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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/22/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Looking at your first picture, I believe you are cutting too deep and cutting into the backing paper. Reset your blade length as per MZ SKEETER'S instructions and reduce your pressure settings. You should barely be making an indentation on the backing paper with your blade.
  2. 4 points
    comments should be about the problem - not personality conflicts. if it continues the thread will be locked Dirt fisherman - keep in mind the people on here helping volunteer their time (many for several years) when it appears someone is not even trying to find answers themselves they do get frustrated and someone with 19 years of experience they might be expecting them to have a solid knowledge of basic functions - - Most of these people read EVERY post on here trying to help - so long winded replies calling everyone condescending puts people in a defensive mode instead of a helpful mode - lets keep the questions and answers condensed without getting personal.
  3. 3 points
    Yes, Dakota, that is how the 'Drop Shadow' function in Vm works. As far as not having the 2 layers over top of one another; Ungroup the 2 layers (grouped by Default when Created with the Drop Shadow Module) And Punch them out. (Not sure if the Cut Version has all these Features.
  4. 3 points
    The old timers here, are here to help. We do not know every program out there. we use what we use. Combined, we do know every program for design and cutting. In my opinion, grab a beer and click on help is a fantastic idea. There is more in that click than you can get waiting for help from the forum. In my humble opinion.
  5. 2 points
    i like the concept of not overlapping when I do 2+ colors, but in reality, my eyes and hands simply aren't steady enough for a level of accuracy if the color is supposed to touch one another, especially on a graphic as long as yours. I would guarantee have negative space or in inadvertent overlapping someplace along that graphic. good luck with that, and take a pic when you're done so we can see it installed.
  6. 2 points
    Jenna Sue (Regular) Find my font best $50 you will ever spend
  7. 2 points
    Angie I saw that machine on CL and wondered if they got it sold. I am the mod mentioned and actually here in your area and run a newer Summa. That machine is pretty old but as long as it's been taken care of should be a good option especially at what you paid for it. I recommend trying out the free Signblazer if you're on a super tight budget and don't already have design skills. I run a mac and so use SignCut Pro in combination with Adobe Illustrator but both of those are paid programs.
  8. 2 points
    Call Support? Now why would I want to do a thing like that? Nooooo! That's entirely too easy. I would much rather crack a beer, have a seat, and bother the REAL people! Just wanted to update anyone following. I managed to get this rig running, finally. And I gotta tell ya... It helps so much TO INSTALL THE CORRECT CUTTER! That entire time... I had SC2 selected, NOT the Titan 2. After making the correct choice, the bells & whistles came alive. It was a Hallmark moment. No kidding. If any of you could have seen my behavior, prior to choosing wisely, you'd have grabbed popcorn & a fountain drink. Yeah... it was sad. Anyway... After a few test cuts, I noticed that the offset was too low (rounded, incomplete cuts). Of course, I headed straight for the calibration thingy. That's where I'm stuck now. That's where you fine peoples come in. I got to the part where the design shows up on the sign blank. Pretty sure it's a grid, with #'s & letters. Well, I hit CUT IT NOW. It starts cutting... then stops... and just sits there. Your thoughts?
  9. 2 points
    You should be peeling the wax paper backing off the decal. it makes a huge difference. Lay decal tape down, peel the backing off. No mention which vinyl or tape you are using,
  10. 2 points
    I refer you back to post 5 in this thread from sunday . . . .
  11. 2 points
    No problems with a desktop with 8 cores and 64gb ram either
  12. 2 points
    First things first --- identify those fonts (2 different ones). Do not ever vectorize text. Horrible results. Ask them for a higher-resolution copy, maybe if you're lucky get an .eps version!!!
  13. 1 point
    Setting numbers are irrelevant. But there is more precision in the higher end cutters. Roland, Graphtec and Summa. Each vinyl cutter is different even the same model. Also vinyl can be a little different depending on color and lot. There are no set in stone setting numbers for vinyl cutters. It is all trial and error for what works with your cutter and supplies to make a cut to your liking. That is why you should check your blade and force on the TEST cut feature of your vinyl cutter. As well as checking your blade offset. Roland style blades require you to set the blade offset. Graphtec blade offset is normally always ZERO.
  14. 1 point
    I am betting they just made a second layer in gray and adjusted it upward slightly - quick and easy
  15. 1 point
    Yes Stretch is great for everything that regular is and more. Costs a little bit more but worth it IMO. Not as many colors and if you happen to leave the inside of a letter when weeding you can usually heat and pluck regular but not stretch or not as easy. This is especially true on polyester. Other benefits of Stretch are that is doesn't show wrinkles nearly as much. Some HTV benefits from being regular such as gold or silver on garments that have a heavy weave the regular will end up with a cool look from the weave that gives it almost a reflective quality that stretch does not produce. Gold and Silver regular have a shiny look and the stretch variant not as shiny.
  16. 1 point
    Just scanning through the manual, it appears the cutter is either connected through a parallel port or serial port. That would indicate that a special driver is not necessary and you should simply need a program that talks the correct language. That being said, the OS only would matter based on the software you want to use. Signblazer I believe will run just fine on windows 10. Assuming you have a PC with win 10 on it already I'd install SB and give it a try before bothering looking around for other computer options.
  17. 1 point
    I have the Summa D60 that I run with Flexisign. I have had the Summa for at least 10 years and have had only one problem. That was a power supply that went bad. it was probably my fault because I use to leave the power on for long periods of time. I did find a replacement power supply and it's been running great ever since. I have no experience with other programs but can imagine the cutter will run fine with something different and windows 10. That being said the Summa is a great vinyl cutter, they track very well and can cut very detailed designs. The title of this thread is D60 but in the original post you mention a T140. These are two different cutters. the t140 being tangential which is even better than the D60's drag knife design. Dakota gave you links to the Summa site for manuals and drivers. I hope this helps a little. you've got a great cutter.
  18. 1 point
    Okay this is Bryce today I fixed the issue with the contour cutting. I called U.S cutter support and they had me calibrate the page size that wasn’t it. They then told me to adjust the tension on the pinch rollers that wasn’t it. So I am hoping to help someone else having this issue. What the cutter was doing is the cut line would drift about a mm each time it contour cut an image by the time it reached to the far left of the job it was 5mm off and cutting into the image. The solution was to slow the cutter down to 78 mm second on the cutting speed. It now contour cuts big jobs perfectly. I did all of the following things before I figured this out. I uninstalled and reinstalled Vinyl Master. I recalibrated so many times i could draw the test pages three tech calls with U.S cutter multiple unanswered emails to Future Corp purchased Vinyl Master XPT. Replaced the usb cable purchased the com cable and adapter. Tried loading the vinyl all ways possible. Wasted hundreds of dollars in media. I was going to order the Hp Cutter Monday. I want to mention I was only cutting at around 200 speed so not cranked up. Hope this helps someone else.
  19. 1 point
    What do you get if you hit the test button on the cutter?
  20. 1 point
    VM 4.0 has an issue with SVG files, they don't always import correctly. It's best to export files from your design software as eps then import that to VM. The VM people are aware of the SVG issue and have been looking into it.
  21. 1 point
    I was just using the reflective as an example. It being constructed the way it is, it has a tendency to delaminate if you do it wrong, which makes it easy to see that you're doing something wrong. I learned the right way through a few very expensive lessons. No matter what type of vinyl you are using, ALWAYS remove the backing paper from the vinyl & transfer tape. Never try to "lift the vinyl" from the backing paper. It may seem like two ways of saying the same thing, but it isn't. Peeling the backing paper back over the top of itself and sliding it off is the correct way to do it. Someone on here once gave a great description and I wish I could find it. Let me see if I can do it justice... A. The adhesive on the vinyl has to be strong enough to permanently stick to the final surface (rear window, wall, bumper, mug, etc.). B. The adhesive on the vinyl has to be week enough to release from the backing paper. To help this, the backing paper has a slightly waxy finish. This bond is also designed to release when the angle of force is greater than 90 degrees, so pulling the backing paper back over the top of itself goes way past 90 degrees. Simply put, you can't pull the two slices of bread apart on a grilled cheese sandwich because all of that gooey cheese across both surfaces is fighting against you. But if you grab one corner and peel it back you are only fighting the thin line where it's trying to separate. C. The transfer tape adhesive must be weaker than the bond between the vinyl and the final surface (bond A). If not, then you'd never get the vinyl to release from the transfer tape. D. The transfer tape adhesive must be stronger than the bond between the vinyl and the backing paper (bond B ) Logic says that the transfer tape can't be both weaker than and stronger than at the same time. Two things allow this: 1) The substrates. The adhesive has to stick better to the final surface than it does the backing paper, hence the waxy surface. 2) The removal force. Bonds A & C are almost always fighting forces applied to the vinyl at 90 degrees or less which is where they are the strongest. Bonds B & D are broken at an angle greater than 90. . . by folding the backing paper back over itself and that's where the bond is weakest. But if you try to break Bonds B & D by pulling up the transfer tape and vinyl you aren't passing 90% and you're fighting the strongest bond.
  22. 1 point
    Staying in Kaanapali for a few days, spending most of our trip in Oahu. Haven't been outer island in a few years and probably like Maui the best.
  23. 1 point
    I run my Graphtecs on old 2006 Toshiba laptop with Windows XP. I never have problems. The last couple I picked up were less than $100 with Free ship. I also picked up a couple Toshiba with Windows 7, not much more than $100. Keep checking online, plenty for sale. I have spare laptops all set up for my Graphtec, with all the designs loaded. Just in case a computer fails. I can just put another PC right and go again. You will learn , you need to keep spares of most things, if your going to run a serious business. I have never been down in 13 years. For this software, you need at least Windows 7, I think. I picked up a cheap 17" Toshiba windows 7 and installed Windows 10 on it that i got for cheap.
  24. 1 point
    I put something like that out there, but figured a non helping answer might get me in trouble. so I changed it. LOL But I am glad you posted it.
  25. 1 point
    Temperature is a factor, yes. Also, what is the surface like? Make sure it's clean (use isopropyl alcohol).