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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/15/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Jet aircraft are quieter than MH's. lol
  2. 3 points
    It wasn't just you, it had expired, I have just updated the link in the other thread, and I'll link it again here in case anyone else finds this thread. Here is the link to the newest version of Sure Cuts A Lot 4 Pro for Mac.
  3. 3 points
    We try Though, I do encourage you to become a member. Then your post will go up immediately. Not to mention that it's totally free, and we don't run ads, or push any hidden agendas, products or services.
  4. 3 points
    On 10/07, Apple released their new version of Mac OS, Catalina, which now requires all programs to be written as 64bit applications and not have any dependencies on 32 bit libraries or resources. At the time of release, neither Sure Cuts a Lot 3 Pro nor Sure Cuts a Lot 4 Pro are 64bit applications and as a result have been rendered incompatible with the new OS. Since that point, however, Sure Cuts a Lot 4 Pro has received a 64 bit update. That said, please be aware that there might be a few hiccups using this upgraded version as the developer works to assure it is fully complaint with the new OS' standards. Thank you for reporting this issue to us, we have noticed there may be trend with the new 64bit version of Sure Cuts A Lot 4 Pro. In our testing, the blade offset appears to be off like the image above, and changing the blade offset does not resolve the issue. We are in touch with the developer to see if this issue can be patched. In the meantime, if the the need for a software is dire, you can upgrade your copy of SCAL4Pro to SCAL5Pro for $60, as it is currently on sale. We have not encountered these issues on SCAL5Pro, and you can find a link to that upgrade here on USCutter.com. Please let us know if anyone is encountering other issues with these newly released builds, and I'll follow-up here when a new version is released.
  5. 2 points
    If you are ordering some vinyl get a yard of 751 or even 951 and try it. That stuff is super smooth and might be easier to weed. I usually use high end cast vinyl when I do teeny tiny. 1/8" aren't much fun on any cutter let alone a budget model.
  6. 2 points
    I do love the Port and Company.
  7. 2 points
    As a side note, if you have your other cutters blade depth at a credit card thickness, you will want to fix them with my instructions, that is way too much blade exposed. You should barely see and feel the blade tip, You only cut with the very tip of the blade. And start your blade offset at around 0.25mm and work in small changes to get the offset correct.
  8. 2 points
    I use a 30" cutter and I would never want one any wider....I have a 30" 8ft table and it works perfect for masking. I only cut vinyl. A lot of my jobs are pretty detailed and the Graphtec does a great job for that.
  9. 2 points
    teeny-tiny lettering is best done with a 60* blade. Get yourself a Clean Cut Blade, I promise you won't be sorry - and it will last a really long time (with proper use and maintenance). I know you said that you fiddled with the speed an pressure, but something that small, make sure you slow the cut speed down. I'm not sure how much you slowed it down, but when I had to cut really small and/or intricate stuff on my LaserPoint (which is also a stepper motor), I would slow the machine down to 20 (when I normally cut at 60+). patience is hard to come by, but is required to try and dial your machine in for certain jobs. when you do get it dialed in, make sure you write down the settings as a reference for the next time. good luck, keep us updated.
  10. 2 points
    We are still waiting for the new version to be published on Craftedge.com, but we have just been provided a link you can use to download the newest version before it is added to the site. Here is the link to the newest version of Sure Cuts A Lot 4 Pro for Mac. That version should resolve any issues with the blade offset setting you have been having, but let us know if you encounter any new issues, and we'll pass them along.
  11. 2 points
    Thanks for your interest in the SC2, and for using the Forum! 6mm is a lot, and the thickest I found for acetate sheets on google was 3 mil, so I'm operating under the assumption that you mean 6 mil. I wouldn't recommend the SC2 for cutting acetate. It's one of our value hobby cutters that are really more geared to cutting vinyl and easier stuff like that. It's possible that it may work with some fiddling, but we're not confident enough to recommend or support using an SC2 for that purpose. For cutting acetate, we would recommend one of the Titan series cutters. Depending on how big you want the stencils to be, the Table Titan 1 can cut stencils up to 15" wide, and it's $549, which is only $100 more than the 28" SC2 at its base price. A carrier sheet would be a must in any case, though, but it looks like you already know that.
  12. 2 points
    If you fill in the white space, Whatfontis.com comes back with BenderSolid.
  13. 1 point
    Give it a try you aren't out much if you buy a small order to test. I recommend a heat press first though. You'll be surprised the difference just that makes. I do mostly cut vinyl on smaller volumes. Cut vinyl is so much more vibrant than printed transfers and lasts longer than about anything. It requires a cutter, some design skills and of course a heat press but it's been a great revenue stream.
  14. 1 point
    worse thing that happens is you throw away an expensive printer on an experiment - guess it depends on how much you do - my sawgrass ricoh printer sits for months unused and never has problems so it is worth it to me to know it is always ready to rock and roll when called into action.
  15. 1 point
    No, the depth is NOT fine. 1/2 credit card is about 10x to much blade exposure. Follow Mz. Skeeter's instructions for setting blade depth. You only need about 0.003" of an inch of blade exposed.
  16. 1 point
    Thanks guys. That’s great info for me. I’m just getting going and I want to buy the right equipment so I can grow with it. I had wondered about what you said Dakota about breaking up larger jobs in segments. I have been leaning towards the graphtec. There seems to be a lot of instructional videos out there which I will need. I fairly new to this so there is a big learning curve ahead. So a user friendly machine is important. Hopefully I can turn it into some decent income. Thanks again guys you info is greatly appreciated.
  17. 1 point
    My experience with die cutting is in the cardboard packaging industry. Their idea of "high volume" is probably a bit different than the vinyl business. One job I had them running was 5'x3' sheets loaded every 5 seconds: load a sheet of cardboard, stamp, slide the parts off the press and load another sheet. At over 100 parts per sheet, one guy was putting out 2,000/hour. Rolls were handled in one of two methods: 1) Flat Die: an arm unrolled and slid the material under the die, retracted, die cycled, repeat. This was great because you could start with a small die with one pattern or a larger die with multiple patterns. They could also gang jobs to get the most out of each cycle. 2) Roller Die: a continual operation where the material roll is fed in the side of the press, the die is on a roll that spins at the same rate as material feed. This is super high volume and I only saw it used on smaller parts where die only had a few patterns on it. Not sure how this would work without stretching the vinyl. I tell you all this so you get a feel for their "volume". But it was their sample lab that held my interest and might give you some ideas. They used air-over hydraulic presses like in an auto shop, only with high-speed cylinders. Almost all of their steel rule dies were handcut plywood with the rules inserted no matter what the projected volume was. Handcutting is fine for cardboard, but vinyl would need more precision, like you'd get if you laser cut the wood. The leather industry makes a lot of their dies with laser cut wood and steel rules. They use toggle presses, air-over hydraulic, ball-screw presses and some other interesting machines. They are looking at tolerances a lot tighter and require quite a bit of force. They might be a good place to look. Depending on your tolerances and volume, you might be able to get going relatively inexpensively. There are folks on etsy making custom dies for leather and paper.
  18. 1 point
    I've gone 2 ways on my Windows computer - design computer that I built mainly for when I had the solvent printers are MSI mainboards with 8 core amd processor and the last one I got nuts and 64gb ram. Now on the cutter dedicated computer and my shipping computer I got ahold of a couple used HP USFF 8300 units with 8gb ram and put 250GB SSD in them - not a build but they are very energy efficient, quiet and fast for their purpose. my computers are on 24/7 all except on vacations. the cutter computer is not connected to the network in the house in anyway or the internet so files are transferred with a thumb drive - love newegg for my components
  19. 1 point
    Make sure you have your blade depth set correctly. This is how. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should just barely see and feel your blade tip out of the blade holder.
  20. 1 point
    OK new, this is gonna take a bit of effort on your part to assist in troubleshooting. Give us something to work with.
  21. 1 point
    When you "show print tiling"..... the box that shows your 'paper edges'.
  22. 1 point
    get the drivers from graphtec web site. mark-s
  23. 1 point
    I have this same problem, but it was because CorelDraw wasn't shut properly. Try this: Close both Corel and Cutting Master, then go to the task manager (Ctrl-Shift-Del) and look in the Processes Tab and see if Corel isn't still running, if so, End Process of Corel. Then re-open Corel and Cutting Master and try again. This works for me.
  24. 1 point
    I think that you have to know the measurement of the real size vechicle first. I use Coraldraw X4 and what I did was take a picture of my own car and mark on the door a square, which I measured and took a note of the size. I then opened up Coraldraw and made a square which measured the same size as the one I made on my car. I then inported the picture of my car and placed the square that I drew (Which is a known size) and placed it over the picture of the car. Then enlarge the car picture so that the square that you drew is matching the one that was on the car for the first measurement. Therefore from now on if you ever placed a decal desgin on that picture you will see how it will look and you will know how big it is as coraldraw always shows both the size of the image/page that you are working on and also the size of the clipart. I hope that I have explaned myself ok to you but writing is not my strong point I would rather show someone how to do it. Hope it helps, Fred
  25. 1 point
    This link may help you a little http://forum.uscutter.com/index.php/topic,19808.msg155474.html#msg155474