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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/19/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Looking at your first picture, I believe you are cutting too deep and cutting into the backing paper. Reset your blade length as per MZ SKEETER'S instructions and reduce your pressure settings. You should barely be making an indentation on the backing paper with your blade.
  2. 3 points
    I have read the recommendation to leave the plotter with the pressure rollers up - 99 percent of the time for the past 10-11 years mine has been left down and vinyl loaded. I don't follow some directions well I guess
  3. 2 points
    Call Support? Now why would I want to do a thing like that? Nooooo! That's entirely too easy. I would much rather crack a beer, have a seat, and bother the REAL people! Just wanted to update anyone following. I managed to get this rig running, finally. And I gotta tell ya... It helps so much TO INSTALL THE CORRECT CUTTER! That entire time... I had SC2 selected, NOT the Titan 2. After making the correct choice, the bells & whistles came alive. It was a Hallmark moment. No kidding. If any of you could have seen my behavior, prior to choosing wisely, you'd have grabbed popcorn & a fountain drink. Yeah... it was sad. Anyway... After a few test cuts, I noticed that the offset was too low (rounded, incomplete cuts). Of course, I headed straight for the calibration thingy. That's where I'm stuck now. That's where you fine peoples come in. I got to the part where the design shows up on the sign blank. Pretty sure it's a grid, with #'s & letters. Well, I hit CUT IT NOW. It starts cutting... then stops... and just sits there. Your thoughts?
  4. 2 points
    You should be peeling the wax paper backing off the decal. it makes a huge difference. Lay decal tape down, peel the backing off. No mention which vinyl or tape you are using,
  5. 2 points
    I refer you back to post 5 in this thread from sunday . . . .
  6. 2 points
    No problems with a desktop with 8 cores and 64gb ram either
  7. 2 points
    First things first --- identify those fonts (2 different ones). Do not ever vectorize text. Horrible results. Ask them for a higher-resolution copy, maybe if you're lucky get an .eps version!!!
  8. 2 points
    Hats are fickle. I mostly use my "kids" platen as I have stated before which is called the Allstar now. It's only 2-3/4" tall so the designs have to be no more than about 2-1/2" and I try to maintain more like 2" to 2-1/4" just for easier placement. The foam hats look like they have room for taller platen. The standard platen is 3-1/2" and that seems to be just a little too tall to allow the crown to settle down on most of the hats I sell or at least the smaller one is a LOT easier to get them to lay flat. The extra platens are pretty pricey and I think you have to go directly to the stahls website to get them. AND they aren't cheap. For me the secret is the smaller designs and choosing hats that fit my press better (and steering my customers to those styles of hat). Never tried a pillow on there and I don't see how it would be very productive to try and get it all stuffed in there and settled down. I just pre press them and then vigorously stretch the hat so it lays as flat as I can get it to the lower platen. Some edges tend to roll off and as long as your design doesn't lay over the edges that won't hurt anything. Having the print loaded hold down is really nice and I would hate to try and get a consistent job without it.
  9. 2 points
    I defer all hat questions to goose or those that do lots more than I ever did - I sold my hat press years ago. Juice wasn't worth the squeezing in my area
  10. 2 points
    I am not sure what takes the sublimation ink off a platen - you can try the easy off or even some rubbing alcohol first - if hotronix the platen is probably covered in a coating anyways but this is how we learn, there has to be a couple of missteps in the process. we all do it and continue to make mistakes even years later. forgetting to mirror htv will be the one that returns for years
  11. 2 points
    always, always use butcher paper or similar protective paper over the project. You are correct that the ink in gas form attached to your platen and causing that red ghosting. cheap roll of butcher paper (uncoated) from sams, costco etc last a LONG time and saves your press
  12. 2 points
    For the sublimation work I would make the print so that there was enough open area on each side and probably above the crown that the edges of the paper won't create a crease and the tape can be applied so it isn't even under the heat. Just a longer strip if that makes sense. It will waste a little sublimation paper but in that scenario that is what I would do. I never tried to sublimate a hat but other than the problem you are finding the sub job looks awesome. One thing I do on most of my hats is as soon as I put a pre-press to it for a few seconds I then lift the heat and work the hat to stretch it a little and make it conform to the platen a little better so it doesn't get the creases. I have never pressed on a foamy so they may not conform but most regular structured hats will.
  13. 2 points
    In my experience, if the cuts are too deep into the backing paper, the vinyl decals get 'stuck' (sorta fused onto the backing layer). However, you say this is not happening, so there's something else going on here.
  14. 2 points
    a free version that is very close is OPTIDiannaScriptBoldAgency (Bold *Oblique)
  15. 2 points
    Now with all that said I believe it is a white over purple Carla Pro (Regular *Oblique)
  16. 2 points
    That's an interesting question. When I had my P-Cut budget cutter it said to never leave the rollers up. When I got my High end cutter it said to never leave the rollers down. LOL. I just do what the cutter manual says. The reason the cheap cutter said to always lower them was to keep from compressing the springs for long periods and weakening them. The reason the high end machine says leave them up is because it will create flat spots on the pinch rollers and lead to tracking inaccuracy. Maybe the higher end machine has better quality springs, I have never had to replace the pinch rollers and I've now had this thing for 6 years. I try to keep my vinyl inside a plastic liner so I tend to remove it and store it. If it's some HTV that I am using pretty often I may leave it on the machine but not under the rollers. Each to his own.
  17. 1 point
    To add to this. When you click the Origin button, that is where your vinyl cutter starts to measure your design. When you click the ORIGIN button. Your cutter shows X 0 Y 0. That is the starting point. You should place your blade/ carriage head at the right lower corner of the vinyl. Click ORIGIN. That is when your cutter starts measuring the design that you send to to your vinyl cutter. ( The cutter may not start cutting there at that point. Most vinyl cutters start cutting at the point where the design was created. The cutter may advance on to the vinyl, but it will come back and finish the entire design. I make very large decals and my cutter may advance onto the vinyl 4 ft, before it starts cutting, but it will come back to the front of the vinyl and finish the whole design.) Make sure you have chosen the correct width and length orientation in your cutter software, so the vinyl cutter does not cut off of the vinyl or is too big for the vinyl. No reason to use WYSIWYG. You push the ORIGIN button before you send your design to the vinyl cutter.
  18. 1 point
    Hey guys so my hotronix hat press came in and I was extremely happy up until I pressed my first hat. It was a foam hat and I did exactly what I was reading. (This was for sublimation) I placed my print lined it up and threw heat tape on it with no Teflon (which another bad idea) I don’t know why they tell you not to use it but some ink got on my heat platen and you’ll see it on my white hat below. Craft paper should probably have been used. but anyway so now the press completes and it has markings from the heat tape and a box around the print from the paper. I figured I needed more of a firm base so I didn’t get bent out of shape I ordered Teflon pillows and still getting creases in the hats I tried different pressures but did stay around the area pressure you should be at when applying subs and or vinyl. If anyone has any feedback I’d appreciate the help. I will attach some photos and maybe just let me know what you think. The red hat creased in the middle and the gray and white foam hats I’m sure you’ll see the marks. (Gray hat done with no pillow) everything else had the pillow. I looked for a firm heat safe foam but can’t seem to find anything safe for heat up to 400 degrees. One hat came out perfect and I think cause it’s a different style hat.
  19. 1 point
    It BECOMES easy. In a year or two you will look back and wonder why it seemed so complicated. I'm an Adobe Illustrator guy and when I first started learning the program I thought I would never figure it out. Now it's second nature and I use it for all kinds of other things too. I am a construction manager by trade (vinyl and shirts is a side thing) and I do technical drawings and make annotations on pdf drawings and make cool presentations for my kids for school or nice personalized cards for birthdays etc... Enjoy the journey.
  20. 1 point
    Oracal 651 is known to be a little problematic from time to time in this one regard. It seems to have a good hold on the carrier. The upside is that that hold is also what helps it weed good for a calendared vinyl. The best cure I have found is just before install run it over a sharp edged table app tape side down so that the sharp angle on the table or bench will help break the vinyl loose from the carrier. Then lay the vinyl face down on the app tape side and peel the backing up and away from the vinyl. I have best luck if I can get a slight roll action going on the carrier sheet and it will sort of snap or pop up off the vinyl. Not all rolls of 651 fight as bad as some others. 751 and 951 do not have this issue. I also like to use R-Tape 4076RLA. It is slightly higher tack than 4075.
  21. 1 point
    Yeah neither of the pics are clear enough to get Find My Font to tell whats on there. The GP-17 looks like maybe Poster Bodini italic or similar. The other is anyones guess. You need a straight on pic in higher resolution to be able to let the program work well. Script fonts are more trouble because you need to be able to see where the letters meet and cut them apart so it can look for individual letters. Maybe get hold of the actually owners of that thing and see if they have something you can use for your replica.
  22. 1 point
    Just because paper tape doesn't look professional, it doesn't mean that it is not the right choice for the job. . I have always used paper tape. Most professional people do.
  23. 1 point
    White is my nemesis. No matter what brand I try it takes more pressure and just doesn't leave as nice a cut as the other colors. I've noticed I can cut a 24" x 60" red or black 3M reflective in two passes and it's a nice clean edge. Cut the same design in white reflective and there is so much drag that the 1st and 2nd cut don't always line up...frustrating. As for the Greenstar, I bought a bunch with my cutter for practice. Didn't care how much I wasted or gave away at the price. It was a great learning experience, because once I got good at cutting and weeding it I switched to 651 and it was night and day different. The 651 cuts, weeds and lays so much nicer! Can't imagine how much time and headache I would have saved myself if I'd just started with 651 and a CleanCut blade....but think of all the lessons I wouldn't have learned.
  24. 1 point
    Make you wish you had a catch basket when it unwinds to whole roll on the floor and static loads it up with all the dust and crumbs you should have swept up yesterday... Ask me how I know.
  25. 1 point
    Temperature is a factor, yes. Also, what is the surface like? Make sure it's clean (use isopropyl alcohol).