layout may be different. The good news is that SignCut has actual real people who will contact you soon and can even remote in to your computer if needed and get you running. I love SignCut. I use it in large part because I am on a mac but it will work on either platform. I design offsite in Adobe Illustrator and then just use SignCut Pro 1 to cut with. The new version you have has design tools I think but I have not tried it out. I own the lifetime dongle so I decided to leave well enough alone and not mess with something that is working for me.
  19. 2 points
    I would have expected to see more of a difference - what cutting software are you using (some have offset in them that will override the plotter) what degree blade are you using?
  20. 2 points
    sure looks like some deep cuts in the backing paper - maybe just me but . . .
  21. 2 points
    wildgoose covered it pretty well in his post. so many new people start with too much blade exposure and going too fast - take your time and dial it in using his instructions
  22. 2 points
    Hmm ... maybe I need to up my level of OCD.
  23. 2 points
    I swear the blade holder is dropping down and lifting up.
  24. 2 points
    Brush Script & Cooper Black are the fonts
  25. 2 points
    Or rather than clicking on a file and hoping the program you want to open opens, open the program you want and then open the file with said program.